Summer time means basil, and basil means pesto.  But this isn’t a recipe for pesto -  I make mine different every time – no, this is a recipe that takes pesto and makes it something more, something special.  How do you make pesto, already chock full of robust herbiness and garlic, better? Two words: goat cheese.   Think of this humble sandwich as a stage. If the grilled chicken, marinated in garlic and Italian herbs, is the lead, the pesto goat cheese spread is the supporting role who steals the show.  The chicken we clap for; the spread gets a standing ovation.

Metaphors aside, this is a solid summer sandwich, just right for a weekend lunch or casual weeknight dinner and fairly easy to make, too. Even the harshest critics, are sure to give it rave reviews.

GRILLED CHICKEN SANDWICH WITH PESTO GOAT CHEESE SPREAD

Adapted from Gourmet Magazine

The pesto goat cheese spread in this recipe is seriously delicious stuff.  If you have homemade pesto lying around, then by all means use it in this recipe.  If not, this is what the store-bought variety was meant for.  While it’s great on a sandwich, also consider putting it out as a dip for guests alongside crudités.  If you can’t find ciabatta rolls, use whatever you can find and you’ll still end up eating a killer sandwich.  I suggest butterflying the chicken breasts in this recipe to expedite the cooking time.  If your chicken breasts still seem too large to fit evenly on the roll, wait for the meat to rest and then cut each into slices on a bit of a bias and continue with the recipe. Here I’ve shown a version of this sandwich with roasted red bell peppers, but if that isn’t your thing,  a slice of ripe tomato would also be delicious.  Finally, I like to add a splash of balsamic vinegar on the mixed greens or chicken breast before assembling the sandwich to provide a tart counterbalance to the richness of the pesto goat cheese spread.  I’m sure you’ll find it’s a pleasant, unexpected addition.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 large, bone-skinless chicken breasts
• 1 teaspoon garlic, finely minced
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 3/4 teaspoon Italian seasoning
• Kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper
• 4 ounces soft mild goat cheese, at room temperature
• 2 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature
• 1/4 cup pesto
• 4 slices jarred roasted red peppers, drained well
• 1 1/2 cups mixed greens
• Balsamic vinegar to taste
• 4 ciabatta rolls, split in half

METHOD:

1. Fillet or slice the chicken breasts in half horizontally to produce 4 thin cutlets.  Place the chicken into a medium bowl and add the garlic, olive oil and Italian seasoning.  Season lightly with salt and pepper.  Allow to marinate for at least 1 hour or as long as overnight in the refrigerator.
2. Add the goat cheese, cream cheese and pesto to a food processor and blend until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper and set aside.
3. Prepare a gas or charcoal grill for direct, high-heat grilling.  Drain the chicken cutlets from their marinade and season again with salt and freshly cracked black pepper.  Sear the breasts on each side for about 4 minutes, or until just cooked through, and set aside to allow to rest.  Meanwhile, briefly toast the rolls until warmed through and slightly crisp.
4. Toss the mixed greens with just a touch of balsamic vinegar and begin to assemble the sandwiches by spreading an even layer of the pesto goat cheese mixture on each half of the ciabatta roll followed by one of the rested chicken cutlets, a slice of roasted red bell pepper, and a handful of the balsamic dressed mixed greens.  Top with the other half of the roll and serve warm.

Makes 4 sandwiches

I’m sure they wouldn’t like to admit it, but even some of the world’s most accomplished home cooks struggle when attempting to roast the perfect chicken.  The fact is it’s far easier to make a roasted chicken look good than it is to make it taste good. I don’t know how many times I’ve sat down to enjoy what I believed to be a perfectly roasted chicken — the quintessential golden brown bird flecked with black pepper and fragrant herbs — only to cut into the thing and find it bone dry or worse, still raw at the bone. Or, and this is perhaps worst of all, a combination of both, so that you end up hacking it up and destroying the only thing it had going for it: its good looks.

But this roast chicken? Well, it’s an entirely different beast, or rather, bird.  First, it’s the smell. An intoxicating aroma of garlic will start you salivating. Then you’ll notice the skin. Not only is it golden brown, it’s crisp, like really crisp.  And beneath that exterior you’ll find the juiciest and most tender chicken you’ve ever cut into. But it’s the flavor that will leave you coming back for more. The marinade’s combination of garlic, mustard, soy sauce and herbes de provence create a flavor that is at once familiar and completely unexpected. In addition to the marinade, the cooking method is also unique. Unlike typical whole roasted chicken, this recipe calls for you to butterfly the bird. Not only does this help the meat cook more evenly, but it also allows you to sear the bottom of the chicken before throwing it in the oven and cook it in half the time of a usual whole roasted chicken. Sound perfect? It is. But don’t take my word for it.

ROASTED CHICKEN WITH A MUSTARD CRUST

Adapted from Jacques Pepin’s, More Fast Food My Way

The thought of removing the backbone from the chicken in this recipe can be a bit overwhelming if you’ve never done it before, but rest assured that it is actually quite a simple skill that all home chefs should have in their arsenal.  Make sure to use a sharp knife or a good pair of heavy duty kitchen shears and don’t be afraid to use a little elbow grease to get through those rib bones.  If you are too intimidated by such a task, most butchers will happily do this for you.  Whichever route you choose though, make sure you save the backbone for making rich, homemade chicken stock.  Cutting deep slashes in and around the thigh and shoulder joints of the bird allows for quick, even cooking due to increased heat penetration.  When it comes time to rest the bird after roasting, don’t let all those beautiful caramelized bits go to waste in the skillet.  Pour off any excess fat, return the skillet to the stove over medium heat and deglaze the pan with a splash of white wine, being sure to scrape up any browned bits clinging to the pan.  Pour in a bit of chicken stock (about a cup), bring to a simmer and swirl in a couple of tablespoons of cold butter just before serving and you will be left with an outstanding gravy, perfect for pouring over fluffy mashed potatoes.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 tablespoons minced garlic
  
• 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
• 2 tablespoons dry white wine
• 1 tablespoon soy sauce
  
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 teaspoon hot sauce
• 1 teaspoons herbs de Provence
  
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
  
• 1 chicken (3 1/2 – 4 pounds)

METHOD:

1. Whisk all of the ingredients (except chicken) together in a small bowl until emulsified into a fragrant, wet marinade.
   
2. Using kitchen shears or a sharp knife, cut along each side of the backbone to remove it.  The best way to do this if you don’t have kitchen shears is to sit the chicken on it’s bottom and slice all the way down each side of the back bone in a straight line. Once you’ve removed the backbone, open the chicken up like a book and place it on the cutting board, cavity side down. Press firmly in the center of the breast to crack the breastbone and encourage a flatter shape.  Using a sharp paring knife, cut halfway through both sides of the joints connecting the drumstick to the thigh and cut through the joints of the shoulder under the wing as well.
3. Place the chicken skin side down in a large baking dish and evenly spoon on half of the mustard marinade.  Flip the chicken over and spread the remaining mustard mixture evenly over the skin side of the chicken.  Wrap the dish in plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.
4. Remove the chicken from the refrigerator at least 30 minutes prior to cooking and preheat the oven to 450° F. Place a skillet large enough to accommodate the chicken over high heat.  When hot, place the chicken in the pan skin side up and spoon on any leftover marinade in the baking dish.  Cook the chicken on the stovetop for 5 minutes before placing the entire skillet in the oven.  Roast for 30-35 minutes, or until the chicken is well-browned with a crispy skin.
5. Remove the skillet from the oven and allow the chicken to rest in the pan for at least 5 minutes.  Place the chicken on a clean cutting board and allow it to rest for another 5 minutes.  Cut the chicken into 8 pieces using a sharp knife or kitchen shears and serve alongside mashed potatoes or a mixed green salad.

Serves 4

I know what you’re thinking — two recipes for chicken wings in three posts?  It might be a bit excessive, but the fact of the matter is, I can’t get enough of them. I love wings, my friends love wings and if the rising price of chicken wings counts for anything, so does the rest of America.  So, for all my readers who might not might not be into the fish sauce or sweet chili-glazed variety, I’m here to offer you a recipe and proper technique for the classic New York-style buffalo wing.

I grew up eating hot wings from a local Bay Area chain called Original Buffalo Wings.  On the nights we were lucky enough to call them dinner, my Mom would order up a “double dozen” along with a bag of fresh fried potato chips and an extra side of blue cheese dip for the crispy (albeit anemic) celery sticks.  Bathed in a velvety, vinegary coating of hot sauce, the wings always remained crisp — a textual enigma which I long considered a well-kept secret of the buffalo wing trade.  Having made these a handful of times now, I can tell you that there are actually few secrets to a great wing.  Just get a hold of some fresh, meaty chicken wings, dry them well to promote even browning, fry them in small batches, toss them with Frank’s RedHot sauce and a bit of margarine (gasp!) and you’ll be left with the the quintessential, finger-lickin’ good buffalo wing.

BUFFALO WINGS

Getting the wings as dry as possible before frying them is a crucial step in achieving a crispy, golden brown wing.  As always, fry the wings in batches that will not overwhelm the pot and drop your oil temperature too dramatically.  In fact, I’ll sometimes allow the oil to exceed 350° in anticipation of drop of 20-30 degrees.  This recipe calls for the use of margarine, an ingredient that I rarely, if ever, use in my cooking.  I’ve tried making them with butter and they simply just don’t turn out the same.  If you are dead-set against using margarine, consider using clarified butter — the absence of the milk solids and water should allow the hot sauce to easily emulsify.  When you are ready to toss the wings with the buffalo sauce, make sure to give it another good whisk as it tends to separate a bit while it sits.  Any hot sauce will do in this recipe, but the wings you’ve eaten in restaurants were probably made using Frank’s.  If you like your wings really hot, simply adjust the ratio of hot sauce to margarine.

INGREDIENTS:

• Peanut, canola, grapeseed or vegetable oil for Frying
• 2 pounds chicken wings (about 20), separated at the joint, wingtips removed
• 6 tablespoons margarine
• 1/2 cup Frank’s RedHot Original Cayenne Pepper Sauce (plus more to taste)
• 3 ribs of celery, sliced into 3-inch lengths
• 3/4 cup blue cheese dip (recipe follows)

METHOD:

1. Preheat oven to 200° F.  Pour oil into a heavy medium pot until it reaches a depth of 2-inches.  Heat oil over medium heat until it reaches 350° F on a candy thermometer.
2. Meanwhile, dry the wings thoroughly on paper towels to remove all residual moisture.  Working in batches, fry the wings until they are golden brown and cooked through, about 10 minutes.  Be sure to stir the wings occasionally to prevent them from sticking together.  Transfer the cooked wings to a wire rack set over a paper towel-lined baking sheet and keep them warm in the oven. Repeat frying procedure with the remaining wings.
3. Make the sauce by melting the margarine in a small saucepan over medium heat.  Add the hot sauce and whisk to combine.
4. When you are ready to serve, transfer the chicken wings to a large bowl, pour over the hot sauce mixture and toss until they are thoroughly coated.  Serve immediately with celery stick and blue cheese dip.

Makes 20 Wings

BLUE CHEESE DIP

You can think of this dip as a slightly thicker version of blue cheese dressing.  If you don’t have chives, use green onions.  Feel free to adjust the amount of sour cream and heavy cream to reach a consistency that fits your own personal taste.  If you have the time, make this earlier in the day and place it in the refrigerator to allow the flavors to come together.  Serve cold or at room temperature.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1/4 pound Danish blue cheese, crumbled
• 3 tablespoons heavy cream
• 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
• 1/4 – 1/3 cup sour cream
• 1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
• Hot sauce to taste
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 2 tablespoons minced chives

METHOD:

1. Combine the blue cheese, heavy cream and lemon juice in a small bowl.
2. Add sour cream 1 tablespoon at a time, whisking to combine.
3. Add in the Worcestershire and hot sauce and season to taste with salt and pepper.
4. Fold in minced chives and let stand at least 5 minutes before serving.

This recipe represents yet another entry into the Game Day Food Hall of Fame.  I guess I have football on the brain, or I just can’t get enough of the typical game day offerings – savory, salty homemade junk food. I made these a few years ago for a Super Bowl party and they were gone within minutes.  I too loved the wings, but felt like something was missing.  I had followed the instructions of the original recipe and baked the wings in a hot oven.  They had great flavor due to an overnight soak in cilantro, soy, ginger, garlic and red chili, but I quickly realized that the texture of a baked wing (i.e. flabby chicken skin) was not my favorite.  I needed the crispy-crunch of well-rendered chicken skin — something I was never going to get unless I fried them.  So, using a few tricks I picked up from another wing recipe, I tossed the chicken in a bit of rice flour before frying them to a delicious golden brown.  After a quick toss in the oh-so sticky, sweet chili-glaze I was left with what I consider to be one of the best finger foods around.

If you’re planning on doing any Super Bowl entertaining of your own or you just love a good wing, think about giving this recipe a try.  The asian flavor profile is a welcome alternative to the usual hot sauce/butter laden buffalo wing.  If you’re looking for a special main course, serve these guys atop a bowl of sticky rice to sop up all of that sweet-chili glaze.

SWEET CHILI-GLAZED CHICKEN WINGS

Adapted from Bon Appétit Magazine, July 1997

If you’re adverse to the idea of frying, these wings can be baked on a sheet pan in a 400° for about 20 minutes until they are golden brown.  If you decide to fry them, dredging the wings in rice flour before doing so will ensure the formation of an extra crispy crust.  If you’re having a hard time finding rice flour, you can omit this step and proceed to frying the wings after you’ve thoroughly dried them with paper towels.  Making the glaze is a simple affair, just be careful not to over-reduce the sauce to the point of a caramel. You will know the glaze is ready when it coats the back of a spoon. The resulting glaze is especially sweet, so if you want a bit more of a sour bite to your wings, don’t be afraid to scale back the amount of sugar that is called for here.  Looking for a bit more heat? Add more chili-garlic sauce.  Less heat? Just reduce the crushed red pepper called for in the dish.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 pounds chicken wings
• 1/4 cup peanut oil
• 3 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro
• 3 tablespoons soy sauce
• 2 1/2 tablesp00ns minced garlic
• 2 tablespoons minced ginger
• 1 teaspoon dried crushed red pepper flakes
• 1 cup rice flour
• Oil for deep frying (such as peanut oil, canola, grapeseed or vegetable)
• 1 cup rice vinegar
• 3/4 cup granulated sugar
• 1/2 cup water
• 1 tablespoon chili-garlic sauce
• 1/4 cup thinly sliced green onions

METHOD:

1. Cut each chicken wing in half at the joint and remove/discard wingtips.  Place the chicken in a large resealable plastic bag.
2. Mix oil, cilantro, soy sauce, 2 tablespoons garlic, ginger, and 1/2 teaspoon of the red pepper flakes in a bowl until well combined.  Pour the marinade into the plastic bag and turn to coat the chicken evenly.  Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or as long as overnight.  Toss the contents of the bag from time to time to ensure even distribution of the marinade.
3. Remove the chicken wings from the refrigerator at least 20 minutes before frying to allow them to come to room temperature.  Drain the chicken wings from the marinade and dry them thoroughly using paper towels.  Place the rice flour in a shallow plate and set aside.
4. Pour the oil into a large, heavy-bottomed pot to a depth of 2” and heat until a candy thermometer registers 350° F.  Preheat the oven to 200° F.
5. Meanwhile, while the oil is coming up to temperature, make the glaze.  Combine the rice vinegar, sugar, water, chili-garlic sauce along with the remaining 1/2 teaspoons red pepper flakes and 1/2 tablespoon of minced garlic in a medium saucepan.  Bring the mixture to a boil; reduce the heat and simmer until reduced to a thick, syrupy glaze, about 20 minutes.
6. When the oil has reached 350°, toss the chicken wings in the rice flour, patting off any excess.  Working in 2 batches, fry the wings, stirring occasionally to prevent them from sticking to one another, until each is golden brown, about 10-12 minutes total.  Transfer when done to a wire rack set over a sheet tray and keep warm in the oven until all of the wings are fried.  Repeat with remaining chicken wings.
7. Once all of the wings are fried, combine them with the glaze in a large bowl and toss to cover and coat them evenly.  Transfer the glazed wings to a serving platter and garnish with the sliced green onions.  Serve immediately.

Makes 4 appetizer servings

When I told everybody I was making a barbecue chicken pizza for my website, people asked me why I wasn’t making Thai chicken pizza instead.  Truthfully, I didn’t realize it was such a beloved item on the California Pizza Kitchen menu.  I’ve always loved them — in fact, I almost ate my weight in the frozen version while I was in college — but I never realized that other people shared my same propensity.  For me (and apparently pretty much everyone else), there is something undeniable about the combination of aromatic peanut sauce, green onions and carrots, all  piled high on a chewy crust and topped with cheese. Not at all Italian, totally un-Thai, just “American” grub at its most adaptive.

The best part of making this particular pizza at home is you can get as creative as you want. I left off the usual bean sprouts, but you could certainly add them for extra crunch. And no need to break out the crushed red pepper flakes.  Here I use sriracha chili sauce to add a little bite, but of course, if spicy’s not your thing, feel free to leave it off. A sprinkling of freshly chopped Thai basil in addition to or in lieu of the cilantro (for those cilantro-haters out there) would be a perfect compliment to the sweet, salty flavor of the peanut sauce. No matter how you top it, if you like peanut sauce, you’ll love this pizza. Plus, no tipping necessary when you’re cooking out of your own kitchen.

THAI CHICKEN PIZZA

When assembling this pizza, feel free to add as little or as much of the toppings as you want, but keep in mind that a pizza that is too heavily loaded with ingredients can end up cooking unevenly and may result in a messy final pie.  The balance of flavors is key, not the amount you can fit on the dough.  If you want even more crunch in your finished pizza, consider adding the carrots after baking as opposed to before.  I use Thai marinated grilled chicken breasts in this recipe for added authenticity, but you should feel free to use store-bought rotisserie chicken if you’re short on time — the flavorful peanut sauce should provide more than enough flavor.  I’ve said it before, but if you’re serious about making pizza at home and still don’t have a pizza stone, it should be at the top of your priority list.

INGREDIENTS:

• 24 ounces homemade or store-bought pizza dough, divided
• 1/2 cup all-purpose flour, for dusting
• About 1 1/4 cups homemade Thai peanut sauce (or store-bought)
• 1 cup grated mozzarella cheese
• 1 cup cooked grilled Thai chicken, diced (recipe below)
• 4 green onions, thinly sliced
• 1 large carrot, julienne or coarsely grated
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 1/4 cup roasted peanuts, coarsely chopped
• 1/4 cup cilantro, coarsely chopped
• Sriracha chili sauce for garnish (optional)

METHOD:

1. Place a pizza stone in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 500°.  Allow the stone to heat for at least half and hour before baking pizzas.
2. Allow the pizza dough to come to room temperature.  On a lightly-floured work surface, form the dough into two large balls, collecting the sides and tucking them under to create a smooth outer surface.  Cover the dough with a damp towel and allow to rest for at least 20 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, warm the peanut sauce in a saucepan set over low heat until heated through and pourable.
4. Generously dust a wooden peel or the back of a sheet pan with flour or cornmeal. With lightly-floured hands, press the dough with your fingertips to form a flattened disk.  Lift the dough up and use the back of your knuckles to stretch and thin-out the dough into a circle with a diameter of 12-inches. Be careful to preserve the edge of the dough if you want a light, chewy crust. Carefully position the stretched dough onto the prepared peel or baking sheet.
5. Using a ladle, spoon an even layer of the peanut sauce onto the dough and carefully spread it close to the border being careful to leave a 1/2-inch edge.  Top with an even layer of mozzarella cheese followed by pieces of the diced Thai chicken, green onions and carrots.  Top with a light sprinkling of a bit more mozzarella.  Lightly brush the exposed crust with a bit of the vegetable oil to promote browning.
6. Slide the pizza onto the preheated stone and bake until the crust is crisped and golden and the cheese is bubbling, about 6-7 minutes.  Remove from the oven and sprinkle with the roasted peanuts,  freshly chopped cilantro leaves and sriracha. Serve immediately.

Makes 2 Pizzas

BANGKOK-STYLE GRILLED CHICKEN BREAST

This is a fantastic coconut milk marinade for chicken.  It works just as well with whole, butterflied chickens as well as bone-in, skin-on pieces.  Here I use the marinade on boneless, skinless breasts.  If you don’t have an outdoor grill or grill pan, feel free to roast the breasts in a 425° oven.  You won’t be able to develop as much caramelization, but the chicken will still be quite flavorful.  The marinade contains a bit of sugar, so monitor your heat closely and watch for burning.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 boneless, skinless chicken breasts
• 7 ounces (1/2 can) coconut milk
• 1 tablespoon curry powder
• 1 tablespoon fish sauce
• 3 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
• 1/4 cup loosely packed chopped cilantro, including stems
• 1 tablespoon brown sugar
• 3/4 teaspoon white pepper

METHOD:

1. Place the chicken breasts on a cutting board and lightly score each side in a crosshatch pattern with a sharp knife to allow the marinade to penetrate.
2. Combine the coconut milk, curry powder, fish sauce, garlic, cilantro, sugar and pepper in a bowl.  Stir well and until sugar has dissolved and marinade is smooth.  Place the chicken breasts in a resealable plastic bag and pour the marinade in on top.  Seal the bag and massage the marinade into the meat to ensure an even coating.  Refrigerate the chicken and leave it to marinate for at least 3 hours or as long as overnight.
3. Prepare a charcoal grill for direct heat grilling over medium-low heat or preheat a grill pan over medium-low heat.  Place the chicken on the grill and cook, moving the chicken if any flare-ups occur, until slightly charred in spots and cooked through to an internal temperature of 160°, about 7-8 minutes per side.
4. Remove the chicken from the grill and transfer to a platter. Allow the meat to rest for 5-10 minutes before slicing.

My Italian ancestors might roll over in their graves if they knew that the first pizza recipe I was posting on my site was for barbecue chicken pizza.  But then again, this isn’t your ordinary freezer aisle, supermarket BBQ chicken pizza.

Gone are the dry-as-cardboard chicken breast cubes and sugary-sweet barbecue sauce.  Instead, I use succulent, shredded dark meat chicken bathed in a smoky, homemade barbecue sauce that’s flavored with bourbon and chipotle chilies.  If that wasn’t enough, each pizza is topped with sweet red onions and a healthy sprinkling of mozzarella and smoked cheddar cheese for an added dimension of barbecue smoke flavor.  Garnished with some fresh chopped cilantro and you have a barbecue chicken pizza so good you may never feel the need to visit a certain California-based pizza chain ever again.

SMOKY BARBECUE CHICKEN PIZZA

While I suggest you try making your own homemade barbecue sauce, you can easily substitute your favorite store-bought brand in this recipe.  I like to slowly poach my own chicken thighs in an aromatic broth for this preparation, but you can certainly use the meat from a supermarket rotisserie bird.  When it comes to topping a pizza, less is more.  If you opt to make your own sauce, you certainly will have more than you need for two pizzas.  Try not to the overload the dough with too much chicken or cheese — you’re looking for a balance of flavors, not maximum capacity.  I like to go easy on the smoked cheddar — it has a pronounced flavor that can easily overwhelm the pizza if used in too large of an amount.  Finally, if you’re at all serious about making pizza at home, a pizza stone is a must.

INGREDIENTS:

• 24 ounces homemade or store-bought pizza dough, divided
• 1/2 cup all-purpose flour, for dusting
  
• About 1 1/2 cups homemade sweet and smoky barbecue sauce (or store-bought)
• 1 cup cooked chicken, diced or shredded
• 1 small red onion, cut into 1/4-inch slices
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
  
• 2/3 cup grated, low-moisture mozzarella cheese
• 1/3 cup grated smoked cheddar cheese
• 1/4 cup cilantro, coarsely chopped
  

METHOD:

1. Place a pizza stone in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 500°.  Allow the stone to heat for at least half and hour before baking pizzas.
2. Allow the pizza dough to come to room temperature.  On a lightly-floured work surface, form the dough into two large balls, collecting the sides and tucking them under to create a smooth outer surface.  Cover the dough with a damp towel and allow to rest for at least 20 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, in a saucepan combine the shredded chicken along with about 1 cup of barbecue sauce and cook over low heat until the meat is moist and warmed through.
   
4. Heat 2 teaspoons of olive oil in a medium sauté pan set over moderately-low heat.  Add the sliced red onion and cook, stirring often, until slightly softened but not browned or caramelized, about 5-7 minutes.
   
5. Generously dust a wooden peel or the back of a sheet pan with flour or cornmeal. With lightly-floured hands, press the dough with your fingertips to form a flattened disk.  Lift the dough up and use the back of your knuckles to stretch and thin-out the dough into a circle with a diameter of 12-inches. Be careful to preserve the edge of the dough if you want a nice, chewy crust. Carefully position the stretched dough onto the prepared peel or baking sheet.
   
6. Using a ladle, spoon a thin layer of the extra barbecue sauce onto the dough and carefully spread it to the edge of it’s borders.  Top with an even layer of mozzarella cheese followed by pieces of the warmed chicken and softened red onion.  Top with light sprinkling of the smoked cheddar and a bit more of the mozzarella.  Lightly brush the exposed crust with a bit of the leftover olive oil.
   
7. Slide the pizza onto the preheated stone and bake until the crust is crisped and golden and the cheese is bubbling, about 6-7 minutes.  Remove from the oven and sprinkle with freshly chopped cilantro leaves and serve immediately.
   

Makes 2 Pizzas

SMOKY BARBECUE SAUCE

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 1/2 teaspoons vegetable oil
• 1 medium onion, chopped
• 1 teaspoon chopped garlic
• 1/4 cup bourbon
• 1/2 cup cider vinegar
• 2 1/2 tablespoons brown sugar
• 2 canned chipotle chilies in adobo, roughly chopped
• 3/4 teaspoon dijon mustard
• 3/4 teaspoon ancho chile powder
• 1/2 bay leaf
• Pinch of ground allspice
• Small pinch ground clove
  
• 1 cup chicken stock
• 3/4 cup ketchup
• 1/2 cup canned plum tomatoes
• 1 tablespoon honey
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
  

METHOD:

1. Heat the oil in a medium saucepan. Add the onion and cook over moderate heat, stirring until browned, about 10 minutes.  Add the garlic and cook for 2 minutes, then add the bourbon and simmer for 2 minutes longer.  Stir in the vinegar, sugar, chipotle chilies, mustard, ancho chile powder, bay leaf, clove and allspice and bring to a boil.  Cover and cook over low heat for 30 minutes.
2. Add the chicken stock, ketchup and tomatoes, cover partially and cook over low heat until reduced by half, about 1 hour.  Remove from the heat and let cool.  Discard the bay leaf and transfer the sauce to a blender.  Puree until smooth. For a more velvety texture pass the sauce through a medium-mesh sieve.  Season the sauce with salt and pepper.  Add the honey and taste the sauce again.  Add more honey to taste if you wish to balance out the acidity of the vinegar.  The sauce can be refrigerated for up to 1 week.

Makes about 2 cups

When it comes to fast food guilty pleasures, for me, a good spicy chicken sandwich ranks near the top.  Having eaten my fair share from just about every fast food chain out there while I was in high school, I consider myself to be a bit of a connoisseur when it comes to the crispy, neon-orange chicken pucks of the world.  I know, I know, that crap is not only horrible for you, but also made from ingredients we’d all rather not know about.  That’s precisely why I set out to recreate this drive-thru favorite at home.  Think of it as a slow food take on a fast food classic.

Made with organic, boneless-skinless breasts, a spicy buttermilk marinade and fiery Cajun seasoning blend, the flavor of this scratch-made rendition easily outranks that of its greasy, artificial cousin.  When combined with ripe tomato slices, crisp lettuce and creamy mayonnaise on a homemade sesame seed bun, you have a fried chicken sandwich good enough to get excited about without the guilt of processed, chain food.

It might not be the healthiest sandwich out there, but like mozzarella sticks, you’ll feel better knowing its homemade.

SPICY FRIED CHICKEN SANDWICH

Soaking the chicken overnight in a spicy buttermilk marinade not only adds great heat but also helps tenderize the chicken.  If you don’t have self-rising flour on hand, make your own by combining 1 cup of all-purpose flour with 1 1/2 teaspoons of salt and 1 1/2 teaspoons of baking powder.  I’ve included a recipe for the Cajun seasoning I make at home, but any store-bought brand will work just as well here.  I like the simplicity of a great slice of tomato, fresh lettuce and mayonnaise on this sandwich, but you could just as easily top this chicken with melted cheese, refreshing coleslaw or even substitute the mayo for some ranch dressing.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 boneless skinless chicken breasts, sliced horizontally into 4 thin cutlets
• 1 cup buttermilk
• 1-2 teaspoons cayenne pepper
• Cajun seasoning for dusting (recipe follows)
• 1 cup self-rising flour
• 1 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
• 2 eggs
• 2 teaspoons hot sauce
• Canola or vegetable for frying
• 4 sesame seed hamburger buns
• Mayonnaise for spreading
  
• 4 leaves of butter or leaf lettuce
• Tomato slices for garnish

METHOD:

1. Pour the buttermilk into a bowl and whisk in the cayenne pepper.  Add the chicken cutlets to the buttermilk mix and marinate them overnight in the refrigerator.
2. Take the chicken out of the refrigerator at least 30 minutes before frying.  In a shallow bowl, lightly beat the eggs with the hot sauce and set aside.  Pour the flour onto a clean plate and stir in the coarsely ground black pepper and set aside.
   
3. Drain the chicken cutlets from the buttermilk marinade and place on a clean plate. Sprinkle both sides of each cutlet heavily with Cajun seasoning before dunking it in the egg mixture.  Quickly dredge the seasoned chicken in the flour-pepper mixture, making sure to shake off any excess.  Place on a clean plate and repeat with remaining chicken.
   
4. Pour oil to a depth of 2” into a 4-qt. heavy-bottom pot and heat over medium-high heat until the temperature registers 325° on a candy thermometer.  Working 2 pieces of chicken at a time, carefully submerge them in the hot oil and fry until crispy and golden brown, about 4-5 minutes per batch.  Remove the fried chicken cutlets to a plate lined with paper towels and repeat with the remaining chicken.  Keep first batch of chicken warm in a low, 200° oven.
   
5. Spread each half of the hamburger buns with mayonnaise (or ranch dressing) and top with a fried chicken cutlet, lettuce and tomato.  Serve immediately.

Makes 4 sandwiches

CAJUN SEASONING

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 tablespoon paprika
• 1 1/2 teaspoons table salt
• 1 1/2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
• 1 teaspoon garlic powder
• 1 teaspoon onion powder
• 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
• 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

METHOD:

1. Stir to combine all the ingredients in a small bowl.
   
2. Store in an airtight jar.  Use on fish, chicken and pork.
   

Once in a while I come across a dish so spectacular, so original that I can’t shake the flavor from my tastebuds. Such was the case when I tasted Pok Pok’s famous Fish Sauce Wings on a trip north to visit my sister and brother-in-law in Portland, Oregon. While I was warned beforehand about how delicious the iconic wings were, it wasn’t until after we finished our meal that I came to understand the seriousness of their claims — I was addicted. Simultaneously crispy and sticky, sweet and salty, these delectable wings pack more rich, umami flavor into each bite than most Vietnamese restaurants do in an entire meal.

As is usually the case when I have something amazing at a restaurant, I decided that I had to try to make them on my own. The problem, of course, was that I had no idea how to go about doing so. And then, Pok Pok was featured in an article in Food & Wine. It was like fate, only the recipe I was looking for was no where to be seen. Real disappointment set in. My sister had moved away from Portland, and it was starting to feel like I would never taste those salty wings again. Until Diners, Drive-ins and Dives decided to make a visit to the restaurant. As luck would have it, they decided to film Andy, the owner, whipping up a batch of their wings. To get the technique down, I re-watched the clip multiple times, and then I got to work.

Ironically, the recipe I’ve adapted here is actually from Food & Wine online and came up when I searched “Pok Pok wings,” though I don’t know which issue they originally appeared in. Applying the flavors listed with the method I gleaned from “Triple D,” I was able to come up with a fairly authentic composite. The wings were crispy and sticky, salty and sweet–the fix I’d been searching for for over a year. One craving satisfied, now onto the next. . .

FISH SAUCE CHICKEN WINGS

Adapted from Andy Ricker’s recipe for Ike’s Vietnamese Fish Sauce Wings, Food & Wine Magazine

When frying anything in batches, it’s important to allow the heat of the oil to rebound to its original temperature for consistent and efficient cooking. While these wings taste great as is, the addition of crispy fried garlic at the end add another dimension of flavor. Simply fry another two cloves of minced garlic in a couple of tablespoons of oil until golden and drain on paper towels before adding during the final toss with the caramel.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1/2 cup Thai or Vietnamese fish sauce
• 1/2 cup superfine sugar
• 2 large cloves garlic, minced
• 3 pounds chicken wings, split at the joint
• Vegetable oil for frying
• 1 cup rice flour or corn starch
  
• 1-2 tablespoons chili garlic sauce (such as Huy Fong brand)
• 1 tablespoon chopped cilantro and/or mint for garnish

METHOD:

1. In a small bowl, add 2 cloves of the minced garlic and sprinkle with a pinch of salt. Massage the salt into the garlic to begin to extract its oils. Dilute with 1/4 cup of water and allow to sit for 5 minutes. Strain the garlic mixture through cheesecloth into a clean bowl, squeezing to extract as much flavor as possible.
2. In another bowl, prepare the marinade by whisking together the liquid garlic extract, fish sauce and superfine sugar. Add the chicken and the marinade to a resealable zip-top bag and place in the refrigerator overnight. Make sure to toss the wings occasionally to evenly distribute the marinade.
3. Preheat the oven to 200°. In a large heavy bottomed pot and using a deep-fry thermometer, heat 2 inches of oil to 350°. Remove the wings from their marinade and pat dry on paper towels; reserve the marinade.
   
4. In a medium bowl, lightly dredge each wing in a coating of the rice flour, making sure to pat off any excess. Fry the wings in batches until golden and cooked through, about 7-10 minutes. With frying subsequent batches, remove the wings to a baking sheet lined with a wire rack and place in the oven to stay warm.
5. Meanwhile, make the wing caramel by adding the reserved marinade to a medium skillet over medium-high heat. When mixture begin to bubble, add chili garlic paste to the pan and continue to cook until reduced to a syrupy consistency. Add the fried wings to the caramel and toss to coat. Glaze the wings by adding a small splash of water to the pan to collect the caramelized bits. Remove to a platter and garnish with chopped cilantro and/or mint.
   

Serves 6

It may not be in my best interest to admit this, but here goes nothing: grilling chicken scares me. It’s just too easy to get wrong. Black, cremated skin on the outside with an interior so pink that just looking at it might give you salmonella. Or worse, well-cooked flesh with skin so flabby that it can be removed in a single piece. I think this is why I am especially in awe of Vietnamese chefs.  I’m not exactly sure how they do it, but somehow they’re able to keep their grilled chicken juicy and moist  inside, but with a crisp exterior reminiscent of deep-fried chicken skin.  While I’ve yet to master this elusive technique, with this fairly simple preparation the delicious results were worth the potential for failure.

A great alternative to the standard barbecue chicken, this recipe relies on the exotic flavor of Chinese five-spice powder.  Usually a mix of star anise, fennel, cinnamon, cloves and Szechwan peppercorns, the blend lends a sweet and subtly spicy flavor to the dish along with an especially heady aroma.  While its great fresh off the grill, this stuff is just as addictive cold from the fridge or at room temperature for a picnic.

VIETNAMESE-STYLE GRILLED FIVE-SPICE CHICKEN

Adapted from William Sonoma’s, San Francisco: Authentic Recipes Celebrating the Foods of the World

If you’ve ever tried to grill chicken before, you know that it can be tricky due to the fact that chicken fat tends to burn easily.  Couple this with a marinade that contains sugar and you have the perfect formula for chicken that is burnt on the outside and raw in the middle.  Watch your chicken carefully while grilling and move the pieces to a cool part of the grill if flare-ups occur.  If your chicken browns too quickly, don’t be afraid to finish cooking it in a medium oven until the juices run clear when poked with a knife.

INGREDIENTS:

• 6 cloves of garlic, sliced
  
• 1 large shallot, coarsely chopped
• 1 tablespoon, peeled and minced fresh ginger
• 4 teaspoons sugar
• 1/4 cup soy sauce
• 1/4 cup fish sauce
• 1/2 teaspoon five-spice powder
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1 chicken (about 3 lbs) cut into eight servings

METHOD:

1. In a mortar and pestle or small food processor combine the ginger, shallot, garlic and sugar and smash to form a paste.
2. Create a marinade by transferring the paste to a small bowl and whisking in the soy sauce, fish sauce, five-spice powder and a healthy dose of pepper.
3. Rinse the chicken pieces in cold water and pat dry.  Place the chicken in a large, resealable zip-top bag and pour in the marinade.  Toss the chicken inside the bag to cover evenly with the marinade and refrigerate for 12 hours or as long as overnight.
4. Prepare a charcoal or gas grill for direct grilling over medium heat.  Remove the chickens from the bag and reserve the marinade in a small bowl.
5. Place the chicken pieces skin side down on the grill directly over the heat until the first side is nicely browned, about 11-12 minutes.  Baste once or twice with the reserved marinade during the first stage of grilling.  Turn, baste again and grill until the chicken reaches the internal temperature of 165°, about11-12 minutes longer.  Do not baste chicken during the final 10 minutes.
6. Remove the chicken from the grill and let rest for at least 5 minutes before serving.

Makes 4 servings

My girlfriend and I made a trip to Marin Sun Farms just south of the West Marin town of Point Reyes and found that they were having a special on chicken. With the intention of taking advantage of discounted, pasture-raised, healthy chicken, we decided to grab a few pounds of thighs and legs.  While we debated about several complex recipes  on the car ride home, it was a simple and resourceful recipe from Nigel Slater’s, Real Food that ultimately, won us over.

With rapidly wilting basil in the refrigerator and a couple of extra chiles on hand, this satisfying dish came together in minutes and offered the comfort of traditional pan-roasted chicken, but with the refreshing zip of chiles, wine and lemon to cut through the delicious rendered fat. While we ended up eating ours with rice, Slater recommends serving the chicken among a bed of a few green salad leaves “to mop up the sticky, aromatic pan juices from the plate.” A nice baguette might also do the trick.

ROAST CHICKEN WITH BASIL, CHILI, AND LEMON

Adapted from Nigel Slater’s, Real Food

Make sure to find a pan that will just accommodate the chicken and lemon halves during roasting as this will help the contents brown more evenly and prevent against burning. Also, don’t be afraid to throw the pan under the broiler at the end of cooking if the chicken skin isn’t crispy enough.

INGREDIENTS

• 2 bone-in, skin-on chicken legs, separated at the joint
• Salt and freshly cracked black pepper
• Olive oil
• 2 large cloves of garlic
• One fresh red chili, minced
  
• One lemon
• One large handful of basil leaves (about 30 leaves)
• One 5-ounce glass of white wine

METHOD

1. Preheat the oven to 400°.
2. Season the chicken well with salt and pepper and put the pieces in a roasting pan.  Pour over enough olive oil to moisten them and make a shallow pool in the pan.
3. Smash the garlic in its skin, and tuck it in with the chicken along with the minced chili.  Squeeze the lemon over the chicken and drop the empty lemon shells in, too.
4. Roast for thirty minutes, then tear up basil leaves and toss them about with the chicken. Return to the oven for ten minutes.
5. Remove from the oven and pour the wine over the chicken, then place the pan over a hot flame and let the wine bubble for a minute or two before removing from the heat and serving.
   

Serves 2