The real title of this post should be “Mom’s Meatloaf,” as this is the very same recipe I grew up eating as a child.  A perennial favorite in our household, few meatloaves deliver in the way this barbecue sauce-topped rendition does.  The epitome of comfort, my Mom would be the first to tell you that this dish is “hard to screw up.”  In fact, it’s the simplicity of this recipe that makes it a true standout in my mind.  Perfect for company, yet quick and easy enough for a weeknight meal, this tender and juicy meatloaf comes together in no time and feeds a crowd for next to nothing.  Covered with a sweet, tangy homemade barbecue sauce, this meatloaf is sure to please even the pickiest of eaters as few can resist it’s sticky, ketchup-like topping.  If you love meatloaf but can’t justify the saturated fat, substitute ground turkey for a version that is just as tasty and quite a bit healthier — you’ll barely notice the difference.  As good cold as it is served warm, this recipe also makes for a killer meatloaf sandwich.  So, in a world filled with so much bad meatloaf, do yourself a favor and go with a tried-and-true recipe that works.  Your family, friends and significant others will thank you.

CLASSIC MEATLOAF

The beauty of this recipe is in its simplicity.  I like to briefly saute the onion prior to adding it to the loaf mixture in an effort to bring out a bit of its sweet character and remove a bit of its rawness.  I use panko instead of traditional breadcrumbs as I find their addition creates a more tender, lighter textured final meatloaf.  The barbecue sauce in this recipe is what makes this version a true winner.  I’ve outlined the basic technique below, but feel free to add any of your favorite ingredients to this simple sauce.  It will still appear to be a bit thin when added to the top of the meatloaf prior to baking, but don’t worry; it will thicken substantially during the hour and a half bake time in the oven.  Once cooked, the meatloaf will have given up some of its juices.  This is normal.  Allow the meatloaf to rest, as this will ensure that it reabsorbs some of those precious, flavorful juices.  If you are inclined to do so, defat the accumulated juices and reduce them in a small saucepan over low heat until slightly thickened for a killer gravy to top your sliced meatloaf.  Finally, feel free to use a combination of beef, pork and veal or go all beef or turkey if you want.  Either way, it’ll still turn out solid.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 medium onion, finely minced
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
  
• 1 pound ground beef
  
• 1 pound ground pork
• 1 cup panko breadcrumbs
  
• 1 14-ounce can tomato puree, divided
  
• 2 large eggs, lightly beaten
• 4 teaspoons Kosher Salt
• 1 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 teaspoon dried thyme
• 1/3 cup chopped parsley
• 2 tablespoons mustard
• 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
  
• 2-3 tablespoons brown sugar
• 1/4 teaspoon chipotle pepper powder or BBQ seasoning
  

METHOD:

1. Preheat the oven to 350°
2. Heat the olive oil in a small skillet over medium heat until hot and sweat the onion, stirring occasionally until just translucent and no longer raw, about 5 minutes.  Transfer the onion to a plate and allow to cool.
3. In a large bowl, combine the beef, pork, breadcrumbs, cooled onions, half the tomato puree, eggs, salt, pepper, thyme and parsley.  Using clean hands, mix the ingredients thoroughly until well combined.  Lightly pack the mixture into a greased loaf pan and set aside while you prepare the barbecue sauce.
4. In a small saucepan, add the remaining tomato puree along with the mustard, cider vinegar, brown sugar, and chipotle powder.  Season the barbecue sauce to taste with salt and pepper and bring to a gentle simmer and allow to thicken slightly, about 5-8 minutes.  Remove the sauce from the heat and allow to cool a bit.
5. Pour the warm barbecue sauce on top of the prepared meatloaf and bake in the oven for 1 1/2 hours, or until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of the meatloaf registers 150°.  Remove the loaf from the oven and place it on a rack to rest for at least 15-20 minutes.  Once rested, pour off excess juices (setting aside for gravy if desired), remove the loaf from the pan and slice into 1-inch thick slices.  Serve at once.
   

Serves 6-8

I should start by saying that this dish is rich — certainly not for those still trying to stick to their New Years resolution.  While cream sauced pasta might always be an off-limit item for calorie counters, it’s the Gorgonzola, ricotta and Parmesan cheese that makes this dish especially decadent and delicious.  It’s this same indulgent quality that has people lined up around the block at Gayle’s Bakery & Rosticceria, a neighborhood fixture in a small beach town called Capitola, a few miles south of Santa Cruz in Northern California.

I visited Gayle’s for the first time in college on an adventure to find a solid, quality meal and a break from the less-than inspiring food of the dining hall.  Craving something comforting more than anything, I felt right at home in front of their massive rotisserie and deli case packed with roasted chickens, slow barbecued ribs, potato salad and sandwiches.  The place was bustling with business and food was flying out the door but nothing seemed to be selling faster than the humble looking spinach-gorgonzola pasta.  As I remember it, not one customer left without ordering some.  So, like any smart food explorer, I did as the locals did and took some to-go.  After a few bites, it was obvious what all fuss was about.

Having moved away from Santa Cruz, I’m no longer able to take part in what became a near-weekly trip to Gayle’s for some of their signature pasta.  So feeling especially deprived of late, I searched for the restaurant online and was lucky enough to find that they’ve been giving out the recipe to their customers for years.  After making the dish at home this past weekend, I’m happy to report that it’s as soul-satisfying as I remember it.

SPINACH-GORGONZOLA PASTA

From Gayle’s Bakery & Rosticceria, Capitola, California

This pasta gets its rich flavor from a thick and creamy Gorgonzola cream sauce.  Making the béchamel sauce is simple, but make sure you taste the sauce for seasoning before you cool it to ensure that the tangy flavor of the cheese really shines.  Seasoning is also important when it comes to boiling the pasta.  Make sure to do so in a very large pot of highly salted water to ensure that the shells end up well-seasoned.  It is of the utmost importance that you only cook the pasta to the point of being very al dente.  I like to err on the side of underdone to ensure the pasta doesn’t fall apart after baking.  If shells aren’t your thing, bow tie pasta would be a great substitute in this recipe.  For an outstanding and authentic Italian twist, try substituting grilled or sauteed radicchio in place of the spinach for a pleasantly bitter accent to the cheesy sauce.  When it comes time to bake the pasta, it’s best to do so in a vessel that will allow the pasta to be fairly well covered with sauce as this will prevent it from drying out.  Finally, use as much or as little of the grated Parmesan as you would like to top the dish and give it a crusty brown top.

INGREDIENTS:

• 4 cups of milk
• 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 3 tablespoons butter
• 10 ounces Gorgonzola cheese
• 4 pinches nutmeg
• 1/2 teaspoon pepper
• 1 pound large pasta shells
• 2 bunches fresh spinach, cleaned and dried, or 1 package frozen
• 3/4 cup ricotta cheese, well-drained
  
• 3 cloves garlic, finely minced
• Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
• 1 cup grated Parmesan cheese

METHOD:

1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. In a heavy saucepan over medium heat, heat the milk until hot but not boiling.
2. Meanwhile, combine flour and butter in another heavy saucepan. Stir over medium heat with a wooden spoon or whisk until the mixture has gently bubbled for 2 minutes, being careful not to brown the flour.
3. Begin to add the hot milk to the flour mixture a little at a time while whisking vigorously. Continue to add the milk until it is fully incorporated. Bring the mixture to a boil, reduce the heat to low, and simmer, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens, about 6 to 8 minutes. it will look like heavy cream. Crumble the cheese and add it to the hot béchamel sauce, whisking continuously until smooth. Add the nutmeg and pepper and stir. Remove form heat and let cool.
4. Cook the pasta in salted boiling water for 8 to 10 minutes, until al dente. Drain and set aside.
5. If using fresh spinach, blanch it 1 to 2 minutes in a little boiling water. Drain it, let it cool, and squeeze all of the water out several times. if you are using frozen spinach, let it defrost in a sieve over a bowl for at least 3 hours. Squeeze all the water out by hand.
6. Toss the pasta, Gorgonzola sauce, spinach, ricotta, and garlic in a large bowl until well combined. Taste and correct for salt and pepper.
7. Place in a 12 X 17-inch casserole dish and top with the Parmesan. Bake for 20 to 30 minutes, until the cheese browns a little. you may make this a day ahead, and before baking, refrigerate well covered.

Makes 6-8 Servings

My girlfriend (and her entire family) is nuts for broccoli beef.  In fact, she’s down with almost all of the classic Chinese-American dishes — chow mein, wonton soup, cashew chicken, etc.  When I told her I was planning on pulling together a few recipes for Chinese New Year to post on the blog, she insisted that this dish had to be on the menu.  As she put it, “this is the type of Chinese food that everybody loves.”  As hard as it is to admit, I too am fairly partial to a good take-out box of broccoli beef every once in a while.  Sure, I have a few Chinese friends that scoff at the very notion of this dish as a truly “authentic” Chinese dish, but the fact of the matter is, this is good, simple comfort food at its best.

Making good broccoli beef at home is way easier than most people think.  In fact, with a few Asian ingredients that all home chefs should have in their pantry and about a pound of good flank steak, the average home cook can have an outstanding dish on their table in less than a half hour.  Simply follow the principles of good stir-frying technique and you are pretty much guaranteed solid results.  Make this dish. After you see how easy it is to put together you might just reconsider paying $9-$10 for it at a restaurant the next time you get that craving.

BROCCOLI BEEF

Adapted from Jaden Hair’s Recipe at Simply Recipes

Blanching the broccoli before adding it to the pan ensures that each floret will be perfectly cooked in your final dish as it would never have the chance to fully cook given the brief frying period in this recipe.  As with all blanching of vegetables, do so in a very large pot of well-salted water and have your ice bath ready and waiting.  When it comes time to stir-fry the beef, make sure your pan is ripping hot.  Once the beef has been added, don’t touch it.  I like there to be a good amount of caramelization taking place on the meat during this initial sear and you will not be able to induce much browning if you are constantly stirring the contents of the pan.  Considering how drastic the difference in salt levels can be among certain brands of soy sauce and oyster sauce, taste the sauce before adding it to the pan and adjust accordingly.  If you find the sauce a bit too salty, try adding a few pinches of sugar to balance out the flavor.

INGREDIENTS:

• 3/4 pound flank steak, thinly sliced against the grain
• 3/4 pound broccoli florets
• 2 tablespoons peanut, grapeseed or vegetable oil
• 2 cloves garlic, finely minced
• 1 teaspoon cornstarch, dissolved in 1 tablespoon water

For the Marinade:

• 1 teaspoon soy sauce
• 1 teaspoon Chinese rice wine (or dry sherry)
• 1/2 teaspoon cornstarch
• 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

For the Sauce:

• 2 tablespoons oyster sauce
• 1 teaspoon Chinese rice wine (or dry sherry)
• 1 tablespoon light soy sauce
• 1/4 cup chicken broth
• 1/4 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
• Sugar to taste

METHOD:

1. Marinate the Beef: Stir together the beef marinade ingredients in a medium bowl.  Add in the slices of beef and stir until well coated.  Set aside at room temperature for at least 10 minutes.
   
2. Make the Sauce: Stir together the sauce ingredients in a small bowl until well combined. Set aside.
   
3. Blanch the Broccoli: Cook the broccoli florets in a large pot of well-salted boiling water for 1 to 2 minutes or until crisp-tender.  Using a slotted spoon, remove the broccoli from the boiling water and ‘shock’ the florets immediately in ice water to stop the cooking process.  Drain well, dry and set aside.
   
4. Make the Broccoli Beef: Heat the 2 tablespoons of oil in a large skillet or wok over set over high heat until shimmering and just starting to smoke.  Add the marinated beef to the pan in a single layer, making sure that each pieces lays flat against the bottom for maximum surface contact.  Let the beef fry for 1 minutes without turning or flipping.  Turn the beef over, add the garlic to the pan and allow to fry for another 30 seconds or until no longer pink.
   
5. Stir the contents of the pan and pour in the sauce, add the blanched broccoli and bring to a boil.  Add the dissolved cornstarch liquid and simmer until slightly thickened, about 30 more seconds.  Take the pan off the heat, swirl in the sesame oil and serve immediately.

Serves 4

Throw grated cheddar cheese, sour cream, sliced green onions, and cilantro over a bowl of Stagg Chili and you have a satisfying bowl of chili.  Throw those same condiments over a warm bowl of this hearty lamb and chorizo chili, and you have an epic winter meal.  But I’ll warn you, this chili isn’t for the faint of heart.  This is some rich, earthy fare the likes of which are seldom explored by the typical American diner.  In my mind, I believe this is chili the way chili was always meant to taste.

Thick, heavily spiced and slightly gamey, this is cold weather, stick-to-your-ribs food at it best, making it not only great for the winter season, but also perfect Super Bowl grub if you’re looking to feed a group with a big appetite. I’d go so far as to call this real man food, if my girlfriend weren’t so quick to remind me that women love chili, too.

Garnishes are key here; they lighten the rich flavors while enhancing the chili’s meatiness, so set out a spread of shredded cheese, chopped onion, cilantro and sour cream and let your guests go nuts.

LAMB AND CHORIZO CHILI

Adapted from Bon Appétit

Use fresh, Mexican chorizo  and not the dry-cured Spanish variety in this recipe.  After sautéing and draining the chorizo, be sure to return the fat (drippings) to the pan from the top of any juices that might have collected.  This flavorful, bright red fat will be the medium in which you will fry your aromatics.  This chili can be made as far as three days in advance of service and will definitely benefit from an overnight “curing” in the refrigerator after it’s been simmered.  When reheating, place the chili in a medium saucepan and bring back to a bare simmer, covered, and stirring often over low heat.  Adjust with more stock or water if the chili seems dry and check again for seasoning. In fact, because not all chorizo sausage is seasoned the same way, taste throughout the cooking process and tailor the chili to your own taste.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 1/4 cups chicken broth
• 3 ounces dried ancho chilies (about 5 large), stemmed, seeded, torn into pieces
• 1 tsp. cayenne pepper
• 1 1/2 lbs pork chroizo, casings removed
• 2 cups red onion, coarsely chopped
• 10 large garlic cloves, chopped
• 1 tablespoon dried oregano
• 1 tablespoon cumin
• 1 1/2 lbs ground lamb
• 1 can (15-ounces) canned pinto beans, rinsed and drained
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• Grated cheddar or jack cheese
• Thinly sliced green onions
• Sour cream or Mexican crema
• Cilantro leaves
• Pickled jalapenos, diced

METHOD:

1. Combine first three ingredients in a medium saucepan. Cover and simmer over medium heat until chilies soften, about 12 minutes. Puree mixture in a blender, in batches if need be.  Strain the chile mixture through a fine mesh sieve, pressing on the solids, and set aside.
2. Meanwhile, cook chorizo in a large pot over medium-high heat until drippings come to a simmer. Transfer to a strainer set over a bowl and let drain for 10 minutes.
3. Return 1/4 cup of the chorizo drippings to the same pot and heat over medium-high heat. Add the onion, garlic, oregano and cumin and saute until onions begin to soften, about 5 minutes.
4. Sprinkle lamb with salt and pepper and add to the pot. Sauté just until the lamb is no longer pink on the outside. Add chili puree and drained chorizo. Bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat to a simmer and allow to cook for 1 hour.
5. Add drained pinto beans and simmer uncovered until liquid thickens, about 15 minutes. Season well with salt and pepper to taste. Serve with grated cheddar, sour cream, green onions, cilantro and diced pickled jalapenos as desired.

Makes 6 to 8 servings, depending on the appetite of your crowd

I’m sure they wouldn’t like to admit it, but even some of the world’s most accomplished home cooks struggle when attempting to roast the perfect chicken.  The fact is it’s far easier to make a roasted chicken look good than it is to make it taste good. I don’t know how many times I’ve sat down to enjoy what I believed to be a perfectly roasted chicken — the quintessential golden brown bird flecked with black pepper and fragrant herbs — only to cut into the thing and find it bone dry or worse, still raw at the bone. Or, and this is perhaps worst of all, a combination of both, so that you end up hacking it up and destroying the only thing it had going for it: its good looks.

But this roast chicken? Well, it’s an entirely different beast, or rather, bird.  First, it’s the smell. An intoxicating aroma of garlic will start you salivating. Then you’ll notice the skin. Not only is it golden brown, it’s crisp, like really crisp.  And beneath that exterior you’ll find the juiciest and most tender chicken you’ve ever cut into. But it’s the flavor that will leave you coming back for more. The marinade’s combination of garlic, mustard, soy sauce and herbes de provence create a flavor that is at once familiar and completely unexpected. In addition to the marinade, the cooking method is also unique. Unlike typical whole roasted chicken, this recipe calls for you to butterfly the bird. Not only does this help the meat cook more evenly, but it also allows you to sear the bottom of the chicken before throwing it in the oven and cook it in half the time of a usual whole roasted chicken. Sound perfect? It is. But don’t take my word for it.

ROASTED CHICKEN WITH A MUSTARD CRUST

Adapted from Jacques Pepin’s, More Fast Food My Way

The thought of removing the backbone from the chicken in this recipe can be a bit overwhelming if you’ve never done it before, but rest assured that it is actually quite a simple skill that all home chefs should have in their arsenal.  Make sure to use a sharp knife or a good pair of heavy duty kitchen shears and don’t be afraid to use a little elbow grease to get through those rib bones.  If you are too intimidated by such a task, most butchers will happily do this for you.  Whichever route you choose though, make sure you save the backbone for making rich, homemade chicken stock.  Cutting deep slashes in and around the thigh and shoulder joints of the bird allows for quick, even cooking due to increased heat penetration.  When it comes time to rest the bird after roasting, don’t let all those beautiful caramelized bits go to waste in the skillet.  Pour off any excess fat, return the skillet to the stove over medium heat and deglaze the pan with a splash of white wine, being sure to scrape up any browned bits clinging to the pan.  Pour in a bit of chicken stock (about a cup), bring to a simmer and swirl in a couple of tablespoons of cold butter just before serving and you will be left with an outstanding gravy, perfect for pouring over fluffy mashed potatoes.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 tablespoons minced garlic
  
• 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
• 2 tablespoons dry white wine
• 1 tablespoon soy sauce
  
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 teaspoon hot sauce
• 1 teaspoons herbs de Provence
  
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
  
• 1 chicken (3 1/2 – 4 pounds)

METHOD:

1. Whisk all of the ingredients (except chicken) together in a small bowl until emulsified into a fragrant, wet marinade.
   
2. Using kitchen shears or a sharp knife, cut along each side of the backbone to remove it.  The best way to do this if you don’t have kitchen shears is to sit the chicken on it’s bottom and slice all the way down each side of the back bone in a straight line. Once you’ve removed the backbone, open the chicken up like a book and place it on the cutting board, cavity side down. Press firmly in the center of the breast to crack the breastbone and encourage a flatter shape.  Using a sharp paring knife, cut halfway through both sides of the joints connecting the drumstick to the thigh and cut through the joints of the shoulder under the wing as well.
3. Place the chicken skin side down in a large baking dish and evenly spoon on half of the mustard marinade.  Flip the chicken over and spread the remaining mustard mixture evenly over the skin side of the chicken.  Wrap the dish in plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.
4. Remove the chicken from the refrigerator at least 30 minutes prior to cooking and preheat the oven to 450° F. Place a skillet large enough to accommodate the chicken over high heat.  When hot, place the chicken in the pan skin side up and spoon on any leftover marinade in the baking dish.  Cook the chicken on the stovetop for 5 minutes before placing the entire skillet in the oven.  Roast for 30-35 minutes, or until the chicken is well-browned with a crispy skin.
5. Remove the skillet from the oven and allow the chicken to rest in the pan for at least 5 minutes.  Place the chicken on a clean cutting board and allow it to rest for another 5 minutes.  Cut the chicken into 8 pieces using a sharp knife or kitchen shears and serve alongside mashed potatoes or a mixed green salad.

Serves 4

If you’re wondering why I’m posting another pork taco recipe, try to understand that this is the type of food that I crave.  Comforting, flavorful food that fills the belly and is easy on the pocketbook.  Anyone who’s read my blog knows by now that I love Mexican food, so instead of  waxing poetic about the various influences that have colored my fondness for all fare south-of-the-border, let me explain what makes cooking dishes like this so appealing.

For me, a bowl of chile-braised pork sitting in my refrigerator represents a week’s worth of filling meals and tasty snacks to come.  A  3-pound piece of pork shoulder will make somewhere close to twenty tacos.  That’s ten servings coming from a piece of meat that costs somewhere around $11. 00 – $12.00 dollars.  Not a bad deal if you ask me.  Strapped for time on the weeknights?  Make this recipe your “Sunday braise” and reap the benefits of succulent homemade pork for the entire week.  It might take a bit of time and planning to prepare the chile paste, but if you do any kind of Mexican cooking at home, odds are you already have everything you need in your pantry.

If you’re adverse to heat, its important to know that the dried chiles in this recipe render a dish that is by no means spicy, but rather earthy and complex — subtly perfumed with spices like clove, allspice and oregano.  Still, as delicious as this may be, even I can tire of tacos. Fortunately, this recipe makes for an outstanding all-purpose Mexican pork.  It’s just as delicious in a burrito, rolled up with beans, sour cream, salsa and guac, or in a cheesy quesadilla. I’ve even had it alongside eggs or topped on tortilla chips like mini tostadas. Next time I’ll be throwing it in a soft roll and serving it as a torta.

CHILE-BRAISED PORK TACOS

Adapted from Rick Bayless’s Mexican Kitchen

Outside of making and searing the chile paste, this recipe is as easy to put together as any other slow-braised pot roast.  When soaking the chiles, I like to make sure they are completely covered by the warm water by adding in a smaller, inverted bowl to keep them submerged for the full 30 minutes.  If you don’t have any guajillo chiles on hand in the pantry, try substituting New Mexico or California chiles.  Don’t have any dried chipotles? Use the canned ones packed in adobo instead.  Searing the chile paste in a hot pan is an essential step in the development and concentration of chile flavor in this dish — stir constantly to avoid scorching and watch out for splattering.  This dish can be completed through step 4 and refrigerated overnight.  If you decide to go down that route, store the meat separately  from any leftover braising liquid and reheat them together over low heat before serving.  Finally, I like to warm and toast my tortillas slightly over an open gas flame.  After flipping them a few times to make them pliable, stack them wrapped in tin foil or a clean kitchen towel until ready to serve.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 medium dried ancho chiles, stemmed and seeded
• 4 medium dried guajillo chiles, stemmed and seeded
• 1 dried chipotle chile, stemmed and seeded
• 2 bay leaves
• 2 tablespoons cider vinegar
• 1/2 small white onion, roughly chopped (plus a few thinly sliced rings for garnish)
• 2 cloves of garlic, roughly chopped
• 1 teaspoon dried Mexican oregano
• 1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
• Pinch of ground cloves
• 1 1/2 tablespoon vegetable oil
• 1/2 teaspoon table salt (plus more to taste)
• 3 pounds, boneless pork shoulder
• Warm corn tortillas
• Sour cream, hot sauce, thinly sliced radishes and cilantro, for garnish

METHOD:

1. Place the chiles in a small bowl, cover with very warm water and let stand for 30 minutes.  Drain, reserving 2/3 cup of the soaking liquid, then transfer the rehydrated chiles and the reserved liquid to a blender.
2. Pulverize the bay leaves in a spice grinder or mortar and pestle and add them to the blender along with the vinegar, onion, garlic, oregano, allspice and cloves.  Process to a smooth puree, adding water if needed to keep the mixture moving through the blades.  Press through a medium mesh strainer into a bowl.
3. Set a large, 6-quart pot with a lid over medium-high heat and add the oil.  When very hot and almost smoking, pour in the puree and stir constantly until it sears, concentrates and darkens into a spicy-smelling paste, about 5 minutes.  Remove the pot from heat and season the sauce with salt.
4. Preheat the oven to 325°.  Cut the pork shoulder into slabs about 3-inches thick.  Lay the meat into the pot with the chile paste, then flip it over to cover evenly, spooning on more sauce over the top to coat the pork well.  Pour 1/2 cup water around the meat, cover tightly and place in the oven.  Roast for 2 1/2 hours, basting the meat every 30 minutes with the liquid and rendered fat that accumulates.  If all of the moisture evaporates, feel free to add more water to the plan to allow you to continue basting. Let the pork rest for 20-30 minutes before serving.
5. Shred or pull the meat apart into-bite size pieces using two forks.  Toss the meat to incorporate any of the leftover chile braising liquid, check for seasoning and add more salt to taste.
6. Place the chile pork in a warm bowl and serve alongside the warm corn tortillas.  Have your guests assemble their own tacos, adding their own garnishes to taste.

Makes about 20 tacos

Let’s be honest — this dish isn’t going to be winning any beauty pageants anytime soon.  With it’s reddish-brown color scheme and thick, chili-like texture, this isn’t the type of recipe that turns many heads on Foodgawker or Tastespotting.  So, like a friend who’s just set you up on a blind date with an aesthetically challenged individual, I implore you to move past its humble appearance and try to get to know the soul of this comforting dish.

For me, this is cold weather fare at its best.  A warm, stick-to-your-ribs type meal that’s like a hug from a loved one.  Creamy lentils and sausages combine to produce a dish that is both high in protein and rich in savory flavor.  The best part? It’s cheap and simple to make.  In fact, you probably already have everything to make it your kitchen.  All you really need is a handful of lentils, a few sausages from the fridge, a leftover glass of wine, and you can have a filling and satisfying meal at a moment’s notice.  This is hearty food that reheats well and makes great leftovers.

If looks don’t matter, you might have found your new soul mate.

SAUSAGE AND LENTIL STEW

I like to use French green lentils in this recipe because they hold their shape and retain great texture when cooked for long periods of time.  If you don’t have any on hand, feel free to substitute brown lentils but expect a slightly different finished texture.  If you want a healthier version of this stew, omit the bacon and pour off all of the rendered sausage fat after browning.  If you decide to go down this route, simply substitute a couple of tablespoons of good olive oil before cooking the vegetables.  Feel free to use any herbs or spices you have lying around your kitchen.  I’ve made this with everything from rosemary to curry powder with excellent results, so experiment away. Finally, I’ve found that other sausages work well in this application.  Merguez and goat would also make for a stellar stew.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 slices smoky bacon
• 4 sweet or hot Italian sausages, cut into 1-inch pieces
  
• 1 cup petite French lentils, rinsed and drained
• 1 cup diced carrot
• 1 medium onion, diced
• 5 cloves garlic, finely chopped
• 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leave
• Crushed red pepper flakes
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 cup dry red wine
• 1 14-ounce can tomatoes, crushed
• 2 cups chicken stock
• 2 roasted red peppers, sliced 1/4-inch thick
• 4 sprigs of parsley
  
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
• 1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
  
• Chopped parsley for garnish

METHOD:

1. Set a large, heavy-bottomed pot over moderately-low heat and cook bacon until the fat has rendered.  Using a slotted spoon, remove the bacon from the pot and set aside.  Increase the heat to moderately-high and brown the sausage pieces in the reserved bacon fat.  Be careful not to crowd the pot; fry the sausages in separate batches if necessary.  Once they are sufficiently caramelized (about 8 minutes per batch), remove the browned sausage pieces to a plate using a slotted spoon.
   
2. Lower the heat to moderate and add in the carrots, onion and garlic. Sauté until softened and just beginning to brown, about 10 minutes.  Add in the crushed red pepper flakes, bay leaves and thyme and sauté another 5 minutes.  Add in the red wine to deglaze and scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the pot with the back of a wooden spoon.  Allow the wine to reduce by half before adding the lentils, tomatoes, chicken stock, red peppers and parsley.
3. Add the cooked bacon and sausages back into the pot along with any juices that may have collected.  Stir to mix well and bring to a boil.  Turn down the heat and simmer for an hour, or until the lentils are just al dente.  Stir occasionally to prevent scorching.
   
4. Stir in the balsamic vinegar and season the lentil stew with salt and pepper to taste.  Garnish with chopped parsley and serve.

Serves 4

My friends were teasing me the other night for my frequent use of the word “unctuous” in some of my previous posts. I sure wish I had used a bit more restraint, because if there was ever an adjective to describe this lamb ragù, it would be just that. This is the kind of hearty pasta dish that I crave during the cold winter months. Not only does it fill your home with the warm, inviting scent of spice-braised lamb, but the resulting sauce is as fine as any you will find coming out of a restaurant kitchen. The best part? It can be made a full day ahead of when you plan on serving it.

This recipe is an adaptation of one I’ve made in the past from chef Andrew Carmellini of Locanda Verde in New York. Where the Food and Wine recipe calls for the use of ground lamb and a quick simmer, I opt to slow-braise chunks of lamb shoulder or stew meat over a few hours for a more rustic finished sauce. Either way you decide to go, you’ll find that the combination of the savory lamb ragù, creamy ricotta cheese and herbaceous mint is a truly spectacular one. It’s definitely worth your time to seek out pappardelle if you can find it at your local grocery store or Italian deli. The long, ribbon-like noodles are quite sturdy when cooked properly and provide the perfect companion for thick, meat-laden sauces like this one. If you’re a fan of lamb in any capacity, give this recipe a try — I promise you won’t be disappointed.

PAPPARDELLE WITH LAMB RAGÙ, RICOTTA AND MINT

The secret behind an intense, flavor-packed ragù like this one comes from the methodical layering of flavor. Take your time while searing the lamb, making sure to achieve a rich brown color on all sides before moving on to the next batch. I personally like to use bone-in stew meat for this sauce because the marrow and extra connective tissue contribute another dimension of lamby-richness to the final sauce — just be sure to remove any bones prior to dressing the pappardelle. Whatever you do, do not overcrowd the pan. You want the lamb to have the opportunity to fry in the olive oil, not poach in its own juices. I like to tie the thyme, rosemary and bay leaf together with a bit of kitchen twine for easy removal at the end of braising. When sautéing the vegetables, be sure to drive away as much moisture as possible before caramelizing the tomato paste and deglazing with the wine. This step ensures a deeper tomato flavor and helps promote the development of a rich fond. Finally, as with all pasta, be sure to boil the pappardelle in an abundance of well-salted water.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 pounds boneless lamb shoulder, cut into 2-inch cubes or 3 pounds bone-in lamb stew meat
• 2 teaspoons ground coriander
• 1 teaspoon ground fennel seeds
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
• Kosher salt
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 1 carrot, finely diced
• 1 rib of celery, finely diced
• 1 onion, finely diced
• 1 tablespoon tomato paste
• 1/2 cup dry red wine
• 2 branches of fresh rosemary
• 5 sprigs fresh thyme
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 28-ounce can diced tomatoes
• 2 cups chicken stock
• 3/4 pound pappardelle
• 3/4 cup fresh whole-milk ricotta cheese
• 1/4 cup chopped mint

METHOD:

1. Preheat the oven to 300°. In a small bowl, combine the coriander, fennel and cumin to create a fragrant spice rub. Lighly season the lamb on both sides with Kosher salt and sprinkle the meat evenly with the spice rub.
2. Heat olive oil in a large dutch oven over moderately-high heat. In batches sear the lamb on all sides until richly browned, about 10 minutes per batch. Remove the browned meat to a plate and repeat with the remaining lamb.
3. Add the carrot, onion and celery to the reserved oil/fat in the pan and sauté the vegetables until just beginning to brown, about 7-8 minutes. Stir often to prevent scorching. Push the vegetables to the side of the pot to create a hot-spot in the center. Add the tomato paste and stir constantly until it becomes a few shades darker and releases its bright red oils, about 3 minutes. Stir to combine the tomato paste and vegetables.
4. Add the wine to deglaze the pot, scraping up any browned bits with a wooden spoon. Allow the wine to reduce until almost completely evaporated before adding in the tomatoes, stock, rosemary, thyme and bay leaf. Return the browned lamb to the pot along with any accumulated juices. Bring the pot to a boil and then reduce the heat to a simmer. Cover tightly and place the pot in the oven. Braise the lamb for 3 hours, checking periodically to make sure that the liquid is not reducing too quickly. Replinish the pot with additional stock or water if the lamb looks like it is getting too dry.
5. Remove the pot from the oven and allow the sauce to cool slightly before skimming off any accumulated fat. Now is the time to remove any bones. Season the sauce to taste with Kosher salt. The ragù can be refrigerated overnight at this point.
6. Meanwhile, in a large pot of boiling, salted water, cook the pasta until al dente. Drain well and add the pasta to the sauce. Toss gently to dress the pasta with the ragù, breaking up any large chunks of lamb into smaller, bite-size pieces. Serve the pasta in bowls and top with ricotta cheese and chopped mint.

Serves 6

I’ll be the first to admit that I was bit skeptical the first time I came across a menu item that featured store-bought soda like Coca-Cola.  Convinced that the ingredient was completely superfluous and included solely for the sake of novelty, it wasn’t until I dug into a plate of tender, fall-of-the-bone, Dr. Pepper braised beef short ribs at the Roaring Fork in Scottsdale, Arizona, that I realized it was no gimmick.

I’d like to say that braising meat with the addition of soda brings a flavor to dishes that is unparalleled in complexity and nuance, but after using it as a medium in other dishes, I’ve found it simply contributes a unique, savory sweetness.  This flavor profile seems especially well suited for a tough, fatty cut of meat like brisket.  Long, slow simmering renders what is otherwise a notoriously chewy cut of beef into an unctuous, meltingly-tender meal that is perfect for the cold months ahead.  In the end, it’s amazing how a tough, budget cut of beef and a handful of cheap pantry ingredients can come together to create a dish that is as satisfying and filling this one. I know it looks like the cover image of a Hungry-Man TV dinner, but trust me, this stuff is comfort food at it’s best.

COCA-COLA BRAISED BEEF BRISKET

Adapted from the April, 2004 issue of Food and Wine Magazine

Keep a close eye on the brisket during the initial searing process as the spice rub is high in sugar and will have the propensity to burn if the heat is not controlled.  Before you place the meat in the oven to braise, tightly cover the pot with a few pieces of aluminum foil to create tight seal before adding the lid.  This dish can be prepared through Step #6 and refrigerated overnight.  This will not only allow you to easily remove any solidified fat from the pan sauce, but will also improve the meat’s overall flavor from a rest overnight in it’s flavorful juices.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons brown sugar
• 1 tablespoon Kosher salt
• 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
• 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 1/2 teaspoon sweet paprika
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
• 1/4 teaspoon unsweetened cocoa powder
• 1/4 teaspoon ground coriander
• 1/4 teaspoon white pepper
• One 2 1/2 – 3 pound beef brisket, trimmed
• 1 1/2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 2 large onions sliced 1/2-inch thick
• 1 pound carrots, sliced 1/8-inch thick on a bias
• 1 cup coca-cola
• 1 14-ounce can crushed tomatoes
• 2 tablespoons ketchup
  

METHOD:

1. Combine the brown sugar, salt, garlic powder, cayenne, paprika, black pepper, cinnamon, cocoa powder, coriander and white pepper in a small bowl.  Make sure the spices are well incorporated and rub the mixture evenly into the beef.  Set the brisket in a baking dish, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.
2. Preheat the oven to 325°.  Heat the vegetable oil in a large dutch oven over medium-high heat.  Place the brisket into the pot, fat side down, and sear the meat until richly browned, about 6 minutes per side.  Transfer to a plate.
3. Add the sliced onions to the oil left in the pot and cook until softened, about 12-15 minutes.  Keep the pot covered and stir frequently to prevent burning.  Add the carrots, cover and cook, stirring until softened, about 5 more minutes.  Transfer onions and carrots to a bowl.
4. Deglaze the pan by adding in the coca-cola, tomatoes and ketchup.  Scrape the bottom of the pot with the back of a wooden spoon to dissolve all of the brown, caramelized bits.
5. Carefully add the brisket back to the dutch oven along with any accumulated juices.  Place the carrots and onions around the meat.  If needed, add enough water to keep the meat half-submerged in liquid.  Cover the pot tightly with aluminum foil before closing the lid.  Place in the oven to slowly braise for 3 hours.
6. Gently remove the brisket from its braising liquid and allow to rest on a board, tented with aluminum foil for 30 minutes.  Raise the oven temperature to 425°.  Slice the rested meat across the grain into 1/4-inch slices.  Spoon-off any accumulated fat from the top of the juices left in the dutch oven and return the sliced brisket to the pot.
7. Return the pot to the oven, uncovered, and cook until the meat is fork-tender, about 30-40 minutes.  Remove the pot from the oven and let stand for 15 minutes before removing the sliced brisket to a platter.  Spoon over the onions, carrots and sauce and serve immediately.

Serves 5-6

Mac and cheese recipes are a dime a dozen on the net.  If you have a food blog and are even remotely tolerant of dairy, odds are you’ve posted a favorite recipe or unique rendition.  From bacon and blue cheese to truffles and lobster, there are countless offerings out there that claim to offer the ultimate mac and cheese experience. Whether it’s topped with breadcrumbs and baked in the oven or fresh from the stove top, oozing with a gooey melted cheese sauce, I’ve never met a version I haven’t liked.  That being said, in my mind one version stands out among the rest as a truly extraordinary and distinctive twist on the original: green chile mac and cheese.

I first had green chile mac and cheese on a trip to Scottsdale, Arizona for Spring Training with my Dad where we dined at chef Robert McGrath’s flagship, Roaring Fork restaurant.  After amazing, back-to-back dinners we decided to buy the cookbook and attempt to replicate his signature riff on the comfort classic.  Needless to say, the results were a near perfect match.  Simple to prepare, this dish gets it’s deep, smoky flavor from the addition of a puree of roasted poblano chiles.  Add in some heavy cream, a confetti of red bell pepper, sweet corn kernels and a healthy dose of piquant pepper jack cheese and you have a mac and cheese dish worthy of a little excitement.

GREEN CHILE MAC & CHEESE

Adapted from American Western Cooking from the Roaring Fork, by Robert McGrath

Once you have the prep work out of the way, this recipe comes together very quickly.  For instructions on how to roast, peel and puree chiles, check out my recipe for New Mexico Green Chile with Pork. To make this recipe at a moments notice, do what I do and roast extra poblanos to keep on hand in your freezer. Cook the macaroni in a large pot of well-salted, boiling water until al dente.  I like to rinse the pasta under cold running water to halt the cooking process in an effort to maintain as much texture as possible.  This recipe can be doubled very easily and makes a great potluck dish for a large, hungry group of people.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
• 1/4 cup poblano chile, finely diced
• 1/4 cup red bell pepper, finely diced
• 1/4 cup red onion, finely diced
• 1 tablespoon minced garlic
• 1/2 cup sweet corn kernels
• 2 cups cooked elbow macaroni
• 1/2 cup roasted, peeled, and pureed poblano chile
• 3/4 cup heavy cream
• 1/2 cup, grated hot pepper jack cheese
• Kosher salt and cracked black pepper to taste

METHOD:

1. Heat the vegetable oil in a large skillet over high heat.  Add the diced poblano chile, red bell pepper, red onion and garlic and sauté until just tender, about 5 minutes.
2. Add the corn kernels and sauté briefly.
3. Lower the heat to medium and add the macaroni, poblano puree, cream and pepper jack cheese.  Stir gently until the ingredients are thoroughly combined and the cheese is melted.
4. Season to taste with kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper.  Transfer to a medium bowl and serve immediately.

Serves 4 as a side