Archive for the ‘ Beef ’ Category

PANANG CURRY PASTE

Panang Curry Paste

Maybe I watched too many episodes of The Naked Chef when I was younger, but in my mind, there are few kitchen activities more satisfying than giving a handful of aromatic herbs and spices a good pounding in a large, heavy mortar. Handmade pesto is great and whole-toasted spices don’t last a second in the bowl of a nice granite model, but for me, it’s in the act of making Thai curry paste that Iget the most out of one of my simplest kitchen tools.

Making curry paste the authentic way is a tactile and fragrant experience. In fact, things oftentimes get so aromatic that Lauren practically has to lock herself in our bedroom to avoid the pungent odor of toasted shrimp paste – an essential component of true Thai curry. Here I’ve included a recipe for a paste to create one of my all-time favorite curries: panang. Citrus notes dominate due to the heavy use of lime zest, lime leaves, coriander seeds and lemongrass.

While some of the key ingredients might be hard to track down and the overall process requires a fair amount of prep, as Victor Sodsook points out in his cookbook, True Thai: The Modern Art of Thai Cooking, curry pastes are “like money in the bank.” An hour of hard work will pay off with intense, complex flavor in future dishes. Couple this with the fact that many pastes last weeks in the refrigerator and several months in the freezer, and you have a culinary resource that lends completed dishes a taste that will seem like it’s taken hours to build.

Check back tomorrow for recipe that puts this amazing paste to good use; Panang Beef Curry.

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HOME-STYLE SLOPPY JOES

Sloppy Joes

I didn’t eat many sloppy joes growing up. Maybe my parents ate one too many soggy renditions during their own childhood, but for whatever reason this was an item that was rarely seen on the dinner menu at my house.  It turns out that my lack of experience with these saucy, loose meat burgers puts me in a minority among friends who all recount fond memories of eating them on a near weekly basis. For me, sloppy joes have always represented your typical lunch counter fodder: a half simmering pot of reddish-brown mystery meat smashed between a sodden, dissolve-on-contact bun. For them, Mom cracking open a can of Manwich stood out as a true suppertime treat in a lineup of otherwise dismal home-cooked fare.

It wasn’t until I came across a recipe for this iconic American sandwich in a recent issue of Cook’s Illustrated Magazine that I decided to give sloppy joes another look.  As usual, it looked as though the editors had found a few ways to rid the dish of it’s usual shortcomings and breath new life into an old favorite.  So, with a pound of ground beef sitting in the freezer and few extra homemade buns lying around from my fried chicken sandwiches, I set out to see what I’d been missing all these years.

The results were nothing short of spectacular.  Robust and beefy with a pleasant brightness coming from the addition of tomato puree, these joes were unlike anything I’d tasted in the past.  Gone was the typical grainy, greasy texture, replaced with a consistency that was pleasantly thick, yet saucy enough to blend seamlessly with the tender, pillow-soft bun.

Now to convince my parents to give them a shot.

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RED CHILE BEEF TOSTADAS

Red Chile Beef Tostada

If you have any smoky chipotle black beans leftover, you might want to consider making this tostada — a dish that represents the marriage of two of my all-time favorite recipes.

Lucky enough to live only a short drive from the Napa Valley, I’ve had the opportunity to dine at Cindy Pawlcyn’s restaurants since I was a boy.  Having eaten amazing meals at Go Fish and Mustards Grill, the most memorable dish came on a visit to Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen for lunch when I first tasted her famous Rabbit Tostada.  Imagine tender, juicy chile-braised rabbit nestled on top of warm, earthy black beans and a crispy fried tortilla.  Finished with a refreshing salad of herbs, thinly sliced cabbage and tart feta cheese, quite simply, this is as good as a tostada can get.

The other half of this recipe comes from pioneering chef, Robert Del Grande and his restaurant, Cafe Annie.  While I still haven’t had the opportunity to visit the iconic Houston restaurant, I have made his signature bar staple, Black Bean Nachos with Red Chile Beef.  With each tortilla chip covered in the perfect amount of over five different flavor components, it goes without saying that these were the most delicious and extravagant nachos I’d ever eaten.  However, at a prep time of close to three hours, I haven’t gotten around to making them as often as I would like.

Hence, the Red Chile Beef Tostada was born.  Taking key elements from each dish, I’ve put together a recipe that pays homage to the very best of each chef.  Rich, meaty red chile beef fills in for the guajillo-braised rabbit in Cindy’s dish, whereas a black bean topped tostada and refreshing cabbage slaw takes the place of the bite-size nacho in Robert’s.  The result is too delicious to describe. You’re just going to have to try it.

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ROAST BEEF SANDWICH WITH DILL HORSERADISH SPREAD

Roast Beef Sandwich

I have a confession to make — I make roast beef specifically for the sandwiches. As good as it is warm, dripping with juices and fresh from the oven, roast beef takes on an entirely different identity when it’s cold, thinly sliced and piled high on top of good bread. Another reason I love making roast beef sandwiches? Horseradish. I can’t get enough of the stuff and truthfully, can’t find a better application (outside of prime rib) than when its teamed up with creamy mayonnaise inside of a sandwich.

Curious about what type of cheese people typically ask for on their roast beef sandwiches, I asked the checkout guy at the supermarket what he would choose. After a momentary pause he looked at me with a puzzled expression and responded sheepishly with,”Cheddar?” After asking several more of my friends and family the same question, I came away with similar, unsure responses. Realizing that sandwiches, like ones favorite pizza toppings, are very much tied to individual tastes, I figured there was no use trying to produce an archetypical version and decided to experiment. So, with some leftover dill from my Turkish stuffed grape leaves and what was left of a container of cream cheese in the fridge, I put together this piquant spread that adds a flavorful twist to an old favorite.

I’ve gone with something less traditional here, but what do you think belongs on a roast beef sandwich?

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ROAST BEEF

Roast Beef

I didn’t eat much roast beef growing up; the only place I ever really saw it was in sandwiches. In fact, my first encounter with this particular roast beef came about after a botched attempt at an Italian beef sandwich.  See, I have a thing for sandwiches.  I expect perfection: not too small, not too crusty, and each flavor component should burst with each bite. Unlike my reproduction of the BELT, my beef sando effort was doomed from the start. First I ruined the relish. Then I realized I wasn’t going to have nearly the jus required for an authentic, “wet” Chicago-style hoagie. Instead, I was left with a perfectly cooked,  medium-rare eye-round roast — there are worse problems, I know. Now Lauren begs me to make this “failure” every couple of weeks.

Employing a few slow-roasting techniques that I’ve picked up over the years as well some overnight salting, I’ve refined this recipe into a roast that yields superbly seasoned, tender and juicy meat.  Served alongside mashed potatoes with a horseradish cream sauce or steak sauce and you have a cheap dinner that definitely satisfies any serious beef cravings.

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