Summer time means basil, and basil means pesto.  But this isn’t a recipe for pesto -  I make mine different every time – no, this is a recipe that takes pesto and makes it something more, something special.  How do you make pesto, already chock full of robust herbiness and garlic, better? Two words: goat cheese.   Think of this humble sandwich as a stage. If the grilled chicken, marinated in garlic and Italian herbs, is the lead, the pesto goat cheese spread is the supporting role who steals the show.  The chicken we clap for; the spread gets a standing ovation.

Metaphors aside, this is a solid summer sandwich, just right for a weekend lunch or casual weeknight dinner and fairly easy to make, too. Even the harshest critics, are sure to give it rave reviews.

GRILLED CHICKEN SANDWICH WITH PESTO GOAT CHEESE SPREAD

Adapted from Gourmet Magazine

The pesto goat cheese spread in this recipe is seriously delicious stuff.  If you have homemade pesto lying around, then by all means use it in this recipe.  If not, this is what the store-bought variety was meant for.  While it’s great on a sandwich, also consider putting it out as a dip for guests alongside crudités.  If you can’t find ciabatta rolls, use whatever you can find and you’ll still end up eating a killer sandwich.  I suggest butterflying the chicken breasts in this recipe to expedite the cooking time.  If your chicken breasts still seem too large to fit evenly on the roll, wait for the meat to rest and then cut each into slices on a bit of a bias and continue with the recipe. Here I’ve shown a version of this sandwich with roasted red bell peppers, but if that isn’t your thing,  a slice of ripe tomato would also be delicious.  Finally, I like to add a splash of balsamic vinegar on the mixed greens or chicken breast before assembling the sandwich to provide a tart counterbalance to the richness of the pesto goat cheese spread.  I’m sure you’ll find it’s a pleasant, unexpected addition.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 large, bone-skinless chicken breasts
• 1 teaspoon garlic, finely minced
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 3/4 teaspoon Italian seasoning
• Kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper
• 4 ounces soft mild goat cheese, at room temperature
• 2 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature
• 1/4 cup pesto
• 4 slices jarred roasted red peppers, drained well
• 1 1/2 cups mixed greens
• Balsamic vinegar to taste
• 4 ciabatta rolls, split in half

METHOD:

1. Fillet or slice the chicken breasts in half horizontally to produce 4 thin cutlets.  Place the chicken into a medium bowl and add the garlic, olive oil and Italian seasoning.  Season lightly with salt and pepper.  Allow to marinate for at least 1 hour or as long as overnight in the refrigerator.
2. Add the goat cheese, cream cheese and pesto to a food processor and blend until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper and set aside.
3. Prepare a gas or charcoal grill for direct, high-heat grilling.  Drain the chicken cutlets from their marinade and season again with salt and freshly cracked black pepper.  Sear the breasts on each side for about 4 minutes, or until just cooked through, and set aside to allow to rest.  Meanwhile, briefly toast the rolls until warmed through and slightly crisp.
4. Toss the mixed greens with just a touch of balsamic vinegar and begin to assemble the sandwiches by spreading an even layer of the pesto goat cheese mixture on each half of the ciabatta roll followed by one of the rested chicken cutlets, a slice of roasted red bell pepper, and a handful of the balsamic dressed mixed greens.  Top with the other half of the roll and serve warm.

Makes 4 sandwiches

Looking for good falafel in San Francisco can leave one feeling like Goldilocks.  In a town with so few options to choose from, compared to a city like New York, finding real, quality falafel around here can be hit or miss.  Oftentimes too dry, frequently too large and almost always too dense, my misadventures in the quest for the perfect fritter have lead me to create a recipe that produces perfectly light, moist and delicious falafel every time.  In Goldilocks’ words, these are just right.

Dehydrated chickpeas are soaked overnight and ground with onions, parsley and garlic then seasoned with aromatic spices before being fried to a rich, golden brown. Top with a drizzle of garlic and lemon spiked tahini sauce and you have a version that I’d bet rivals some of the best you’ve ever bought.

FALAFEL

I like to use a meat grinder set with the finest disk to process my garbanzo beans.  If you don’t have one yourself, don’t despair, as falafel made in the food processor will be equally delicious.  Whichever route you choose, make sure to season your mix well and taste it before frying — there is nothing worse than a bland falafel.  Another crucial aspect of producing tender, airy falafel comes from the rolling process.  No matter what you do, DO NOT press and compact the mixture into a tight ball.  Instead, take some of the mixture and apply just enough pressure to have it hold its shape.  It takes a bit of practice at first, but you will be rewarded with beautiful, light falafel in the end.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 lb dried chick peas (garbanzo beans), soaked in water overnight
• 2 red or Spanish onions, coarsely chopped
  
• 2 large garlic cloves, crushed
  
• 1/2 large bunch of parsley
• 2 teaspoons ground cumin
• 2 teaspoons ground coriander
• 2 teaspoons sesame seeds
  
• Kosher salt & cayenne pepper to taste
  
• Canola or vegetable oil for frying
  

METHOD:

1. Drain the chick peas from their soaking liquid and pass them, along with the onion, garlic, parsley, through the finest holes of a meat grinder. Alternatively, place the same ingredients into the bowl of food processor and pulse until the texture is that of a coarse, moist meal.
2. Add the cumin, coriander, sesame seeds, cayenne and salt to the ground mixture. Stir to distribute the spice and allow the mixture to rest for at least a 1/2 hour at room temperature.  Taste a small amount for seasoning and adjust accordingly.
3. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper.  With slightly moistened hands, take walnut-sized lumps (about 2 tablespoons) of the rested falafel mixture from the bowl and gently roll into flat, round shapes, about 1 1/2 inches in diameter.  Place the falafel on the lined sheet pan and repeat with the remaining mix.  Allow rolled falafel balls to rest at least another 15 minutes at room temperature before frying.
4. Pour oil into a 4-qt. Dutch oven to a depth of 2″ and heat over medium-high heat until a deep-fry thermometer registers 350˚. Working in batches, fry the falafel until they are a dark, rich brown color, about 4-5 minutes.  Remove from the oil and drain on paper towels.  Repeat with remaining falafel.
5. Serve the falafel warm or at room temperature along with tahini sauce for drizzling.

Makes about 2 dozen falafel

TAHINI SAUCE

Adapted from Claudia Roden’s A Book of Middle Eastern Food

INGREDIENTS:

• 1-3 cloves garlic, to taste
• Kosher salt, to taste
• Juice of 2 1/2 lemons, or more to taste
• 1/4 pint tahini paste
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
  

METHOD:

1. Crush the garlic with salt to for a paste. Mix it with a little of the lemon juice in a large bowl. Add the tahini paste and mix well.
2. Add the remaining lemon juice and enough cold water to achieve a thick, smooth cream, beating vigorously.
3. Season with salt and cumin; taste and add more lemon juice, garlic or salt until the flavor is fairly strong and tart. Add a few more drops water if too thick. It should be just pourable.

Another day, another classic Mediterranean/Middle-Eastern dip, this time Tzatziki, or Cacik as it’s known in Turkey. (It’s certainly not Irish, but at least I’ve got some green going on!)  Whatever you want to call it, this dip stands out as one of my all-time favorites.  Cool, thick Greek-style yogurt is combined with crisp, refreshing cucumbers and laced with pungent garlic and mint for a concoction that is as good on the humble pita as it is on spicy grilled meats.

Good tzatziki is all about texture.  Yes, balance of flavor is always important, but when it comes to this specific herb-inflected spread, I like mine thick and creamy. Here, liquid is the enemy so my version calls for not one, but two ‘purges’ of moisture (once for the yogurt and once for the cucumbers) in an effort to control the final consistency of the dish.  Now, you can go out and buy thick, Greek-style yogurt at the supermarket, but if you’ve been swept up in its recent trend then you’ve probably already noticed that their not exactly giving that stuff away.  That’s why I buy plain, whole-milk yogurt and drain away the excess whey overnight in the fridge — less money, more moisture control.

This stuff is so refreshing that I’m sure once you try it you’ll be making it for dolloping and dipping throughout the spring and summer months. Plus, once you get the technique for straining the yogurt down, you  can forgo the savory addition of garlic and cucumbers and try drizzling it with honey, stirring in fruit or topping it with granola for an exceptionally delicious breakfast or snack.

TZATZIKI

Making good tzatziki at home requires a bit of patience, but believe me when I tell you that the results are well worth the wait.  Start the recipe the day ahead of when you plan on serving it in order for the whey to drain away from the yogurt. For best results, I’ll sometimes do this by hanging the yogurt from wooden spoon suspended over a deep bowl in the fridge. If you don’t have the refrigerator real estate for this type of setup, you can always drain the yogurt in a cheesecloth lined sieve instead.  If you decide to go the sieve route, stir the yogurt occasionally over the 24 hour period to facilitate the draining of the whey.  Be sure to save this liquid as you might want to add some back in to adjust the consistency of your dip before service.  In another effort to control the water content of the dish, I also have you salt the cucumbers in order to remove further moisture that might dilute the dip.  Once prepared, tzatziki will continue to develop flavor as it sits and is best served just slightly chilled — not straight from the fridge.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 24-ounce container of plain, whole milk yogurt
• 3-4 small Persian cucumbers or about 1 seeded English cucumber.
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint or dill leaves
• 1-2 cloves garlic, finely minced or smashed in a mortar and pestle
• Lemon juice, to taste
• Kosher salt

METHOD:

1. Line a medium bowl with several layers of cheesecloth pour in the contents of the yogurt container. Gather the loose ends of the cheesecloth and fasten them tightly with a rubber band or a length of butcher string.   Suspend the yogurt over a deep bowl in your refrigerator overnight, allowing the liquid to drain away.
2. The following day, pour the strained, thick yogurt into a bowl and reserve some of the whey that has drained away.
3. Peel, dice or grate the cucumbers.  Sprinkle with salt and leave for 1/2 to 1 hour in a colander for the juices to drain.
4. Beat the yogurt in a serving bowl with the minced garlic and the mint or dill (or a combination of both) and fold in the cucumbers.  Season to taste with salt, taking into consideration the residual saltiness of the cucumbers.  Add lemon juice to taste and a splash or two of the reserved whey if the dip is too thick for your tastes.

Makes about 2 cups

Sure, St. Patrick’s Day is right around the corner, and while I could offer you a few variations on classic Irish dishes like corned beef and colcannon, something has me craving Middle Eastern food instead.  So, this week I’ll be posting some of my favorite recipes from Lebanon, Turkey and Israel, all culminating in a dish that will be able to take advantage of each flavorful offering in the group. How about a dip to start?

Like its cousin hummus, baba ganoush is now offered by a myriad of producers and can be found at almost any major grocery store.  While most of it is good, I’ve found that nothing quite compares with a batch of the homemade stuff.  An essential component of any good mezze platter or vegetarian plate at most restaurants, this eggplant dip is as healthy as it is flavorful. For those who’ve never tried it, imagine a smoky spread that is as at once creamy and light, tangy and sweet and as good with warm pita bread at is with crunchy crudite.

At its best, baba is always a contrast of flavors and textures, but the exact ratio of lemon juice to tahini, the consistency from rough chopped to food processor smooth, the addition of a lot or a little garlic, etc. is in the eye mouth of the beholder. And of course, there is no way quite as effective to ensure that a dish is made to your tastes than to make it yourself. So, while I’ve included a handful of measurements in the recipe, keep in mind that they are merely guidelines that can easily be adjusted to suit your own taste, and that technique is what’s most important in creating a outstanding eggplant dip.

BABA GANOUSH

Adapted from Claudia Roden’s, Arabesque a Taste of Morocco, Turkey, and Lebanon

If you have a grill or barbecue sitting in your backyard, this is a great time to take advantage of the smoky flavor that it can add to a dish.  If you don’t feel like starting a fire just to grill some eggplants, char the eggplants under your ovens broiler set on high.  This step is crucial if you are going to attain the smoky flavor that makes baba ganoush so unique.  When your eggplants are cool enough to handle, slice them down the middle and scrape out the flesh with the point of a knife.  Lightly chopping/cutting the eggplant while it is draining in a sieve will not only allow you to remove some of the bitter juices from the flesh, but also control its texture.  If a rustic presentation is not what you are after, simply puree the eggplant in a food processor until the desired consistency is reached.  If you like an especially creamy baba ganosh, add the optional yogurt and whip it into the tahini/lemon mixture before adding the eggplant puree.  Even though you are removing a good amount of bitterness by eliminating the juices from the eggplant, I’ve found that adding a pinch or two of salt can really balance out the acidity of the lemon and counteract any residual bitterness  left in the flesh.  Finally, I like to garnish my baba with a sprinkle of smoked paprika for a nice contrast in color and to reinforce the smoky character of the spread.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 medium eggplants (about 1 1/2 pounds)
• 3 tablespoons tahini
• Juice of 2 lemons
• 2 garlic cloves, crushed
• 3/4 cup to 4/5 cup Greek-style yogurt
• Salt, to taste
• Sugar, to taste
• 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
• Smoked paprika, for garnish

METHOD:

1. Prick the eggplants in a few places with a pointed knife to prevent them from exploding.  Cook the eggplant over the flame of a charcoal barbecue or under the broiler until the skin is charred all over and they feel very soft when you press them.  Alternatively, you can place them on a foil-lined baking sheet and roast them in your oven set on its highest heat setting for about 45-55 until soft.
2. When cool enough to handle, peel and drop them into a strainer or colander with small holes.  Press out as much of the water and juices as possible.  Still in the colander, chop the flesh with a pointed knife, then mash it with a fork or wooden spoon, letting the juices escape through the holes.  Adding a tiny squeeze of lemon juice help to keep the puree looking pale and appetizing.
3. In a bowl, beat the tahini with the lemon juice (the tahini stiffens at first then softens), then beat in the yogurt if you are including it.  Add the mashed eggplant, garlic to taste, and a good pinch of salt.  Beat vigorously and taste to adjust flavoring.
4. Spread the puree onto a flat serving dish or bowl and garnish with a drizzle of olive oil, a sprinkling of parsley and a pinch of smoked paprika. For best flavor, serve at room temperature.

Makes about 2 cups

Listen, there’s nothing wrong with sour cream out of a tub, but man can that stuff ever be thick.  That’s why I love crema — the rich, delicately sour, slightly thickened cream used in Mexican cooking.  Just look at how that stuff drizzles!  I like to think of it as a thinner version of crème fraîche. Unlike sour cream, crema Mexicana won’t break or separate when heated, making it ideal for stirring into warm sauces.  Sure there are a few good brands out there, but making it yourself at home couldn’t be any simpler.  All you need is some heavy cream, a cultured dairy product like buttermilk or yogurt and some culinary cajónes.  That’s right, in order to get this stuff to the right consistency you’re gonna have to leave it out on your counter overnight…unrefrigerated.  But don’t worry, considering the resilience of the ultra-pasteurized heavy whipping cream sold in most supermarkets, it’s gonna take a lot more than a night on your counter to spoil.  I too was a bit worried the first time I made it, but trust me, this recipe works like a charm.  The finished crema is complex, nutty and has a beautiful pourable texture, perfect for spooning on tacos, enchiladas or even a simple baked potato.  Or, do what I do and drizzle it on a plate of loaded, cheesy nachos — it certainly beats a thick glob of cold sour cream.

CREMA MEXICANA

from Rick Bayless’s Mexican Kitchen

Many crema recipes call for a bit more of the active culture to be added to the cream in order to encourage rapid thickening.  Using a mere two teaspoons will still thicken the cream considerably and the 24 hour slow culturing process will encourage more complex flavor development.  Using buttermilk will lend the finished crema a slightly nutty flavor and a beautiful texture that is perfect for drizzling on just about anything.  Using more than 2 teaspoons of the active culture will simply produce a thicker final product.  Once the cream has thickened, feel free to add any flavor components that interest you.  I will sometimes add a bit of lime juice, salt, chile or even ground cumin depending upon its eventual application. Covered and refrigerated, the crema will keep for about 10 days or so.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 cup heavy whipping cream
  
• 2 teaspoons buttermilk, crème fraîche, sour cream or plain yogurt
  

METHOD:

1. Pour the cream into a small saucepan set over low heat and stir just until the chill is off.  Do not heat the cream above 100° (lukewarm).
   
2. Remove the saucepan from the heat, stir in the buttermilk and pour into a clean glass jar.
3. Place the lid on the jar but don’t tighten it, and put in a warm spot.  Allow the cream to develop for 12 to 24 hours, until noticeably thicker.  Stir gently and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight to chill and complete the thickening process.

Makes 1 Cup

Let me start by saying that this is a recipe for guacamole the way I like to eat it.  Not too chunky, definitely not too smooth, bright with lime juice, and not a tomato or garlic clove in sight.  That’s right — I like to leave out the garlic and diced tomato you sometimes find in other recipes because I want the avocado to be the star.  In fact, I find the addition of garlic, even in small amounts, tends to overpower the delicate flavor of a good avocado. So, what makes my version so unique? Nothing special, really.  Just a few basic techniques that I find produce a perfectly textured, beautifully balanced guac that is as good as a dip with chips as it is a condiment on burritos, tacos and enchiladas.

My guacamole starts with ripe avocados — not the hard, vegetal tasting variety that you’re likely to find when they’ve just been delivered to your local supermarket.  With avocado prices what they are these days, in my opinion, it’s not worth the time or money to make guacamole unless you can find soft-ripe, buttery avocados to do so with.  This sometimes takes some careful planning, giving slightly under-ripe specimens the appropriate time needed to reach the proper level of ripeness.  Next, I give my guacamole a nice, healthy dose of freshly squeezed lime juice for a clean, citrusy note and finely minced serrano chiles and “deflamed” red onion for a bit of heat and textural contrast.  Finished with a bit of chopped cilantro and a good dash of salt and I’m left with a true a crowdpleaser.

This recipe doubles easily, so next time you have a group of friends coming over or are tasked with the duty of bringing a dip to your next potluck, throw out a bowl of this guacamole and watch it disappear.

GUACAMOLE

Good guacamole starts with soft-ripe avocados.  Make sure to look for avocados that yield slightly when gently pressed on their rounded blossom end.  Even the most perfect avocados can have a few dark spots here and there, so be sure to remove those once you get the flesh out of their skins.  Tossing the diced avocado in the lime juice will prevent oxidation from occurring while you prepare your other ingredients.  Be careful not mash the avocado during this step however, or you will be left with smooth puree by the time you’ve had a chance to incorporate your other ingredients.  Everyone’s tastes are different — if you are not a fan of red onion or cilantro, feel free to leave them out.  If you like diced tomatoes in your guac, add them in with the chiles before bringing everything together.  If you decide to make the guacamole earlier in the day, store it in the refrigerator by laying a sheet of plastic wrap directly on the surface of the dip to avoid that brown color that comes from oxidation.

INGREDIENTS

• 3 large (about 1 1/2 pounds) soft-ripe avocados
  
• 1-2 tablespoons fresh squeezed lime juice (from about half of a large lime)
• 1/2 cup finely diced red onion (from about half of a small onion)
• 1 – 2 serrano chiles, minced
• 1/4 cup chopped cilantro, lightly packed
• 1 1/2 teaspoon Kosher salt, plus more to taste
  

METHOD:

1. Begin by slicing each avocado in half, running your knife around the pit from stem to blossom end.  Remove the pit from each avocado by gently lodging the heel of your blade into them and twisting slightly to break them free from the flesh.  Making sure not slice through the skin, carefully score each avocado half in a 1/2-inch crosshatch pattern.  Using a large spoon, gently scoop the flesh out of each half into a large bowl.
2. Pour the freshly squeezed lime juice over the diced avocado and gently fold to coat each piece.  You’re not looking to mash the avocado at this point, just toss it with lime juice to prevent oxidation.
3. Scoop the finely diced red onion into a strainer and rinse it under cold running water to remove some of its pungency.  Drain the onion well before throwing it in on top of the diced avocado in the bowl.  Do not stir to incorporate at this point.
4. Toss in the minced chiles, chopped cilantro and salt.  Stir, lightly mashing the avocado with the back of a spoon or rubber spatula until all the ingredients are well incorporated and you’ve reached your desired texture/consistency.  Allow the guacamole to sit for at least 30 minutes at room temperature in order for the flavors to come together.  Taste for salt and acidity, adjusting as necessary.
5. Serve at room temperature for optimal flavor.

Makes about 2 cups

For me, peanut sauce served as a definitive gateway flavor into what would be come a lifelong addiction to Thai cuisine. Having grown up on a steady diet of peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, it wasn’t until I first tasted the peanut sauce that accompanied my Mom’s chicken satay from the Thai spot in our mall food court that I came to realize that peanut butter could be used in savory dishes as well. To my young developing palate, peanut sauce was at once exotic and familiar.  Salty, sweet and rich with warm Thai spices, the run-of-the-mill skewered chicken soon became a vehicle for what I really wanted: the sauce.

I’ve made many versions of peanut sauce over the years and have come to recognize this rendition as my go-to, all-purpose recipe.  Used as a dip, tossed with rice noodles or as a condiment for jasmine rice, I’m sure you’ll find this sauce has many amazing applications.  While some recipes include everything from soy sauce and grated ginger to garlic and chili sauce, this particular version gets it’s nuance and depth from aromatic Thai curry paste.  Along with a few other simple yet flavorful ingredients, it’s the paste that takes this sauce to the next level and lend it that authentic taste.  It goes without saying that a fresh, homemade curry paste will render an exceptionally fragrant final sauce, but if you’re strapped for time, store-bought red curry paste from a jar makes a perfectly suitable alternative.

THAI PEANUT SAUCE

Adapted from Victor Sodsook’s, True Thai: The Modern Art of Thai Cooking

This is a simple and forgiving recipe with very few ingredients that comes together quite quickly.   It’s easy to adjust the final sauce to suit your own taste.  Some brands of peanut butter can already be a bit sweet, so feel free to scale back the amount of brown sugar called for in the recipe.  This recipe makes a rich, thick sauce that can easily be thinned out with warm water or more coconut milk if a lighter consistency is preferred.  I will also sometimes add a bit of lime juice along with the fish sauce to cut through the richness for certain applications.  Expect a lot of sauce, but don’t worry; it keeps well refrigerated for up to 3 weeks. Finally, too high of heat during the cooking process can break the sauce, separating the oil from the rest of the ingredients.  If this happens, don’t panic.  Simply lower the heat and whisk the sauce vigorously to reincorporate the oil.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 can (14-ounces) unsweetened coconut milk
• 6 tablespoons homemade panang, masaman or store-bought red curry paste
• 2/3 cup peanut butter (chunky or smooth)
• 7 tablespoons light or dark brown sugar
• 2 tablespoons fish sauce

METHOD:

1. Heat the coconut milk in a medium saucepan set over medium heat, stirring occasionally until it has reaches a gentle boil.
2. Add the curry paste and stir until well incorporated and fragrant, about 3 minutes.
3. Add in the peanut butter and cook, stirring constantly for about 1 minute.
4. Reduce the heat to low and add in the brown sugar, stirring until dissolved.
5. Remove the peanut sauce from the heat and stir in the fish sauce.  Thin with warm water if a lighter consistency is desired.
6. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Makes about 2 1/2 cups

To be completely honest, I didn’t even realize these crispy bites were referred to as crab rangoon until recently.  Growing up, these crab and cream cheese filled wontons were known as crab cheese puffs at my family’s favorite Chinese take-out spot.  I’m pretty sure those guys were skimping on the crab because all I can remember is chomping down into a warm glob of scallion-flecked cream cheese.  Don’t get me wrong, dipped into hot Chinese mustard and highlighter-red sweet and sour sauce, I wasn’t complaining.  Today, wiser and bit more sophisticated, I need that crab.

It’s dungeness crab season here in the Bay Area, and while there might be better dishes out there that highlight the sweet, succulent flesh of these delicious creatures, crab rangoon seems like a perfectly festive nibble to serve as an hors d’oeuvre at any last minute holiday parties.  My version features a bunch of thinly sliced green onions, Worcestershire sauce for added savory depth and just a bit of grated ginger and lemon juice to cut through the richness of the cream cheese.

CRAB RANGOON WITH SWEET AND SOUR DIPPING SAUCE

There really isn’t much to putting together this recipe.  Filling and sealing the wontons can be tricky at first, but after you complete a few of them you’ll get in a groove and bang out the rest in no time.  If you’re having any difficulty sealing the wrapper around the filling, start out by using less filling until you get the hang of the process.  Make sure to eliminate as many air bubbles as possible when sealing the wontons as they can result in holes once they hit the hot oil.  The wontons will have the propensity to float to the surface when frying, so stand guard and keep them submerged with a wire spider/skimmer and flip them periodically to ensure even browning.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1/2 pound fresh crab meat, picked over for any shell fragments
• 8 ounces cream cheese, softened
  
• 1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
• 1/2 teaspoon soy sauce
• 1/2 teaspoon grated ginger
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
  
• 1-2 green onions, sliced paper thin
• Freshly ground black pepper to taste
  
• 24 store-bought wonton skins
• 1 tablespoon cornstarch
• 2 tablespoons water
• 1 egg yolk
• Oil for frying
  

METHOD:

1. In a large bowl, combine the fresh crab meat with the cream cheese.  Fold in the remaining ingredients up to the wonton wrappers. Taste for seasoning and set aside.
   
2. Create the wonton sealing mixture by dissolving the cornstarch in the 2 tablespoons of water.  Add the egg yolk and stir until well-incorporated and smooth.  Set sealing mixture aside.
   
3. Working one wonton at a time, place a dough wrapper on a work surface and fill it with 1 heaping teaspoon of the crab filling.  Dip your finger in the egg/cornstarch sealing mixture and lightly paint the border of the wonton wrapper.  Fold over the edges of the wrapper to create a triangle while encasing the crab filling, pressing to seal the edges with your fingertips.  Using the back of a fork, ensure that the wontons are sealed by gently crimping the borders to create a fluted edge.  Repeat with remaining wontons.
4. Preheat oven to 200°.  Heat oil in a large, heavy-bottomed pot until it reaches the temperature of 350°.  Working in batches, fry the wontons until crispy and golden brown, about 3-4 minutes.  Drain the wontons on paper towels and keep them warm in the oven while you continue frying the remaining batches.  Serve warm with sweet and sour dipping sauce and/or hot Chinese mustard.
   

Makes 24 wontons

SWEET AND SOUR DIPPING SAUCE

Adapted from Irene Kuo’s, The Key to Chinese Cooking

Much more complex in terms of flavor and not quite as sweet as the translucent, neon-red version served in most Chinese restaurants, this sweet and sour sauce is a terrific compliment to homemade crab rangoon.  Batter and fry up some pork, chop some fresh pineapple and toss in a few tablespoons of sauce for a homemade version of sweet and sour pork.  If the sauce isn’t sweet enough for your tastes, whisk in the optional honey while the sauce is still warm.

INGREDIENTS:

• 5 tablespoons granulated sugar
  
• 1/2 teaspoon table salt
• 4 tablespoons distilled white vinegar
  
• 3 tablespoons light soy sauce
• 2 tablespoons dry sherry or Chinese rice wine
• 3 tablespoons ketchup
• 2 tablespoons peanut or vegetable oil
  
• 1 large clove garlic, peeled and lightly crushed
• 1 tablespoon cornstarch dissolved in 3 tablespoons of water
• 1 tablespoon sesame oil
• 1/2 cup water
• 1 tablespoon honey (optional)
  

METHOD:

1. Combine the sugar, salt, vinegar, soy, sherry, and ketchup in a bowl and stir until sugar is dissolved.  In a separate small bowl, combine the cornstarch/water mixture with the sesame oil and set aside.
2. Heat the peanut or vegetable oil in a medium saucepan set over moderate heat until hot.  Add in the garlic and stir, pressing on the clove until aromatic and lightly browned.
3. Pour in the sauce slowly and stir with the back of a wooden spoon until the liquid comes to a boil.  Turn the heat down to low and add in the cornstarch mixture, stirring until sauce begins to thicken.  Add in the water slowly, stirring until the sauce is smooth and bubbly.  Turn off the heat and set aside to cool.  The sauce can be made in advance as it holds well in the refrigerator for many days and can be frozen for weeks without losing flavor.

Makes about 2 cups

You know how bacon is all the rage these days? Bacon dipped in chocolate, bacon topped donuts, bacon beurre blanc – for me, it’s all about chorizo.  I’m constantly looking for ways to incorporate it into my cooking and seldom pass up an opportunity to eat a dish in which it is a key component (see Arroz Con Pollo).  Such was the case when I came across this recipe for Goat Cheese and Chorizo Rolls in this month’s Food and Wine Magazine.  Now chorizo is good by itself, but chorizo and tangy goat cheese together?  That sounded like a combo that was too good to pass up.

With a few holiday parties just around the corner, I figured I’d give these guys a test drive before serving them to any guests.  In this sense I consider myself a self-employed guinea pig — not a bad job at all.  After eating a half batch for lunch, I can say with certainty that I have a new hors d’oeurve recipe in the arsenal.  Tangy from the goat cheese and rich and smoky from the chorizo, these crispy little bundles are the type of finger food that demand a good cocktail to wash them down.  While they take a bit of time and patience to roll, preparing the goat cheese filling takes minutes.  Knock these out early in the morning and keep them in the fridge until your friends arrive.

After reading that the recipe was inspired by the street food of Argentina, I decided to serve them alongside another Argentine classic of chimichurri rojo.  Like it’s verde cousin, this sauce has plenty of garlic and a nice vinegar bite to cut through the rich, creaminess of the goat cheese.

GOAT CHEESE AND CHORIZO ROLLS

From Nirmala Narine’s, Nirmala’s Edible Diary

I learned my lesson about working with phyllo dough the hard way when I attempted to unroll a partially defrosted package and it crumbled into a thousand brittle shards.  Read the package carefully and make sure to let your phyllo defrost completely before trying to work with it.  Also, I’ve found its best to cover the reserved sheets with a damp towel while you’re rolling the first batches in an effort to keep them from drying out.  When it comes time to roll up the filling, be sure to gather in the sides as you go.  Don’t be afraid to gather and pinch the sides a bit during this step as it will help seal in the filling and prevent the cheese from leaking out during baking.  Finally, make sure to buy dry-cured Spanish-style chorizo and not the fresh, Mexican variety found at the butcher counter.  This might be common knowledge for most, but I know this can be confusing for some who are not accustomed to cooking with this sausage.

INGREDIENTS:

• 8 ounces fresh goat cheese
• 1 cup chopped dry chorizo
• 1 1/2 tablespoons minced chives
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Nine 12-by-16-inch sheets of thawed phyllo dough
• Melted butter, for brushing

METHOD:

1. Preheat oven to 400° and line two large baking sheets with parchment paper.  In a bowl, combine the goat cheese, chorizo and chives.  Season to taste with salt and pepper.
2. Lay a sheet of phyllo on a clean, dry work surface and brush it with melted butter.  Top with two more sheets, lightly buttering each as you go.  Cut the layered phyllo into six long rectangles.  Place one tablespoon of the goat cheese filling at the base of each rectangle and roll up the phyllo, folding in the sides as you go.  Repeat twice more to make 18 rolls total.
3. Place the rolls on the prepared baking sheets and brush the rolls with butter; bake for 10 minutes, or until golden.  Serve hot with chimichurri rojo for dipping.

Makes 18 Rolls

CHIMICHURRI ROJO

If you’d like this a bit thicker try adding a tablespoon or two of plain yogurt  or sour cream.  It also makes a fantastic marinade for meat and can be worked into a delicious salad dressing.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1/2 cup sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar
• 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
  
• 1 1/2 tablespoons hot paprika
• 2 teaspoons cayenne pepper
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 teaspoon toasted and ground cumin seeds
• 1 bay leaf broken in half
• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
  

METHOD:

1. Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl and whisk to incorporate.

You’d never know it, but just off of Highway 1, in the sleepy Sonoma Coast town of Gualala, there lives an authentic gem of a taquería the likes of which are seldom found in the heart of a big city.  Tucked into the corner of the ever-depressing Sundstrom Mall and flanked by a glowing bakery case packed with a plethora of sub-par pastries you’ll find, Gualala Pizza & Bakery.  Try not to let the name fool you — or the locals for that matter (they’ll be the ones inexplicably munching away on pizza and burgers), it’s the Mexican food you’re here for, and man is it ever good!  We’re talking handmade corn tortillas, carnitas-packed gorditas, delectable barbacoa burritos and my personal favorite: Baja-style, beer-battered salmon tacos.  Everything is fresh, delicious and affordable, but for me, it’s their “complimentary” avocado-tomatillo salsa that has me coming back to this place.

Slathered on tacos or used as a dip for their fried-to-order tortilla chips, this sauce is good on anything.  I was beginning to think that I was the only one who had an unhealthy relationship with this spicy green salsa, that is, until a family member stepped forward to shed light on their own addiction.  My sister confessed to regularly smuggling out a few extra containers to use at home for her own culinary concoctions.  It may be paranoia, but I think they might have caught-on to our little scheme because they no longer set out those little plastic cups.  So, suffering from severe withdrawal, I finally set out to whip up a batch myself.

It took patience and careful planning, but by asking the ladies behind the counter a few well-positioned questions scattered over the course of a couple of visits, I was able to deduce that it consisted of canned (not fresh) tomatillos as its base with ripe avocado accounting for its creamy texture.  With only a handful of obvious ingredients (lime, chiles, garlic) making up the remainder of the mix, I played around with several brands of tomatillos and searched for the perfect ratio of avocado.  In the end, I think I got something that’s pretty close.  My cravings have been dealt with for now, but it’s only a matter of time before I get a hankering for one of those unbeatable fish tacos.

AVOCADO-TOMATILLO SALSA

This is one of those salsas that is extremely easy to adjust to personal taste, so don’t be afraid to add more or less of any of the suggested ingredients.  I personally love a biting, fiery sauce so I choose to use a minimum of 2 serrano chiles when making my batches.  If you prefer a salsa more akin to traditional guacamole, feel free to use an entire avocado instead of the half for an even creamier texture.  I only like to use a little garlic when making this condiment as adding too much can quickly overwhelm the other flavors.  This is also one of the rare instances where I choose to forgo the use of cilantro, as it’s addition tends to detract from the brightness of the canned tomatillos.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 12-ounce can, drained, whole tomatillos
• 1/2 large ripe avocado, roughly chopped
• 1 small clove of garlic, roughly chopped
• Juice of 1/2 a large lime
• 1-2 medium serrano chiles, roughly chopped
• 3/4 teaspoon Kosher salt

METHOD:

1. Place all of the ingredients into the bowl of a food processor and process until the components are well-incorporated into a smooth sauce, about 30-40 seconds.

Makes about 1 1/2 cups