Every once in a while I’ll spend a Sunday afternoon making some Thai curry paste. Like I mentioned in my recipe for panang curry paste, a quick trip to the Asian market for a few hard to find ingredients and about an hour in the kitchen with your mortar and pestle will set you up for a good month of authentic Thai cooking at home.

As far as I’m concerned, this stuff is money in the bank.  It keeps for a  up to a month in the fridge and is perfect for pulling together a bona fide Thai meal in minutes.  Stir-fry the paste, some meat and a few handfuls of seasonal vegetables in your favorite wok, add in some stock, palm sugar, fish sauce and Thai basil, throw it all on top of some sticky rice and you’ll be set up for some truly delicious eating.

Unlike a red, green or yellow curry, phrik khing is considered a “dry-style” curry, free of any coconut milk.  Instead, the paste is fried in oil and moistened with a bit of stock to create a sauce that clings to the protein and veggies.  The resulting dish can be characterized as smooth and a bit peppery with fragrant notes of galangal and lemongrass throughout.

So, next time you’re looking for something to cook on a lazy Sunday afternoon, consider making some homemade curry paste and look forward to reaping the rich culinary dividends of delicious Thai meals in the weeks that follow.

PHRIK KHING CURRY PASTE

From True Thai: The Modern Art of Thai Cooking

Do yourself a favor and get your mise en place in order before setting out to make this paste.  Soak your chiles, wrap your shrimp paste in foil, zest your limes and peel your shallots and you’ll be able to pull the paste together in and efficient, organized fashion.  The guajillo chiles used here are mild and fruity, so if you’re looking for a paste with a bit more heat, feel free to add in some fresh or dried Thai chiles to the mix.  This recipe calls for the use of a mortar and pestle as well as food processor, but you can certainly get away with just using one or the other.  Store it in the fridge for about a month and in the freezer for up to three.

INGREDIENTS:

• 6 large dried Guajillo chilies
• 1 teaspoon shrimp paste, wrapped neatly in a double layer of aluminum foil
• 1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 tablespoon minced fresh Kaffir lime peel or domestic lime peel
• 1 large stalk lemongrass, outer leaves discarded, lower stalk trimmed to 3 inches and finely sliced
• 1 1/2 teaspoons finely chopped, peeled fresh galangal, or common ginger
• 1/4 cup chopped garlic
• 1/2 cup shallots

METHOD:

1. Stem the chilies and shake out most of the seeds. Cut the chilies in half lengthwise and remove any tough, dried ribs. Cut them crosswise into 3/4-inch pieces and put in a bowl. Cover with water and soak for 30 minutes. Set a small skillet on medium heat. Place the foil-wrapped shrimp paste in the skilled and cook for about 5 minutes, until aromatic, turning the packet over once or twice. Remove the packet from the skillet and set aside to cool.
2. Put the peppercorns in a large, heavy mortar and grind them to a powder. Transfer ground pepper to the bowl of a food processor. Add the salt.
3. Combine the minced lime peel, lemongrass and ginger in the mortar and pound for a minute to break down the fibers. Pound the garlic and shallots in the mortar just until crushed and transfer to the food processor. Unwrap the shrimp paste and add it to the food processor. Drain the chilies, reserving about 1/2 cup of the soaking liquid. Add the chilies to the food processor.
4. Process the ingredients until a rich, moist paste forms, stopping occasionally to scrape down the sides of the work bowl. Add a few tablespoons of the chili-soaking liquid now and then, if needed to ease the grinding.

Makes about 1 1/2 cups

If you celebrate Cinco de Mayo the way folks around here do, you’re going to need some serious grub to soak up the booze. The following recipes will not only satisfy any Mexican cravings, they’ll also lay down a base coat before your night gets going. Best of all? They can pretty much all be scaled up to feed a crowd. So enjoy responsibly and leave other Cinco de Mayo menu ideas in the comments.

TACOS, TOSTADAS, APPETIZERS

Tacos de Barbacoa

Chile-Braised Pork Tacos

Tacos de Cochinita Pibil

Red Chile Beef Tostadas

Taquitos

SALSAS & DIPS

Avocado-Tomatillo Salsa

Guacamole

Habanero Hot Sauce

Chipotle Bean Dip

Crema Mexicana

ON THE SIDE

Smoky Chipotle Black Beans

NICE & REFRESHING

Agua de Horchata

If you are looking for a jalapeño popper that looks like this, then sadly, this recipe is not for you.  If, however, you are a popper purist looking for the authentic, crispy-fried variety, then you have come to the right place.

I’ve been looking for a good jalapeño popper recipe for some time now, and, after several failed attempts to find anything I could truly be proud of, I’ve finally cobbled together a version that lives up to the high bar set by frozen versions sold in bars around the country.  I tried everything: versions with fresh jalapeños, versions with cream cheese, fine breadcrumbs and egg batters.  These same iterations, were either raw, greasy or simply exploded in the frying oil. My winning version utilizes a combination of quality pickled jalapenos, a combo of cheddar and jack cheese, hot sauce and a buttermilk/panko batter.  Served alongside some buttermilk dip, and you have a appetizer that has few equals in the fabulous world of fried food.

JALAPEÑO POPPERS

Making poppers from scratch can be a bit of a time consuming process.  See if you can enlist the help of a friend to get a popper assembly line going.  The execution is quite simple: simply seed and devein the chiles, stuff them with shredded cheese, batter, freeze and fry.   When it comes to packing the jalapenos with cheese, it’s okay if they are not completely sealed.  They should still have a crispy, well-sealed crust after frying due to the double dipping procedure.  Look for the best quality canned jalapeños you can find.  I like El Mexicano or La Morena brands for this type of application.  If you want to get a little more gourmet with it, feel free to add an herbed cream or goat cheese and stuff them with crumbled bacon.

INGREDIENTS:

• 12 pickled jalapeños, preferably with stems left intact
• 3 ounces coarsely grated Cheddar (1 cup)
• 3 ounces coarsely grated Monterey Jack (1 cup)
• 1 teaspoon hot sauce
• 1 cup buttermilk
• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 2 cups panko bread crumbs
• 2 teaspoons dried oregano
• Canola or vegetable oil for frying

METHOD:

1. Cut a lengthwise slit from stem to bottom of each chile. Make a crosswise incision at stem end, forming a T.
2. Pry open each chile as if it was a book to expose the ribs and seeds, then devein and seed using the tip of a paring knife to scrape the inside clean.
3. Stir together cheeses, hot sauce, 1/4 teaspoon pepper, and 3/4 teaspoon salt.
4. Fill/pack the chiles with cheese mixture, pressing seams closed after filling, so that cheese is compacted and chile retains its shape.
5. Stir together bread crumbs, oregano, and 1/4 teaspoon each of salt and pepper in another shallow bowl.
6. Pour the buttermilk into a high sided bowl or drinking glass.  Working one at a time, roll the chiles in flour until uniformly covered shaking off any excess. Dip the chiles in the buttermilk, letting excess drip off, then coat with  the bread crumbs. Repeat coating with buttermilk and panko to form a second layer.  Transfer to a parchment lined baking sheet and repeat with the remaining chiles.  Once all of the chiles have been coated, place the baking sheet in the freezer until frozen through.
7. Heat 2 inches oil to 325°F in a medium saucepan. Fry chiles in 3 batches, stirring occasionally, until golden brown all over, 5 to 6 minutes per batch. Transfer to several layers of paper towels to drain. Return oil to 325°F between batches.

Makes One Dozen Poppers

Throw grated cheddar cheese, sour cream, sliced green onions, and cilantro over a bowl of Stagg Chili and you have a satisfying bowl of chili.  Throw those same condiments over a warm bowl of this hearty lamb and chorizo chili, and you have an epic winter meal.  But I’ll warn you, this chili isn’t for the faint of heart.  This is some rich, earthy fare the likes of which are seldom explored by the typical American diner.  In my mind, I believe this is chili the way chili was always meant to taste.

Thick, heavily spiced and slightly gamey, this is cold weather, stick-to-your-ribs food at it best, making it not only great for the winter season, but also perfect Super Bowl grub if you’re looking to feed a group with a big appetite. I’d go so far as to call this real man food, if my girlfriend weren’t so quick to remind me that women love chili, too.

Garnishes are key here; they lighten the rich flavors while enhancing the chili’s meatiness, so set out a spread of shredded cheese, chopped onion, cilantro and sour cream and let your guests go nuts.

LAMB AND CHORIZO CHILI

Adapted from Bon Appétit

Use fresh, Mexican chorizo  and not the dry-cured Spanish variety in this recipe.  After sautéing and draining the chorizo, be sure to return the fat (drippings) to the pan from the top of any juices that might have collected.  This flavorful, bright red fat will be the medium in which you will fry your aromatics.  This chili can be made as far as three days in advance of service and will definitely benefit from an overnight “curing” in the refrigerator after it’s been simmered.  When reheating, place the chili in a medium saucepan and bring back to a bare simmer, covered, and stirring often over low heat.  Adjust with more stock or water if the chili seems dry and check again for seasoning. In fact, because not all chorizo sausage is seasoned the same way, taste throughout the cooking process and tailor the chili to your own taste.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 1/4 cups chicken broth
• 3 ounces dried ancho chilies (about 5 large), stemmed, seeded, torn into pieces
• 1 tsp. cayenne pepper
• 1 1/2 lbs pork chroizo, casings removed
• 2 cups red onion, coarsely chopped
• 10 large garlic cloves, chopped
• 1 tablespoon dried oregano
• 1 tablespoon cumin
• 1 1/2 lbs ground lamb
• 1 can (15-ounces) canned pinto beans, rinsed and drained
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• Grated cheddar or jack cheese
• Thinly sliced green onions
• Sour cream or Mexican crema
• Cilantro leaves
• Pickled jalapenos, diced

METHOD:

1. Combine first three ingredients in a medium saucepan. Cover and simmer over medium heat until chilies soften, about 12 minutes. Puree mixture in a blender, in batches if need be.  Strain the chile mixture through a fine mesh sieve, pressing on the solids, and set aside.
2. Meanwhile, cook chorizo in a large pot over medium-high heat until drippings come to a simmer. Transfer to a strainer set over a bowl and let drain for 10 minutes.
3. Return 1/4 cup of the chorizo drippings to the same pot and heat over medium-high heat. Add the onion, garlic, oregano and cumin and saute until onions begin to soften, about 5 minutes.
4. Sprinkle lamb with salt and pepper and add to the pot. Sauté just until the lamb is no longer pink on the outside. Add chili puree and drained chorizo. Bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat to a simmer and allow to cook for 1 hour.
5. Add drained pinto beans and simmer uncovered until liquid thickens, about 15 minutes. Season well with salt and pepper to taste. Serve with grated cheddar, sour cream, green onions, cilantro and diced pickled jalapenos as desired.

Makes 6 to 8 servings, depending on the appetite of your crowd

NFL Football playoffs start this weekend and that means it’s time to bust out the heavy hitting game day recipes.  We’ve got wings, mozzarella sticks, and potato skins covered, but I thought it was high time to break out a recipe for a good old-fashioned American dip — Bean Dip.

I know, I know, bean dip sounds boring.  Surely guacamole and salsa seem to steal the show anytime tortilla chips are broken out, but I assure you, this is no ordinary jarred bean dip.  First off, we’re making our own pinto beans.  That’s right, from the very get-go this is a homemade affair which means you can load as much flavor into this seemingly humble dip as possible.  Slow simmered with smoked pork, cumin seeds, oregano, onion and garlic there is no canned pinto bean on earth that can match that flavor.  Next off, we add spicy chipotle chiles for maximum punch and savory, smoky undertones.  After a dollop of two of sour cream to cool everything down and lend a velvety texture, the whole thing is topped with cheese and thrown into the oven until piping hot and gooey.

I promise, you’ve never tasted bean dip this good.  It’s fantastic served alongside some thick, crispy tortilla chips and dare I say, even better with Fritos Scoops. But if you’re feeling truly badass, try using it as the backbone for a homemade 7-layer dip and taste the rainbow of game day paradise.

CHIPOTLE BEAN DIP

Adapted from The Feast of Santa Fe: Cooking from the American Southwest, Huntley Dent

For this recipe, I wholeheartedly recommend that you cook your pinto beans from scratch.  Not only will you infuse them with outstanding flavor in the process, but the flavorful broth that remains is essential for reaching the perfect bean dip consistency.  If you are strapped for time, don’t feel too bad about using canned beans — you’ll still have one damn good dip.  Here I recommend using anywhere between 2-4 chipotle chiles, but you should also feel free to add more or less depending on your tolerance for heat.  The texture of the final dip is of the utmost importance.  Start out by adding about 1/4-1/3 cup of the bean liquid and adjust to your desired consistency from there.  Cheese can be blended into the dip if desired or simply sprinkled on top before baking.  The dip can be eaten at room temperature, but it tastes its best when warm.  Finally, you can assemble the bean dip ahead of time (allow time for longer heating in the oven if it is straight from the refrigerator), just be sure to press the plastic wrap down onto the surface of the dip to avoid the development of a crusty skin.

INGREDIENTS:

For the Beans:

• 1 cup dried pinto beans, soaked overnight and drained
• 1/2 onion, whole or coarsely chopped
• 2 cloves of garlic, coarsely chopped
• 2 slices bacon, coarsely chopped
• 1/2 teaspoon whole cumin seeds
• 1/4 teaspoon cracked black pepper
• 1/4 teaspoon oregano
• 1 bay leaf
• Water to cover

For the Chipotle Bean Dip:

• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1/2 onion, diced
• 2 cups pinto beans with 1/2 cup reserved cooking liquid (see above)
• 1/4 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
• 2-4 canned chipotles in adobo
• 1/4 cup sour cream
• 1 teaspoon Kosher salt, plus more to taste
• 1/3 cup cheddar or jack cheese, grated
• 1 tablespoons chopped cilantro (optional)
• Tortilla chips for serving

METHOD:

1. Make the beans: Put the beans in a pot along with all of the remaining ingredients and cover everything with water by 2-inches.  Bring the pot to a boil over high heat and then turn the heat down and cook at a steady simmer for about 1 1/2 hours, or until the beans are very tender.  Be sure to stir the beans occasionally to ensure even cooking along the way and skim off any foam that rises to the surface.
2. Drain the beans of their cooking liquid, making sure to reserve at least 1/2 cup of their flavorful broth.  Remove the pieces of bacon (you can use some of them in the dip if you want) and discard the bay leaf.  Set the beans aside to cool.
3. Make the Chipotle Bean Dip: Preheat the oven to 375°. Heat the olive oil in a small skillet set over medium-low heat.  When the oil is hot, add the onions, cover the pan and allow them to sweat for 5 minutes or so.  Remove the cover and raise the heat to medium.  Fry the onions, stirring often until they are well-browned, about 8 minutes.  Remove the pan from heat and allow the onions to cool a bit.
4. In the bowl of an electric food processor, combine the beans, the onions and their oil, chipotle chiles, cracked black pepper, sour cream and salt.  Add in about 1/3 cup of the reserved cooking liquid at first to aid in the processing of the ingredients (you can add more later to reach your desired consistency) and process until a slightly coarse puree is reached (you do not want the mixture completely smooth).  Taste for salt and pepper and adjust as needed.  Add more bean liquid or sour cream if a thinner or creamier texture is desired.
5. Transfer the bean mixture from the bowl of the food processor to a small, ovenproof baking dish.  Sprinkle on the cheese and cover the baking dish with aluminum foil. Place the dip in the oven and cook until warm throughout and the cheese is melted, about 15 minutes.  If a bubbly crust is desired, remove the tin foil during the last few minutes of baking and turn on the broiler to high until lightly browned.  Garnish with chopped cilantro and serve immediately with crispy tortilla chips.

Makes about 2 1/2 cups

You’d never know it, but just off of Highway 1, in the sleepy Sonoma Coast town of Gualala, there lives an authentic gem of a taquería the likes of which are seldom found in the heart of a big city.  Tucked into the corner of the ever-depressing Sundstrom Mall and flanked by a glowing bakery case packed with a plethora of sub-par pastries you’ll find, Gualala Pizza & Bakery.  Try not to let the name fool you — or the locals for that matter (they’ll be the ones inexplicably munching away on pizza and burgers), it’s the Mexican food you’re here for, and man is it ever good!  We’re talking handmade corn tortillas, carnitas-packed gorditas, delectable barbacoa burritos and my personal favorite: Baja-style, beer-battered salmon tacos.  Everything is fresh, delicious and affordable, but for me, it’s their “complimentary” avocado-tomatillo salsa that has me coming back to this place.

Slathered on tacos or used as a dip for their fried-to-order tortilla chips, this sauce is good on anything.  I was beginning to think that I was the only one who had an unhealthy relationship with this spicy green salsa, that is, until a family member stepped forward to shed light on their own addiction.  My sister confessed to regularly smuggling out a few extra containers to use at home for her own culinary concoctions.  It may be paranoia, but I think they might have caught-on to our little scheme because they no longer set out those little plastic cups.  So, suffering from severe withdrawal, I finally set out to whip up a batch myself.

It took patience and careful planning, but by asking the ladies behind the counter a few well-positioned questions scattered over the course of a couple of visits, I was able to deduce that it consisted of canned (not fresh) tomatillos as its base with ripe avocado accounting for its creamy texture.  With only a handful of obvious ingredients (lime, chiles, garlic) making up the remainder of the mix, I played around with several brands of tomatillos and searched for the perfect ratio of avocado.  In the end, I think I got something that’s pretty close.  My cravings have been dealt with for now, but it’s only a matter of time before I get a hankering for one of those unbeatable fish tacos.

AVOCADO-TOMATILLO SALSA

This is one of those salsas that is extremely easy to adjust to personal taste, so don’t be afraid to add more or less of any of the suggested ingredients.  I personally love a biting, fiery sauce so I choose to use a minimum of 2 serrano chiles when making my batches.  If you prefer a salsa more akin to traditional guacamole, feel free to use an entire avocado instead of the half for an even creamier texture.  I only like to use a little garlic when making this condiment as adding too much can quickly overwhelm the other flavors.  This is also one of the rare instances where I choose to forgo the use of cilantro, as it’s addition tends to detract from the brightness of the canned tomatillos.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 12-ounce can, drained, whole tomatillos
• 1/2 large ripe avocado, roughly chopped
• 1 small clove of garlic, roughly chopped
• Juice of 1/2 a large lime
• 1-2 medium serrano chiles, roughly chopped
• 3/4 teaspoon Kosher salt

METHOD:

1. Place all of the ingredients into the bowl of a food processor and process until the components are well-incorporated into a smooth sauce, about 30-40 seconds.

Makes about 1 1/2 cups

Mac and cheese recipes are a dime a dozen on the net.  If you have a food blog and are even remotely tolerant of dairy, odds are you’ve posted a favorite recipe or unique rendition.  From bacon and blue cheese to truffles and lobster, there are countless offerings out there that claim to offer the ultimate mac and cheese experience. Whether it’s topped with breadcrumbs and baked in the oven or fresh from the stove top, oozing with a gooey melted cheese sauce, I’ve never met a version I haven’t liked.  That being said, in my mind one version stands out among the rest as a truly extraordinary and distinctive twist on the original: green chile mac and cheese.

I first had green chile mac and cheese on a trip to Scottsdale, Arizona for Spring Training with my Dad where we dined at chef Robert McGrath’s flagship, Roaring Fork restaurant.  After amazing, back-to-back dinners we decided to buy the cookbook and attempt to replicate his signature riff on the comfort classic.  Needless to say, the results were a near perfect match.  Simple to prepare, this dish gets it’s deep, smoky flavor from the addition of a puree of roasted poblano chiles.  Add in some heavy cream, a confetti of red bell pepper, sweet corn kernels and a healthy dose of piquant pepper jack cheese and you have a mac and cheese dish worthy of a little excitement.

GREEN CHILE MAC & CHEESE

Adapted from American Western Cooking from the Roaring Fork, by Robert McGrath

Once you have the prep work out of the way, this recipe comes together very quickly.  For instructions on how to roast, peel and puree chiles, check out my recipe for New Mexico Green Chile with Pork. To make this recipe at a moments notice, do what I do and roast extra poblanos to keep on hand in your freezer. Cook the macaroni in a large pot of well-salted, boiling water until al dente.  I like to rinse the pasta under cold running water to halt the cooking process in an effort to maintain as much texture as possible.  This recipe can be doubled very easily and makes a great potluck dish for a large, hungry group of people.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
• 1/4 cup poblano chile, finely diced
• 1/4 cup red bell pepper, finely diced
• 1/4 cup red onion, finely diced
• 1 tablespoon minced garlic
• 1/2 cup sweet corn kernels
• 2 cups cooked elbow macaroni
• 1/2 cup roasted, peeled, and pureed poblano chile
• 3/4 cup heavy cream
• 1/2 cup, grated hot pepper jack cheese
• Kosher salt and cracked black pepper to taste

METHOD:

1. Heat the vegetable oil in a large skillet over high heat.  Add the diced poblano chile, red bell pepper, red onion and garlic and sauté until just tender, about 5 minutes.
2. Add the corn kernels and sauté briefly.
3. Lower the heat to medium and add the macaroni, poblano puree, cream and pepper jack cheese.  Stir gently until the ingredients are thoroughly combined and the cheese is melted.
4. Season to taste with kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper.  Transfer to a medium bowl and serve immediately.

Serves 4 as a side

Ah, the good ol’ days: when spending 30 bucks on Thai takeout was just your typical Wednesday night. Now, income-less, Thai food along with Chinese and pizza seems like quite the luxury. These days I’m making my own Thai food, and to be honest, not missing a thing.  At home, I make Thai food the way I like it.  Very spicy, fairly salty and just a little sweet. Such is the beauty of having curry pastes sitting in your freezer ready at your disposal.  What seems like an exotic and esoteric cuisine on the surface is actually fairly simple to prepare at home.

I like to think of panang as a great beginner curry for those that are new to Thai cuisine.  Reminiscent of everybody’s favorite peanut dipping sauce which accompanies the ubiquitous satay, panang is at once both bright and aromatic while at the same time, rich and comforting.

I’m lucky enough to live in San Francisco where I can find pretty much anything I need at any of the many Asian markets.  However, if you love Thai food and can’t find a store that stocks such items as palm sugar, lime leaves, or good Thai coconut milk, check out www.importfood.com for everything you need (and then some).

PANANG BEEF CURRY

Once you have the hard part of making the paste out of the way, this curry comes together quite quickly.  Make sure to use a good, full-fat brand of coconut milk when making this dish.  The thick cream that settles at the top of each can is rich in oil and acts as the perfect stir-frying medium to bloom the curry paste’s aroma and flavors.  Many panang recipes call for the addition of ground peanuts instead of peanut butter.  Either makes a fine choice, but I love the velvety texture that comes from using the stuff in jars.  Finally, adjust the final seasoning to your own tastes.  Some people like their curry sweeter or saltier than others, so feel free to add more fish sauce or palm sugar along the way to fit your own palate.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 19 fl. oz can Thai coconut milk (I use Mae Ploy brand)
• 4-5 tablespoons homemade Panang curry paste
• 1 lb. beef cross rib roast, sliced 2 x 1/4 inch thick
• 3-4 tablespoons fish sauce
• 2 tablespoons palm sugar
• 2 tablespoons all-natural peanut butter (smooth or crunchy)
• 1/2 cup water
• 4-6 Thai chilies, split lengthwise
• 2-3 limes leaves cut into a chiffonade for garnish
• Lime wedges for garnish

METHOD:

1. Skim the thick cream from the top of the can of coconut milk into a large saucepan, reserving the watery milk.  Set the saucepan over medium-high heat and stir the cream vigorously until the glossy oil surfaces.
2. Add the curry paste and continue to stir vigorously until fragrant and a red oil surfaces, about 2 minutes.
3. Add in the sliced beef and stir to coat well with the curry mixture.  Add in the remaining coconut milk, fish sauce, palm sugar, peanut butter, water and chilies.  Stir to dissolve the the peanut butter and palm sugar and simmer over low heat for one hour, or until the curry has reduced into a thick sauce and the beef is very tender.
4. Taste the curry for for salt and sweetness.  If it needs more salt, add a few more dashes of fish sauce, if it needs to be sweeter, add more palm sugar.
5. Transfer the curry to a serving bowl and garnish with the lime leaf chiffonade.  Serve with lime wedges.

Serves 4

Maybe I watched too many episodes of The Naked Chef when I was younger, but in my mind, there are few kitchen activities more satisfying than giving a handful of aromatic herbs and spices a good pounding in a large, heavy mortar. Handmade pesto is great and whole-toasted spices don’t last a second in the bowl of a nice granite model, but for me, it’s in the act of making Thai curry paste that Iget the most out of one of my simplest kitchen tools.

Making curry paste the authentic way is a tactile and fragrant experience. In fact, things oftentimes get so aromatic that Lauren practically has to lock herself in our bedroom to avoid the pungent odor of toasted shrimp paste – an essential component of true Thai curry. Here I’ve included a recipe for a paste to create one of my all-time favorite curries: panang. Citrus notes dominate due to the heavy use of lime zest, lime leaves, coriander seeds and lemongrass.

While some of the key ingredients might be hard to track down and the overall process requires a fair amount of prep, as Victor Sodsook points out in his cookbook, True Thai: The Modern Art of Thai Cooking, curry pastes are “like money in the bank.” An hour of hard work will pay off with intense, complex flavor in future dishes. Couple this with the fact that many pastes last weeks in the refrigerator and several months in the freezer, and you have a culinary resource that lends completed dishes a taste that will seem like it’s taken hours to build.

Check back tomorrow for recipe that puts this amazing paste to good use; Panang Beef Curry.

PANANG CURRY PASTE

From True Thai: The Modern Art of Thai Cooking by Victor Sodsook

This recipe employs the use of both a mortar and pestle as well as a food processor in the assembly of the curry paste. The mortar breaks down the tough fibers of the lemongrass, galangal and lime leaves, releasing valuable oils and aromas that would be lost if the food processor was used exclusively. If you’ve never used shrimp paste before, be warned, it’s pretty pungent stuff. I like to finely slice or scrape the shrimp paste from it’s container or block and then pack it into a tablespoon measurement for accurate proportioning.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 package (3 ounces) dried red New Mexico chilies
• 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon whole coriander seed
• 2 tablespoons shrimp paste wrapped neatly in a double layer of aluminum foil
• Zest of 2 fresh Kaffir limes or 1 small domestic lime
• 10 (5 pairs) fresh Kaffir lime leaves or 1/2 teaspoon grated lime zest
• 2 1/2 tablespoons chopped cilantro, including stems
• 1 large stalk lemon grass, tough outer leaves discarded, lower stalk trimmed to 3 inches and finely sliced
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped, peeled galangal or common ginger
• 1/3 cup roughly chopped garlic
• 1/3 cup roughly chopped shallots

METHOD:

1. Stem the chilies, discarding most of the seeds and removing the dry, tough ribs. Cut or tear the chilies into 1-inch pieces and put them in a bowl. Cover the chilies with warm water to cover and let soak for 20-30 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, lightly toast the coriander seeds in a small skillet set over medium heat until aromatic, about 3-5 minutes. Shake the pan frequently to prevent burning. Transfer the toasted coriander to a small bowl to cool and set aside.
3. Set the skillet back over medium heat and add the foil-wrapped shrimp paste. Cook, turning the packed over once or twice until aromatic, about 5 minutes. Remove the packet from the skillet and set aside to cool.
4. Put the toasted coriander in a large, heavy mortar and pestle and grind to a fine powder. Transfer the ground coriander to the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade.
5. If using fresh lime leaves, stack them and cut them into fine slivers with a sharp knife. Combine the lime zest, slivered lime leaves, cilantro, lemongrass, and ginger in the mortar and pound for a minute to break down the fibers. Transfer the crushed mixture to the food processor.
6. Pound the garlic and shallots in the mortar until just crushed and transfer them to the food processor.
7. Unwrap the shrimp paste and add it to the food processor.
8. Drain the chilies from their soaking liquid, reserving about 1/2 cup of the water. Add the chilies to the food processor.
9. Pulse the ingredients to combine, process the mixture until a rich, moist paste forms, stopping occasionally to scrape down the sides of the bowl with a spatula. Add a few tablespoons of the reserved soaking liquid, if needed, to ease the grinding.
10. Store the finished panang curry paste in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 1 month, or in the freezer for up to 3 months.

Makes about 1 2/3 cups.

These lettuce cups might be a little too P.F. Chang’s for some people, but this is a recipe I’ve come back to time and time again for quick, delicious results.  Big on flavor and a cinch to prepare, ginger pork lettuce cups are an amazing start to an Asian-inspired menu and have even taken center stage on more than one dinner occasion.

Here, unctuous ground pork and umami-rich oyster sauce mingle with crunchy water chestnuts and finely diced red bell pepper to create a filling that is as appealing to the eye as it is to the palate. The contrast in texture between the hot, salty filling and the cool, crispy lettuce is a combination that has me coming back to this recipe over and over again.  The best part? Once you have all the necessary ingredients in your pantry, whipping this dish up on a weeknight is as easy as it gets.

GINGER PORK LETTUCE CUPS

Adapted from the August, 2006 issue of Food & Wine Magazine

When making the ginger pork mixture, I like to let it sit out for a few minutes to allow the flavors to marry and the ingredients to come up to room temperature. When stir-frying the pork, it’s important to use as high of heat as your stove will allow.  Be sure to stir the mixture constantly and break up any large lumps.  The goal is to drive away as much moisture from the pork as possible so that it will have a chance to caramelize in the fat.  There is something especially appealing about eating the pork in lettuce leaves but it would also be delicious served over rice.  Minced chicken or turkey would also make fine substitutes for the pork in this dish.

INGREDIENTS:

• 3/4 pound ground pork
• 1  medium red bell pepper, finely diced
• 1 serrano or thai bird chile, finely minced
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 1 tablespoon minced, peeled ginger
• 1 tablespoon Thai sweet chili sauce
• 1 tablespoon fish sauce
• 1 teaspoon sesame oil
• 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon peanut or grapeseed oil
• 1 8-ounce can whole water chestnuts, drained and finely diced
• 2 scallions, thinly sliced
• 2 tablespoons oyster sauce
• 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
• 24 Boston lettuce leaves

METHOD:

1. In a medium bowl, combine the ground pork with the diced red bell pepper, minced chile, garlic, ginger, fish sauce, chile sauce, sesame oil and 1 tablespoon of the peanut or grapeseed oil.  Set the bowl aside and allow the flavors to come together for at least 15 minutes at room temperature.
2. Heat a large skillet or wok over high heat.  Allow the skillet to get screaming hot before adding in the pork.  Stir-fry the mixture over high heat, breaking it up, until the pork is cooked through and beginning to brown, about 8 minutes.  Stir in the oyster sauce, diced water chestnuts, scallions and cilantro and remove from heat.
3. Serve the ginger pork in a bowl along with a stack of the lettuce leaves on a plate.  To eat, spoon some of the ginger pork onto a lettuce leaf, roll up and enjoy.
   

Makes enough for 6 appetizer servings or dinner for two