Archive for September, 2009

ROAST BEEF

Roast Beef

I didn’t eat much roast beef growing up; the only place I ever really saw it was in sandwiches. In fact, my first encounter with this particular roast beef came about after a botched attempt at an Italian beef sandwich.  See, I have a thing for sandwiches.  I expect perfection: not too small, not too crusty, and each flavor component should burst with each bite. Unlike my reproduction of the BELT, my beef sando effort was doomed from the start. First I ruined the relish. Then I realized I wasn’t going to have nearly the jus required for an authentic, “wet” Chicago-style hoagie. Instead, I was left with a perfectly cooked,  medium-rare eye-round roast — there are worse problems, I know. Now Lauren begs me to make this “failure” every couple of weeks.

Employing a few slow-roasting techniques that I’ve picked up over the years as well some overnight salting, I’ve refined this recipe into a roast that yields superbly seasoned, tender and juicy meat.  Served alongside mashed potatoes with a horseradish cream sauce or steak sauce and you have a cheap dinner that definitely satisfies any serious beef cravings.

Read more

TURKISH STUFFED GRAPE LEAVES

Turkish Stuffed Grape Leaves

The stuffed grape leaf, oftentimes referred to as dolma, is an under appreciated member of the meze family.  In favor of the ubiquitous hummus and pita or cucumber and yogurt salad, stuffed grape leaves tend to get passed over.  In fact, one of my closest friends and my own mother find this Middle Eastern staple off-putting.  I, too, remember a time when I shied away from stuffed grape leaves based solely on the fact that the dish involved the use of a leaf. (Then again, I was 9-years-old; I’m not sure what their excuse is.)  Expecting a vegetal, grassy flavor, I was caught off-guard by the savory, sweet, and sour flavor packed inside of each tiny bundle.

Having made many different versions of stuffed grape leaves, no recipe renders more consistent and flavorful results than that of Claudia Roden’s in her spectacular cookbook, Arabesque: A Taste of Morocco, Turkey and Lebanon.  After making these from scratch you’ll find that the flavor of a homemade stuffed grape leaf is light-years away from those that come from a can.

Read more

NEW MEXICO GREEN CHILI WITH PORK

Green Chilie for Web

Having never been to New Mexico, I am by no means an expert on green chili. While I’ve made a Mexican version of chile verde in the past with the addition of tomatillos, this authentic New Mexico version relies exclusively on the smokey, complex flavor of roasted green chiles.

My sister, having visited the Southwest on several occasions, oftentimes regales me with stories “of the best tasting green chili on the planet” and boasts about the fact that you can get “roasted green chilies on anything.”  Judging by how fanatical the inhabitants of the state are about food in general and especially their famous green sauce, I have no doubt that I would fit right in.

Knowing how fascinated I am by the humble, yet satisfying cuisine of he Southwest, one of the first cookbooks my girlfriend ever purchased for me was Huntley Dent’s, The Feast of Santa Fe: Cooking of the American Southwest.  While the picadillo recipe has already become one of our all-time favorite weeknight meals, after preparing this authentic green chili, we just might have discovered our new, slow-cooked Sunday sauce.  If the sound or look of this dish doesn’t get you excited, throw some green chilies in the oven to roast and their intoxicating aroma certainly will.

Read more

ROASTED TOMATO SOUP

Delicious, homemade tomato soup

I usually do the cooking in my house, but on a recent trip to the farmers market, my girlfriend stumbled upon a vendor selling what looked to be the last of this season’s tomatoes and was instantly inspired to make this soup. A little overripe, she decided that the still beautiful specimens would taste especially good after roasting in the oven to concentrate their flavor.  Now, I myself am not the biggest tomato soup fan, but I was blown away at how delicious and flavorful the end product became. Somewhere between a tomato bisque and an earthy, slow-cooked tomato sauce, this soup had me sopping up the leftovers from the pot with a piece of toasted sourdough. Perfectly seasoned and especially comforting on a foggy San Francisco evening, my place in the kitchen might be in jeopardy if my girlfriend continues to turn out such satisfying fare.

Read more

B.E.L.T. SANDWICH

BELT Sandwich

In elementary school, showing up to the lunch table with an egg salad sandwich was almost certain social suicide. This was unfortunate for someone like myself who simply loved the stuff.  Along with tuna sandwiches (which somehow brought about an even more violent reaction in my peers), egg salad sandwiches were unfortunately an after school snack staple.

It wasn’t until I was in college, going to school at the University of California at Santa Cruz, that my girlfriend turned me on to  a version of egg salad that even picky grade schoolers would have difficult time hating. Known as the BELT at Zoccoli’s Delicatessen on Pacific Avenue, this simple, yet delicious sandwich marries the classic bacon, lettuce and tomato version with the creamy, richness of egg salad on toasted wheat bread. 

Read more