Cinco de Mayo is around the corner, and there are few hors d’œuvre in the Mexican repertoire better suited for munching on with a nice cold cerveza or margarita in hand than a crunchy, rolled taquito.  If the only kind of taquito you’re familiar with comes in a box from the frozen food aisle, then you’re in for a serious treat.  These are the real deal.  No microwaves, no ovens and no mystery meat here;  just the ear shattering crunch and savory interior of a freshly fried, homemade beef taquito.

Truth be told, I happily ate my healthy share of frozen taquitos for years. In fact, growing up I didn’t know many households that didn’t have a case buried somewhere in their freezer for snack emergencies. Throw them on plate, pop them in the microwave for a minute or so and go to town.  Let’s face it: they’re quick, convenient and the perfect vessel for your favorite condiment.  As a kid, I’d go as far as to dip mine in ketchup! It wasn’t until I decided to try a homemade version that I realized what this Mexican fingerfood could be. Where the frozen lack any serious depth of flavor and always end up being somewhere between chewy and soggy on the texture scale, the homemade is a knockout crispy treat.

These taquitos are the perfect way to use up leftover barbacoa.  In fact, I’ll even make an entire batch for the sole purpose of rolling up a few dozen of these bad boys.  If you really like them (which you will), go ahead and make a double batch and stash them in your freezer for the ultimate late night snack.  Like the kind from the box, but oh-so-much better.

TAQUITOS

Finding good, small, yellow corn tortillas is the first step in making a killer taquito at home.  In my experience, flour and/or white corn tortillas just don’t render the same results.  In order to make the tortillas pliable enough to roll into tight, cigar-like taquitos, it’s necessary to first blanch them in hot oil for a few seconds to make them pliable.  Simply steaming or warming the tortillas in a pan will not work in this instance as they are likely to crack or break during the rolling stage.  As always, I recommend getting a friend or family member involved in this process as an assembly line will pull this recipe together much more quickly than going it alone.  After the taquitos have been rolled, you can either fry them straight away using toothpicks to secure their shape or freeze them seam-side down on a parchment-line baking sheet.  Whatever you do, make sure they are tightly rolled and securely sealed to avoid unfurling in the hot oil.  I’ve gone with barbacoa beef here, but you could just as easily use leftover chile-braised pork, or pulled chicken as well.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 pounds leftover barbacoa beef, shredded
• 16-20 small yellow corn tortillas, no larger than 5-inches in diameter
• Oil for frying
• Hot Sauce, salsa and/or guacamole for dipping

METHOD:

1. Preheat oven to 200° F.  Pour oil into a heavy medium pot until it reaches a depth of 2-inches.  Heat oil over medium heat until it reaches 350° F on a candy thermometer.
2. Working one at a time, quickly dip a tortilla into the hot oil for a few seconds until completely submerged – you are not looking to crisp or cook the tortilla at this point, but rather, make it pliable.  Remove the tortilla using tongs and drain it on several layers of paper towel in order to absorb the excess oil.  Repeat this same dipping/draining procedure with the remaining tortillas.
3. To fill and roll the taquitos, place one of the pliable tortillas on a clean work surface and spoon on 2 large tablespoons or about 1.5-ounces of the shredded beef.  Using your fingers, pinch/shape the beef into a long, sausage-like row just under the center line of the tortilla.  Fold the bottom half of the tortilla up, over and around the filling, pulling snugly on the beef and rolling until you have created a tight cigar-like shape.  Rest the rolled taquito seam-side down on a sheet pan covered with parchment paper and repeat with the remaining tortillas and beef.  At this point you can freeze the taquitos for later frying or you can proceed to fry them straight away. If you plan to fry the taquitos directly after rolling, secure each seam with a carefully threaded toothpick to prevent them from unrolling in the hot oil.
4. Working in batches, fry the the taquitos until they are golden brown and and crispy throughout, about 5-6 minutes.  Transfer the cooked taquitos to a wire rack set over a paper towel-lined baking sheet and keep them warm in the oven. Repeat frying procedure with the remaining wings.
5. Place the hot taquitos on a large platter or stack them in a pyramid and serve along with your favorite Mexican salsa, hot sauce, sour cream or guacamole.

Makes 16-20 taquitos

We’ve all had good spinach dip. A little sour cream, a little cheese, some thawed frozen spinach and you’re in business. It’s the type of party dish you throw out on a table with a few crackers, maybe some slices of toasted baguette, and it’s guaranteed to be gobbled up in a matter of minutes. You may be used to seeing it served cold or at room temperature on most occasions, but those of us who take our dips seriously know that there is nothing quite like a hot version.

Somewhere between a french onion dip and everybody’s favorite green side dish, creamed spinach, this warm rendition satisfies in ways a cold version simply cannot. Just think — all those wonderful, rich flavors that are usually muted by the frosty interior of your refrigerator come alive when warmed through in the oven. Creamy, gooey and indulgent, this spinach dip is guaranteed to become one of your new favorite appetizers. Serve it to guests or bring it to your next potluck, but whatever you do, beware: I’ve seen a small group of people easily polish this off, so it may be worth doubling if you’re serving it for a party.

HOT SPINACH DIP

Adapted from Martha Stewart

This recipe is awesome as a dip and would be just as delicious as a side. While the original version of the recipe calls for three dashes of Worcestershire sauce, each time I’ve made this I find myself using double that — same goes for the hot sauce, too. But that’s my own preference; feel free to play around with flavors. I would even recommend mixing in some freshly grated nutmeg and forgoing the topping of mozzarella, if you’re serving it as a side. I’ve tried this using both fresh and frozen spinach — and a combination of both! — and honestly, the difference isn’t noticeable enough in the finished product to deem one better than the other. Thus, the choice is yours. The frozen spinach is definitely a bit easier — you’ll just add it, completely drained of excess liquid, directly to the cream cheese sauce and then add in the mozzarella cheese.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 teaspoons olive oil, plus more for the baking dish
• 1 medium onion, finely diced
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 2 pounds spinach, cleaned, trimmed, and coarsely chopped, or 2 10-ounce packages frozen chopped spinach, thawed and thoroughly drained
• 1/4 cup stock or water
• 1/2 cup milk
• 6 ounces reduced-fat cream cheese
• Worcestershire sauce, to taste
• Hot sauce, to taste
• 1 cup grated mozzarella
• Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
• Baguette slices, breadsticks, or crackers, for serving

METHOD:

1. Preheat oven to 425 degrees. In a Dutch oven or large pot, heat oil over medium. Add onion and garlic; cook until lightly browned and softened, 5 to 8 minutes.
2. Add spinach in two additions adding a portion of the stock or water with each and cover with a lid. Let the first batch wilt before adding the next; cook until completely wilted, 5 to 8 minutes. Transfer to a colander; drain, pressing to release all excess liquid.
3. In the same pot, warm milk over high heat. Whisk in cream cheese until melted, about 3 minutes. Add spinach, Worcestershire sauce, hot sauce, and 1/2 cup mozzarella; stir to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Pour into a lightly oiled 1 1/2-quart shallow baking dish; sprinkle with remaining 1/2 cup mozzarella.
4. Bake until bubbly and golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Serve hot with accompaniments, as desired.

Makes 3 cups

I should start by saying that I’d never actually eaten stromboli before making this recipe.  After seeing a rendition on TV, I set out to make one in the style of Stuff Yer Face in New Brunswick, New Jersey.  Where most versions seem to be rolled into a pinwheel-like log, this version is more like a burrito — er, Hot Pocket.  Not quite a pizza, almost like a calzone, stromboli seemed like a perfect hand-held version of one of my favorite foods.  Then again, I’m the kind of person who likes to fold my pizza slices in half before biting into them — there’s just something so satisfying about biting into gooey cheese surrounded by crisp then chewy dough.

Sure enough, the ‘boli satisfied this particular craving. Cheesy, salty with tart feta cheese, chalk full of wilted spinach and steaming hot, if you even kind of like pizza (and who doesn’t?), then you’re going to like biting into one of these. Plus, if you have the dough on hand already, they’re easy enough to put together for a lazy weeknight dinner.

SPINACH, FETA & KALAMATA OLIVE STROMBOLI

This recipe uses a your classic Italian-American, New York-style pizza sauce.  If you were hoping for a light, San Marzano sauce, look elsewhere because this one is packed with basil, oregano and tomato paste.  Even so, choose your tomatoes and paste wisely as each brand can vary dramatically in terms of acidity and sweetness so use your taste buds and adjust for the sauce for balance after it’s been processed.  A six ounce can of paste might seem like a lot, but keep in mind that this is a thick, sweet pizzeria-style sauce.  A good melting cheese is key for these stromboli.  Look to use a low-moisture mozzarella or a blend of mozzarella, provolone, fontina or Parmesan for a fantastic final dish.  If kalamata olives, feta cheese and spinach aren’t your thing, go with hand-sliced, quality pepperoni from an Italian deli for an upscale riff on the classic Hot Pocket.

INGREDIENTS

For the Pizza Sauce:

• 1 14-ounce can diced tomatoes
• 1 6-ounce can tomato paste
• 1 1/2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 2 tablespoons chopped basil or 2 teaspoons dried
• 1 1/2 teaspoons dried oregano
• 1 1/2 teaspoons sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon minced garlic
• 1 1/2 teaspoons Kosher salt
• Red wine vinegar to taste
• Olive oil, for brushing
  

For the Stromboli

• 24 ounces homemade or store-bought pizza dough, set out at room temperature
• 1 – 1 1/2 cups, sauce
• 4 cups loosely packed spinach leaves
• 4 cups mozzarella cheese, or other good melting cheese
• 1 cup pitted kalamata olives, halved if desired
• 1/2 cup feta cheese, crumbled

METHOD:

1. Make the sauce: Place all of the sauce ingredients in a food processor and blend until well incorporated. Taste and adjust seasoning, adding more salt, sugar or vinegar to balance the flavor. Set aside.
2. Assemble the Stromboli: Preheat a pizza stone in a 500° oven for at least 1/2 hour. Divide the dough into 4 equal-sized pieces, roll them each into tight balls and allow them to rest at room temperature while the oven heats.
3. Working on a well floured surface and using a rolling pin, roll each dough ball into a 1/8-inch thick, 12×6-inch oblong oval shape.  Spread 1/4 cup of the pizza sauce into the center of each dough round and top with 1 cup of spinach leaves, 1 cup of the mozzarella, 1/4 cup of kalamata cheese and a couple of tablespoons of crumbled feta cheese.  Working as if you were rolling up a burrito, stretch the dough a bit towards the center of the stromboli and wrap the edge closest to you around the filling and roll the whole thing up like a log — pinch the seam firmly to ensure a good seal.  Lightly score the top of each stromboli to allow them to vent slightly during the baking process.
4. Brush the stromboli with olive oil and bake them directly on the pizza stone until golden brown, about 5-7 minutes.  Remove them with a pizza peel and allow to rest for about 5 minutes before going in.

Makes 4 Stromboli

Like baked barbecue pork buns, bagel dogs held a special place in my heart growing up. When hunger pangs struck after a long day at school, these bagel wrapped beauties were one of my favorite go-to snacks.  I was lucky enough to grow up in a town with a small bagel shop that was making them from scratch each morning.  More than anything, I was lucky enough to have a father who enjoyed them as much as I did, so there were always a few in the fridge.  In college, I’d take a dozen back to school with me and they’d easily disappear in a couple days time.  I only had three roommates!

It wasn’t until recently, when I learned of that same bagel shop’s demise that I finally felt motivated to try making them myself at home.  After a couple of so-so attempts and oddly shaped dogs, I finally found a recipe and technique that yields outstanding results – better in many ways than the ones of my youth.  Sure, the process of making bagel dogs from scratch might seem a little daunting and unnecessary considering the availability of frozen varieties at almost every grocery store, but believe me when I say, there is no substitute for the real thing.

BAGEL DOGS

Dough adapted from The Complete International Sandwich Book, by Sonia Uvezian

If you’re going through all the trouble of making bagel dogs from scratch, make sure to pick up some good quality hot dogs for the project.  Skinless, Ball Park franks don’t really cut it in this type of preparation — I like to use Nathan’s or Kasper’s with natural casings here.  When it comes time to roll out the dough, be patient as it can be quite elastic and take a bit of elbow grease to get it to the right thickness.  Don’t be afraid to add more flour to keep everything from sticking.  Rolling the dough around the hot dogs can be a bit tricky at first, but it gets much easier with a bit of practice.  Pinch the dough to one end of the hot dog with one hand while you wrap it tightly in an overlapping spiral motion with the other.  Be sure to rest the wrapped hot dogs seam side down to prevent them from unrolling during the second rising period.  Boiling the bagel dogs will produce the chewy crust that we all love in bagels.  When it comes time to do so, handle the dogs very carefully to avoid tearing or unrolling the dough.  Dry the boiled dogs thoroughly on a dry kitchen towel to ensure that your egg glaze and toppings will adhere to the dough.  Even if they aren’t pretty, they’ll still taste delicious.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 cups water (110° F)
• 2 packages, active dry yeast
• 3 tablespoons sugar
• 3 teaspoons table salt
• 5 1/2 cups unsifted all-purpose flower (approximately)
• 12 quality all-beef hot dogs
• 2 teaspoons baking soda
• 1 egg yolk plus 1 tablespoon water, lightly beaten
• Sesame seeds, poppy seeds and/or coarse salt for garnish

METHOD:

1. Pour the water into the bowl of an electric stand mixer and sprinkle with the yeast.  Let the mixture stand about five minutes or until foamy, then stir in 3 tablespoons of sugar and the salt. Using the paddle attachment and with the mixer on medium speed, gradually add flour, beating until well-blended and smooth, until you have a stiff dough. Replace the paddle attachment with the dough hook and knead thoroughly until smooth and elastic in texture. Form the dough into a lump and place it into a lightly greased bowl. Turn the dough over to grease the top. Cover loosely with a kitchen towel and let rise in a warm place for about an hour or until doubled in size.
2. Once the dough has risen, punch it down and knead briefly to eliminate any air bubbles and turn the dough out onto a lightly floured board. Using a rolling pin, roll the dough out into a 12×9 inch rectangle or until it’s about a 1/4-inch thick, adding flour as necessary to keep the dough from sticking to the rolling pin or the board. Using a pizza cutter or sharp knife, cut 12 1-inch pieces of dough.
3. Dry the hot dogs thoroughly. Starting at one end of a hot dog, wrap the dough around overlapping slightly as you make your way to the other end. Place seam side down on a parchment lined baking sheet and repeat with remaining hot dogs and strips of dough. Cover loosely with a kitchen towel and let stand in a warm place for about 30 to 45 minutes.
4. Preheat the over to 400°. Fill a deep, heavy pot with water and add the baking soda. Bring to a gentle boil. Working 2 to 3 bagels at a time, carefully drop the bagel dogs into the boiling water, turning frequently with a slotted spoon or spatula, for about a minute. Lift out of the water and gently dry each bagel well on a kitchen towel and arrange about 2-inches apart on a parchment lined baking sheet, seam side down. Repeat with remaining bagel dogs.
5. Brush the bagels with the egg glaze and sprinkle on your garnish of choice. Bake for about 35 minutes or until nicely browned and crusty, turning the pan about halfway through. Serve warm or let cool on a wire rack.
   

Makes 12 Bagel Dogs

For some Super Bowl Sunday is all about the love of the game; for others it’s nothing more than a great excuse to gather their closest friends in the living room for the afternoon. Some watch for the commercials and some for the half-time show. And then there are those of us who are in it for the food.

Oh sure, a good Super Bowl game can be a lot of fun, but what I get excited about beforehand has a lot more to do with what I’ll be cooking, serving and eating, and I’m guessing there’s a fair number of you who’ll agree. The following list is by no means complete, but with mozzarella sticks, buffalo wings and an appropriately Southern muffuletta sandwich recipe, I think you’ll find that there’s something for everyone. But feel free to share your own must- have game day grub ideas and recipes in the comments.

SNACK TIME:

Asian-Style Chex Mix

Pimento Cheese Potato Skins

Goat Cheese and Chorizo Rolls

Mozzarella Sticks with Buttermilk Dip

Avocado-Tomatillo Salsa

French Onion Dip

Guacamole

Chipotle Bean Dip

NAPKINS NECESSARY:

Fish Sauce Chicken Wings

Sweet Chili-Glazed Wings

Buffalo Wings with Blue Cheese Dip

GO BIG OR GO HOME:

BBQ Beef Sandwich with Blue Cheese Coleslaw

Muffuletta

Spicy Fried Chicken Sandwich

Green Chile Mac and Cheese

Lamb & Chorizo Chili

Home-Style Sloppy Joes

Throw grated cheddar cheese, sour cream, sliced green onions, and cilantro over a bowl of Stagg Chili and you have a satisfying bowl of chili.  Throw those same condiments over a warm bowl of this hearty lamb and chorizo chili, and you have an epic winter meal.  But I’ll warn you, this chili isn’t for the faint of heart.  This is some rich, earthy fare the likes of which are seldom explored by the typical American diner.  In my mind, I believe this is chili the way chili was always meant to taste.

Thick, heavily spiced and slightly gamey, this is cold weather, stick-to-your-ribs food at it best, making it not only great for the winter season, but also perfect Super Bowl grub if you’re looking to feed a group with a big appetite. I’d go so far as to call this real man food, if my girlfriend weren’t so quick to remind me that women love chili, too.

Garnishes are key here; they lighten the rich flavors while enhancing the chili’s meatiness, so set out a spread of shredded cheese, chopped onion, cilantro and sour cream and let your guests go nuts.

LAMB AND CHORIZO CHILI

Adapted from Bon Appétit

Use fresh, Mexican chorizo  and not the dry-cured Spanish variety in this recipe.  After sautéing and draining the chorizo, be sure to return the fat (drippings) to the pan from the top of any juices that might have collected.  This flavorful, bright red fat will be the medium in which you will fry your aromatics.  This chili can be made as far as three days in advance of service and will definitely benefit from an overnight “curing” in the refrigerator after it’s been simmered.  When reheating, place the chili in a medium saucepan and bring back to a bare simmer, covered, and stirring often over low heat.  Adjust with more stock or water if the chili seems dry and check again for seasoning. In fact, because not all chorizo sausage is seasoned the same way, taste throughout the cooking process and tailor the chili to your own taste.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 1/4 cups chicken broth
• 3 ounces dried ancho chilies (about 5 large), stemmed, seeded, torn into pieces
• 1 tsp. cayenne pepper
• 1 1/2 lbs pork chroizo, casings removed
• 2 cups red onion, coarsely chopped
• 10 large garlic cloves, chopped
• 1 tablespoon dried oregano
• 1 tablespoon cumin
• 1 1/2 lbs ground lamb
• 1 can (15-ounces) canned pinto beans, rinsed and drained
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• Grated cheddar or jack cheese
• Thinly sliced green onions
• Sour cream or Mexican crema
• Cilantro leaves
• Pickled jalapenos, diced

METHOD:

1. Combine first three ingredients in a medium saucepan. Cover and simmer over medium heat until chilies soften, about 12 minutes. Puree mixture in a blender, in batches if need be.  Strain the chile mixture through a fine mesh sieve, pressing on the solids, and set aside.
2. Meanwhile, cook chorizo in a large pot over medium-high heat until drippings come to a simmer. Transfer to a strainer set over a bowl and let drain for 10 minutes.
3. Return 1/4 cup of the chorizo drippings to the same pot and heat over medium-high heat. Add the onion, garlic, oregano and cumin and saute until onions begin to soften, about 5 minutes.
4. Sprinkle lamb with salt and pepper and add to the pot. Sauté just until the lamb is no longer pink on the outside. Add chili puree and drained chorizo. Bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat to a simmer and allow to cook for 1 hour.
5. Add drained pinto beans and simmer uncovered until liquid thickens, about 15 minutes. Season well with salt and pepper to taste. Serve with grated cheddar, sour cream, green onions, cilantro and diced pickled jalapenos as desired.

Makes 6 to 8 servings, depending on the appetite of your crowd

I can remember eating Chex Mix by the handful as a kid.  Seems like wherever there was a birthday party there was bound to be a bowl of the stuff lying around, just waiting to get picked over by the ravenous scores of children in attendance.  I mean, the mix was usually devoured within moments of being put out on the table, which meant that by the time I had a chance to do my own digging, the only things left were those dehydrated, brown croutons and a few broken pretzel pieces lying at the bottom of the bowl — certainly not anyone’s favorite components, but damn good, salty snacking nonetheless.

These days, I’m not being invited to as many five-year-old’s birthday parties as I once was, and by default, haven’t been eating as much party mix.  However, after coming across a recipe for an updated, Asian riff on the classic snack mix in a recent Food & Wine Magazine, I decided it was time to get back in touch with my inner child and get down 0n s0me party mix.

This stuff is as addictive as the mix sold in bags at the grocery store, only with a whole lot more of the items you’ve always wished you’d find inside of them.  Cashews, almonds, pistachios, pretzels, sesame sticks, Asian rice crackers and Chex cereal all get coated in a mix of pure maple syrup, soy sauce and fragrant Thai curry paste for spicy, salty-sweet flavor combination that will leave you craving a refreshing beverage to wash it all down with. The perfect compliment to a nice, tall glass of homemade lemonade and an even better match to a frosty-cold beer, you’ll find few snacks as enjoyable to munch on while watching the big game as this uniquely delicious party mix.

ASIAN-STYLE CHEX MIX

Adapted from Grace Parisi, Food & Wine Magazine

There’s really not much to this recipe, but a few good techniques will keep you from producing overly soggy or burnt crackers in the end.  Here, you’re looking to slowly toast/dry the mix using low heat — if you smell anything burning, lower the oven temperature and stir the mix immediately to distribute the heat.  Keep a watchful eye on the mix without opening the oven door too often or you’ll experience heat loss that can lengthen the cooking time significantly.  When it comes time to season the mix, remind yourself that this is a salty party mix and should be highly seasoned to avoid bland, cardboard-like flavor.  Even though the nuts, soy sauce, pretzels and sesame sticks all have salt, a few healthy pinches of Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper with take the mix to the next level — trust me.  Finally, a couple of large rimmed baking sheets and a big spatula will make this recipe so much easier to deal with, as you won’t have to worry about picking cereal, crackers and nuts off of your kitchen floor when it comes time to stir the stuff.

INGREDIENTS:

• 6 cups Rice Chex cereal (6 ounces)
  
• 1 cup roasted, salted cashews
• 1 cup roasted, salted pistachio nuts
  
• 1 cup roasted, salted almond
• 1 1/2 cups Asian rice cracker mix (I used Hapi Snacks Tokyo Mix)
• 1 1/2 cups sesame sticks (4 ounces)
• 1 1/2 cups mini pretzels
• 3/4 cup Arare Iso Maki (optional)
• 1 stick unsalted butter
• 1/4 cup grade B pure maple syrup
• 5 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon soy sauce
• 1 tablespoon Thai red curry paste or sambal olek
• Sriracha hot sauce to taste (optional)
  
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  

METHOD:

1. Preheat your oven to 275° F.
2. In a large bowl combine the cereal with the nuts, rice cracker mix, sesame sticks and pretzels,
3. In a small saucepan, combine the butter, maple syrup, soy sauce, curry paste/sambal olek and optional sriracha  and bring to a simmer over medium heat, whisking until everything is dissolved.
4. Pour the mixture over the snack mix and toss/fold gently to coat completely.
5. Season generously with salt and freshly ground pepper and spread the mix out on 2 to 3 large baking sheets.
6. Bake for 35 minutes, stirring 2 to 3 times and rotating/shifting the sheets, until nearly dry and toasted.
7. Let cool completely, stirring occasionally.  Serve in a large bowl along with plenty of cold beverages.

Makes 13 cups, enough for 10 people

Let me start by saying that this is a recipe for guacamole the way I like to eat it.  Not too chunky, definitely not too smooth, bright with lime juice, and not a tomato or garlic clove in sight.  That’s right — I like to leave out the garlic and diced tomato you sometimes find in other recipes because I want the avocado to be the star.  In fact, I find the addition of garlic, even in small amounts, tends to overpower the delicate flavor of a good avocado. So, what makes my version so unique? Nothing special, really.  Just a few basic techniques that I find produce a perfectly textured, beautifully balanced guac that is as good as a dip with chips as it is a condiment on burritos, tacos and enchiladas.

My guacamole starts with ripe avocados — not the hard, vegetal tasting variety that you’re likely to find when they’ve just been delivered to your local supermarket.  With avocado prices what they are these days, in my opinion, it’s not worth the time or money to make guacamole unless you can find soft-ripe, buttery avocados to do so with.  This sometimes takes some careful planning, giving slightly under-ripe specimens the appropriate time needed to reach the proper level of ripeness.  Next, I give my guacamole a nice, healthy dose of freshly squeezed lime juice for a clean, citrusy note and finely minced serrano chiles and “deflamed” red onion for a bit of heat and textural contrast.  Finished with a bit of chopped cilantro and a good dash of salt and I’m left with a true a crowdpleaser.

This recipe doubles easily, so next time you have a group of friends coming over or are tasked with the duty of bringing a dip to your next potluck, throw out a bowl of this guacamole and watch it disappear.

GUACAMOLE

Good guacamole starts with soft-ripe avocados.  Make sure to look for avocados that yield slightly when gently pressed on their rounded blossom end.  Even the most perfect avocados can have a few dark spots here and there, so be sure to remove those once you get the flesh out of their skins.  Tossing the diced avocado in the lime juice will prevent oxidation from occurring while you prepare your other ingredients.  Be careful not mash the avocado during this step however, or you will be left with smooth puree by the time you’ve had a chance to incorporate your other ingredients.  Everyone’s tastes are different — if you are not a fan of red onion or cilantro, feel free to leave them out.  If you like diced tomatoes in your guac, add them in with the chiles before bringing everything together.  If you decide to make the guacamole earlier in the day, store it in the refrigerator by laying a sheet of plastic wrap directly on the surface of the dip to avoid that brown color that comes from oxidation.

INGREDIENTS

• 3 large (about 1 1/2 pounds) soft-ripe avocados
  
• 1-2 tablespoons fresh squeezed lime juice (from about half of a large lime)
• 1/2 cup finely diced red onion (from about half of a small onion)
• 1 – 2 serrano chiles, minced
• 1/4 cup chopped cilantro, lightly packed
• 1 1/2 teaspoon Kosher salt, plus more to taste
  

METHOD:

1. Begin by slicing each avocado in half, running your knife around the pit from stem to blossom end.  Remove the pit from each avocado by gently lodging the heel of your blade into them and twisting slightly to break them free from the flesh.  Making sure not slice through the skin, carefully score each avocado half in a 1/2-inch crosshatch pattern.  Using a large spoon, gently scoop the flesh out of each half into a large bowl.
2. Pour the freshly squeezed lime juice over the diced avocado and gently fold to coat each piece.  You’re not looking to mash the avocado at this point, just toss it with lime juice to prevent oxidation.
3. Scoop the finely diced red onion into a strainer and rinse it under cold running water to remove some of its pungency.  Drain the onion well before throwing it in on top of the diced avocado in the bowl.  Do not stir to incorporate at this point.
4. Toss in the minced chiles, chopped cilantro and salt.  Stir, lightly mashing the avocado with the back of a spoon or rubber spatula until all the ingredients are well incorporated and you’ve reached your desired texture/consistency.  Allow the guacamole to sit for at least 30 minutes at room temperature in order for the flavors to come together.  Taste for salt and acidity, adjusting as necessary.
5. Serve at room temperature for optimal flavor.

Makes about 2 cups

I know what you’re thinking — two recipes for chicken wings in three posts?  It might be a bit excessive, but the fact of the matter is, I can’t get enough of them. I love wings, my friends love wings and if the rising price of chicken wings counts for anything, so does the rest of America.  So, for all my readers who might not might not be into the fish sauce or sweet chili-glazed variety, I’m here to offer you a recipe and proper technique for the classic New York-style buffalo wing.

I grew up eating hot wings from a local Bay Area chain called Original Buffalo Wings.  On the nights we were lucky enough to call them dinner, my Mom would order up a “double dozen” along with a bag of fresh fried potato chips and an extra side of blue cheese dip for the crispy (albeit anemic) celery sticks.  Bathed in a velvety, vinegary coating of hot sauce, the wings always remained crisp — a textual enigma which I long considered a well-kept secret of the buffalo wing trade.  Having made these a handful of times now, I can tell you that there are actually few secrets to a great wing.  Just get a hold of some fresh, meaty chicken wings, dry them well to promote even browning, fry them in small batches, toss them with Frank’s RedHot sauce and a bit of margarine (gasp!) and you’ll be left with the the quintessential, finger-lickin’ good buffalo wing.

BUFFALO WINGS

Getting the wings as dry as possible before frying them is a crucial step in achieving a crispy, golden brown wing.  As always, fry the wings in batches that will not overwhelm the pot and drop your oil temperature too dramatically.  In fact, I’ll sometimes allow the oil to exceed 350° in anticipation of drop of 20-30 degrees.  This recipe calls for the use of margarine, an ingredient that I rarely, if ever, use in my cooking.  I’ve tried making them with butter and they simply just don’t turn out the same.  If you are dead-set against using margarine, consider using clarified butter — the absence of the milk solids and water should allow the hot sauce to easily emulsify.  When you are ready to toss the wings with the buffalo sauce, make sure to give it another good whisk as it tends to separate a bit while it sits.  Any hot sauce will do in this recipe, but the wings you’ve eaten in restaurants were probably made using Frank’s.  If you like your wings really hot, simply adjust the ratio of hot sauce to margarine.

INGREDIENTS:

• Peanut, canola, grapeseed or vegetable oil for Frying
• 2 pounds chicken wings (about 20), separated at the joint, wingtips removed
• 6 tablespoons margarine
• 1/2 cup Frank’s RedHot Original Cayenne Pepper Sauce (plus more to taste)
• 3 ribs of celery, sliced into 3-inch lengths
• 3/4 cup blue cheese dip (recipe follows)

METHOD:

1. Preheat oven to 200° F.  Pour oil into a heavy medium pot until it reaches a depth of 2-inches.  Heat oil over medium heat until it reaches 350° F on a candy thermometer.
2. Meanwhile, dry the wings thoroughly on paper towels to remove all residual moisture.  Working in batches, fry the wings until they are golden brown and cooked through, about 10 minutes.  Be sure to stir the wings occasionally to prevent them from sticking together.  Transfer the cooked wings to a wire rack set over a paper towel-lined baking sheet and keep them warm in the oven. Repeat frying procedure with the remaining wings.
3. Make the sauce by melting the margarine in a small saucepan over medium heat.  Add the hot sauce and whisk to combine.
4. When you are ready to serve, transfer the chicken wings to a large bowl, pour over the hot sauce mixture and toss until they are thoroughly coated.  Serve immediately with celery stick and blue cheese dip.

Makes 20 Wings

BLUE CHEESE DIP

You can think of this dip as a slightly thicker version of blue cheese dressing.  If you don’t have chives, use green onions.  Feel free to adjust the amount of sour cream and heavy cream to reach a consistency that fits your own personal taste.  If you have the time, make this earlier in the day and place it in the refrigerator to allow the flavors to come together.  Serve cold or at room temperature.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1/4 pound Danish blue cheese, crumbled
• 3 tablespoons heavy cream
• 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
• 1/4 – 1/3 cup sour cream
• 1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
• Hot sauce to taste
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 2 tablespoons minced chives

METHOD:

1. Combine the blue cheese, heavy cream and lemon juice in a small bowl.
2. Add sour cream 1 tablespoon at a time, whisking to combine.
3. Add in the Worcestershire and hot sauce and season to taste with salt and pepper.
4. Fold in minced chives and let stand at least 5 minutes before serving.

I spent the weekend barbecuing in the rain.  Sure, Winter might not be the best time to break out the Webber and smoke some meat, but having lived in a San Francisco apartment without access to a yard for a couple of years, I’ll take any opportunity I can get.  I spent the past few days away at my parents vacation home in Sea Ranch, and despite Mother Nature’s best efforts to keep me cooped up inside, I decided to brave the elements and experiment with an old recipe that I’ve been meaning to try for a while now.

When it comes to barbecue, for me, it doesn’t get much tastier than a good pulled pork sandwich topped with a tangy, vinegary coleslaw.  I’ll order them whenever and wherever.  In fact, on a business trip to North Carolina, I spent nearly $40.00 on a round trip taxi to a local BBQ joint claiming to have the best pulled pork in all of The Carolinas.  However, having spent so much time dedicated to finding the ultimate pulled pork sandwich, it recently donned on me that I’d been neglecting another hallmark barbecue staple — the BBQ Beef Sandwich.

Now, what you see above is by no means authentic or traditional in any way, shape or form.  This recipe is an adaptation of one from America’s Test Kitchen’s, Cook’s Country for a knock-off, quick riff on the beef-centric barbecue of Texas.  Knowing that I’d be missing the slaw found on its pulled pork cousin, I decided to whip up a batch of creamy coleslaw studded with rich blue cheese – one of beef’s best friends – as a crunchy condiment.  Placed atop some fluffy brioche hamburger buns I found at the local market, I was left with a sandwich that was instantly catapulted into the ranks of some of the best I’ve ever made.  Smoky, saucy and beefy, these sandwiches pack huge flavor.  This recipe is great for a crowd and can be prepared well in advance of service once you have the smoking out of the way.

BBQ BEEF SANDWICH WITH BLUE CHEESE COLESLAW

Adapted from Cook’s Country

This recipe requires the use of a charcoal or gas grill in order to smoke the beef prior to baking it in a low oven to finish cooking and further tenderize the meat.  This step of the cooking process is necessary to develop a nice smoky character and lend the beef an authentic barbecue flavor.  If you are working with a gas grill, simply heat all of the elements on high and place the foil packet full of wood chips on the primary burner.  Allow the foil packet to smoke heavily (about 15 minutes) and keep the primary burner on high while you turn off the remaining burners.  Place the roasting pan on the end of the grill opposite the primary burner, cover the grill and proceed with the recipe as directed below.  For the coleslaw, feel free to add as much or as little of the mayonnaise dressing as you would like.  I personally like to go a little light on the saucing in order to allow the cabbage and carrots to retain some of their crunch.  The slaw can be served cold or at room temperature when it comes time to top the beef sandwiches, but I especially like the cool contrast of a crunchy slaw fresh from the refrigerator against the warm, saucy beef.

INGREDIENTS:

For the Beef:

• 1 boneless beef chuck-eye roast (about 4 – 5 pounds)
• 1 tablespoon table salt (iodized salt)
• 1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 3 cups wood chips, soaked for 15 minutes
• 6 soft hamburger buns

For the Sauce:

• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 4 garlic cloves, minced
• 1/2 teaspoon chili powder
• 1 1/4 cups ketchup
• 3/4 cup strong brewed coffee
• 1/2 cup cider vinegar
• 1/2 cup packed brown sugar
• 3 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

For the Coleslaw:

• 1/2 small head green cabbage, finely shredded
• 1/2 small head purple cabbage, finely shredded
• 3 large carrots, peeled and grated
• 1 cup mayonnaise
• 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
• 1 tablespoon whole grain mustard
• 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon cider vinegar
• 1/2 teaspoon celery salt
• 1/4 teaspoon Kosher salt
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 3/4 cup (about 3 ounces) crumbled blue cheese
• 1/2 cup parsley, coarsely chopped

METHOD:

1. Prepare the Beef: In a small bowl, make a rub by combining the salt, pepper and cayenne.  Slice the roast into 4 equal sized pieces and remove any excess fat or gristle.  Rub the meat on all sides with the salt mixture then wrap each piece tightly in plastic wrap.  Place the meat on a plate and allow to sit overnight in the refrigerator.
2. Smoke the Beef: Unwrap the beef and place them in a single layer in a large disposable aluminum roasting pan.  Neatly wrap the soaked wood chips in a large piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil and poke a few holes in it to allow smoke to escape.  Open the bottom vent of the grill and light 50 coals in a chimney starter.  When the coals are covered in a fine gray ash pour them in a single pile on only one side of the grill.  Place the foil packet directly on top of the hot coals and place the lid on the grill.  Set the cooking grate in place and adjust the vents on the lid of the grill until they are halfway open.  When the wood chips begin to smoke heavily (after about 5 minutes) place the roasting pan on the side of the grill opposite the coals.  Place the lid back on the grill with the vent holes directly over the beef and allow to smoke/roast for about 2 hours, until aromatic and deep red in color.
3. Braise/Roast the Beef: Preheat the oven to 300° F and adjust rack to the lower-middle position.  Remove the roasting pan from the grill and turn each piece of beef over.  Cover the pan tightly with foil and place in the oven and bake until the meat is fork tender, about 2-3 hours.  Remove the beef from the pan, tent it loosely with foil and allow it to rest for at least 30 minutes.  While the meat is resting, pour off the pan drippings into a gravy separator.  Reserve 2 tablespoons of the separated fat and strain the remaining juices, reserving 1/2 cup of liquid.
4. Meanwhile, make the Blue Cheese Coleslaw: In a medium bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, both mustards, vinegar, celery salt, Kosher salt and pepper.  Pour enough of the mayonnaise dressing over the shredded cabbages and grated carrots to moisten them.  Add in the crumbled blue cheese and chopped parsley and toss well to combine.  Cover the bowl and refrigerate for a few hours to allow the flavors to combine.
5. Make the Barbecue Sauce: Combine the onion and reserved fat in a saucepan over medium heat.  Cook, stirring occasionally until the onion has softened, about 10 minutes.  Add the minced garlic and chili powder and cook, stirring constantly until well combined and aromatic, about 30 seconds.  Stir in remaining sauce ingredients and reserved juices and simmer until thickened, about 15-20 minutes.  Allow the sauce to cool slightly before straining the sauce if you prefer a velvety texture.
6. Assemble the Sandwiches: Split and lightly toast each hamburger bun.  Using 2 forks, pull the beef apart into shreds, discarding any excess fat or gristle.  In a saucepan set over low heat, toss the beef with enough barbecue sauce to moisten the meat well.  When heated through, place the sauced beef on top of the bottom half of each bun.  Top the beef with some of the blue cheese coleslaw, add the top half of the bun and serve immediately.

Makes 8 Sandwiches