Sure, St. Patrick’s Day is right around the corner, and while I could offer you a few variations on classic Irish dishes like corned beef and colcannon, something has me craving Middle Eastern food instead.  So, this week I’ll be posting some of my favorite recipes from Lebanon, Turkey and Israel, all culminating in a dish that will be able to take advantage of each flavorful offering in the group. How about a dip to start?

Like its cousin hummus, baba ganoush is now offered by a myriad of producers and can be found at almost any major grocery store.  While most of it is good, I’ve found that nothing quite compares with a batch of the homemade stuff.  An essential component of any good mezze platter or vegetarian plate at most restaurants, this eggplant dip is as healthy as it is flavorful. For those who’ve never tried it, imagine a smoky spread that is as at once creamy and light, tangy and sweet and as good with warm pita bread at is with crunchy crudite.

At its best, baba is always a contrast of flavors and textures, but the exact ratio of lemon juice to tahini, the consistency from rough chopped to food processor smooth, the addition of a lot or a little garlic, etc. is in the eye mouth of the beholder. And of course, there is no way quite as effective to ensure that a dish is made to your tastes than to make it yourself. So, while I’ve included a handful of measurements in the recipe, keep in mind that they are merely guidelines that can easily be adjusted to suit your own taste, and that technique is what’s most important in creating a outstanding eggplant dip.

BABA GANOUSH

Adapted from Claudia Roden’s, Arabesque a Taste of Morocco, Turkey, and Lebanon

If you have a grill or barbecue sitting in your backyard, this is a great time to take advantage of the smoky flavor that it can add to a dish.  If you don’t feel like starting a fire just to grill some eggplants, char the eggplants under your ovens broiler set on high.  This step is crucial if you are going to attain the smoky flavor that makes baba ganoush so unique.  When your eggplants are cool enough to handle, slice them down the middle and scrape out the flesh with the point of a knife.  Lightly chopping/cutting the eggplant while it is draining in a sieve will not only allow you to remove some of the bitter juices from the flesh, but also control its texture.  If a rustic presentation is not what you are after, simply puree the eggplant in a food processor until the desired consistency is reached.  If you like an especially creamy baba ganosh, add the optional yogurt and whip it into the tahini/lemon mixture before adding the eggplant puree.  Even though you are removing a good amount of bitterness by eliminating the juices from the eggplant, I’ve found that adding a pinch or two of salt can really balance out the acidity of the lemon and counteract any residual bitterness  left in the flesh.  Finally, I like to garnish my baba with a sprinkle of smoked paprika for a nice contrast in color and to reinforce the smoky character of the spread.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 medium eggplants (about 1 1/2 pounds)
• 3 tablespoons tahini
• Juice of 2 lemons
• 2 garlic cloves, crushed
• 3/4 cup to 4/5 cup Greek-style yogurt
• Salt, to taste
• Sugar, to taste
• 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
• Smoked paprika, for garnish

METHOD:

1. Prick the eggplants in a few places with a pointed knife to prevent them from exploding.  Cook the eggplant over the flame of a charcoal barbecue or under the broiler until the skin is charred all over and they feel very soft when you press them.  Alternatively, you can place them on a foil-lined baking sheet and roast them in your oven set on its highest heat setting for about 45-55 until soft.
2. When cool enough to handle, peel and drop them into a strainer or colander with small holes.  Press out as much of the water and juices as possible.  Still in the colander, chop the flesh with a pointed knife, then mash it with a fork or wooden spoon, letting the juices escape through the holes.  Adding a tiny squeeze of lemon juice help to keep the puree looking pale and appetizing.
3. In a bowl, beat the tahini with the lemon juice (the tahini stiffens at first then softens), then beat in the yogurt if you are including it.  Add the mashed eggplant, garlic to taste, and a good pinch of salt.  Beat vigorously and taste to adjust flavoring.
4. Spread the puree onto a flat serving dish or bowl and garnish with a drizzle of olive oil, a sprinkling of parsley and a pinch of smoked paprika. For best flavor, serve at room temperature.

Makes about 2 cups

Let’s be honest — this dish isn’t going to be winning any beauty pageants anytime soon.  With it’s reddish-brown color scheme and thick, chili-like texture, this isn’t the type of recipe that turns many heads on Foodgawker or Tastespotting.  So, like a friend who’s just set you up on a blind date with an aesthetically challenged individual, I implore you to move past its humble appearance and try to get to know the soul of this comforting dish.

For me, this is cold weather fare at its best.  A warm, stick-to-your-ribs type meal that’s like a hug from a loved one.  Creamy lentils and sausages combine to produce a dish that is both high in protein and rich in savory flavor.  The best part? It’s cheap and simple to make.  In fact, you probably already have everything to make it your kitchen.  All you really need is a handful of lentils, a few sausages from the fridge, a leftover glass of wine, and you can have a filling and satisfying meal at a moment’s notice.  This is hearty food that reheats well and makes great leftovers.

If looks don’t matter, you might have found your new soul mate.

SAUSAGE AND LENTIL STEW

I like to use French green lentils in this recipe because they hold their shape and retain great texture when cooked for long periods of time.  If you don’t have any on hand, feel free to substitute brown lentils but expect a slightly different finished texture.  If you want a healthier version of this stew, omit the bacon and pour off all of the rendered sausage fat after browning.  If you decide to go down this route, simply substitute a couple of tablespoons of good olive oil before cooking the vegetables.  Feel free to use any herbs or spices you have lying around your kitchen.  I’ve made this with everything from rosemary to curry powder with excellent results, so experiment away. Finally, I’ve found that other sausages work well in this application.  Merguez and goat would also make for a stellar stew.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 slices smoky bacon
• 4 sweet or hot Italian sausages, cut into 1-inch pieces
  
• 1 cup petite French lentils, rinsed and drained
• 1 cup diced carrot
• 1 medium onion, diced
• 5 cloves garlic, finely chopped
• 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leave
• Crushed red pepper flakes
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 cup dry red wine
• 1 14-ounce can tomatoes, crushed
• 2 cups chicken stock
• 2 roasted red peppers, sliced 1/4-inch thick
• 4 sprigs of parsley
  
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
• 1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
  
• Chopped parsley for garnish

METHOD:

1. Set a large, heavy-bottomed pot over moderately-low heat and cook bacon until the fat has rendered.  Using a slotted spoon, remove the bacon from the pot and set aside.  Increase the heat to moderately-high and brown the sausage pieces in the reserved bacon fat.  Be careful not to crowd the pot; fry the sausages in separate batches if necessary.  Once they are sufficiently caramelized (about 8 minutes per batch), remove the browned sausage pieces to a plate using a slotted spoon.
   
2. Lower the heat to moderate and add in the carrots, onion and garlic. Sauté until softened and just beginning to brown, about 10 minutes.  Add in the crushed red pepper flakes, bay leaves and thyme and sauté another 5 minutes.  Add in the red wine to deglaze and scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the pot with the back of a wooden spoon.  Allow the wine to reduce by half before adding the lentils, tomatoes, chicken stock, red peppers and parsley.
3. Add the cooked bacon and sausages back into the pot along with any juices that may have collected.  Stir to mix well and bring to a boil.  Turn down the heat and simmer for an hour, or until the lentils are just al dente.  Stir occasionally to prevent scorching.
   
4. Stir in the balsamic vinegar and season the lentil stew with salt and pepper to taste.  Garnish with chopped parsley and serve.

Serves 4

Ah, the good ol’ days: when spending 30 bucks on Thai takeout was just your typical Wednesday night. Now, income-less, Thai food along with Chinese and pizza seems like quite the luxury. These days I’m making my own Thai food, and to be honest, not missing a thing.  At home, I make Thai food the way I like it.  Very spicy, fairly salty and just a little sweet. Such is the beauty of having curry pastes sitting in your freezer ready at your disposal.  What seems like an exotic and esoteric cuisine on the surface is actually fairly simple to prepare at home.

I like to think of panang as a great beginner curry for those that are new to Thai cuisine.  Reminiscent of everybody’s favorite peanut dipping sauce which accompanies the ubiquitous satay, panang is at once both bright and aromatic while at the same time, rich and comforting.

I’m lucky enough to live in San Francisco where I can find pretty much anything I need at any of the many Asian markets.  However, if you love Thai food and can’t find a store that stocks such items as palm sugar, lime leaves, or good Thai coconut milk, check out www.importfood.com for everything you need (and then some).

PANANG BEEF CURRY

Once you have the hard part of making the paste out of the way, this curry comes together quite quickly.  Make sure to use a good, full-fat brand of coconut milk when making this dish.  The thick cream that settles at the top of each can is rich in oil and acts as the perfect stir-frying medium to bloom the curry paste’s aroma and flavors.  Many panang recipes call for the addition of ground peanuts instead of peanut butter.  Either makes a fine choice, but I love the velvety texture that comes from using the stuff in jars.  Finally, adjust the final seasoning to your own tastes.  Some people like their curry sweeter or saltier than others, so feel free to add more fish sauce or palm sugar along the way to fit your own palate.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 19 fl. oz can Thai coconut milk (I use Mae Ploy brand)
• 4-5 tablespoons homemade Panang curry paste
• 1 lb. beef cross rib roast, sliced 2 x 1/4 inch thick
• 3-4 tablespoons fish sauce
• 2 tablespoons palm sugar
• 2 tablespoons all-natural peanut butter (smooth or crunchy)
• 1/2 cup water
• 4-6 Thai chilies, split lengthwise
• 2-3 limes leaves cut into a chiffonade for garnish
• Lime wedges for garnish

METHOD:

1. Skim the thick cream from the top of the can of coconut milk into a large saucepan, reserving the watery milk.  Set the saucepan over medium-high heat and stir the cream vigorously until the glossy oil surfaces.
2. Add the curry paste and continue to stir vigorously until fragrant and a red oil surfaces, about 2 minutes.
3. Add in the sliced beef and stir to coat well with the curry mixture.  Add in the remaining coconut milk, fish sauce, palm sugar, peanut butter, water and chilies.  Stir to dissolve the the peanut butter and palm sugar and simmer over low heat for one hour, or until the curry has reduced into a thick sauce and the beef is very tender.
4. Taste the curry for for salt and sweetness.  If it needs more salt, add a few more dashes of fish sauce, if it needs to be sweeter, add more palm sugar.
5. Transfer the curry to a serving bowl and garnish with the lime leaf chiffonade.  Serve with lime wedges.

Serves 4

Maybe I watched too many episodes of The Naked Chef when I was younger, but in my mind, there are few kitchen activities more satisfying than giving a handful of aromatic herbs and spices a good pounding in a large, heavy mortar. Handmade pesto is great and whole-toasted spices don’t last a second in the bowl of a nice granite model, but for me, it’s in the act of making Thai curry paste that Iget the most out of one of my simplest kitchen tools.

Making curry paste the authentic way is a tactile and fragrant experience. In fact, things oftentimes get so aromatic that Lauren practically has to lock herself in our bedroom to avoid the pungent odor of toasted shrimp paste – an essential component of true Thai curry. Here I’ve included a recipe for a paste to create one of my all-time favorite curries: panang. Citrus notes dominate due to the heavy use of lime zest, lime leaves, coriander seeds and lemongrass.

While some of the key ingredients might be hard to track down and the overall process requires a fair amount of prep, as Victor Sodsook points out in his cookbook, True Thai: The Modern Art of Thai Cooking, curry pastes are “like money in the bank.” An hour of hard work will pay off with intense, complex flavor in future dishes. Couple this with the fact that many pastes last weeks in the refrigerator and several months in the freezer, and you have a culinary resource that lends completed dishes a taste that will seem like it’s taken hours to build.

Check back tomorrow for recipe that puts this amazing paste to good use; Panang Beef Curry.

PANANG CURRY PASTE

From True Thai: The Modern Art of Thai Cooking by Victor Sodsook

This recipe employs the use of both a mortar and pestle as well as a food processor in the assembly of the curry paste. The mortar breaks down the tough fibers of the lemongrass, galangal and lime leaves, releasing valuable oils and aromas that would be lost if the food processor was used exclusively. If you’ve never used shrimp paste before, be warned, it’s pretty pungent stuff. I like to finely slice or scrape the shrimp paste from it’s container or block and then pack it into a tablespoon measurement for accurate proportioning.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 package (3 ounces) dried red New Mexico chilies
• 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon whole coriander seed
• 2 tablespoons shrimp paste wrapped neatly in a double layer of aluminum foil
• Zest of 2 fresh Kaffir limes or 1 small domestic lime
• 10 (5 pairs) fresh Kaffir lime leaves or 1/2 teaspoon grated lime zest
• 2 1/2 tablespoons chopped cilantro, including stems
• 1 large stalk lemon grass, tough outer leaves discarded, lower stalk trimmed to 3 inches and finely sliced
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped, peeled galangal or common ginger
• 1/3 cup roughly chopped garlic
• 1/3 cup roughly chopped shallots

METHOD:

1. Stem the chilies, discarding most of the seeds and removing the dry, tough ribs. Cut or tear the chilies into 1-inch pieces and put them in a bowl. Cover the chilies with warm water to cover and let soak for 20-30 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, lightly toast the coriander seeds in a small skillet set over medium heat until aromatic, about 3-5 minutes. Shake the pan frequently to prevent burning. Transfer the toasted coriander to a small bowl to cool and set aside.
3. Set the skillet back over medium heat and add the foil-wrapped shrimp paste. Cook, turning the packed over once or twice until aromatic, about 5 minutes. Remove the packet from the skillet and set aside to cool.
4. Put the toasted coriander in a large, heavy mortar and pestle and grind to a fine powder. Transfer the ground coriander to the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade.
5. If using fresh lime leaves, stack them and cut them into fine slivers with a sharp knife. Combine the lime zest, slivered lime leaves, cilantro, lemongrass, and ginger in the mortar and pound for a minute to break down the fibers. Transfer the crushed mixture to the food processor.
6. Pound the garlic and shallots in the mortar until just crushed and transfer them to the food processor.
7. Unwrap the shrimp paste and add it to the food processor.
8. Drain the chilies from their soaking liquid, reserving about 1/2 cup of the water. Add the chilies to the food processor.
9. Pulse the ingredients to combine, process the mixture until a rich, moist paste forms, stopping occasionally to scrape down the sides of the bowl with a spatula. Add a few tablespoons of the reserved soaking liquid, if needed, to ease the grinding.
10. Store the finished panang curry paste in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 1 month, or in the freezer for up to 3 months.

Makes about 1 2/3 cups.

These lettuce cups might be a little too P.F. Chang’s for some people, but this is a recipe I’ve come back to time and time again for quick, delicious results.  Big on flavor and a cinch to prepare, ginger pork lettuce cups are an amazing start to an Asian-inspired menu and have even taken center stage on more than one dinner occasion.

Here, unctuous ground pork and umami-rich oyster sauce mingle with crunchy water chestnuts and finely diced red bell pepper to create a filling that is as appealing to the eye as it is to the palate. The contrast in texture between the hot, salty filling and the cool, crispy lettuce is a combination that has me coming back to this recipe over and over again.  The best part? Once you have all the necessary ingredients in your pantry, whipping this dish up on a weeknight is as easy as it gets.

GINGER PORK LETTUCE CUPS

Adapted from the August, 2006 issue of Food & Wine Magazine

When making the ginger pork mixture, I like to let it sit out for a few minutes to allow the flavors to marry and the ingredients to come up to room temperature. When stir-frying the pork, it’s important to use as high of heat as your stove will allow.  Be sure to stir the mixture constantly and break up any large lumps.  The goal is to drive away as much moisture from the pork as possible so that it will have a chance to caramelize in the fat.  There is something especially appealing about eating the pork in lettuce leaves but it would also be delicious served over rice.  Minced chicken or turkey would also make fine substitutes for the pork in this dish.

INGREDIENTS:

• 3/4 pound ground pork
• 1  medium red bell pepper, finely diced
• 1 serrano or thai bird chile, finely minced
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 1 tablespoon minced, peeled ginger
• 1 tablespoon Thai sweet chili sauce
• 1 tablespoon fish sauce
• 1 teaspoon sesame oil
• 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon peanut or grapeseed oil
• 1 8-ounce can whole water chestnuts, drained and finely diced
• 2 scallions, thinly sliced
• 2 tablespoons oyster sauce
• 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
• 24 Boston lettuce leaves

METHOD:

1. In a medium bowl, combine the ground pork with the diced red bell pepper, minced chile, garlic, ginger, fish sauce, chile sauce, sesame oil and 1 tablespoon of the peanut or grapeseed oil.  Set the bowl aside and allow the flavors to come together for at least 15 minutes at room temperature.
2. Heat a large skillet or wok over high heat.  Allow the skillet to get screaming hot before adding in the pork.  Stir-fry the mixture over high heat, breaking it up, until the pork is cooked through and beginning to brown, about 8 minutes.  Stir in the oyster sauce, diced water chestnuts, scallions and cilantro and remove from heat.
3. Serve the ginger pork in a bowl along with a stack of the lettuce leaves on a plate.  To eat, spoon some of the ginger pork onto a lettuce leaf, roll up and enjoy.
   

Makes enough for 6 appetizer servings or dinner for two

If you have any smoky chipotle black beans leftover, you might want to consider making this tostada — a dish that represents the marriage of two of my all-time favorite recipes.

Lucky enough to live only a short drive from the Napa Valley, I’ve had the opportunity to dine at Cindy Pawlcyn’s restaurants since I was a boy.  Having eaten amazing meals at Go Fish and Mustards Grill, the most memorable dish came on a visit to Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen for lunch when I first tasted her famous Rabbit Tostada.  Imagine tender, juicy chile-braised rabbit nestled on top of warm, earthy black beans and a crispy fried tortilla.  Finished with a refreshing salad of herbs, thinly sliced cabbage and tart feta cheese, quite simply, this is as good as a tostada can get.

The other half of this recipe comes from pioneering chef, Robert Del Grande and his restaurant, Cafe Annie.  While I still haven’t had the opportunity to visit the iconic Houston restaurant, I have made his signature bar staple, Black Bean Nachos with Red Chile Beef.  With each tortilla chip covered in the perfect amount of over five different flavor components, it goes without saying that these were the most delicious and extravagant nachos I’d ever eaten.  However, at a prep time of close to three hours, I haven’t gotten around to making them as often as I would like.

Hence, the Red Chile Beef Tostada was born.  Taking key elements from each dish, I’ve put together a recipe that pays homage to the very best of each chef.  Rich, meaty red chile beef fills in for the guajillo-braised rabbit in Cindy’s dish, whereas a black bean topped tostada and refreshing cabbage slaw takes the place of the bite-size nacho in Robert’s.  The result is too delicious to describe. You’re just going to have to try it.

RED CHILE BEEF TOSTADAS

Inspired by Robert Del Grande’s, Black Bean Nachos with Red Chile Beef from Saveur, Issue #97 and Cindy Pawlcyn’s, Big Small Plates

Toasting the chiles in the oven is a quick and easy way to wake up their dormant flavor prior to soaking.  After I make the purée, I like to pass the chile sauce through a fine mesh sieve in order to catch any stray seeds and skin.  This simple step produces a beautiful, velvety sauce.  When preparing the skirt steak, I like to chop the meat by hand in order to control the size of the pieces.  That being said, pulsing the meat in a food processor or passing it through the coarse dial of a meat grinder would also work very well.  Finally, when assembling the tostadas you can gently mash the smoky black beans to help them to sit on the tortilla without rolling off.

INGREDIENTS:

For the Red Chile Beef:

• 9 dried guajillo chiles, stemmed and seeded
• 1 1/2 cups chicken broth
• 1/8 teaspoon cumin seeds, lightly toasted
• 3 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
• 1 small bay leaf
• Salt to taste
• I lb. skirt steak, finely chopped
• 1/4 Mexican chorizo, casing removed and crumbled

For the Vinaigrette:

• 1 clove of garlic, chopped
• 1/4 teaspoon table salt
• 1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
• 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
• 2 teaspoons brown sugar
• Pinch of chile flakes
• 3/4 cup olive oil

For the tostadas:

• 6-8 corn tortillas, fried in vegetable oil until crisp
• 2 cups smoky chipotle black beans
• 2 cups finely shredded cabbage
• 4 radishes, sliced thinly
• 1/3 bunch of cilantro, leaves only
• 4 ounces queso fresco, crumbled
• Mexican crema or sour cream for drizzling
• Lime wedges for garnish

METHOD:

1. Make the red chile beef: Preheat an oven to 350°.  Place guajillo chiles on a sheet pan and toast in the oven for about 5 minutes, or until very aromatic.  Place the toasted chiles in a bowl and submerge them in very warm water.  Let the chiles sit for at least 20-25 minutes in order to reconstitute.  Remove the chiles from their soaking liquid and place them in a blender or food processor.  Add the chicken stock, garlic, bay leaf, cumin and salt and process until you have a nice purée.  Pass the chile purée through a sieve to remove any unprocessed skins/seeds and set sauce aside.
2. Heat olive oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat and brown the steak and chorizo in batches (about 5-7 minutes).  Once browned, drain the steak/chorizo of excess grease on paper towels.  Return the browned meat to the skillet along with the reserved purée and simmer over medium-low heat for 15 minutes, or until thickened.  Taste one last time for seasoning and allow to cool. Chill the red chile beef in the refrigerator until ready to serve.
3. Prepare the vinaigrette: Whisk together the garlic, salt, lemon juice, red wine vinegar, brown sugar and chile flakes until the sugar has dissolved.  Pour in the olive oil in a slow and steady stream, whisking constantly until emulsified.  Set aside until ready to use.
4. Assemble the tostadas: In separate saucepans, heat the red chile beef and smoky chipotle black beans.  Lightly toss the shredded cabbage, sliced radishes and cilantro leaves with just enough of the vinaigrette to coat.  Arrange the fried tortillas on a work surface and top each with 1/3 cup of the black beans and 1/4 cup of the red chile beef.  Carefully mound some of the dressed cabbage and cilantro on top of the red chile beef and finish each tostada with a crumbling of queso fresco and a drizzle of crema.  Serve with lime wedges and plenty of napkins.

Serves 6

Few dishes compliment the bold, spicy flavors of Mexican food better than a bowl of warm, perfectly seasoned black beans.  Thrown in a burrito in place of boring old pintos, these smoky black beans instantly add another dimension to your everyday Mexican repertoire.  In my opinion, this is a side that’s good enough to stand on its own as a main course.   Garnished with a bit of cilantro, some crumbled queso fresco and maybe a dollop of crema, this is Mexican comfort food at its best.  And, at a prep time of just over 30 minutes, this is great for a weeknight meal.

The main flavor component of this side dish is the earthy, smoky chipotle chile.  If you’ve never worked with the dried version before, this recipe is a great introduction; their inherent flavor shines through without being overshadowed by the tomato and vinegar based adobo sauce found in canned varieties.  For this recipe I used the morita chipotle but if you can only find canned chipotles in adobo, I definitely recommend going with La Morena brand.

SMOKY BLACK BEANS

Inspired by Cindy Pawlcyn’s, Big Small Plates

Toasting the chiles prior to soaking will help bring out their natural oils and amazing aroma. For another dimension of smoke flavor, I cook the onion and garlic in bacon grease that I save in a small jar in my fridge.  Finally, be careful when seasoning the dish with salt as some canned beans can already be a bit salty.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 14-ounce cans black beans, drained and rinsed well.
• 2 dried chipotle chiles, or canned
• 1 tablespoon lard, bacon grease, or olive oil
• 1/3 onion, finely diced
• 1 large clove of garlic, minced
• 1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin
• 1 small bay leaf
• 1 teaspoon table salt
  
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1-2 cups chicken stock
• Cilantro and queso fresco for garnish

METHOD:

1. If using the dried chipotle chiles, preheat an oven or a toaster oven to 350°.  Place the chiles on a baking sheet and toast for 5 minutes, or until aromatic. Alternatively, place the chiles in a dry  pan and toast until fragrant over moderate heat. Remove the chiles from the oven and submerge them in a small bowl of warm water for at least 20 minutes.  Once the chiles have reconstituted, drain, remove their stems and chop finely to a paste.
2. In a medium saucepan, heat the lard or olive oil over medium heat until shimmering.  Add the onion and garlic and sauté until lightly browned.  Add the cumin, bay leaf and chipotle paste.  Add the black beans to the saucepan along with just enough chicken stock to make the beans saucy.  Stir to make sure everything is well combined and simmer over low heat for 20-25 minutes to allow the flavors to meld.  Don’t be afraid to add more stock if the beans become too dry.
   
3. Season the beans with salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. Serve the beans warm, garnished with a few cilantro sprigs and a generous crumble of queso fresco.

Serves 6 as a side

I didn’t eat much roast beef growing up; the only place I ever really saw it was in sandwiches. In fact, my first encounter with this particular roast beef came about after a botched attempt at an Italian beef sandwich.  See, I have a thing for sandwiches.  I expect perfection: not too small, not too crusty, and each flavor component should burst with each bite. Unlike my reproduction of the BELT, my beef sando effort was doomed from the start. First I ruined the relish. Then I realized I wasn’t going to have nearly the jus required for an authentic, “wet” Chicago-style hoagie. Instead, I was left with a perfectly cooked,  medium-rare eye-round roast — there are worse problems, I know. Now Lauren begs me to make this “failure” every couple of weeks.

Employing a few slow-roasting techniques that I’ve picked up over the years as well some overnight salting, I’ve refined this recipe into a roast that yields superbly seasoned, tender and juicy meat.  Served alongside mashed potatoes with a horseradish cream sauce or steak sauce and you have a cheap dinner that definitely satisfies any serious beef cravings.

ROAST BEEF

An instant read meat thermometer is a must for this recipe.  When checking the meat for doneness, be sure to remove the roast from the oven and close the oven door in an effort to keep in as much heat as possible.  When it comes time to sear the meat, turn on your overhead fan and open up some windows as it can get quite smoky.  This searing process creates a flavorful crust and is well worth the effort of cleaning a blackened pan.

INGREDIENTS

• 1 2.5 lb boneless eye-round roast, tied
  
• 2 teaspoons kosher salt or 1 teaspoon table salt
• 1 teaspoon plus one tablespoon vegetable oil
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 2 teaspoons dried oregano
• 2 teaspoons dried basil
• 1 1/2 teaspoons crushed red pepper flakes
• 3 cloves of garlic, finely chopped to a paste
  

METHOD

1. The day before you plan to cook the roast, sprinkle the salt evenly over the meat, rolling it on your board to pick up excess salt that has failed to stick.  Wrap with plastic wrap and refridgerate overnight.
2. Place the oven rack in the middle position and preheat the oven to 250°.  Remove the roast from the refrigerator and use paper towels to dry excess moisture from the meat.  Rub all over with the teaspoon of oil before evenly sprinkling on the oregano, basil, red pepper flakes, pepper and garlic.
   
3. Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat until it just begins to simmer and slightly smoke.  Add the roast and sear until richly browned on all sides (including ends), 3 to 4 minutes per side.
4. Transfer the roast to a wire rack set inside a rimmed baking sheet.  Roast the meat for 1 hour and 20 minutes, or until the meat reaches 115° on a meat thermometer.
5. Turn the oven off, leaving the roast in the oven for another 30-40 minutes, or until the roast reaches an internal temperature of 130° for medium-rare or 140° for medium. Do not cook the roast past medium or the meat will be too dry.
   
6. Remove the roast from the oven to a carving board and allow to cool for at least 15 minutes.  Slice the meat as thinly as possible and serve.

serves 6

The stuffed grape leaf, oftentimes referred to as dolma, is an under appreciated member of the meze family.  In favor of the ubiquitous hummus and pita or cucumber and yogurt salad, stuffed grape leaves tend to get passed over.  In fact, one of my closest friends and my own mother find this Middle Eastern staple off-putting.  I, too, remember a time when I shied away from stuffed grape leaves based solely on the fact that the dish involved the use of a leaf. (Then again, I was 9-years-old; I’m not sure what their excuse is.)  Expecting a vegetal, grassy flavor, I was caught off-guard by the savory, sweet, and sour flavor packed inside of each tiny bundle.

Having made many different versions of stuffed grape leaves, no recipe renders more consistent and flavorful results than that of Claudia Roden’s in her spectacular cookbook, Arabesque: A Taste of Morocco, Turkey and Lebanon.  After making these from scratch you’ll find that the flavor of a homemade stuffed grape leaf is light-years away from those that come from a can.

TURKISH STUFFED GRAPE LEAVES

From Claudia Roden’s, Arabesque: A Taste of Morocco, Turkey and Lebanon

Making stuffed grape leaves can be a time consuming process, but the end result is well worth the effort as you are left with an especially elegant appetizer.  Also, cooking with grape leaves can be a bit overwhelming if you’ve never worked with them before. When soaking the preserved leaves, I like to use a large bowl and have a kettle of just boiled water handy to pour over each leaf as I remove them from the jar.  This technique makes sure that each individual leaf is surrounded by water, thus ensuring the removal of the salty brine.  When it comes time to roll them, be patient.  This seemingly difficult task becomes easier with practice.  Make sure to gather the side leaves in toward the center in an effort to keep the rolls symmetrical.  Finally, taste the rice mixture for salt before rolling it up in the leaves. If your seasoning isn’t correct at this point, there will be no way to fix it later on.

INGREDIENTS

• 1/2 pound grape leaves
• 2 large onions, finely chopped
• 2/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 2 tablespoons pine nuts
• 1 1/2 teaspoons tomato paste
• 1 cup short-grain or risotto rice
• 2 tablespoons currants
• Salt and black pepper
• 1 teaspoon ground allspice
• 2 to 3 tablespoons chopped mint
• 2 to 3 tablespoons chopped dill
• 2 tomatoes, sliced
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• juice of 1 lemon, or to taste

METHOD

1. If using grape leaves preserved in brine, remove the salt by putting them in a bowl and pouring boiling water over them. Make sure that the water penetrates well between the layers. Leave them to soak for 20 minutes, then rinse in fresh, cold water and drain. If using fresh leaves, plunge a dew at a time in boiling water for a couple of seconds only, until they become limp, then lift them out. Cut off and discard the stalks.
2. For the filling, fry the onions in 3 tablespoons of the oil over medium-high heat until soft.  Add the pine nuts and stir until they’re golden. Stir in the tomato paste until well incorporated, then add all the rest of the ingredients down to and including the chipped dill.  Mix well and set aside to cool slightly.
3. On a plate, place the first leaf, vein side up, with the stem end facing you. Place one heaped tablespoon of filling in the center of the leaf near the stem end. Fold  that end up over the filling, the fold both sides toward the middle and roll up like a small cigar. Squeeze the filled roll lightly in the palm of your hand and place seam side down on a plate. Fill the rest of the leaves in the same way.
4. Line the bottom of a large, heavy-bottomed pan with the tomato slices and any leftover torn, or imperfect grape leaves, then pack the stuffed grape leaves tightly on top.
5. Mix the remaining olive oil with 2/3 cup of water, add the sugar and lemon juice, and pour over the stuffed leaves. Put a small plate on top of the leaves to prevent them from unrolling.  Cover the pan and simmer very gently for about 1 hour, until the rolls are thoroughly cooked, adding more water occasionally if the liquid in the pan becomes absorbed. Let the grape leaves cool in the pan before turning them out.

Serves 8 or more as an appetizer

I usually do the cooking in my house, but on a recent trip to the farmers market, my girlfriend stumbled upon a vendor selling what looked to be the last of this season’s tomatoes and was instantly inspired to make this soup. A little overripe, she decided that the still beautiful specimens would taste especially good after roasting in the oven to concentrate their flavor.  Now, I myself am not the biggest tomato soup fan, but I was blown away at how delicious and flavorful the end product became. Somewhere between a tomato bisque and an earthy, slow-cooked tomato sauce, this soup had me sopping up the leftovers from the pot with a piece of toasted sourdough. Perfectly seasoned and especially comforting on a foggy San Francisco evening, my place in the kitchen might be in jeopardy if my girlfriend continues to turn out such satisfying fare.

ROASTED TOMATO SOUP

When roasting the tomatoes and bell peppers keep in mind that you want them to both soften and take on a bit of color. Once the tomatoes were in the pot, Lauren used a spatula to scrape in the residual carmelized bits from the sheet pan and added that as well. To make this more refined, just strain it through a fine mesh sieve before serving.

INGREDIENTS

• 1 lb. ripe tomatoes, halved or quartered depending on the size
  
• 2 large red bell peppers, halved and seeded
  
• 1 large onion, chopped
• 4 cloves garlic, chopped
• 1 tsp. herbes de provence
• 1/2 tsp. red pepper flakes
• 3 to 4 cups chicken stock, vegetable stock or water
• 2 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
• salt & pepper

METHOD

1. Preheat over to 375°.
2. Coat the tomatoes and bell peppers in a drizzle of olive oil and a hefty pinch of salt and pepper. Roast for 45 minutes to an hour. Remove from the oven and give the bell peppers a rough chop.
3. Heat 2 tbsp. of olive oil in a small pot. When hot, add the onions and saute over medium heat until golden. Add a pinch of salt, the garlic, the herbes de provence, and the pepper flakes. Stir until fragrant.
4. Using a spatula lift the soft tomatoes from the sheet and add to the onion mixture. Toss in the bell pepper and cook for a minute or two with the tomatoes and onions.
5. Pour in the chicken stock. You’ll want just enough to cover the tomatoes and onions. Bring to simmer and cook for 15 minutes.
6. Once the soup as come together use an immersion blender to blend the soup to your desired consistency. If necessary, feel free to add more chicken stock.
7. Taste for salt and pepper and allow to simmer 5 more minutes.
8. Serve with fresh basil and a drizzle of crème fraÎche or sour cream.

serves 2