If you celebrate Cinco de Mayo the way folks around here do, you’re going to need some serious grub to soak up the booze. The following recipes will not only satisfy any Mexican cravings, they’ll also lay down a base coat before your night gets going. Best of all? They can pretty much all be scaled up to feed a crowd. So enjoy responsibly and leave other Cinco de Mayo menu ideas in the comments.

TACOS, TOSTADAS, APPETIZERS

Tacos de Barbacoa

Chile-Braised Pork Tacos

Tacos de Cochinita Pibil

Red Chile Beef Tostadas

Taquitos

SALSAS & DIPS

Avocado-Tomatillo Salsa

Guacamole

Habanero Hot Sauce

Chipotle Bean Dip

Crema Mexicana

ON THE SIDE

Smoky Chipotle Black Beans

NICE & REFRESHING

Agua de Horchata

Cinco de Mayo is around the corner, and there are few hors d’œuvre in the Mexican repertoire better suited for munching on with a nice cold cerveza or margarita in hand than a crunchy, rolled taquito.  If the only kind of taquito you’re familiar with comes in a box from the frozen food aisle, then you’re in for a serious treat.  These are the real deal.  No microwaves, no ovens and no mystery meat here;  just the ear shattering crunch and savory interior of a freshly fried, homemade beef taquito.

Truth be told, I happily ate my healthy share of frozen taquitos for years. In fact, growing up I didn’t know many households that didn’t have a case buried somewhere in their freezer for snack emergencies. Throw them on plate, pop them in the microwave for a minute or so and go to town.  Let’s face it: they’re quick, convenient and the perfect vessel for your favorite condiment.  As a kid, I’d go as far as to dip mine in ketchup! It wasn’t until I decided to try a homemade version that I realized what this Mexican fingerfood could be. Where the frozen lack any serious depth of flavor and always end up being somewhere between chewy and soggy on the texture scale, the homemade is a knockout crispy treat.

These taquitos are the perfect way to use up leftover barbacoa.  In fact, I’ll even make an entire batch for the sole purpose of rolling up a few dozen of these bad boys.  If you really like them (which you will), go ahead and make a double batch and stash them in your freezer for the ultimate late night snack.  Like the kind from the box, but oh-so-much better.

TAQUITOS

Finding good, small, yellow corn tortillas is the first step in making a killer taquito at home.  In my experience, flour and/or white corn tortillas just don’t render the same results.  In order to make the tortillas pliable enough to roll into tight, cigar-like taquitos, it’s necessary to first blanch them in hot oil for a few seconds to make them pliable.  Simply steaming or warming the tortillas in a pan will not work in this instance as they are likely to crack or break during the rolling stage.  As always, I recommend getting a friend or family member involved in this process as an assembly line will pull this recipe together much more quickly than going it alone.  After the taquitos have been rolled, you can either fry them straight away using toothpicks to secure their shape or freeze them seam-side down on a parchment-line baking sheet.  Whatever you do, make sure they are tightly rolled and securely sealed to avoid unfurling in the hot oil.  I’ve gone with barbacoa beef here, but you could just as easily use leftover chile-braised pork, or pulled chicken as well.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 pounds leftover barbacoa beef, shredded
• 16-20 small yellow corn tortillas, no larger than 5-inches in diameter
• Oil for frying
• Hot Sauce, salsa and/or guacamole for dipping

METHOD:

1. Preheat oven to 200° F.  Pour oil into a heavy medium pot until it reaches a depth of 2-inches.  Heat oil over medium heat until it reaches 350° F on a candy thermometer.
2. Working one at a time, quickly dip a tortilla into the hot oil for a few seconds until completely submerged – you are not looking to crisp or cook the tortilla at this point, but rather, make it pliable.  Remove the tortilla using tongs and drain it on several layers of paper towel in order to absorb the excess oil.  Repeat this same dipping/draining procedure with the remaining tortillas.
3. To fill and roll the taquitos, place one of the pliable tortillas on a clean work surface and spoon on 2 large tablespoons or about 1.5-ounces of the shredded beef.  Using your fingers, pinch/shape the beef into a long, sausage-like row just under the center line of the tortilla.  Fold the bottom half of the tortilla up, over and around the filling, pulling snugly on the beef and rolling until you have created a tight cigar-like shape.  Rest the rolled taquito seam-side down on a sheet pan covered with parchment paper and repeat with the remaining tortillas and beef.  At this point you can freeze the taquitos for later frying or you can proceed to fry them straight away. If you plan to fry the taquitos directly after rolling, secure each seam with a carefully threaded toothpick to prevent them from unrolling in the hot oil.
4. Working in batches, fry the the taquitos until they are golden brown and and crispy throughout, about 5-6 minutes.  Transfer the cooked taquitos to a wire rack set over a paper towel-lined baking sheet and keep them warm in the oven. Repeat frying procedure with the remaining wings.
5. Place the hot taquitos on a large platter or stack them in a pyramid and serve along with your favorite Mexican salsa, hot sauce, sour cream or guacamole.

Makes 16-20 taquitos

If you are looking for a jalapeño popper that looks like this, then sadly, this recipe is not for you.  If, however, you are a popper purist looking for the authentic, crispy-fried variety, then you have come to the right place.

I’ve been looking for a good jalapeño popper recipe for some time now, and, after several failed attempts to find anything I could truly be proud of, I’ve finally cobbled together a version that lives up to the high bar set by frozen versions sold in bars around the country.  I tried everything: versions with fresh jalapeños, versions with cream cheese, fine breadcrumbs and egg batters.  These same iterations, were either raw, greasy or simply exploded in the frying oil. My winning version utilizes a combination of quality pickled jalapenos, a combo of cheddar and jack cheese, hot sauce and a buttermilk/panko batter.  Served alongside some buttermilk dip, and you have a appetizer that has few equals in the fabulous world of fried food.

JALAPEÑO POPPERS

Making poppers from scratch can be a bit of a time consuming process.  See if you can enlist the help of a friend to get a popper assembly line going.  The execution is quite simple: simply seed and devein the chiles, stuff them with shredded cheese, batter, freeze and fry.   When it comes to packing the jalapenos with cheese, it’s okay if they are not completely sealed.  They should still have a crispy, well-sealed crust after frying due to the double dipping procedure.  Look for the best quality canned jalapeños you can find.  I like El Mexicano or La Morena brands for this type of application.  If you want to get a little more gourmet with it, feel free to add an herbed cream or goat cheese and stuff them with crumbled bacon.

INGREDIENTS:

• 12 pickled jalapeños, preferably with stems left intact
• 3 ounces coarsely grated Cheddar (1 cup)
• 3 ounces coarsely grated Monterey Jack (1 cup)
• 1 teaspoon hot sauce
• 1 cup buttermilk
• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 2 cups panko bread crumbs
• 2 teaspoons dried oregano
• Canola or vegetable oil for frying

METHOD:

1. Cut a lengthwise slit from stem to bottom of each chile. Make a crosswise incision at stem end, forming a T.
2. Pry open each chile as if it was a book to expose the ribs and seeds, then devein and seed using the tip of a paring knife to scrape the inside clean.
3. Stir together cheeses, hot sauce, 1/4 teaspoon pepper, and 3/4 teaspoon salt.
4. Fill/pack the chiles with cheese mixture, pressing seams closed after filling, so that cheese is compacted and chile retains its shape.
5. Stir together bread crumbs, oregano, and 1/4 teaspoon each of salt and pepper in another shallow bowl.
6. Pour the buttermilk into a high sided bowl or drinking glass.  Working one at a time, roll the chiles in flour until uniformly covered shaking off any excess. Dip the chiles in the buttermilk, letting excess drip off, then coat with  the bread crumbs. Repeat coating with buttermilk and panko to form a second layer.  Transfer to a parchment lined baking sheet and repeat with the remaining chiles.  Once all of the chiles have been coated, place the baking sheet in the freezer until frozen through.
7. Heat 2 inches oil to 325°F in a medium saucepan. Fry chiles in 3 batches, stirring occasionally, until golden brown all over, 5 to 6 minutes per batch. Transfer to several layers of paper towels to drain. Return oil to 325°F between batches.

Makes One Dozen Poppers

We’ve all had good spinach dip. A little sour cream, a little cheese, some thawed frozen spinach and you’re in business. It’s the type of party dish you throw out on a table with a few crackers, maybe some slices of toasted baguette, and it’s guaranteed to be gobbled up in a matter of minutes. You may be used to seeing it served cold or at room temperature on most occasions, but those of us who take our dips seriously know that there is nothing quite like a hot version.

Somewhere between a french onion dip and everybody’s favorite green side dish, creamed spinach, this warm rendition satisfies in ways a cold version simply cannot. Just think — all those wonderful, rich flavors that are usually muted by the frosty interior of your refrigerator come alive when warmed through in the oven. Creamy, gooey and indulgent, this spinach dip is guaranteed to become one of your new favorite appetizers. Serve it to guests or bring it to your next potluck, but whatever you do, beware: I’ve seen a small group of people easily polish this off, so it may be worth doubling if you’re serving it for a party.

HOT SPINACH DIP

Adapted from Martha Stewart

This recipe is awesome as a dip and would be just as delicious as a side. While the original version of the recipe calls for three dashes of Worcestershire sauce, each time I’ve made this I find myself using double that — same goes for the hot sauce, too. But that’s my own preference; feel free to play around with flavors. I would even recommend mixing in some freshly grated nutmeg and forgoing the topping of mozzarella, if you’re serving it as a side. I’ve tried this using both fresh and frozen spinach — and a combination of both! — and honestly, the difference isn’t noticeable enough in the finished product to deem one better than the other. Thus, the choice is yours. The frozen spinach is definitely a bit easier — you’ll just add it, completely drained of excess liquid, directly to the cream cheese sauce and then add in the mozzarella cheese.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 teaspoons olive oil, plus more for the baking dish
• 1 medium onion, finely diced
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 2 pounds spinach, cleaned, trimmed, and coarsely chopped, or 2 10-ounce packages frozen chopped spinach, thawed and thoroughly drained
• 1/4 cup stock or water
• 1/2 cup milk
• 6 ounces reduced-fat cream cheese
• Worcestershire sauce, to taste
• Hot sauce, to taste
• 1 cup grated mozzarella
• Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
• Baguette slices, breadsticks, or crackers, for serving

METHOD:

1. Preheat oven to 425 degrees. In a Dutch oven or large pot, heat oil over medium. Add onion and garlic; cook until lightly browned and softened, 5 to 8 minutes.
2. Add spinach in two additions adding a portion of the stock or water with each and cover with a lid. Let the first batch wilt before adding the next; cook until completely wilted, 5 to 8 minutes. Transfer to a colander; drain, pressing to release all excess liquid.
3. In the same pot, warm milk over high heat. Whisk in cream cheese until melted, about 3 minutes. Add spinach, Worcestershire sauce, hot sauce, and 1/2 cup mozzarella; stir to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Pour into a lightly oiled 1 1/2-quart shallow baking dish; sprinkle with remaining 1/2 cup mozzarella.
4. Bake until bubbly and golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Serve hot with accompaniments, as desired.

Makes 3 cups

Looking for good falafel in San Francisco can leave one feeling like Goldilocks.  In a town with so few options to choose from, compared to a city like New York, finding real, quality falafel around here can be hit or miss.  Oftentimes too dry, frequently too large and almost always too dense, my misadventures in the quest for the perfect fritter have lead me to create a recipe that produces perfectly light, moist and delicious falafel every time.  In Goldilocks’ words, these are just right.

Dehydrated chickpeas are soaked overnight and ground with onions, parsley and garlic then seasoned with aromatic spices before being fried to a rich, golden brown. Top with a drizzle of garlic and lemon spiked tahini sauce and you have a version that I’d bet rivals some of the best you’ve ever bought.

FALAFEL

I like to use a meat grinder set with the finest disk to process my garbanzo beans.  If you don’t have one yourself, don’t despair, as falafel made in the food processor will be equally delicious.  Whichever route you choose, make sure to season your mix well and taste it before frying — there is nothing worse than a bland falafel.  Another crucial aspect of producing tender, airy falafel comes from the rolling process.  No matter what you do, DO NOT press and compact the mixture into a tight ball.  Instead, take some of the mixture and apply just enough pressure to have it hold its shape.  It takes a bit of practice at first, but you will be rewarded with beautiful, light falafel in the end.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 lb dried chick peas (garbanzo beans), soaked in water overnight
• 2 red or Spanish onions, coarsely chopped
  
• 2 large garlic cloves, crushed
  
• 1/2 large bunch of parsley
• 2 teaspoons ground cumin
• 2 teaspoons ground coriander
• 2 teaspoons sesame seeds
  
• Kosher salt & cayenne pepper to taste
  
• Canola or vegetable oil for frying
  

METHOD:

1. Drain the chick peas from their soaking liquid and pass them, along with the onion, garlic, parsley, through the finest holes of a meat grinder. Alternatively, place the same ingredients into the bowl of food processor and pulse until the texture is that of a coarse, moist meal.
2. Add the cumin, coriander, sesame seeds, cayenne and salt to the ground mixture. Stir to distribute the spice and allow the mixture to rest for at least a 1/2 hour at room temperature.  Taste a small amount for seasoning and adjust accordingly.
3. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper.  With slightly moistened hands, take walnut-sized lumps (about 2 tablespoons) of the rested falafel mixture from the bowl and gently roll into flat, round shapes, about 1 1/2 inches in diameter.  Place the falafel on the lined sheet pan and repeat with the remaining mix.  Allow rolled falafel balls to rest at least another 15 minutes at room temperature before frying.
4. Pour oil into a 4-qt. Dutch oven to a depth of 2″ and heat over medium-high heat until a deep-fry thermometer registers 350˚. Working in batches, fry the falafel until they are a dark, rich brown color, about 4-5 minutes.  Remove from the oil and drain on paper towels.  Repeat with remaining falafel.
5. Serve the falafel warm or at room temperature along with tahini sauce for drizzling.

Makes about 2 dozen falafel

TAHINI SAUCE

Adapted from Claudia Roden’s A Book of Middle Eastern Food

INGREDIENTS:

• 1-3 cloves garlic, to taste
• Kosher salt, to taste
• Juice of 2 1/2 lemons, or more to taste
• 1/4 pint tahini paste
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
  

METHOD:

1. Crush the garlic with salt to for a paste. Mix it with a little of the lemon juice in a large bowl. Add the tahini paste and mix well.
2. Add the remaining lemon juice and enough cold water to achieve a thick, smooth cream, beating vigorously.
3. Season with salt and cumin; taste and add more lemon juice, garlic or salt until the flavor is fairly strong and tart. Add a few more drops water if too thick. It should be just pourable.

Another day, another classic Mediterranean/Middle-Eastern dip, this time Tzatziki, or Cacik as it’s known in Turkey. (It’s certainly not Irish, but at least I’ve got some green going on!)  Whatever you want to call it, this dip stands out as one of my all-time favorites.  Cool, thick Greek-style yogurt is combined with crisp, refreshing cucumbers and laced with pungent garlic and mint for a concoction that is as good on the humble pita as it is on spicy grilled meats.

Good tzatziki is all about texture.  Yes, balance of flavor is always important, but when it comes to this specific herb-inflected spread, I like mine thick and creamy. Here, liquid is the enemy so my version calls for not one, but two ‘purges’ of moisture (once for the yogurt and once for the cucumbers) in an effort to control the final consistency of the dish.  Now, you can go out and buy thick, Greek-style yogurt at the supermarket, but if you’ve been swept up in its recent trend then you’ve probably already noticed that their not exactly giving that stuff away.  That’s why I buy plain, whole-milk yogurt and drain away the excess whey overnight in the fridge — less money, more moisture control.

This stuff is so refreshing that I’m sure once you try it you’ll be making it for dolloping and dipping throughout the spring and summer months. Plus, once you get the technique for straining the yogurt down, you  can forgo the savory addition of garlic and cucumbers and try drizzling it with honey, stirring in fruit or topping it with granola for an exceptionally delicious breakfast or snack.

TZATZIKI

Making good tzatziki at home requires a bit of patience, but believe me when I tell you that the results are well worth the wait.  Start the recipe the day ahead of when you plan on serving it in order for the whey to drain away from the yogurt. For best results, I’ll sometimes do this by hanging the yogurt from wooden spoon suspended over a deep bowl in the fridge. If you don’t have the refrigerator real estate for this type of setup, you can always drain the yogurt in a cheesecloth lined sieve instead.  If you decide to go the sieve route, stir the yogurt occasionally over the 24 hour period to facilitate the draining of the whey.  Be sure to save this liquid as you might want to add some back in to adjust the consistency of your dip before service.  In another effort to control the water content of the dish, I also have you salt the cucumbers in order to remove further moisture that might dilute the dip.  Once prepared, tzatziki will continue to develop flavor as it sits and is best served just slightly chilled — not straight from the fridge.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 24-ounce container of plain, whole milk yogurt
• 3-4 small Persian cucumbers or about 1 seeded English cucumber.
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint or dill leaves
• 1-2 cloves garlic, finely minced or smashed in a mortar and pestle
• Lemon juice, to taste
• Kosher salt

METHOD:

1. Line a medium bowl with several layers of cheesecloth pour in the contents of the yogurt container. Gather the loose ends of the cheesecloth and fasten them tightly with a rubber band or a length of butcher string.   Suspend the yogurt over a deep bowl in your refrigerator overnight, allowing the liquid to drain away.
2. The following day, pour the strained, thick yogurt into a bowl and reserve some of the whey that has drained away.
3. Peel, dice or grate the cucumbers.  Sprinkle with salt and leave for 1/2 to 1 hour in a colander for the juices to drain.
4. Beat the yogurt in a serving bowl with the minced garlic and the mint or dill (or a combination of both) and fold in the cucumbers.  Season to taste with salt, taking into consideration the residual saltiness of the cucumbers.  Add lemon juice to taste and a splash or two of the reserved whey if the dip is too thick for your tastes.

Makes about 2 cups

Sure, St. Patrick’s Day is right around the corner, and while I could offer you a few variations on classic Irish dishes like corned beef and colcannon, something has me craving Middle Eastern food instead.  So, this week I’ll be posting some of my favorite recipes from Lebanon, Turkey and Israel, all culminating in a dish that will be able to take advantage of each flavorful offering in the group. How about a dip to start?

Like its cousin hummus, baba ganoush is now offered by a myriad of producers and can be found at almost any major grocery store.  While most of it is good, I’ve found that nothing quite compares with a batch of the homemade stuff.  An essential component of any good mezze platter or vegetarian plate at most restaurants, this eggplant dip is as healthy as it is flavorful. For those who’ve never tried it, imagine a smoky spread that is as at once creamy and light, tangy and sweet and as good with warm pita bread at is with crunchy crudite.

At its best, baba is always a contrast of flavors and textures, but the exact ratio of lemon juice to tahini, the consistency from rough chopped to food processor smooth, the addition of a lot or a little garlic, etc. is in the eye mouth of the beholder. And of course, there is no way quite as effective to ensure that a dish is made to your tastes than to make it yourself. So, while I’ve included a handful of measurements in the recipe, keep in mind that they are merely guidelines that can easily be adjusted to suit your own taste, and that technique is what’s most important in creating a outstanding eggplant dip.

BABA GANOUSH

Adapted from Claudia Roden’s, Arabesque a Taste of Morocco, Turkey, and Lebanon

If you have a grill or barbecue sitting in your backyard, this is a great time to take advantage of the smoky flavor that it can add to a dish.  If you don’t feel like starting a fire just to grill some eggplants, char the eggplants under your ovens broiler set on high.  This step is crucial if you are going to attain the smoky flavor that makes baba ganoush so unique.  When your eggplants are cool enough to handle, slice them down the middle and scrape out the flesh with the point of a knife.  Lightly chopping/cutting the eggplant while it is draining in a sieve will not only allow you to remove some of the bitter juices from the flesh, but also control its texture.  If a rustic presentation is not what you are after, simply puree the eggplant in a food processor until the desired consistency is reached.  If you like an especially creamy baba ganosh, add the optional yogurt and whip it into the tahini/lemon mixture before adding the eggplant puree.  Even though you are removing a good amount of bitterness by eliminating the juices from the eggplant, I’ve found that adding a pinch or two of salt can really balance out the acidity of the lemon and counteract any residual bitterness  left in the flesh.  Finally, I like to garnish my baba with a sprinkle of smoked paprika for a nice contrast in color and to reinforce the smoky character of the spread.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 medium eggplants (about 1 1/2 pounds)
• 3 tablespoons tahini
• Juice of 2 lemons
• 2 garlic cloves, crushed
• 3/4 cup to 4/5 cup Greek-style yogurt
• Salt, to taste
• Sugar, to taste
• 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
• Smoked paprika, for garnish

METHOD:

1. Prick the eggplants in a few places with a pointed knife to prevent them from exploding.  Cook the eggplant over the flame of a charcoal barbecue or under the broiler until the skin is charred all over and they feel very soft when you press them.  Alternatively, you can place them on a foil-lined baking sheet and roast them in your oven set on its highest heat setting for about 45-55 until soft.
2. When cool enough to handle, peel and drop them into a strainer or colander with small holes.  Press out as much of the water and juices as possible.  Still in the colander, chop the flesh with a pointed knife, then mash it with a fork or wooden spoon, letting the juices escape through the holes.  Adding a tiny squeeze of lemon juice help to keep the puree looking pale and appetizing.
3. In a bowl, beat the tahini with the lemon juice (the tahini stiffens at first then softens), then beat in the yogurt if you are including it.  Add the mashed eggplant, garlic to taste, and a good pinch of salt.  Beat vigorously and taste to adjust flavoring.
4. Spread the puree onto a flat serving dish or bowl and garnish with a drizzle of olive oil, a sprinkling of parsley and a pinch of smoked paprika. For best flavor, serve at room temperature.

Makes about 2 cups

I absolutely loved eating pot stickers growing up.  In fact, no night of Chinese take-out was complete without them in my house.  And what’s not to like about them?  Crispy on one side, tender on the other and bursting with a flavorful, juicy pork and shrimp filling.  Yup, give me a bowl of soy or some sweet and sour dipping sauce and I was good.  Then…I went away to college and simply lost all interest in these delicious dumplings.

You see, there is a brand of frozen pot stickers on the market that seems to be stocked in every grocery store on the planet. It’s highly likey that you might have eaten them yourself at one point in time.  And why wouldn’t you have?  They aren’t half bad when you prepare them correctly.  But it was the constant consumption of these store-bought wonders by my roommates that really put me off them for a while.  Do you know what it’s like to come home from a long day of classes to a house steamed up with the funky stench of industrialized cabbage wontons?  Not good! Sure they were good the first couple of times, but after a while it’s just not the same as the genuine, handmade article.

So, smack-dab in the heart of Chinese New Year, I present to you a killer recipe from this month’s Fine Cooking Magazine for authentic, pork and shrimp jiao zi.  Simple enough to assemble and sheer gold sitting in your freezer, this recipe has single-handedly renewed my interest in these classic Chinese dumplings.  Loaded with a myriad of traditional Chinese ingredients like ginger, rice wine, napa cabbage, scallions and sesame oil, these pot stickers are leagues above your average supermarket variety and far better than the restaurant versions I’ve had in recent years. Serve them with the accompanying recipe for scallion-soy dipping sauce and you have a knockout appetizer.

POT STICKERS

Adapted from Thy Tran’s recipe in Fine Cooking Magazine

Outside of filling and shaping the dumplings, this recipe is pretty damn easy and well worth the effort considering how perfectly the finished dumplings freeze for future cooking.  If you have an Asian market in your town, go there and try to purchase coarsely ground, fatty pork for dumplings with superior juiciness and texture.  Thy’s original recipe calls for you to make your own wrappers and I am certain that such an endevor would be well worth the effort.  However, this recipe already takes a bit of time to put together, so do what I did and go grab yourself some pre-made, gyoza or pot sticker wrappers at the market.  Look for wrapper thin — you want your pot stickers to be delicate, not chewy.  If you decide you want to freeze some of the finished dumplings, place them on a cookie sheet in an even layer and freeze them overnight.  When you want to cook them again, simply take them out and proceed with the same cooking method, adding 3-4 minutes onto the total cooking time.  I didn’t believe it myself, but the come out perfectly. Trust me.

INGREDIENTS:

METHOD:

1. Make the Filling: In a medium bowl, toss the cabbage with 2 teaspoons salt and set aside for 30 minutes to shed moisture. Wring out in a clean kitchen towel to extract as much liquid as possible.
2. In a large bowl, combine the cabbage with the pork, shrimp, scallions, garlic, Shaoxing, ginger, soy sauce, sesame oil, sugar, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Stir until well mixed. Refrigerate for at least 20 minutes.
3. Fill the Dumplings: Spoon 1 to 2 teaspoons of the filling onto a dough wrapper, fold it in half, and make your first pinch at the center of the curved edge and then pleat toward the center on both sides to create a rounded belly. This wider shape allows the dumplings to sit upright in the pan and form a flat surface for browning.
4. Repeat with the remaining wrappers and filling. As you work, arrange the filled dumplings in a single layer without touching on large plates, so they don’t stick together.
5. Pan-Fry the Dumplings: Heat 2 Tbs. vegetable oil in a heavy-duty 10- or 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Working quickly and in batches if necessary (adding more oil for the second batch if needed), arrange the dumplings belly side down in concentric circles starting from the outer edge. Cook until golden brown on the bottom, 1 to 2 minutes.
6. Pour in about 1/2 cup water or enough to come about a third of the way up the sides of the dumplings, bring to a boil, cover, and cook until all of the water has been absorbed, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove the lid, reduce the heat to medium, and continue cooking just until the dumplings are dry and crisp on the bottom, 1 to 2 minutes. Loosen the dumplings from the pan with a spatula.
7. Invert the pan over a plate to flip the dumplings, browned side up, onto the plate (or transfer with a spatula). Serve immediately with your choice of dipping sauce.

Makes 36 Dumplings

SCALLION-SOY DIPPING SAUCE

INGREDIENTS:

• 3 tablespoon soy sauce
• 1 tablespoon rice vinegar
• 1 teaspoon granulated sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon hot chile oil or toasted Asian sesame oil
• 1 small scallion, thinly sliced

METHOD:

1. In a small bowl, combine the soy sauce, vinegar, and sugar. Stir until the sugar is completely dissolved and then stir in the oil and scallion.

I know what you’re thinking — two recipes for chicken wings in three posts?  It might be a bit excessive, but the fact of the matter is, I can’t get enough of them. I love wings, my friends love wings and if the rising price of chicken wings counts for anything, so does the rest of America.  So, for all my readers who might not might not be into the fish sauce or sweet chili-glazed variety, I’m here to offer you a recipe and proper technique for the classic New York-style buffalo wing.

I grew up eating hot wings from a local Bay Area chain called Original Buffalo Wings.  On the nights we were lucky enough to call them dinner, my Mom would order up a “double dozen” along with a bag of fresh fried potato chips and an extra side of blue cheese dip for the crispy (albeit anemic) celery sticks.  Bathed in a velvety, vinegary coating of hot sauce, the wings always remained crisp — a textual enigma which I long considered a well-kept secret of the buffalo wing trade.  Having made these a handful of times now, I can tell you that there are actually few secrets to a great wing.  Just get a hold of some fresh, meaty chicken wings, dry them well to promote even browning, fry them in small batches, toss them with Frank’s RedHot sauce and a bit of margarine (gasp!) and you’ll be left with the the quintessential, finger-lickin’ good buffalo wing.

BUFFALO WINGS

Getting the wings as dry as possible before frying them is a crucial step in achieving a crispy, golden brown wing.  As always, fry the wings in batches that will not overwhelm the pot and drop your oil temperature too dramatically.  In fact, I’ll sometimes allow the oil to exceed 350° in anticipation of drop of 20-30 degrees.  This recipe calls for the use of margarine, an ingredient that I rarely, if ever, use in my cooking.  I’ve tried making them with butter and they simply just don’t turn out the same.  If you are dead-set against using margarine, consider using clarified butter — the absence of the milk solids and water should allow the hot sauce to easily emulsify.  When you are ready to toss the wings with the buffalo sauce, make sure to give it another good whisk as it tends to separate a bit while it sits.  Any hot sauce will do in this recipe, but the wings you’ve eaten in restaurants were probably made using Frank’s.  If you like your wings really hot, simply adjust the ratio of hot sauce to margarine.

INGREDIENTS:

• Peanut, canola, grapeseed or vegetable oil for Frying
• 2 pounds chicken wings (about 20), separated at the joint, wingtips removed
• 6 tablespoons margarine
• 1/2 cup Frank’s RedHot Original Cayenne Pepper Sauce (plus more to taste)
• 3 ribs of celery, sliced into 3-inch lengths
• 3/4 cup blue cheese dip (recipe follows)

METHOD:

1. Preheat oven to 200° F.  Pour oil into a heavy medium pot until it reaches a depth of 2-inches.  Heat oil over medium heat until it reaches 350° F on a candy thermometer.
2. Meanwhile, dry the wings thoroughly on paper towels to remove all residual moisture.  Working in batches, fry the wings until they are golden brown and cooked through, about 10 minutes.  Be sure to stir the wings occasionally to prevent them from sticking together.  Transfer the cooked wings to a wire rack set over a paper towel-lined baking sheet and keep them warm in the oven. Repeat frying procedure with the remaining wings.
3. Make the sauce by melting the margarine in a small saucepan over medium heat.  Add the hot sauce and whisk to combine.
4. When you are ready to serve, transfer the chicken wings to a large bowl, pour over the hot sauce mixture and toss until they are thoroughly coated.  Serve immediately with celery stick and blue cheese dip.

Makes 20 Wings

BLUE CHEESE DIP

You can think of this dip as a slightly thicker version of blue cheese dressing.  If you don’t have chives, use green onions.  Feel free to adjust the amount of sour cream and heavy cream to reach a consistency that fits your own personal taste.  If you have the time, make this earlier in the day and place it in the refrigerator to allow the flavors to come together.  Serve cold or at room temperature.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1/4 pound Danish blue cheese, crumbled
• 3 tablespoons heavy cream
• 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
• 1/4 – 1/3 cup sour cream
• 1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
• Hot sauce to taste
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 2 tablespoons minced chives

METHOD:

1. Combine the blue cheese, heavy cream and lemon juice in a small bowl.
2. Add sour cream 1 tablespoon at a time, whisking to combine.
3. Add in the Worcestershire and hot sauce and season to taste with salt and pepper.
4. Fold in minced chives and let stand at least 5 minutes before serving.

This recipe represents yet another entry into the Game Day Food Hall of Fame.  I guess I have football on the brain, or I just can’t get enough of the typical game day offerings – savory, salty homemade junk food. I made these a few years ago for a Super Bowl party and they were gone within minutes.  I too loved the wings, but felt like something was missing.  I had followed the instructions of the original recipe and baked the wings in a hot oven.  They had great flavor due to an overnight soak in cilantro, soy, ginger, garlic and red chili, but I quickly realized that the texture of a baked wing (i.e. flabby chicken skin) was not my favorite.  I needed the crispy-crunch of well-rendered chicken skin — something I was never going to get unless I fried them.  So, using a few tricks I picked up from another wing recipe, I tossed the chicken in a bit of rice flour before frying them to a delicious golden brown.  After a quick toss in the oh-so sticky, sweet chili-glaze I was left with what I consider to be one of the best finger foods around.

If you’re planning on doing any Super Bowl entertaining of your own or you just love a good wing, think about giving this recipe a try.  The asian flavor profile is a welcome alternative to the usual hot sauce/butter laden buffalo wing.  If you’re looking for a special main course, serve these guys atop a bowl of sticky rice to sop up all of that sweet-chili glaze.

SWEET CHILI-GLAZED CHICKEN WINGS

Adapted from Bon Appétit Magazine, July 1997

If you’re adverse to the idea of frying, these wings can be baked on a sheet pan in a 400° for about 20 minutes until they are golden brown.  If you decide to fry them, dredging the wings in rice flour before doing so will ensure the formation of an extra crispy crust.  If you’re having a hard time finding rice flour, you can omit this step and proceed to frying the wings after you’ve thoroughly dried them with paper towels.  Making the glaze is a simple affair, just be careful not to over-reduce the sauce to the point of a caramel. You will know the glaze is ready when it coats the back of a spoon. The resulting glaze is especially sweet, so if you want a bit more of a sour bite to your wings, don’t be afraid to scale back the amount of sugar that is called for here.  Looking for a bit more heat? Add more chili-garlic sauce.  Less heat? Just reduce the crushed red pepper called for in the dish.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 pounds chicken wings
• 1/4 cup peanut oil
• 3 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro
• 3 tablespoons soy sauce
• 2 1/2 tablesp00ns minced garlic
• 2 tablespoons minced ginger
• 1 teaspoon dried crushed red pepper flakes
• 1 cup rice flour
• Oil for deep frying (such as peanut oil, canola, grapeseed or vegetable)
• 1 cup rice vinegar
• 3/4 cup granulated sugar
• 1/2 cup water
• 1 tablespoon chili-garlic sauce
• 1/4 cup thinly sliced green onions

METHOD:

1. Cut each chicken wing in half at the joint and remove/discard wingtips.  Place the chicken in a large resealable plastic bag.
2. Mix oil, cilantro, soy sauce, 2 tablespoons garlic, ginger, and 1/2 teaspoon of the red pepper flakes in a bowl until well combined.  Pour the marinade into the plastic bag and turn to coat the chicken evenly.  Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or as long as overnight.  Toss the contents of the bag from time to time to ensure even distribution of the marinade.
3. Remove the chicken wings from the refrigerator at least 20 minutes before frying to allow them to come to room temperature.  Drain the chicken wings from the marinade and dry them thoroughly using paper towels.  Place the rice flour in a shallow plate and set aside.
4. Pour the oil into a large, heavy-bottomed pot to a depth of 2” and heat until a candy thermometer registers 350° F.  Preheat the oven to 200° F.
5. Meanwhile, while the oil is coming up to temperature, make the glaze.  Combine the rice vinegar, sugar, water, chili-garlic sauce along with the remaining 1/2 teaspoons red pepper flakes and 1/2 tablespoon of minced garlic in a medium saucepan.  Bring the mixture to a boil; reduce the heat and simmer until reduced to a thick, syrupy glaze, about 20 minutes.
6. When the oil has reached 350°, toss the chicken wings in the rice flour, patting off any excess.  Working in 2 batches, fry the wings, stirring occasionally to prevent them from sticking to one another, until each is golden brown, about 10-12 minutes total.  Transfer when done to a wire rack set over a sheet tray and keep warm in the oven until all of the wings are fried.  Repeat with remaining chicken wings.
7. Once all of the wings are fried, combine them with the glaze in a large bowl and toss to cover and coat them evenly.  Transfer the glazed wings to a serving platter and garnish with the sliced green onions.  Serve immediately.

Makes 4 appetizer servings