If you celebrate Cinco de Mayo the way folks around here do, you’re going to need some serious grub to soak up the booze. The following recipes will not only satisfy any Mexican cravings, they’ll also lay down a base coat before your night gets going. Best of all? They can pretty much all be scaled up to feed a crowd. So enjoy responsibly and leave other Cinco de Mayo menu ideas in the comments.

TACOS, TOSTADAS, APPETIZERS

Tacos de Barbacoa

Chile-Braised Pork Tacos

Tacos de Cochinita Pibil

Red Chile Beef Tostadas

Taquitos

SALSAS & DIPS

Avocado-Tomatillo Salsa

Guacamole

Habanero Hot Sauce

Chipotle Bean Dip

Crema Mexicana

ON THE SIDE

Smoky Chipotle Black Beans

NICE & REFRESHING

Agua de Horchata

Cinco de Mayo is around the corner, and there are few hors d’œuvre in the Mexican repertoire better suited for munching on with a nice cold cerveza or margarita in hand than a crunchy, rolled taquito.  If the only kind of taquito you’re familiar with comes in a box from the frozen food aisle, then you’re in for a serious treat.  These are the real deal.  No microwaves, no ovens and no mystery meat here;  just the ear shattering crunch and savory interior of a freshly fried, homemade beef taquito.

Truth be told, I happily ate my healthy share of frozen taquitos for years. In fact, growing up I didn’t know many households that didn’t have a case buried somewhere in their freezer for snack emergencies. Throw them on plate, pop them in the microwave for a minute or so and go to town.  Let’s face it: they’re quick, convenient and the perfect vessel for your favorite condiment.  As a kid, I’d go as far as to dip mine in ketchup! It wasn’t until I decided to try a homemade version that I realized what this Mexican fingerfood could be. Where the frozen lack any serious depth of flavor and always end up being somewhere between chewy and soggy on the texture scale, the homemade is a knockout crispy treat.

These taquitos are the perfect way to use up leftover barbacoa.  In fact, I’ll even make an entire batch for the sole purpose of rolling up a few dozen of these bad boys.  If you really like them (which you will), go ahead and make a double batch and stash them in your freezer for the ultimate late night snack.  Like the kind from the box, but oh-so-much better.

TAQUITOS

Finding good, small, yellow corn tortillas is the first step in making a killer taquito at home.  In my experience, flour and/or white corn tortillas just don’t render the same results.  In order to make the tortillas pliable enough to roll into tight, cigar-like taquitos, it’s necessary to first blanch them in hot oil for a few seconds to make them pliable.  Simply steaming or warming the tortillas in a pan will not work in this instance as they are likely to crack or break during the rolling stage.  As always, I recommend getting a friend or family member involved in this process as an assembly line will pull this recipe together much more quickly than going it alone.  After the taquitos have been rolled, you can either fry them straight away using toothpicks to secure their shape or freeze them seam-side down on a parchment-line baking sheet.  Whatever you do, make sure they are tightly rolled and securely sealed to avoid unfurling in the hot oil.  I’ve gone with barbacoa beef here, but you could just as easily use leftover chile-braised pork, or pulled chicken as well.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 pounds leftover barbacoa beef, shredded
• 16-20 small yellow corn tortillas, no larger than 5-inches in diameter
• Oil for frying
• Hot Sauce, salsa and/or guacamole for dipping

METHOD:

1. Preheat oven to 200° F.  Pour oil into a heavy medium pot until it reaches a depth of 2-inches.  Heat oil over medium heat until it reaches 350° F on a candy thermometer.
2. Working one at a time, quickly dip a tortilla into the hot oil for a few seconds until completely submerged – you are not looking to crisp or cook the tortilla at this point, but rather, make it pliable.  Remove the tortilla using tongs and drain it on several layers of paper towel in order to absorb the excess oil.  Repeat this same dipping/draining procedure with the remaining tortillas.
3. To fill and roll the taquitos, place one of the pliable tortillas on a clean work surface and spoon on 2 large tablespoons or about 1.5-ounces of the shredded beef.  Using your fingers, pinch/shape the beef into a long, sausage-like row just under the center line of the tortilla.  Fold the bottom half of the tortilla up, over and around the filling, pulling snugly on the beef and rolling until you have created a tight cigar-like shape.  Rest the rolled taquito seam-side down on a sheet pan covered with parchment paper and repeat with the remaining tortillas and beef.  At this point you can freeze the taquitos for later frying or you can proceed to fry them straight away. If you plan to fry the taquitos directly after rolling, secure each seam with a carefully threaded toothpick to prevent them from unrolling in the hot oil.
4. Working in batches, fry the the taquitos until they are golden brown and and crispy throughout, about 5-6 minutes.  Transfer the cooked taquitos to a wire rack set over a paper towel-lined baking sheet and keep them warm in the oven. Repeat frying procedure with the remaining wings.
5. Place the hot taquitos on a large platter or stack them in a pyramid and serve along with your favorite Mexican salsa, hot sauce, sour cream or guacamole.

Makes 16-20 taquitos

The real title of this post should be “Mom’s Meatloaf,” as this is the very same recipe I grew up eating as a child.  A perennial favorite in our household, few meatloaves deliver in the way this barbecue sauce-topped rendition does.  The epitome of comfort, my Mom would be the first to tell you that this dish is “hard to screw up.”  In fact, it’s the simplicity of this recipe that makes it a true standout in my mind.  Perfect for company, yet quick and easy enough for a weeknight meal, this tender and juicy meatloaf comes together in no time and feeds a crowd for next to nothing.  Covered with a sweet, tangy homemade barbecue sauce, this meatloaf is sure to please even the pickiest of eaters as few can resist it’s sticky, ketchup-like topping.  If you love meatloaf but can’t justify the saturated fat, substitute ground turkey for a version that is just as tasty and quite a bit healthier — you’ll barely notice the difference.  As good cold as it is served warm, this recipe also makes for a killer meatloaf sandwich.  So, in a world filled with so much bad meatloaf, do yourself a favor and go with a tried-and-true recipe that works.  Your family, friends and significant others will thank you.

CLASSIC MEATLOAF

The beauty of this recipe is in its simplicity.  I like to briefly saute the onion prior to adding it to the loaf mixture in an effort to bring out a bit of its sweet character and remove a bit of its rawness.  I use panko instead of traditional breadcrumbs as I find their addition creates a more tender, lighter textured final meatloaf.  The barbecue sauce in this recipe is what makes this version a true winner.  I’ve outlined the basic technique below, but feel free to add any of your favorite ingredients to this simple sauce.  It will still appear to be a bit thin when added to the top of the meatloaf prior to baking, but don’t worry; it will thicken substantially during the hour and a half bake time in the oven.  Once cooked, the meatloaf will have given up some of its juices.  This is normal.  Allow the meatloaf to rest, as this will ensure that it reabsorbs some of those precious, flavorful juices.  If you are inclined to do so, defat the accumulated juices and reduce them in a small saucepan over low heat until slightly thickened for a killer gravy to top your sliced meatloaf.  Finally, feel free to use a combination of beef, pork and veal or go all beef or turkey if you want.  Either way, it’ll still turn out solid.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 medium onion, finely minced
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
  
• 1 pound ground beef
  
• 1 pound ground pork
• 1 cup panko breadcrumbs
  
• 1 14-ounce can tomato puree, divided
  
• 2 large eggs, lightly beaten
• 4 teaspoons Kosher Salt
• 1 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 teaspoon dried thyme
• 1/3 cup chopped parsley
• 2 tablespoons mustard
• 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
  
• 2-3 tablespoons brown sugar
• 1/4 teaspoon chipotle pepper powder or BBQ seasoning
  

METHOD:

1. Preheat the oven to 350°
2. Heat the olive oil in a small skillet over medium heat until hot and sweat the onion, stirring occasionally until just translucent and no longer raw, about 5 minutes.  Transfer the onion to a plate and allow to cool.
3. In a large bowl, combine the beef, pork, breadcrumbs, cooled onions, half the tomato puree, eggs, salt, pepper, thyme and parsley.  Using clean hands, mix the ingredients thoroughly until well combined.  Lightly pack the mixture into a greased loaf pan and set aside while you prepare the barbecue sauce.
4. In a small saucepan, add the remaining tomato puree along with the mustard, cider vinegar, brown sugar, and chipotle powder.  Season the barbecue sauce to taste with salt and pepper and bring to a gentle simmer and allow to thicken slightly, about 5-8 minutes.  Remove the sauce from the heat and allow to cool a bit.
5. Pour the warm barbecue sauce on top of the prepared meatloaf and bake in the oven for 1 1/2 hours, or until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of the meatloaf registers 150°.  Remove the loaf from the oven and place it on a rack to rest for at least 15-20 minutes.  Once rested, pour off excess juices (setting aside for gravy if desired), remove the loaf from the pan and slice into 1-inch thick slices.  Serve at once.
   

Serves 6-8

Like baked barbecue pork buns, bagel dogs held a special place in my heart growing up. When hunger pangs struck after a long day at school, these bagel wrapped beauties were one of my favorite go-to snacks.  I was lucky enough to grow up in a town with a small bagel shop that was making them from scratch each morning.  More than anything, I was lucky enough to have a father who enjoyed them as much as I did, so there were always a few in the fridge.  In college, I’d take a dozen back to school with me and they’d easily disappear in a couple days time.  I only had three roommates!

It wasn’t until recently, when I learned of that same bagel shop’s demise that I finally felt motivated to try making them myself at home.  After a couple of so-so attempts and oddly shaped dogs, I finally found a recipe and technique that yields outstanding results – better in many ways than the ones of my youth.  Sure, the process of making bagel dogs from scratch might seem a little daunting and unnecessary considering the availability of frozen varieties at almost every grocery store, but believe me when I say, there is no substitute for the real thing.

BAGEL DOGS

Dough adapted from The Complete International Sandwich Book, by Sonia Uvezian

If you’re going through all the trouble of making bagel dogs from scratch, make sure to pick up some good quality hot dogs for the project.  Skinless, Ball Park franks don’t really cut it in this type of preparation — I like to use Nathan’s or Kasper’s with natural casings here.  When it comes time to roll out the dough, be patient as it can be quite elastic and take a bit of elbow grease to get it to the right thickness.  Don’t be afraid to add more flour to keep everything from sticking.  Rolling the dough around the hot dogs can be a bit tricky at first, but it gets much easier with a bit of practice.  Pinch the dough to one end of the hot dog with one hand while you wrap it tightly in an overlapping spiral motion with the other.  Be sure to rest the wrapped hot dogs seam side down to prevent them from unrolling during the second rising period.  Boiling the bagel dogs will produce the chewy crust that we all love in bagels.  When it comes time to do so, handle the dogs very carefully to avoid tearing or unrolling the dough.  Dry the boiled dogs thoroughly on a dry kitchen towel to ensure that your egg glaze and toppings will adhere to the dough.  Even if they aren’t pretty, they’ll still taste delicious.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 cups water (110° F)
• 2 packages, active dry yeast
• 3 tablespoons sugar
• 3 teaspoons table salt
• 5 1/2 cups unsifted all-purpose flower (approximately)
• 12 quality all-beef hot dogs
• 2 teaspoons baking soda
• 1 egg yolk plus 1 tablespoon water, lightly beaten
• Sesame seeds, poppy seeds and/or coarse salt for garnish

METHOD:

1. Pour the water into the bowl of an electric stand mixer and sprinkle with the yeast.  Let the mixture stand about five minutes or until foamy, then stir in 3 tablespoons of sugar and the salt. Using the paddle attachment and with the mixer on medium speed, gradually add flour, beating until well-blended and smooth, until you have a stiff dough. Replace the paddle attachment with the dough hook and knead thoroughly until smooth and elastic in texture. Form the dough into a lump and place it into a lightly greased bowl. Turn the dough over to grease the top. Cover loosely with a kitchen towel and let rise in a warm place for about an hour or until doubled in size.
2. Once the dough has risen, punch it down and knead briefly to eliminate any air bubbles and turn the dough out onto a lightly floured board. Using a rolling pin, roll the dough out into a 12×9 inch rectangle or until it’s about a 1/4-inch thick, adding flour as necessary to keep the dough from sticking to the rolling pin or the board. Using a pizza cutter or sharp knife, cut 12 1-inch pieces of dough.
3. Dry the hot dogs thoroughly. Starting at one end of a hot dog, wrap the dough around overlapping slightly as you make your way to the other end. Place seam side down on a parchment lined baking sheet and repeat with remaining hot dogs and strips of dough. Cover loosely with a kitchen towel and let stand in a warm place for about 30 to 45 minutes.
4. Preheat the over to 400°. Fill a deep, heavy pot with water and add the baking soda. Bring to a gentle boil. Working 2 to 3 bagels at a time, carefully drop the bagel dogs into the boiling water, turning frequently with a slotted spoon or spatula, for about a minute. Lift out of the water and gently dry each bagel well on a kitchen towel and arrange about 2-inches apart on a parchment lined baking sheet, seam side down. Repeat with remaining bagel dogs.
5. Brush the bagels with the egg glaze and sprinkle on your garnish of choice. Bake for about 35 minutes or until nicely browned and crusty, turning the pan about halfway through. Serve warm or let cool on a wire rack.
   

Makes 12 Bagel Dogs

Having grown up in the Bay Area, I’m pretty accustomed to eating some damn good Mexican food.  As a true fan of the cuisine, I consider myself blessed to live within minutes of the birthplace of the original Mission-style burrito.  So, with some of the best taquerías in the entire state literally moments from my apartment, it’s with great embarrassment that I am here to say I enjoy eating at Chipotle Mexican Grill every once in a while.  Don’t get me wrong, I would NEVER pass up a burrito from one of my favorite joints here in town, but when I find myself craving some good barbacoa, I always know where I can find some.

Even though we have a taquería on every corner here in San Francisco serving mounds of carnitas, al pastor, chile verde and carne asada, very few in fact offer a version of this dish.  Good barbacoa is succulent beef that is slow-simmered in a spicy broth flavored with tangy lime juice, smoky chipotle chiles and plenty of garlic until it’s practically falling apart.  Seasoned with just the right amount of herbs, vinegar and salt, Chipotle’s come pretty darn close to some of the best I’ve ever eaten.  So, cobbled together from a few imposter recipes and knock-offs floating around the internet, along with some good, old-fashioned cooking know-how, I am here to offer my rendition of the barbacoa I’ve come to love from this massive chain restaurant .  I typically have them throw the stuff in a burrito at the restaurant, but here I serve it in authentic Mexican fashion, mounded up on a griddled tortilla and topped with diced white onion, plenty of cilantro and a lime wedge for squeezing over the top.  Pass some good bottled hot sauce or some avocado-tomatillo salsa for another great accompaniment or whip up a batch of cochinita pibil or chile-braised pork and throw a taco party.

TACOS DE BARBACOA

Slow-braising the beef is the essence of this simple recipe.  After you’ve made the adobo sauce in a food processor or blender,  make sure you dry all sides of the beef chuck before adding them to the oil in the pot.  I like to take my time when searing beef like chuck or short-ribs for braises.  Take care to brown the beef evenly without scorching or burning the fond at the bottom of the pot as this will contribute bitterness to the dish while it is simmering.  If necessary, I’ll brown the beef in two batches if I don’t have enough room to accommodate high heat searing without running the risk of steaming the meat its own juices.  Before placing the lid on the pot, cover it tightly with tin foil to create a nice seal — this will aid in the loss of moisture and liquid reduction over the long braising process.  Check the meat after a few hours or so to make sure there is sufficient moisture in the pot and add more stock if necessary to come about 1/3 of the way up the side of the beef. This dish can be completed through step 4 and refrigerated overnight.  If you decide to go down that route, store the meat separately  from any leftover braising liquid and reheat them together over low heat before serving.

INGREDIENTS

• 1/3 cup  cider vinegar
• 3 tablespoons lime juice
• 3-4 canned chipotle chiles
  
• 4 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
  
• 3 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin
• 2 teaspoons dried Mexican oregano
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
• 1 1/2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
• 1 1/2 teaspoons table salt or 3 teaspoons Kosher
  
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 4 pounds boneless chuck roast, excess fat removed
  
• 3/4 cup chicken broth, plus more as needed
  
• 3 bay leaves
• 20 warm corn tortillas
• Diced white onion, chopped cilantro and lime wedges for garnish
  

METHOD

1. Preheat the oven to 275°.
2. Combine the cider vinegar, lime juice, chipotle chiles, garlic cloves, cumin, oregano, clove, black pepper and salt in the bowl of a food processor or blender and puree until completely smooth — about a minute or so.  Transfer the spice paste to a bowl and set aside.
3. Dry the roast all over with paper towels, cut away any excess fat and slice the meat into 4 evenly sized pieces.  Heat the 2 tablespoons of oil in a very large pot set over high heat until it begins to shimmer.  Working in batches if necessary, sear the beef on all sides until deeply browned, about 10 minutes.
4. Add the chile puree to the pot and stir until the beef is well-coated.  Add the chicken stock and bay leaves and bring the liquid to a boil.  Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover the lid with tin foil and add the lid to create a very tight seal.  Place the pot in the oven and braise the meat for 5-6 hours, removing the lid during the last hour or so to allow the simmering liquid to reduce slightly. Allow the beef to cool slightly, spoon off any easily removable fat from the braising liquid and then use two forks to pull/shred the beef into bite size pieces.
5. Taste and adjust as necessary for seasonings.  Serve spooned onto warm corn tortillas topped with diced white onion, chopped cilantro and lime wedges for garnish.

Makes about 20 tacos

My girlfriend (and her entire family) is nuts for broccoli beef.  In fact, she’s down with almost all of the classic Chinese-American dishes — chow mein, wonton soup, cashew chicken, etc.  When I told her I was planning on pulling together a few recipes for Chinese New Year to post on the blog, she insisted that this dish had to be on the menu.  As she put it, “this is the type of Chinese food that everybody loves.”  As hard as it is to admit, I too am fairly partial to a good take-out box of broccoli beef every once in a while.  Sure, I have a few Chinese friends that scoff at the very notion of this dish as a truly “authentic” Chinese dish, but the fact of the matter is, this is good, simple comfort food at its best.

Making good broccoli beef at home is way easier than most people think.  In fact, with a few Asian ingredients that all home chefs should have in their pantry and about a pound of good flank steak, the average home cook can have an outstanding dish on their table in less than a half hour.  Simply follow the principles of good stir-frying technique and you are pretty much guaranteed solid results.  Make this dish. After you see how easy it is to put together you might just reconsider paying $9-$10 for it at a restaurant the next time you get that craving.

BROCCOLI BEEF

Adapted from Jaden Hair’s Recipe at Simply Recipes

Blanching the broccoli before adding it to the pan ensures that each floret will be perfectly cooked in your final dish as it would never have the chance to fully cook given the brief frying period in this recipe.  As with all blanching of vegetables, do so in a very large pot of well-salted water and have your ice bath ready and waiting.  When it comes time to stir-fry the beef, make sure your pan is ripping hot.  Once the beef has been added, don’t touch it.  I like there to be a good amount of caramelization taking place on the meat during this initial sear and you will not be able to induce much browning if you are constantly stirring the contents of the pan.  Considering how drastic the difference in salt levels can be among certain brands of soy sauce and oyster sauce, taste the sauce before adding it to the pan and adjust accordingly.  If you find the sauce a bit too salty, try adding a few pinches of sugar to balance out the flavor.

INGREDIENTS:

• 3/4 pound flank steak, thinly sliced against the grain
• 3/4 pound broccoli florets
• 2 tablespoons peanut, grapeseed or vegetable oil
• 2 cloves garlic, finely minced
• 1 teaspoon cornstarch, dissolved in 1 tablespoon water

For the Marinade:

• 1 teaspoon soy sauce
• 1 teaspoon Chinese rice wine (or dry sherry)
• 1/2 teaspoon cornstarch
• 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

For the Sauce:

• 2 tablespoons oyster sauce
• 1 teaspoon Chinese rice wine (or dry sherry)
• 1 tablespoon light soy sauce
• 1/4 cup chicken broth
• 1/4 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
• Sugar to taste

METHOD:

1. Marinate the Beef: Stir together the beef marinade ingredients in a medium bowl.  Add in the slices of beef and stir until well coated.  Set aside at room temperature for at least 10 minutes.
   
2. Make the Sauce: Stir together the sauce ingredients in a small bowl until well combined. Set aside.
   
3. Blanch the Broccoli: Cook the broccoli florets in a large pot of well-salted boiling water for 1 to 2 minutes or until crisp-tender.  Using a slotted spoon, remove the broccoli from the boiling water and ‘shock’ the florets immediately in ice water to stop the cooking process.  Drain well, dry and set aside.
   
4. Make the Broccoli Beef: Heat the 2 tablespoons of oil in a large skillet or wok over set over high heat until shimmering and just starting to smoke.  Add the marinated beef to the pan in a single layer, making sure that each pieces lays flat against the bottom for maximum surface contact.  Let the beef fry for 1 minutes without turning or flipping.  Turn the beef over, add the garlic to the pan and allow to fry for another 30 seconds or until no longer pink.
   
5. Stir the contents of the pan and pour in the sauce, add the blanched broccoli and bring to a boil.  Add the dissolved cornstarch liquid and simmer until slightly thickened, about 30 more seconds.  Take the pan off the heat, swirl in the sesame oil and serve immediately.

Serves 4

You know that smell you catch a whiff of during those warm summertime evenings when everybody and their uncle is out in the backyard barbecuing?  I’m not talking about that run-of-the-mill grilled hamburger smell that wafts over your neighbors fence every weekend, I’m talking about that intoxicating, exotic aroma of soy and garlic marinated beef mixing with the sweet smell of wood smoke.  Haven’t smelled it?  Well, odds are you don’t have a large Korean population in your neighborhood, so let me frame this scenario a little differently.  You know the Korean spot in your local mall’s food court?  You know that ridiculously enticing aroma you smell each time you walk by?  That’s probably kalbi, or marinated and grilled beef short ribs.

While beef short ribs have grown in popularity over the past few years, I’m surprised to learn that many people have never had them prepared in this style.  They are a notoriously tough cut of meat that benefits from long periods of slow, low-heat cooking, but when cut in the flanken style (perpendicular to the bone), marinated in a sweet and salty aromatic mixture for a couple of days and cooked quickly on a hot grill, you have a whole different experience at hand.  This is the type of eating that is perfectly suited for the backyard.  In fact, this is the type of dish that allows one to get in touch with their primordial ancestry.  This isn’t filet mignon were talking about, in fact, it’s quite the opposite.  Kalbi requires a good set of chompers and a willingness to get your hands (and face) dirty pulling the sweet, succulent meat from the three tiny bones that run the length of the rib.  In my mind, a little messiness is well worth the experience of eating these sweet and savory morsels.  Not only do they pack an incredibly beefy flavor, but the perfect amount of charring on the grill will bring out the soy, garlic, sesame oil and sugars in the marinade, perfuming the air with a mix of aromas that are certain to get your salivary glands flowing.

Next time you’re looking to grill something a little bit out of the ordinary or spot some beautiful flanken-style beef ribs at the grocery store, do yourself a favor and try out this recipe.  Your neighbors are guaranteed to be jealous.

KALBI (GRILLED KOREAN SHORT RIBS)

Adapted from David Chang’s, Momofuku

When shopping for the flanken-style short ribs in this recipe, look for those with a thickness between 1/3 and 1/2-inch in thickness.  Short ribs that are cut too thinly will cook far too quickly over the heat of a hot grill, leaving you with dry, overcooked jerky-like ribs.  David Chang’s mother used Mott’s apple juice in her family recipe for kalbi –  a brilliant addition to this marinade considering its unique sweet and slightly sour flavor.  After you’ve made the marinade and before you’ve added it to the ribs, give it a try and adjust the flavor to fit your own taste.  It shouldn’t need more salt, but adjust for sweetness by adding a few pinches of brown sugar if you’d like it on the sweeter side, and increase the acidity by adding a splash of rice vinegar. The short ribs will taste best if you allow them to sit in the marinade overnight, and will further intensify in flavor if left for a couple of days, turning the bag every so often to distribute the liquid.  For maximum flavor and authenticity, I recommend grilling these guys over charcoal.  Gas grilling will still yield outstanding results, but the ribs won’t have the same smoky character that comes from grilling over live embers.  I like to grill the ribs over fairly high heat to promote quick caramelization and retention of as much juice as possible. The goal is grill/color them quickly to prevent them from overcooking by drying out the flesh. Keep in mind that the marinade is high in sugar and will have the tendency to burn quickly if you are not careful.  Keep and eye on these — they go fast.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 cups apple juice, preferably Motts
• 1/2 cup soy sauce, preferably usukuchi (light soy sauce)
• 1/2 yellow onion, thinly sliced
• 5 to 6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
• 1/2 teaspoon grated ginger
• 1 teaspoon Asian sesame oil
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
• Brown sugar and rice vinegar to taste
  
• 2 1/2 – 3 pounds flanken-style cut beef short ribs
• Leaf lettuces for garnish
  
• 2 tablespoons sesame seeds, lightly toasted
• 1/3 cup scallions, thinly sliced

METHOD:

1. In a medium bowl, combine the apple juice, soy sauce, onion, garlic, ginger, sesame oil, black pepper, and crushed red pepper flakes, stirring until well incorporated.
   
2. Place the short ribs in a large, heavy-duty zip top bag and pour in the marinade over the top.  Remove as much air as possible from the bag and massage the meat to distribute the marinade evenly.  Allow the ribs to marinate overnight in the refrigerator, or as long as two days, turning the bag over and redistributing the marinade every so often.
   
3. Remove the ribs from the refrigerator and allow them to come to room temperature.  Prepare a charcoal grill for direct grilling over high heat or preheat a gas grill on high until hot.  Drain off as much marinade as possible from the short ribs before laying them across the grill grate.  Grill over high heat until well-caramelized and just beginning to char in spots, about 2-3 minutes.  Flip the ribs and repeat on the second side, moving the ribs occasionally to avoid any flareups, until just cooked to medium.
4. Remove the ribs from the grill and allow them to rest.  When you are ready to serve, line a platter with leaf lettuce, pile on the short ribs and garnish with scallions and sesame seeds.  Serve at once.
   

Serves 4

I spent the weekend barbecuing in the rain.  Sure, Winter might not be the best time to break out the Webber and smoke some meat, but having lived in a San Francisco apartment without access to a yard for a couple of years, I’ll take any opportunity I can get.  I spent the past few days away at my parents vacation home in Sea Ranch, and despite Mother Nature’s best efforts to keep me cooped up inside, I decided to brave the elements and experiment with an old recipe that I’ve been meaning to try for a while now.

When it comes to barbecue, for me, it doesn’t get much tastier than a good pulled pork sandwich topped with a tangy, vinegary coleslaw.  I’ll order them whenever and wherever.  In fact, on a business trip to North Carolina, I spent nearly $40.00 on a round trip taxi to a local BBQ joint claiming to have the best pulled pork in all of The Carolinas.  However, having spent so much time dedicated to finding the ultimate pulled pork sandwich, it recently donned on me that I’d been neglecting another hallmark barbecue staple — the BBQ Beef Sandwich.

Now, what you see above is by no means authentic or traditional in any way, shape or form.  This recipe is an adaptation of one from America’s Test Kitchen’s, Cook’s Country for a knock-off, quick riff on the beef-centric barbecue of Texas.  Knowing that I’d be missing the slaw found on its pulled pork cousin, I decided to whip up a batch of creamy coleslaw studded with rich blue cheese – one of beef’s best friends – as a crunchy condiment.  Placed atop some fluffy brioche hamburger buns I found at the local market, I was left with a sandwich that was instantly catapulted into the ranks of some of the best I’ve ever made.  Smoky, saucy and beefy, these sandwiches pack huge flavor.  This recipe is great for a crowd and can be prepared well in advance of service once you have the smoking out of the way.

BBQ BEEF SANDWICH WITH BLUE CHEESE COLESLAW

Adapted from Cook’s Country

This recipe requires the use of a charcoal or gas grill in order to smoke the beef prior to baking it in a low oven to finish cooking and further tenderize the meat.  This step of the cooking process is necessary to develop a nice smoky character and lend the beef an authentic barbecue flavor.  If you are working with a gas grill, simply heat all of the elements on high and place the foil packet full of wood chips on the primary burner.  Allow the foil packet to smoke heavily (about 15 minutes) and keep the primary burner on high while you turn off the remaining burners.  Place the roasting pan on the end of the grill opposite the primary burner, cover the grill and proceed with the recipe as directed below.  For the coleslaw, feel free to add as much or as little of the mayonnaise dressing as you would like.  I personally like to go a little light on the saucing in order to allow the cabbage and carrots to retain some of their crunch.  The slaw can be served cold or at room temperature when it comes time to top the beef sandwiches, but I especially like the cool contrast of a crunchy slaw fresh from the refrigerator against the warm, saucy beef.

INGREDIENTS:

For the Beef:

• 1 boneless beef chuck-eye roast (about 4 – 5 pounds)
• 1 tablespoon table salt (iodized salt)
• 1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 3 cups wood chips, soaked for 15 minutes
• 6 soft hamburger buns

For the Sauce:

• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 4 garlic cloves, minced
• 1/2 teaspoon chili powder
• 1 1/4 cups ketchup
• 3/4 cup strong brewed coffee
• 1/2 cup cider vinegar
• 1/2 cup packed brown sugar
• 3 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

For the Coleslaw:

• 1/2 small head green cabbage, finely shredded
• 1/2 small head purple cabbage, finely shredded
• 3 large carrots, peeled and grated
• 1 cup mayonnaise
• 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
• 1 tablespoon whole grain mustard
• 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon cider vinegar
• 1/2 teaspoon celery salt
• 1/4 teaspoon Kosher salt
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 3/4 cup (about 3 ounces) crumbled blue cheese
• 1/2 cup parsley, coarsely chopped

METHOD:

1. Prepare the Beef: In a small bowl, make a rub by combining the salt, pepper and cayenne.  Slice the roast into 4 equal sized pieces and remove any excess fat or gristle.  Rub the meat on all sides with the salt mixture then wrap each piece tightly in plastic wrap.  Place the meat on a plate and allow to sit overnight in the refrigerator.
2. Smoke the Beef: Unwrap the beef and place them in a single layer in a large disposable aluminum roasting pan.  Neatly wrap the soaked wood chips in a large piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil and poke a few holes in it to allow smoke to escape.  Open the bottom vent of the grill and light 50 coals in a chimney starter.  When the coals are covered in a fine gray ash pour them in a single pile on only one side of the grill.  Place the foil packet directly on top of the hot coals and place the lid on the grill.  Set the cooking grate in place and adjust the vents on the lid of the grill until they are halfway open.  When the wood chips begin to smoke heavily (after about 5 minutes) place the roasting pan on the side of the grill opposite the coals.  Place the lid back on the grill with the vent holes directly over the beef and allow to smoke/roast for about 2 hours, until aromatic and deep red in color.
3. Braise/Roast the Beef: Preheat the oven to 300° F and adjust rack to the lower-middle position.  Remove the roasting pan from the grill and turn each piece of beef over.  Cover the pan tightly with foil and place in the oven and bake until the meat is fork tender, about 2-3 hours.  Remove the beef from the pan, tent it loosely with foil and allow it to rest for at least 30 minutes.  While the meat is resting, pour off the pan drippings into a gravy separator.  Reserve 2 tablespoons of the separated fat and strain the remaining juices, reserving 1/2 cup of liquid.
4. Meanwhile, make the Blue Cheese Coleslaw: In a medium bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, both mustards, vinegar, celery salt, Kosher salt and pepper.  Pour enough of the mayonnaise dressing over the shredded cabbages and grated carrots to moisten them.  Add in the crumbled blue cheese and chopped parsley and toss well to combine.  Cover the bowl and refrigerate for a few hours to allow the flavors to combine.
5. Make the Barbecue Sauce: Combine the onion and reserved fat in a saucepan over medium heat.  Cook, stirring occasionally until the onion has softened, about 10 minutes.  Add the minced garlic and chili powder and cook, stirring constantly until well combined and aromatic, about 30 seconds.  Stir in remaining sauce ingredients and reserved juices and simmer until thickened, about 15-20 minutes.  Allow the sauce to cool slightly before straining the sauce if you prefer a velvety texture.
6. Assemble the Sandwiches: Split and lightly toast each hamburger bun.  Using 2 forks, pull the beef apart into shreds, discarding any excess fat or gristle.  In a saucepan set over low heat, toss the beef with enough barbecue sauce to moisten the meat well.  When heated through, place the sauced beef on top of the bottom half of each bun.  Top the beef with some of the blue cheese coleslaw, add the top half of the bun and serve immediately.

Makes 8 Sandwiches

I’ll be the first to admit that I was bit skeptical the first time I came across a menu item that featured store-bought soda like Coca-Cola.  Convinced that the ingredient was completely superfluous and included solely for the sake of novelty, it wasn’t until I dug into a plate of tender, fall-of-the-bone, Dr. Pepper braised beef short ribs at the Roaring Fork in Scottsdale, Arizona, that I realized it was no gimmick.

I’d like to say that braising meat with the addition of soda brings a flavor to dishes that is unparalleled in complexity and nuance, but after using it as a medium in other dishes, I’ve found it simply contributes a unique, savory sweetness.  This flavor profile seems especially well suited for a tough, fatty cut of meat like brisket.  Long, slow simmering renders what is otherwise a notoriously chewy cut of beef into an unctuous, meltingly-tender meal that is perfect for the cold months ahead.  In the end, it’s amazing how a tough, budget cut of beef and a handful of cheap pantry ingredients can come together to create a dish that is as satisfying and filling this one. I know it looks like the cover image of a Hungry-Man TV dinner, but trust me, this stuff is comfort food at it’s best.

COCA-COLA BRAISED BEEF BRISKET

Adapted from the April, 2004 issue of Food and Wine Magazine

Keep a close eye on the brisket during the initial searing process as the spice rub is high in sugar and will have the propensity to burn if the heat is not controlled.  Before you place the meat in the oven to braise, tightly cover the pot with a few pieces of aluminum foil to create tight seal before adding the lid.  This dish can be prepared through Step #6 and refrigerated overnight.  This will not only allow you to easily remove any solidified fat from the pan sauce, but will also improve the meat’s overall flavor from a rest overnight in it’s flavorful juices.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons brown sugar
• 1 tablespoon Kosher salt
• 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
• 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 1/2 teaspoon sweet paprika
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
• 1/4 teaspoon unsweetened cocoa powder
• 1/4 teaspoon ground coriander
• 1/4 teaspoon white pepper
• One 2 1/2 – 3 pound beef brisket, trimmed
• 1 1/2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 2 large onions sliced 1/2-inch thick
• 1 pound carrots, sliced 1/8-inch thick on a bias
• 1 cup coca-cola
• 1 14-ounce can crushed tomatoes
• 2 tablespoons ketchup
  

METHOD:

1. Combine the brown sugar, salt, garlic powder, cayenne, paprika, black pepper, cinnamon, cocoa powder, coriander and white pepper in a small bowl.  Make sure the spices are well incorporated and rub the mixture evenly into the beef.  Set the brisket in a baking dish, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.
2. Preheat the oven to 325°.  Heat the vegetable oil in a large dutch oven over medium-high heat.  Place the brisket into the pot, fat side down, and sear the meat until richly browned, about 6 minutes per side.  Transfer to a plate.
3. Add the sliced onions to the oil left in the pot and cook until softened, about 12-15 minutes.  Keep the pot covered and stir frequently to prevent burning.  Add the carrots, cover and cook, stirring until softened, about 5 more minutes.  Transfer onions and carrots to a bowl.
4. Deglaze the pan by adding in the coca-cola, tomatoes and ketchup.  Scrape the bottom of the pot with the back of a wooden spoon to dissolve all of the brown, caramelized bits.
5. Carefully add the brisket back to the dutch oven along with any accumulated juices.  Place the carrots and onions around the meat.  If needed, add enough water to keep the meat half-submerged in liquid.  Cover the pot tightly with aluminum foil before closing the lid.  Place in the oven to slowly braise for 3 hours.
6. Gently remove the brisket from its braising liquid and allow to rest on a board, tented with aluminum foil for 30 minutes.  Raise the oven temperature to 425°.  Slice the rested meat across the grain into 1/4-inch slices.  Spoon-off any accumulated fat from the top of the juices left in the dutch oven and return the sliced brisket to the pot.
7. Return the pot to the oven, uncovered, and cook until the meat is fork-tender, about 30-40 minutes.  Remove the pot from the oven and let stand for 15 minutes before removing the sliced brisket to a platter.  Spoon over the onions, carrots and sauce and serve immediately.

Serves 5-6

Ah, the good ol’ days: when spending 30 bucks on Thai takeout was just your typical Wednesday night. Now, income-less, Thai food along with Chinese and pizza seems like quite the luxury. These days I’m making my own Thai food, and to be honest, not missing a thing.  At home, I make Thai food the way I like it.  Very spicy, fairly salty and just a little sweet. Such is the beauty of having curry pastes sitting in your freezer ready at your disposal.  What seems like an exotic and esoteric cuisine on the surface is actually fairly simple to prepare at home.

I like to think of panang as a great beginner curry for those that are new to Thai cuisine.  Reminiscent of everybody’s favorite peanut dipping sauce which accompanies the ubiquitous satay, panang is at once both bright and aromatic while at the same time, rich and comforting.

I’m lucky enough to live in San Francisco where I can find pretty much anything I need at any of the many Asian markets.  However, if you love Thai food and can’t find a store that stocks such items as palm sugar, lime leaves, or good Thai coconut milk, check out www.importfood.com for everything you need (and then some).

PANANG BEEF CURRY

Once you have the hard part of making the paste out of the way, this curry comes together quite quickly.  Make sure to use a good, full-fat brand of coconut milk when making this dish.  The thick cream that settles at the top of each can is rich in oil and acts as the perfect stir-frying medium to bloom the curry paste’s aroma and flavors.  Many panang recipes call for the addition of ground peanuts instead of peanut butter.  Either makes a fine choice, but I love the velvety texture that comes from using the stuff in jars.  Finally, adjust the final seasoning to your own tastes.  Some people like their curry sweeter or saltier than others, so feel free to add more fish sauce or palm sugar along the way to fit your own palate.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 19 fl. oz can Thai coconut milk (I use Mae Ploy brand)
• 4-5 tablespoons homemade Panang curry paste
• 1 lb. beef cross rib roast, sliced 2 x 1/4 inch thick
• 3-4 tablespoons fish sauce
• 2 tablespoons palm sugar
• 2 tablespoons all-natural peanut butter (smooth or crunchy)
• 1/2 cup water
• 4-6 Thai chilies, split lengthwise
• 2-3 limes leaves cut into a chiffonade for garnish
• Lime wedges for garnish

METHOD:

1. Skim the thick cream from the top of the can of coconut milk into a large saucepan, reserving the watery milk.  Set the saucepan over medium-high heat and stir the cream vigorously until the glossy oil surfaces.
2. Add the curry paste and continue to stir vigorously until fragrant and a red oil surfaces, about 2 minutes.
3. Add in the sliced beef and stir to coat well with the curry mixture.  Add in the remaining coconut milk, fish sauce, palm sugar, peanut butter, water and chilies.  Stir to dissolve the the peanut butter and palm sugar and simmer over low heat for one hour, or until the curry has reduced into a thick sauce and the beef is very tender.
4. Taste the curry for for salt and sweetness.  If it needs more salt, add a few more dashes of fish sauce, if it needs to be sweeter, add more palm sugar.
5. Transfer the curry to a serving bowl and garnish with the lime leaf chiffonade.  Serve with lime wedges.

Serves 4