If you celebrate Cinco de Mayo the way folks around here do, you’re going to need some serious grub to soak up the booze. The following recipes will not only satisfy any Mexican cravings, they’ll also lay down a base coat before your night gets going. Best of all? They can pretty much all be scaled up to feed a crowd. So enjoy responsibly and leave other Cinco de Mayo menu ideas in the comments.

TACOS, TOSTADAS, APPETIZERS

Tacos de Barbacoa

Chile-Braised Pork Tacos

Tacos de Cochinita Pibil

Red Chile Beef Tostadas

Taquitos

SALSAS & DIPS

Avocado-Tomatillo Salsa

Guacamole

Habanero Hot Sauce

Chipotle Bean Dip

Crema Mexicana

ON THE SIDE

Smoky Chipotle Black Beans

NICE & REFRESHING

Agua de Horchata

We’ve all had good spinach dip. A little sour cream, a little cheese, some thawed frozen spinach and you’re in business. It’s the type of party dish you throw out on a table with a few crackers, maybe some slices of toasted baguette, and it’s guaranteed to be gobbled up in a matter of minutes. You may be used to seeing it served cold or at room temperature on most occasions, but those of us who take our dips seriously know that there is nothing quite like a hot version.

Somewhere between a french onion dip and everybody’s favorite green side dish, creamed spinach, this warm rendition satisfies in ways a cold version simply cannot. Just think — all those wonderful, rich flavors that are usually muted by the frosty interior of your refrigerator come alive when warmed through in the oven. Creamy, gooey and indulgent, this spinach dip is guaranteed to become one of your new favorite appetizers. Serve it to guests or bring it to your next potluck, but whatever you do, beware: I’ve seen a small group of people easily polish this off, so it may be worth doubling if you’re serving it for a party.

HOT SPINACH DIP

Adapted from Martha Stewart

This recipe is awesome as a dip and would be just as delicious as a side. While the original version of the recipe calls for three dashes of Worcestershire sauce, each time I’ve made this I find myself using double that — same goes for the hot sauce, too. But that’s my own preference; feel free to play around with flavors. I would even recommend mixing in some freshly grated nutmeg and forgoing the topping of mozzarella, if you’re serving it as a side. I’ve tried this using both fresh and frozen spinach — and a combination of both! — and honestly, the difference isn’t noticeable enough in the finished product to deem one better than the other. Thus, the choice is yours. The frozen spinach is definitely a bit easier — you’ll just add it, completely drained of excess liquid, directly to the cream cheese sauce and then add in the mozzarella cheese.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 teaspoons olive oil, plus more for the baking dish
• 1 medium onion, finely diced
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 2 pounds spinach, cleaned, trimmed, and coarsely chopped, or 2 10-ounce packages frozen chopped spinach, thawed and thoroughly drained
• 1/4 cup stock or water
• 1/2 cup milk
• 6 ounces reduced-fat cream cheese
• Worcestershire sauce, to taste
• Hot sauce, to taste
• 1 cup grated mozzarella
• Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
• Baguette slices, breadsticks, or crackers, for serving

METHOD:

1. Preheat oven to 425 degrees. In a Dutch oven or large pot, heat oil over medium. Add onion and garlic; cook until lightly browned and softened, 5 to 8 minutes.
2. Add spinach in two additions adding a portion of the stock or water with each and cover with a lid. Let the first batch wilt before adding the next; cook until completely wilted, 5 to 8 minutes. Transfer to a colander; drain, pressing to release all excess liquid.
3. In the same pot, warm milk over high heat. Whisk in cream cheese until melted, about 3 minutes. Add spinach, Worcestershire sauce, hot sauce, and 1/2 cup mozzarella; stir to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Pour into a lightly oiled 1 1/2-quart shallow baking dish; sprinkle with remaining 1/2 cup mozzarella.
4. Bake until bubbly and golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Serve hot with accompaniments, as desired.

Makes 3 cups

Looking for good falafel in San Francisco can leave one feeling like Goldilocks.  In a town with so few options to choose from, compared to a city like New York, finding real, quality falafel around here can be hit or miss.  Oftentimes too dry, frequently too large and almost always too dense, my misadventures in the quest for the perfect fritter have lead me to create a recipe that produces perfectly light, moist and delicious falafel every time.  In Goldilocks’ words, these are just right.

Dehydrated chickpeas are soaked overnight and ground with onions, parsley and garlic then seasoned with aromatic spices before being fried to a rich, golden brown. Top with a drizzle of garlic and lemon spiked tahini sauce and you have a version that I’d bet rivals some of the best you’ve ever bought.

FALAFEL

I like to use a meat grinder set with the finest disk to process my garbanzo beans.  If you don’t have one yourself, don’t despair, as falafel made in the food processor will be equally delicious.  Whichever route you choose, make sure to season your mix well and taste it before frying — there is nothing worse than a bland falafel.  Another crucial aspect of producing tender, airy falafel comes from the rolling process.  No matter what you do, DO NOT press and compact the mixture into a tight ball.  Instead, take some of the mixture and apply just enough pressure to have it hold its shape.  It takes a bit of practice at first, but you will be rewarded with beautiful, light falafel in the end.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 lb dried chick peas (garbanzo beans), soaked in water overnight
• 2 red or Spanish onions, coarsely chopped
  
• 2 large garlic cloves, crushed
  
• 1/2 large bunch of parsley
• 2 teaspoons ground cumin
• 2 teaspoons ground coriander
• 2 teaspoons sesame seeds
  
• Kosher salt & cayenne pepper to taste
  
• Canola or vegetable oil for frying
  

METHOD:

1. Drain the chick peas from their soaking liquid and pass them, along with the onion, garlic, parsley, through the finest holes of a meat grinder. Alternatively, place the same ingredients into the bowl of food processor and pulse until the texture is that of a coarse, moist meal.
2. Add the cumin, coriander, sesame seeds, cayenne and salt to the ground mixture. Stir to distribute the spice and allow the mixture to rest for at least a 1/2 hour at room temperature.  Taste a small amount for seasoning and adjust accordingly.
3. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper.  With slightly moistened hands, take walnut-sized lumps (about 2 tablespoons) of the rested falafel mixture from the bowl and gently roll into flat, round shapes, about 1 1/2 inches in diameter.  Place the falafel on the lined sheet pan and repeat with the remaining mix.  Allow rolled falafel balls to rest at least another 15 minutes at room temperature before frying.
4. Pour oil into a 4-qt. Dutch oven to a depth of 2″ and heat over medium-high heat until a deep-fry thermometer registers 350˚. Working in batches, fry the falafel until they are a dark, rich brown color, about 4-5 minutes.  Remove from the oil and drain on paper towels.  Repeat with remaining falafel.
5. Serve the falafel warm or at room temperature along with tahini sauce for drizzling.

Makes about 2 dozen falafel

TAHINI SAUCE

Adapted from Claudia Roden’s A Book of Middle Eastern Food

INGREDIENTS:

• 1-3 cloves garlic, to taste
• Kosher salt, to taste
• Juice of 2 1/2 lemons, or more to taste
• 1/4 pint tahini paste
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
  

METHOD:

1. Crush the garlic with salt to for a paste. Mix it with a little of the lemon juice in a large bowl. Add the tahini paste and mix well.
2. Add the remaining lemon juice and enough cold water to achieve a thick, smooth cream, beating vigorously.
3. Season with salt and cumin; taste and add more lemon juice, garlic or salt until the flavor is fairly strong and tart. Add a few more drops water if too thick. It should be just pourable.

Another day, another classic Mediterranean/Middle-Eastern dip, this time Tzatziki, or Cacik as it’s known in Turkey. (It’s certainly not Irish, but at least I’ve got some green going on!)  Whatever you want to call it, this dip stands out as one of my all-time favorites.  Cool, thick Greek-style yogurt is combined with crisp, refreshing cucumbers and laced with pungent garlic and mint for a concoction that is as good on the humble pita as it is on spicy grilled meats.

Good tzatziki is all about texture.  Yes, balance of flavor is always important, but when it comes to this specific herb-inflected spread, I like mine thick and creamy. Here, liquid is the enemy so my version calls for not one, but two ‘purges’ of moisture (once for the yogurt and once for the cucumbers) in an effort to control the final consistency of the dish.  Now, you can go out and buy thick, Greek-style yogurt at the supermarket, but if you’ve been swept up in its recent trend then you’ve probably already noticed that their not exactly giving that stuff away.  That’s why I buy plain, whole-milk yogurt and drain away the excess whey overnight in the fridge — less money, more moisture control.

This stuff is so refreshing that I’m sure once you try it you’ll be making it for dolloping and dipping throughout the spring and summer months. Plus, once you get the technique for straining the yogurt down, you  can forgo the savory addition of garlic and cucumbers and try drizzling it with honey, stirring in fruit or topping it with granola for an exceptionally delicious breakfast or snack.

TZATZIKI

Making good tzatziki at home requires a bit of patience, but believe me when I tell you that the results are well worth the wait.  Start the recipe the day ahead of when you plan on serving it in order for the whey to drain away from the yogurt. For best results, I’ll sometimes do this by hanging the yogurt from wooden spoon suspended over a deep bowl in the fridge. If you don’t have the refrigerator real estate for this type of setup, you can always drain the yogurt in a cheesecloth lined sieve instead.  If you decide to go the sieve route, stir the yogurt occasionally over the 24 hour period to facilitate the draining of the whey.  Be sure to save this liquid as you might want to add some back in to adjust the consistency of your dip before service.  In another effort to control the water content of the dish, I also have you salt the cucumbers in order to remove further moisture that might dilute the dip.  Once prepared, tzatziki will continue to develop flavor as it sits and is best served just slightly chilled — not straight from the fridge.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 24-ounce container of plain, whole milk yogurt
• 3-4 small Persian cucumbers or about 1 seeded English cucumber.
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint or dill leaves
• 1-2 cloves garlic, finely minced or smashed in a mortar and pestle
• Lemon juice, to taste
• Kosher salt

METHOD:

1. Line a medium bowl with several layers of cheesecloth pour in the contents of the yogurt container. Gather the loose ends of the cheesecloth and fasten them tightly with a rubber band or a length of butcher string.   Suspend the yogurt over a deep bowl in your refrigerator overnight, allowing the liquid to drain away.
2. The following day, pour the strained, thick yogurt into a bowl and reserve some of the whey that has drained away.
3. Peel, dice or grate the cucumbers.  Sprinkle with salt and leave for 1/2 to 1 hour in a colander for the juices to drain.
4. Beat the yogurt in a serving bowl with the minced garlic and the mint or dill (or a combination of both) and fold in the cucumbers.  Season to taste with salt, taking into consideration the residual saltiness of the cucumbers.  Add lemon juice to taste and a splash or two of the reserved whey if the dip is too thick for your tastes.

Makes about 2 cups

Sure, St. Patrick’s Day is right around the corner, and while I could offer you a few variations on classic Irish dishes like corned beef and colcannon, something has me craving Middle Eastern food instead.  So, this week I’ll be posting some of my favorite recipes from Lebanon, Turkey and Israel, all culminating in a dish that will be able to take advantage of each flavorful offering in the group. How about a dip to start?

Like its cousin hummus, baba ganoush is now offered by a myriad of producers and can be found at almost any major grocery store.  While most of it is good, I’ve found that nothing quite compares with a batch of the homemade stuff.  An essential component of any good mezze platter or vegetarian plate at most restaurants, this eggplant dip is as healthy as it is flavorful. For those who’ve never tried it, imagine a smoky spread that is as at once creamy and light, tangy and sweet and as good with warm pita bread at is with crunchy crudite.

At its best, baba is always a contrast of flavors and textures, but the exact ratio of lemon juice to tahini, the consistency from rough chopped to food processor smooth, the addition of a lot or a little garlic, etc. is in the eye mouth of the beholder. And of course, there is no way quite as effective to ensure that a dish is made to your tastes than to make it yourself. So, while I’ve included a handful of measurements in the recipe, keep in mind that they are merely guidelines that can easily be adjusted to suit your own taste, and that technique is what’s most important in creating a outstanding eggplant dip.

BABA GANOUSH

Adapted from Claudia Roden’s, Arabesque a Taste of Morocco, Turkey, and Lebanon

If you have a grill or barbecue sitting in your backyard, this is a great time to take advantage of the smoky flavor that it can add to a dish.  If you don’t feel like starting a fire just to grill some eggplants, char the eggplants under your ovens broiler set on high.  This step is crucial if you are going to attain the smoky flavor that makes baba ganoush so unique.  When your eggplants are cool enough to handle, slice them down the middle and scrape out the flesh with the point of a knife.  Lightly chopping/cutting the eggplant while it is draining in a sieve will not only allow you to remove some of the bitter juices from the flesh, but also control its texture.  If a rustic presentation is not what you are after, simply puree the eggplant in a food processor until the desired consistency is reached.  If you like an especially creamy baba ganosh, add the optional yogurt and whip it into the tahini/lemon mixture before adding the eggplant puree.  Even though you are removing a good amount of bitterness by eliminating the juices from the eggplant, I’ve found that adding a pinch or two of salt can really balance out the acidity of the lemon and counteract any residual bitterness  left in the flesh.  Finally, I like to garnish my baba with a sprinkle of smoked paprika for a nice contrast in color and to reinforce the smoky character of the spread.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 medium eggplants (about 1 1/2 pounds)
• 3 tablespoons tahini
• Juice of 2 lemons
• 2 garlic cloves, crushed
• 3/4 cup to 4/5 cup Greek-style yogurt
• Salt, to taste
• Sugar, to taste
• 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
• Smoked paprika, for garnish

METHOD:

1. Prick the eggplants in a few places with a pointed knife to prevent them from exploding.  Cook the eggplant over the flame of a charcoal barbecue or under the broiler until the skin is charred all over and they feel very soft when you press them.  Alternatively, you can place them on a foil-lined baking sheet and roast them in your oven set on its highest heat setting for about 45-55 until soft.
2. When cool enough to handle, peel and drop them into a strainer or colander with small holes.  Press out as much of the water and juices as possible.  Still in the colander, chop the flesh with a pointed knife, then mash it with a fork or wooden spoon, letting the juices escape through the holes.  Adding a tiny squeeze of lemon juice help to keep the puree looking pale and appetizing.
3. In a bowl, beat the tahini with the lemon juice (the tahini stiffens at first then softens), then beat in the yogurt if you are including it.  Add the mashed eggplant, garlic to taste, and a good pinch of salt.  Beat vigorously and taste to adjust flavoring.
4. Spread the puree onto a flat serving dish or bowl and garnish with a drizzle of olive oil, a sprinkling of parsley and a pinch of smoked paprika. For best flavor, serve at room temperature.

Makes about 2 cups

Let me start by saying that this is a recipe for guacamole the way I like to eat it.  Not too chunky, definitely not too smooth, bright with lime juice, and not a tomato or garlic clove in sight.  That’s right — I like to leave out the garlic and diced tomato you sometimes find in other recipes because I want the avocado to be the star.  In fact, I find the addition of garlic, even in small amounts, tends to overpower the delicate flavor of a good avocado. So, what makes my version so unique? Nothing special, really.  Just a few basic techniques that I find produce a perfectly textured, beautifully balanced guac that is as good as a dip with chips as it is a condiment on burritos, tacos and enchiladas.

My guacamole starts with ripe avocados — not the hard, vegetal tasting variety that you’re likely to find when they’ve just been delivered to your local supermarket.  With avocado prices what they are these days, in my opinion, it’s not worth the time or money to make guacamole unless you can find soft-ripe, buttery avocados to do so with.  This sometimes takes some careful planning, giving slightly under-ripe specimens the appropriate time needed to reach the proper level of ripeness.  Next, I give my guacamole a nice, healthy dose of freshly squeezed lime juice for a clean, citrusy note and finely minced serrano chiles and “deflamed” red onion for a bit of heat and textural contrast.  Finished with a bit of chopped cilantro and a good dash of salt and I’m left with a true a crowdpleaser.

This recipe doubles easily, so next time you have a group of friends coming over or are tasked with the duty of bringing a dip to your next potluck, throw out a bowl of this guacamole and watch it disappear.

GUACAMOLE

Good guacamole starts with soft-ripe avocados.  Make sure to look for avocados that yield slightly when gently pressed on their rounded blossom end.  Even the most perfect avocados can have a few dark spots here and there, so be sure to remove those once you get the flesh out of their skins.  Tossing the diced avocado in the lime juice will prevent oxidation from occurring while you prepare your other ingredients.  Be careful not mash the avocado during this step however, or you will be left with smooth puree by the time you’ve had a chance to incorporate your other ingredients.  Everyone’s tastes are different — if you are not a fan of red onion or cilantro, feel free to leave them out.  If you like diced tomatoes in your guac, add them in with the chiles before bringing everything together.  If you decide to make the guacamole earlier in the day, store it in the refrigerator by laying a sheet of plastic wrap directly on the surface of the dip to avoid that brown color that comes from oxidation.

INGREDIENTS

• 3 large (about 1 1/2 pounds) soft-ripe avocados
  
• 1-2 tablespoons fresh squeezed lime juice (from about half of a large lime)
• 1/2 cup finely diced red onion (from about half of a small onion)
• 1 – 2 serrano chiles, minced
• 1/4 cup chopped cilantro, lightly packed
• 1 1/2 teaspoon Kosher salt, plus more to taste
  

METHOD:

1. Begin by slicing each avocado in half, running your knife around the pit from stem to blossom end.  Remove the pit from each avocado by gently lodging the heel of your blade into them and twisting slightly to break them free from the flesh.  Making sure not slice through the skin, carefully score each avocado half in a 1/2-inch crosshatch pattern.  Using a large spoon, gently scoop the flesh out of each half into a large bowl.
2. Pour the freshly squeezed lime juice over the diced avocado and gently fold to coat each piece.  You’re not looking to mash the avocado at this point, just toss it with lime juice to prevent oxidation.
3. Scoop the finely diced red onion into a strainer and rinse it under cold running water to remove some of its pungency.  Drain the onion well before throwing it in on top of the diced avocado in the bowl.  Do not stir to incorporate at this point.
4. Toss in the minced chiles, chopped cilantro and salt.  Stir, lightly mashing the avocado with the back of a spoon or rubber spatula until all the ingredients are well incorporated and you’ve reached your desired texture/consistency.  Allow the guacamole to sit for at least 30 minutes at room temperature in order for the flavors to come together.  Taste for salt and acidity, adjusting as necessary.
5. Serve at room temperature for optimal flavor.

Makes about 2 cups

I know what you’re thinking — two recipes for chicken wings in three posts?  It might be a bit excessive, but the fact of the matter is, I can’t get enough of them. I love wings, my friends love wings and if the rising price of chicken wings counts for anything, so does the rest of America.  So, for all my readers who might not might not be into the fish sauce or sweet chili-glazed variety, I’m here to offer you a recipe and proper technique for the classic New York-style buffalo wing.

I grew up eating hot wings from a local Bay Area chain called Original Buffalo Wings.  On the nights we were lucky enough to call them dinner, my Mom would order up a “double dozen” along with a bag of fresh fried potato chips and an extra side of blue cheese dip for the crispy (albeit anemic) celery sticks.  Bathed in a velvety, vinegary coating of hot sauce, the wings always remained crisp — a textual enigma which I long considered a well-kept secret of the buffalo wing trade.  Having made these a handful of times now, I can tell you that there are actually few secrets to a great wing.  Just get a hold of some fresh, meaty chicken wings, dry them well to promote even browning, fry them in small batches, toss them with Frank’s RedHot sauce and a bit of margarine (gasp!) and you’ll be left with the the quintessential, finger-lickin’ good buffalo wing.

BUFFALO WINGS

Getting the wings as dry as possible before frying them is a crucial step in achieving a crispy, golden brown wing.  As always, fry the wings in batches that will not overwhelm the pot and drop your oil temperature too dramatically.  In fact, I’ll sometimes allow the oil to exceed 350° in anticipation of drop of 20-30 degrees.  This recipe calls for the use of margarine, an ingredient that I rarely, if ever, use in my cooking.  I’ve tried making them with butter and they simply just don’t turn out the same.  If you are dead-set against using margarine, consider using clarified butter — the absence of the milk solids and water should allow the hot sauce to easily emulsify.  When you are ready to toss the wings with the buffalo sauce, make sure to give it another good whisk as it tends to separate a bit while it sits.  Any hot sauce will do in this recipe, but the wings you’ve eaten in restaurants were probably made using Frank’s.  If you like your wings really hot, simply adjust the ratio of hot sauce to margarine.

INGREDIENTS:

• Peanut, canola, grapeseed or vegetable oil for Frying
• 2 pounds chicken wings (about 20), separated at the joint, wingtips removed
• 6 tablespoons margarine
• 1/2 cup Frank’s RedHot Original Cayenne Pepper Sauce (plus more to taste)
• 3 ribs of celery, sliced into 3-inch lengths
• 3/4 cup blue cheese dip (recipe follows)

METHOD:

1. Preheat oven to 200° F.  Pour oil into a heavy medium pot until it reaches a depth of 2-inches.  Heat oil over medium heat until it reaches 350° F on a candy thermometer.
2. Meanwhile, dry the wings thoroughly on paper towels to remove all residual moisture.  Working in batches, fry the wings until they are golden brown and cooked through, about 10 minutes.  Be sure to stir the wings occasionally to prevent them from sticking together.  Transfer the cooked wings to a wire rack set over a paper towel-lined baking sheet and keep them warm in the oven. Repeat frying procedure with the remaining wings.
3. Make the sauce by melting the margarine in a small saucepan over medium heat.  Add the hot sauce and whisk to combine.
4. When you are ready to serve, transfer the chicken wings to a large bowl, pour over the hot sauce mixture and toss until they are thoroughly coated.  Serve immediately with celery stick and blue cheese dip.

Makes 20 Wings

BLUE CHEESE DIP

You can think of this dip as a slightly thicker version of blue cheese dressing.  If you don’t have chives, use green onions.  Feel free to adjust the amount of sour cream and heavy cream to reach a consistency that fits your own personal taste.  If you have the time, make this earlier in the day and place it in the refrigerator to allow the flavors to come together.  Serve cold or at room temperature.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1/4 pound Danish blue cheese, crumbled
• 3 tablespoons heavy cream
• 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
• 1/4 – 1/3 cup sour cream
• 1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
• Hot sauce to taste
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 2 tablespoons minced chives

METHOD:

1. Combine the blue cheese, heavy cream and lemon juice in a small bowl.
2. Add sour cream 1 tablespoon at a time, whisking to combine.
3. Add in the Worcestershire and hot sauce and season to taste with salt and pepper.
4. Fold in minced chives and let stand at least 5 minutes before serving.

NFL Football playoffs start this weekend and that means it’s time to bust out the heavy hitting game day recipes.  We’ve got wings, mozzarella sticks, and potato skins covered, but I thought it was high time to break out a recipe for a good old-fashioned American dip — Bean Dip.

I know, I know, bean dip sounds boring.  Surely guacamole and salsa seem to steal the show anytime tortilla chips are broken out, but I assure you, this is no ordinary jarred bean dip.  First off, we’re making our own pinto beans.  That’s right, from the very get-go this is a homemade affair which means you can load as much flavor into this seemingly humble dip as possible.  Slow simmered with smoked pork, cumin seeds, oregano, onion and garlic there is no canned pinto bean on earth that can match that flavor.  Next off, we add spicy chipotle chiles for maximum punch and savory, smoky undertones.  After a dollop of two of sour cream to cool everything down and lend a velvety texture, the whole thing is topped with cheese and thrown into the oven until piping hot and gooey.

I promise, you’ve never tasted bean dip this good.  It’s fantastic served alongside some thick, crispy tortilla chips and dare I say, even better with Fritos Scoops. But if you’re feeling truly badass, try using it as the backbone for a homemade 7-layer dip and taste the rainbow of game day paradise.

CHIPOTLE BEAN DIP

Adapted from The Feast of Santa Fe: Cooking from the American Southwest, Huntley Dent

For this recipe, I wholeheartedly recommend that you cook your pinto beans from scratch.  Not only will you infuse them with outstanding flavor in the process, but the flavorful broth that remains is essential for reaching the perfect bean dip consistency.  If you are strapped for time, don’t feel too bad about using canned beans — you’ll still have one damn good dip.  Here I recommend using anywhere between 2-4 chipotle chiles, but you should also feel free to add more or less depending on your tolerance for heat.  The texture of the final dip is of the utmost importance.  Start out by adding about 1/4-1/3 cup of the bean liquid and adjust to your desired consistency from there.  Cheese can be blended into the dip if desired or simply sprinkled on top before baking.  The dip can be eaten at room temperature, but it tastes its best when warm.  Finally, you can assemble the bean dip ahead of time (allow time for longer heating in the oven if it is straight from the refrigerator), just be sure to press the plastic wrap down onto the surface of the dip to avoid the development of a crusty skin.

INGREDIENTS:

For the Beans:

• 1 cup dried pinto beans, soaked overnight and drained
• 1/2 onion, whole or coarsely chopped
• 2 cloves of garlic, coarsely chopped
• 2 slices bacon, coarsely chopped
• 1/2 teaspoon whole cumin seeds
• 1/4 teaspoon cracked black pepper
• 1/4 teaspoon oregano
• 1 bay leaf
• Water to cover

For the Chipotle Bean Dip:

• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1/2 onion, diced
• 2 cups pinto beans with 1/2 cup reserved cooking liquid (see above)
• 1/4 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
• 2-4 canned chipotles in adobo
• 1/4 cup sour cream
• 1 teaspoon Kosher salt, plus more to taste
• 1/3 cup cheddar or jack cheese, grated
• 1 tablespoons chopped cilantro (optional)
• Tortilla chips for serving

METHOD:

1. Make the beans: Put the beans in a pot along with all of the remaining ingredients and cover everything with water by 2-inches.  Bring the pot to a boil over high heat and then turn the heat down and cook at a steady simmer for about 1 1/2 hours, or until the beans are very tender.  Be sure to stir the beans occasionally to ensure even cooking along the way and skim off any foam that rises to the surface.
2. Drain the beans of their cooking liquid, making sure to reserve at least 1/2 cup of their flavorful broth.  Remove the pieces of bacon (you can use some of them in the dip if you want) and discard the bay leaf.  Set the beans aside to cool.
3. Make the Chipotle Bean Dip: Preheat the oven to 375°. Heat the olive oil in a small skillet set over medium-low heat.  When the oil is hot, add the onions, cover the pan and allow them to sweat for 5 minutes or so.  Remove the cover and raise the heat to medium.  Fry the onions, stirring often until they are well-browned, about 8 minutes.  Remove the pan from heat and allow the onions to cool a bit.
4. In the bowl of an electric food processor, combine the beans, the onions and their oil, chipotle chiles, cracked black pepper, sour cream and salt.  Add in about 1/3 cup of the reserved cooking liquid at first to aid in the processing of the ingredients (you can add more later to reach your desired consistency) and process until a slightly coarse puree is reached (you do not want the mixture completely smooth).  Taste for salt and pepper and adjust as needed.  Add more bean liquid or sour cream if a thinner or creamier texture is desired.
5. Transfer the bean mixture from the bowl of the food processor to a small, ovenproof baking dish.  Sprinkle on the cheese and cover the baking dish with aluminum foil. Place the dip in the oven and cook until warm throughout and the cheese is melted, about 15 minutes.  If a bubbly crust is desired, remove the tin foil during the last few minutes of baking and turn on the broiler to high until lightly browned.  Garnish with chopped cilantro and serve immediately with crispy tortilla chips.

Makes about 2 1/2 cups

For me, peanut sauce served as a definitive gateway flavor into what would be come a lifelong addiction to Thai cuisine. Having grown up on a steady diet of peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, it wasn’t until I first tasted the peanut sauce that accompanied my Mom’s chicken satay from the Thai spot in our mall food court that I came to realize that peanut butter could be used in savory dishes as well. To my young developing palate, peanut sauce was at once exotic and familiar.  Salty, sweet and rich with warm Thai spices, the run-of-the-mill skewered chicken soon became a vehicle for what I really wanted: the sauce.

I’ve made many versions of peanut sauce over the years and have come to recognize this rendition as my go-to, all-purpose recipe.  Used as a dip, tossed with rice noodles or as a condiment for jasmine rice, I’m sure you’ll find this sauce has many amazing applications.  While some recipes include everything from soy sauce and grated ginger to garlic and chili sauce, this particular version gets it’s nuance and depth from aromatic Thai curry paste.  Along with a few other simple yet flavorful ingredients, it’s the paste that takes this sauce to the next level and lend it that authentic taste.  It goes without saying that a fresh, homemade curry paste will render an exceptionally fragrant final sauce, but if you’re strapped for time, store-bought red curry paste from a jar makes a perfectly suitable alternative.

THAI PEANUT SAUCE

Adapted from Victor Sodsook’s, True Thai: The Modern Art of Thai Cooking

This is a simple and forgiving recipe with very few ingredients that comes together quite quickly.   It’s easy to adjust the final sauce to suit your own taste.  Some brands of peanut butter can already be a bit sweet, so feel free to scale back the amount of brown sugar called for in the recipe.  This recipe makes a rich, thick sauce that can easily be thinned out with warm water or more coconut milk if a lighter consistency is preferred.  I will also sometimes add a bit of lime juice along with the fish sauce to cut through the richness for certain applications.  Expect a lot of sauce, but don’t worry; it keeps well refrigerated for up to 3 weeks. Finally, too high of heat during the cooking process can break the sauce, separating the oil from the rest of the ingredients.  If this happens, don’t panic.  Simply lower the heat and whisk the sauce vigorously to reincorporate the oil.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 can (14-ounces) unsweetened coconut milk
• 6 tablespoons homemade panang, masaman or store-bought red curry paste
• 2/3 cup peanut butter (chunky or smooth)
• 7 tablespoons light or dark brown sugar
• 2 tablespoons fish sauce

METHOD:

1. Heat the coconut milk in a medium saucepan set over medium heat, stirring occasionally until it has reaches a gentle boil.
2. Add the curry paste and stir until well incorporated and fragrant, about 3 minutes.
3. Add in the peanut butter and cook, stirring constantly for about 1 minute.
4. Reduce the heat to low and add in the brown sugar, stirring until dissolved.
5. Remove the peanut sauce from the heat and stir in the fish sauce.  Thin with warm water if a lighter consistency is desired.
6. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Makes about 2 1/2 cups

To be completely honest, I didn’t even realize these crispy bites were referred to as crab rangoon until recently.  Growing up, these crab and cream cheese filled wontons were known as crab cheese puffs at my family’s favorite Chinese take-out spot.  I’m pretty sure those guys were skimping on the crab because all I can remember is chomping down into a warm glob of scallion-flecked cream cheese.  Don’t get me wrong, dipped into hot Chinese mustard and highlighter-red sweet and sour sauce, I wasn’t complaining.  Today, wiser and bit more sophisticated, I need that crab.

It’s dungeness crab season here in the Bay Area, and while there might be better dishes out there that highlight the sweet, succulent flesh of these delicious creatures, crab rangoon seems like a perfectly festive nibble to serve as an hors d’oeuvre at any last minute holiday parties.  My version features a bunch of thinly sliced green onions, Worcestershire sauce for added savory depth and just a bit of grated ginger and lemon juice to cut through the richness of the cream cheese.

CRAB RANGOON WITH SWEET AND SOUR DIPPING SAUCE

There really isn’t much to putting together this recipe.  Filling and sealing the wontons can be tricky at first, but after you complete a few of them you’ll get in a groove and bang out the rest in no time.  If you’re having any difficulty sealing the wrapper around the filling, start out by using less filling until you get the hang of the process.  Make sure to eliminate as many air bubbles as possible when sealing the wontons as they can result in holes once they hit the hot oil.  The wontons will have the propensity to float to the surface when frying, so stand guard and keep them submerged with a wire spider/skimmer and flip them periodically to ensure even browning.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1/2 pound fresh crab meat, picked over for any shell fragments
• 8 ounces cream cheese, softened
  
• 1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
• 1/2 teaspoon soy sauce
• 1/2 teaspoon grated ginger
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
  
• 1-2 green onions, sliced paper thin
• Freshly ground black pepper to taste
  
• 24 store-bought wonton skins
• 1 tablespoon cornstarch
• 2 tablespoons water
• 1 egg yolk
• Oil for frying
  

METHOD:

1. In a large bowl, combine the fresh crab meat with the cream cheese.  Fold in the remaining ingredients up to the wonton wrappers. Taste for seasoning and set aside.
   
2. Create the wonton sealing mixture by dissolving the cornstarch in the 2 tablespoons of water.  Add the egg yolk and stir until well-incorporated and smooth.  Set sealing mixture aside.
   
3. Working one wonton at a time, place a dough wrapper on a work surface and fill it with 1 heaping teaspoon of the crab filling.  Dip your finger in the egg/cornstarch sealing mixture and lightly paint the border of the wonton wrapper.  Fold over the edges of the wrapper to create a triangle while encasing the crab filling, pressing to seal the edges with your fingertips.  Using the back of a fork, ensure that the wontons are sealed by gently crimping the borders to create a fluted edge.  Repeat with remaining wontons.
4. Preheat oven to 200°.  Heat oil in a large, heavy-bottomed pot until it reaches the temperature of 350°.  Working in batches, fry the wontons until crispy and golden brown, about 3-4 minutes.  Drain the wontons on paper towels and keep them warm in the oven while you continue frying the remaining batches.  Serve warm with sweet and sour dipping sauce and/or hot Chinese mustard.
   

Makes 24 wontons

SWEET AND SOUR DIPPING SAUCE

Adapted from Irene Kuo’s, The Key to Chinese Cooking

Much more complex in terms of flavor and not quite as sweet as the translucent, neon-red version served in most Chinese restaurants, this sweet and sour sauce is a terrific compliment to homemade crab rangoon.  Batter and fry up some pork, chop some fresh pineapple and toss in a few tablespoons of sauce for a homemade version of sweet and sour pork.  If the sauce isn’t sweet enough for your tastes, whisk in the optional honey while the sauce is still warm.

INGREDIENTS:

• 5 tablespoons granulated sugar
  
• 1/2 teaspoon table salt
• 4 tablespoons distilled white vinegar
  
• 3 tablespoons light soy sauce
• 2 tablespoons dry sherry or Chinese rice wine
• 3 tablespoons ketchup
• 2 tablespoons peanut or vegetable oil
  
• 1 large clove garlic, peeled and lightly crushed
• 1 tablespoon cornstarch dissolved in 3 tablespoons of water
• 1 tablespoon sesame oil
• 1/2 cup water
• 1 tablespoon honey (optional)
  

METHOD:

1. Combine the sugar, salt, vinegar, soy, sherry, and ketchup in a bowl and stir until sugar is dissolved.  In a separate small bowl, combine the cornstarch/water mixture with the sesame oil and set aside.
2. Heat the peanut or vegetable oil in a medium saucepan set over moderate heat until hot.  Add in the garlic and stir, pressing on the clove until aromatic and lightly browned.
3. Pour in the sauce slowly and stir with the back of a wooden spoon until the liquid comes to a boil.  Turn the heat down to low and add in the cornstarch mixture, stirring until sauce begins to thicken.  Add in the water slowly, stirring until the sauce is smooth and bubbly.  Turn off the heat and set aside to cool.  The sauce can be made in advance as it holds well in the refrigerator for many days and can be frozen for weeks without losing flavor.

Makes about 2 cups