This past Sunday, I set out to put together the mother of all Mother’s Day brunches for the woman who is largely responsible for my undying passion for food.  In an effort to pull out all the stops for this year’s celebration, I decided to cure my own gravlax for an over-the-top meal that would show my appreciation for all that she has done for me. Convinced my offering would exhibit a bit of advanced culinary know-how and finesse, I was certain that such a meal would surely outdo any boring old Benedict.

Having never cured salmon before, I was completely caught off guard by how simple and hands-off the whole curing process was going to be.  Here I was planning an elaborate, intricate and involved meal, and I was nearly done with all of the “advanced” prep work three days before the big event.  Flash forward to Sunday and a few careful, paper-thin slices later and we were sitting down to an elegant brunch that went down as “one of the best in years.”  Placed atop a toasted bagel with rich cream cheese, crisp red onions, juicy tomato and briny capers, the lox stood out as a true hero with its subtle essence of dill and lemon on a delicate backdrop of sweet, salty salmon.   There might not have been pillowy poached eggs and velvety hollandaise this time around, but served alongside fresh seasonal fruit, soft scrambled eggs and refreshing mimosas, it was as elegant a meal as any.

GRAVLAX

When making gravlax at home, it is of the utmost importance that you purchase salmon at it’s peak of freshness.  Check with your fishmonger to make sure that the salmon hasn’t been previously frozen and thawed.  For easy cleanup, I like to wrap the fillet itself with a thin layer of the excess cheesecloth and apply the salt/sugar cure directly on top — the flavor will be just as pronounced and you’ll save yourself the task of picking off stray bits of pepper or dill.  Slicing gravlax thinly enough can be a challenge even for the most accomplished home cook.  Use a very sharp knife with a long, thin blade and try to slice the flesh in one direction (pulling the knife toward you) in an effort to attain paper-thin slices — cutting the fillet while it is cold with a warm knife helps significantly.  It takes a bit of practice, but don’t worry if you can’t get perfect slices each time — the ugly ones taste just as good.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 to 1-1/4 lb. skin-on salmon fillet, preferably center-cut, pin bones removed
• 1/2 cup kosher salt
• 1/4 cup granulated sugar
• 1 small bunch fresh dill fronds
• 2 teaspoons freshly cracked black pepper
• 4 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
  
• 2 teaspoons vodka

METHOD:

1. Line a flat-bottomed strainer or perforated sheet pan with a large piece of cheesecloth, allowing the edges to drape over the sides.
2. Place the salmon fillet skin-side down on the layer of cheesecloth and drape the overhanging edges loosely around the fillet.
   
3. In a small bowl mix together the kosher salt, granulated sugar and pepper until well-combined. Pack the cure mixture on top of the wrapped salmon in a thick, even layer.  Scatter the dill fronds on top of the cure mixture and drizzle evenly with the lemon juice and vodka.
4. Cover the sheet pan/strainer with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 3 days.
5. When ready to serve, brush off the and discard the cure.  Using a very sharp knife, slice thinly at a sharp angle to make wide, paper-thin slices.
6. Serve piled atop a lightly toasted bagel with cream cheese, capers, ripe tomato, thinly sliced red onion, a few turns of coarsely ground black pepper and a lemon wedge or two.

Makes enough for 4 generous portions

As I pointed out in my recipe for the B.E.L.T., canned tuna has long had a negative stigma connected to it.  This was not the case growing up in my family where I was routinely fed tuna melts, tuna salad and one of my all-time childhood favorites, tuna noodle casserole.

This recipe comes from my family’s most cherished cookbooks, San Francisco à la Carte, compiled by the Junior League of San Francisco.  Not only does it contain the recipe for my family’s go-to celebration dessert, Sour Cream Chocolate Cake, but also this unique Bay Area twist on the classic, tuna noodle casserole.

Creamy and comforting, this dish has a surprisingly sophisticated flavor that comes from the addition of a toasted almond topping in place of the customary bread crumbs.  With cold weather around the corner, keep this easy-to-make casserole in mind when you’re looking for something to fill you up and warm your belly.

TUNA NOODLE CASSEROLE

Adapted from San Francisco à la Carte

Putting together this recipe is about as easy as it gets.  In fact, the only real room for error is overcooking the pasta.  To avoid this, fill a large pot with an abundant amount of water and bring to a rolling boil before adding the egg noodles.  Make sure to season the water well — it should taste salty.  Cook until the noodles are almost done as they will continue to cook a bit more in the oven.  Also, using good quality canned tuna and some excellent sharp cheddar cheese will make a world of difference in the flavor of the dish.

INGREDIENTS:

• 6 ounces egg noodles, cooked until al dente and drained
• 1/2 teaspoon thyme
• 1/4 teaspoon table salt
• 1 10 1/2-ounce can of cream of celery soup
• 1/2 cup milk
• 2 7-ounce cans tuna, drained and flaked
• 1 cup diced celery
• 1/3 cup diced red bell pepper
• 1/3 cup chopped scallions with some green tops
• 1/2 cup mayonnaise
• 3/4 cup grated sharp cheddar cheese
• Freshly ground black pepper
• Pinch cayenne pepper
• 1/4 cup chopped toasted almonds
• Chopped parsley for garnish
  

METHOD:

1. Preheat oven to 425°.
   
2. Lightly butter a 2-quart casserole and combine the cooked noodles with the salt and minced thyme.  Set aside.
3. In a medium saucepan, mix together the milk and canned soup over medium heat until smooth, stirring constantly.  Gently fold in the tuna, celery, red bell pepper, scallions, mayonnaise and all but 2 tablespoons of the grated cheddar.  Stir until the cheese is melted.
4. Add the cheese sauce to the casserole and mix thoroughly with the noodles.   Sprinkle the top with the remaining cheese and the chopped almonds.
   
5. Bake for about 20 minutes until bubbly and lightly browned.  Garnish with parsley before serving.
   

Serves 6