I love chilaquiles.  In fact, I crave them so often that I drag myself out of bed early on a Saturday morning at least once a month to feast on one of my favorite versions from Primavera at the San Francisco Ferry Terminal Farmers Market.  That’s what you have to do if you’re going to try to beat the hordes of people that line up for this delicious Mexican breakfast dish every weekend.

We’ve all had huevos rancheros at one crappy diner or another at some point in our lives, but for those that have never tried authentic chilaquiles, it’s understandable how the concept could sound a bit bizarre.  Admittedly, the idea of crispy tortilla chips drowned in a sea of flavorful red chile sauce seems a bit unorthodox.  I mean who likes soggy nachos anyways? But for those that simply can’t wrap their head around the idea of a somewhat soggy nacho, I’d encourage you to think outside of Latin American cuisine to another ethnic group that also marries sauce and carbohydrates so beautifully — the Italians.

I an effort to convey the craveable aspects of this dish, I’d encourage you think of chilaquiles as you would the perfect bowl of pasta.  Here, the thick-cut (preferably homemade) tortilla chips play the role of al dente pasta that has a bit of soft crunch and resiliency left to it, but has also absorbed some of the delicious sauce that surrounds it.  Topped with spicy chorizo, tangy Mexican crema, crumbled cotija cheese and ripe avocado and you have a breakfast dish that will set you up for a whole days worth of activities…or an early afternoon nap.

RED CHILE & CHORIZO CHILAQUILES

Adapted from a Rick Bayless & Saveur Magazine Recipe

Making chilaquiles at home, likes eggs Benedict, can be a bit of an undertaking for the average home cook.  It’s for this very reason that good preparation and organization is a must.  Do yourself a favor and make the chile sauce the night before.  If you opt to make your own tortilla chips (which I highly recommend), this too can be accomplished ahead of time to alleviate the work load on the day of service. For me, chorizo and breakfast are synonymous, but if pork isn’t your thing or you find it too greasy you can always use shredded chicken or keep it vegetarian for an equally delicious plate of food.  Here I present a version with a sunny-side up egg, but serving these chilaquiles alongside some fluffy scrambled eggs is delicious (that’s how Primavera does it).  Finally, if you’re interested in making this dish but are planning on only serving two, refrigerate or freeze half of the sauce and warm the remainder in a skillet along with half of the amount of chips.

INGREDIENTS:

• 8 medium (2 ounces total) dried guajillo chiles, stemmed, seeded and torn into flat pieces
• 1 15-ounce can diced tomatoes in juice (preferably fire-roasted), drained
• 4 large garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped
• 2 1/2 tablespoons vegetable oil (divided use)
• 3 cups chicken broth
• 1⁄4 teaspoon sugar, or more to taste
• Salt
• 8 ounces (8 to 12 loosely packed cups, depending on thickness) thick homemade-style corn tortilla chips (such as the ones you buy at a Mexican grocery)
• 1/2 pound fresh Mexican chorizo, sauteed until just cooked and broken up with the back of a wooden spoon
• 4 eggs
• 1 small red onion, thinly sliced
• About 1/3 Mexican crema or sour cream
• 1/2 cup crumbled cotija cheese
• 4 radishes, very thinly sliced
• 2 avocados, peeled, pitted and diced
• Chopped cilantro for garnish

METHOD:

1. Toast the chile pieces a few at a time in a dry heavy skillet or on a griddle heated over medium, pressing them flat against the hot surface with a metal spatula until they are aromatic, about 19 seconds per side.  In a bowl, rehydrate the chiles for 20 minutes in hot tap water to cover; place a small plate on the top to keep the chiles submerged.
2. Using a pair of tongs, transfer the rehydrated chiles to a food processor or blender. Measure in 1 cup of water, add the tomatoes and garlic and process to a smooth puree. Press through a medium-mesh sieve into a bowl.
3. Heat 1 1/2 tablespoons of the oil in a medium pot or Dutch oven or a large (12-inch) deep skillet over medium-high heat. When hot, add the chile puree and stir until reduced to the consistency of tomato paste, anywhere from 7-12 minutes.  Add the broth, partially cover and simmer over medium-low heat for 20 minutes. Season with sugar and about 1 scant teaspoon. You should have about a generous 4 cups of brothy sauce.
4. Just before finishing the chilaquiles, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large skillet over medium. Add the eggs and cook on one side just until set, sunny-side up.
5. Raise the heat under the seasoned sauce to medium-high. Stir in the chips, turning to coat all of them well. Let the sauce return to a simmer, cover and turn off the heat. Let stand for 5 minutes (no longer).
6. Uncover the pot and check that the chips have softened nicely—they should be a little chewy, but not mushy. Spoon onto warm plates. Transfer an egg to each portion, crumble on the warm chorizo and drizzle each portion with the crema.  Scatter on some thinly sliced red onion, crumbled cotija cheese, sliced radishes, diced avocado and garnish with chopped cilantro.  Serve immediately.

Serves 4

If you celebrate Cinco de Mayo the way folks around here do, you’re going to need some serious grub to soak up the booze. The following recipes will not only satisfy any Mexican cravings, they’ll also lay down a base coat before your night gets going. Best of all? They can pretty much all be scaled up to feed a crowd. So enjoy responsibly and leave other Cinco de Mayo menu ideas in the comments.

TACOS, TOSTADAS, APPETIZERS

Tacos de Barbacoa

Chile-Braised Pork Tacos

Tacos de Cochinita Pibil

Red Chile Beef Tostadas

Taquitos

SALSAS & DIPS

Avocado-Tomatillo Salsa

Guacamole

Habanero Hot Sauce

Chipotle Bean Dip

Crema Mexicana

ON THE SIDE

Smoky Chipotle Black Beans

NICE & REFRESHING

Agua de Horchata

Cinco de Mayo is around the corner, and there are few hors d’œuvre in the Mexican repertoire better suited for munching on with a nice cold cerveza or margarita in hand than a crunchy, rolled taquito.  If the only kind of taquito you’re familiar with comes in a box from the frozen food aisle, then you’re in for a serious treat.  These are the real deal.  No microwaves, no ovens and no mystery meat here;  just the ear shattering crunch and savory interior of a freshly fried, homemade beef taquito.

Truth be told, I happily ate my healthy share of frozen taquitos for years. In fact, growing up I didn’t know many households that didn’t have a case buried somewhere in their freezer for snack emergencies. Throw them on plate, pop them in the microwave for a minute or so and go to town.  Let’s face it: they’re quick, convenient and the perfect vessel for your favorite condiment.  As a kid, I’d go as far as to dip mine in ketchup! It wasn’t until I decided to try a homemade version that I realized what this Mexican fingerfood could be. Where the frozen lack any serious depth of flavor and always end up being somewhere between chewy and soggy on the texture scale, the homemade is a knockout crispy treat.

These taquitos are the perfect way to use up leftover barbacoa.  In fact, I’ll even make an entire batch for the sole purpose of rolling up a few dozen of these bad boys.  If you really like them (which you will), go ahead and make a double batch and stash them in your freezer for the ultimate late night snack.  Like the kind from the box, but oh-so-much better.

TAQUITOS

Finding good, small, yellow corn tortillas is the first step in making a killer taquito at home.  In my experience, flour and/or white corn tortillas just don’t render the same results.  In order to make the tortillas pliable enough to roll into tight, cigar-like taquitos, it’s necessary to first blanch them in hot oil for a few seconds to make them pliable.  Simply steaming or warming the tortillas in a pan will not work in this instance as they are likely to crack or break during the rolling stage.  As always, I recommend getting a friend or family member involved in this process as an assembly line will pull this recipe together much more quickly than going it alone.  After the taquitos have been rolled, you can either fry them straight away using toothpicks to secure their shape or freeze them seam-side down on a parchment-line baking sheet.  Whatever you do, make sure they are tightly rolled and securely sealed to avoid unfurling in the hot oil.  I’ve gone with barbacoa beef here, but you could just as easily use leftover chile-braised pork, or pulled chicken as well.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 pounds leftover barbacoa beef, shredded
• 16-20 small yellow corn tortillas, no larger than 5-inches in diameter
• Oil for frying
• Hot Sauce, salsa and/or guacamole for dipping

METHOD:

1. Preheat oven to 200° F.  Pour oil into a heavy medium pot until it reaches a depth of 2-inches.  Heat oil over medium heat until it reaches 350° F on a candy thermometer.
2. Working one at a time, quickly dip a tortilla into the hot oil for a few seconds until completely submerged – you are not looking to crisp or cook the tortilla at this point, but rather, make it pliable.  Remove the tortilla using tongs and drain it on several layers of paper towel in order to absorb the excess oil.  Repeat this same dipping/draining procedure with the remaining tortillas.
3. To fill and roll the taquitos, place one of the pliable tortillas on a clean work surface and spoon on 2 large tablespoons or about 1.5-ounces of the shredded beef.  Using your fingers, pinch/shape the beef into a long, sausage-like row just under the center line of the tortilla.  Fold the bottom half of the tortilla up, over and around the filling, pulling snugly on the beef and rolling until you have created a tight cigar-like shape.  Rest the rolled taquito seam-side down on a sheet pan covered with parchment paper and repeat with the remaining tortillas and beef.  At this point you can freeze the taquitos for later frying or you can proceed to fry them straight away. If you plan to fry the taquitos directly after rolling, secure each seam with a carefully threaded toothpick to prevent them from unrolling in the hot oil.
4. Working in batches, fry the the taquitos until they are golden brown and and crispy throughout, about 5-6 minutes.  Transfer the cooked taquitos to a wire rack set over a paper towel-lined baking sheet and keep them warm in the oven. Repeat frying procedure with the remaining wings.
5. Place the hot taquitos on a large platter or stack them in a pyramid and serve along with your favorite Mexican salsa, hot sauce, sour cream or guacamole.

Makes 16-20 taquitos

Listen, there’s nothing wrong with sour cream out of a tub, but man can that stuff ever be thick.  That’s why I love crema — the rich, delicately sour, slightly thickened cream used in Mexican cooking.  Just look at how that stuff drizzles!  I like to think of it as a thinner version of crème fraîche. Unlike sour cream, crema Mexicana won’t break or separate when heated, making it ideal for stirring into warm sauces.  Sure there are a few good brands out there, but making it yourself at home couldn’t be any simpler.  All you need is some heavy cream, a cultured dairy product like buttermilk or yogurt and some culinary cajónes.  That’s right, in order to get this stuff to the right consistency you’re gonna have to leave it out on your counter overnight…unrefrigerated.  But don’t worry, considering the resilience of the ultra-pasteurized heavy whipping cream sold in most supermarkets, it’s gonna take a lot more than a night on your counter to spoil.  I too was a bit worried the first time I made it, but trust me, this recipe works like a charm.  The finished crema is complex, nutty and has a beautiful pourable texture, perfect for spooning on tacos, enchiladas or even a simple baked potato.  Or, do what I do and drizzle it on a plate of loaded, cheesy nachos — it certainly beats a thick glob of cold sour cream.

CREMA MEXICANA

from Rick Bayless’s Mexican Kitchen

Many crema recipes call for a bit more of the active culture to be added to the cream in order to encourage rapid thickening.  Using a mere two teaspoons will still thicken the cream considerably and the 24 hour slow culturing process will encourage more complex flavor development.  Using buttermilk will lend the finished crema a slightly nutty flavor and a beautiful texture that is perfect for drizzling on just about anything.  Using more than 2 teaspoons of the active culture will simply produce a thicker final product.  Once the cream has thickened, feel free to add any flavor components that interest you.  I will sometimes add a bit of lime juice, salt, chile or even ground cumin depending upon its eventual application. Covered and refrigerated, the crema will keep for about 10 days or so.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 cup heavy whipping cream
  
• 2 teaspoons buttermilk, crème fraîche, sour cream or plain yogurt
  

METHOD:

1. Pour the cream into a small saucepan set over low heat and stir just until the chill is off.  Do not heat the cream above 100° (lukewarm).
   
2. Remove the saucepan from the heat, stir in the buttermilk and pour into a clean glass jar.
3. Place the lid on the jar but don’t tighten it, and put in a warm spot.  Allow the cream to develop for 12 to 24 hours, until noticeably thicker.  Stir gently and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight to chill and complete the thickening process.

Makes 1 Cup

Having grown up in the Bay Area, I’m pretty accustomed to eating some damn good Mexican food.  As a true fan of the cuisine, I consider myself blessed to live within minutes of the birthplace of the original Mission-style burrito.  So, with some of the best taquerías in the entire state literally moments from my apartment, it’s with great embarrassment that I am here to say I enjoy eating at Chipotle Mexican Grill every once in a while.  Don’t get me wrong, I would NEVER pass up a burrito from one of my favorite joints here in town, but when I find myself craving some good barbacoa, I always know where I can find some.

Even though we have a taquería on every corner here in San Francisco serving mounds of carnitas, al pastor, chile verde and carne asada, very few in fact offer a version of this dish.  Good barbacoa is succulent beef that is slow-simmered in a spicy broth flavored with tangy lime juice, smoky chipotle chiles and plenty of garlic until it’s practically falling apart.  Seasoned with just the right amount of herbs, vinegar and salt, Chipotle’s come pretty darn close to some of the best I’ve ever eaten.  So, cobbled together from a few imposter recipes and knock-offs floating around the internet, along with some good, old-fashioned cooking know-how, I am here to offer my rendition of the barbacoa I’ve come to love from this massive chain restaurant .  I typically have them throw the stuff in a burrito at the restaurant, but here I serve it in authentic Mexican fashion, mounded up on a griddled tortilla and topped with diced white onion, plenty of cilantro and a lime wedge for squeezing over the top.  Pass some good bottled hot sauce or some avocado-tomatillo salsa for another great accompaniment or whip up a batch of cochinita pibil or chile-braised pork and throw a taco party.

TACOS DE BARBACOA

Slow-braising the beef is the essence of this simple recipe.  After you’ve made the adobo sauce in a food processor or blender,  make sure you dry all sides of the beef chuck before adding them to the oil in the pot.  I like to take my time when searing beef like chuck or short-ribs for braises.  Take care to brown the beef evenly without scorching or burning the fond at the bottom of the pot as this will contribute bitterness to the dish while it is simmering.  If necessary, I’ll brown the beef in two batches if I don’t have enough room to accommodate high heat searing without running the risk of steaming the meat its own juices.  Before placing the lid on the pot, cover it tightly with tin foil to create a nice seal — this will aid in the loss of moisture and liquid reduction over the long braising process.  Check the meat after a few hours or so to make sure there is sufficient moisture in the pot and add more stock if necessary to come about 1/3 of the way up the side of the beef. This dish can be completed through step 4 and refrigerated overnight.  If you decide to go down that route, store the meat separately  from any leftover braising liquid and reheat them together over low heat before serving.

INGREDIENTS

• 1/3 cup  cider vinegar
• 3 tablespoons lime juice
• 3-4 canned chipotle chiles
  
• 4 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
  
• 3 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin
• 2 teaspoons dried Mexican oregano
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
• 1 1/2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
• 1 1/2 teaspoons table salt or 3 teaspoons Kosher
  
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 4 pounds boneless chuck roast, excess fat removed
  
• 3/4 cup chicken broth, plus more as needed
  
• 3 bay leaves
• 20 warm corn tortillas
• Diced white onion, chopped cilantro and lime wedges for garnish
  

METHOD

1. Preheat the oven to 275°.
2. Combine the cider vinegar, lime juice, chipotle chiles, garlic cloves, cumin, oregano, clove, black pepper and salt in the bowl of a food processor or blender and puree until completely smooth — about a minute or so.  Transfer the spice paste to a bowl and set aside.
3. Dry the roast all over with paper towels, cut away any excess fat and slice the meat into 4 evenly sized pieces.  Heat the 2 tablespoons of oil in a very large pot set over high heat until it begins to shimmer.  Working in batches if necessary, sear the beef on all sides until deeply browned, about 10 minutes.
4. Add the chile puree to the pot and stir until the beef is well-coated.  Add the chicken stock and bay leaves and bring the liquid to a boil.  Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover the lid with tin foil and add the lid to create a very tight seal.  Place the pot in the oven and braise the meat for 5-6 hours, removing the lid during the last hour or so to allow the simmering liquid to reduce slightly. Allow the beef to cool slightly, spoon off any easily removable fat from the braising liquid and then use two forks to pull/shred the beef into bite size pieces.
5. Taste and adjust as necessary for seasonings.  Serve spooned onto warm corn tortillas topped with diced white onion, chopped cilantro and lime wedges for garnish.

Makes about 20 tacos

Let me start by saying that this is a recipe for guacamole the way I like to eat it.  Not too chunky, definitely not too smooth, bright with lime juice, and not a tomato or garlic clove in sight.  That’s right — I like to leave out the garlic and diced tomato you sometimes find in other recipes because I want the avocado to be the star.  In fact, I find the addition of garlic, even in small amounts, tends to overpower the delicate flavor of a good avocado. So, what makes my version so unique? Nothing special, really.  Just a few basic techniques that I find produce a perfectly textured, beautifully balanced guac that is as good as a dip with chips as it is a condiment on burritos, tacos and enchiladas.

My guacamole starts with ripe avocados — not the hard, vegetal tasting variety that you’re likely to find when they’ve just been delivered to your local supermarket.  With avocado prices what they are these days, in my opinion, it’s not worth the time or money to make guacamole unless you can find soft-ripe, buttery avocados to do so with.  This sometimes takes some careful planning, giving slightly under-ripe specimens the appropriate time needed to reach the proper level of ripeness.  Next, I give my guacamole a nice, healthy dose of freshly squeezed lime juice for a clean, citrusy note and finely minced serrano chiles and “deflamed” red onion for a bit of heat and textural contrast.  Finished with a bit of chopped cilantro and a good dash of salt and I’m left with a true a crowdpleaser.

This recipe doubles easily, so next time you have a group of friends coming over or are tasked with the duty of bringing a dip to your next potluck, throw out a bowl of this guacamole and watch it disappear.

GUACAMOLE

Good guacamole starts with soft-ripe avocados.  Make sure to look for avocados that yield slightly when gently pressed on their rounded blossom end.  Even the most perfect avocados can have a few dark spots here and there, so be sure to remove those once you get the flesh out of their skins.  Tossing the diced avocado in the lime juice will prevent oxidation from occurring while you prepare your other ingredients.  Be careful not mash the avocado during this step however, or you will be left with smooth puree by the time you’ve had a chance to incorporate your other ingredients.  Everyone’s tastes are different — if you are not a fan of red onion or cilantro, feel free to leave them out.  If you like diced tomatoes in your guac, add them in with the chiles before bringing everything together.  If you decide to make the guacamole earlier in the day, store it in the refrigerator by laying a sheet of plastic wrap directly on the surface of the dip to avoid that brown color that comes from oxidation.

INGREDIENTS

• 3 large (about 1 1/2 pounds) soft-ripe avocados
  
• 1-2 tablespoons fresh squeezed lime juice (from about half of a large lime)
• 1/2 cup finely diced red onion (from about half of a small onion)
• 1 – 2 serrano chiles, minced
• 1/4 cup chopped cilantro, lightly packed
• 1 1/2 teaspoon Kosher salt, plus more to taste
  

METHOD:

1. Begin by slicing each avocado in half, running your knife around the pit from stem to blossom end.  Remove the pit from each avocado by gently lodging the heel of your blade into them and twisting slightly to break them free from the flesh.  Making sure not slice through the skin, carefully score each avocado half in a 1/2-inch crosshatch pattern.  Using a large spoon, gently scoop the flesh out of each half into a large bowl.
2. Pour the freshly squeezed lime juice over the diced avocado and gently fold to coat each piece.  You’re not looking to mash the avocado at this point, just toss it with lime juice to prevent oxidation.
3. Scoop the finely diced red onion into a strainer and rinse it under cold running water to remove some of its pungency.  Drain the onion well before throwing it in on top of the diced avocado in the bowl.  Do not stir to incorporate at this point.
4. Toss in the minced chiles, chopped cilantro and salt.  Stir, lightly mashing the avocado with the back of a spoon or rubber spatula until all the ingredients are well incorporated and you’ve reached your desired texture/consistency.  Allow the guacamole to sit for at least 30 minutes at room temperature in order for the flavors to come together.  Taste for salt and acidity, adjusting as necessary.
5. Serve at room temperature for optimal flavor.

Makes about 2 cups

If you’re wondering why I’m posting another pork taco recipe, try to understand that this is the type of food that I crave.  Comforting, flavorful food that fills the belly and is easy on the pocketbook.  Anyone who’s read my blog knows by now that I love Mexican food, so instead of  waxing poetic about the various influences that have colored my fondness for all fare south-of-the-border, let me explain what makes cooking dishes like this so appealing.

For me, a bowl of chile-braised pork sitting in my refrigerator represents a week’s worth of filling meals and tasty snacks to come.  A  3-pound piece of pork shoulder will make somewhere close to twenty tacos.  That’s ten servings coming from a piece of meat that costs somewhere around $11. 00 – $12.00 dollars.  Not a bad deal if you ask me.  Strapped for time on the weeknights?  Make this recipe your “Sunday braise” and reap the benefits of succulent homemade pork for the entire week.  It might take a bit of time and planning to prepare the chile paste, but if you do any kind of Mexican cooking at home, odds are you already have everything you need in your pantry.

If you’re adverse to heat, its important to know that the dried chiles in this recipe render a dish that is by no means spicy, but rather earthy and complex — subtly perfumed with spices like clove, allspice and oregano.  Still, as delicious as this may be, even I can tire of tacos. Fortunately, this recipe makes for an outstanding all-purpose Mexican pork.  It’s just as delicious in a burrito, rolled up with beans, sour cream, salsa and guac, or in a cheesy quesadilla. I’ve even had it alongside eggs or topped on tortilla chips like mini tostadas. Next time I’ll be throwing it in a soft roll and serving it as a torta.

CHILE-BRAISED PORK TACOS

Adapted from Rick Bayless’s Mexican Kitchen

Outside of making and searing the chile paste, this recipe is as easy to put together as any other slow-braised pot roast.  When soaking the chiles, I like to make sure they are completely covered by the warm water by adding in a smaller, inverted bowl to keep them submerged for the full 30 minutes.  If you don’t have any guajillo chiles on hand in the pantry, try substituting New Mexico or California chiles.  Don’t have any dried chipotles? Use the canned ones packed in adobo instead.  Searing the chile paste in a hot pan is an essential step in the development and concentration of chile flavor in this dish — stir constantly to avoid scorching and watch out for splattering.  This dish can be completed through step 4 and refrigerated overnight.  If you decide to go down that route, store the meat separately  from any leftover braising liquid and reheat them together over low heat before serving.  Finally, I like to warm and toast my tortillas slightly over an open gas flame.  After flipping them a few times to make them pliable, stack them wrapped in tin foil or a clean kitchen towel until ready to serve.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 medium dried ancho chiles, stemmed and seeded
• 4 medium dried guajillo chiles, stemmed and seeded
• 1 dried chipotle chile, stemmed and seeded
• 2 bay leaves
• 2 tablespoons cider vinegar
• 1/2 small white onion, roughly chopped (plus a few thinly sliced rings for garnish)
• 2 cloves of garlic, roughly chopped
• 1 teaspoon dried Mexican oregano
• 1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
• Pinch of ground cloves
• 1 1/2 tablespoon vegetable oil
• 1/2 teaspoon table salt (plus more to taste)
• 3 pounds, boneless pork shoulder
• Warm corn tortillas
• Sour cream, hot sauce, thinly sliced radishes and cilantro, for garnish

METHOD:

1. Place the chiles in a small bowl, cover with very warm water and let stand for 30 minutes.  Drain, reserving 2/3 cup of the soaking liquid, then transfer the rehydrated chiles and the reserved liquid to a blender.
2. Pulverize the bay leaves in a spice grinder or mortar and pestle and add them to the blender along with the vinegar, onion, garlic, oregano, allspice and cloves.  Process to a smooth puree, adding water if needed to keep the mixture moving through the blades.  Press through a medium mesh strainer into a bowl.
3. Set a large, 6-quart pot with a lid over medium-high heat and add the oil.  When very hot and almost smoking, pour in the puree and stir constantly until it sears, concentrates and darkens into a spicy-smelling paste, about 5 minutes.  Remove the pot from heat and season the sauce with salt.
4. Preheat the oven to 325°.  Cut the pork shoulder into slabs about 3-inches thick.  Lay the meat into the pot with the chile paste, then flip it over to cover evenly, spooning on more sauce over the top to coat the pork well.  Pour 1/2 cup water around the meat, cover tightly and place in the oven.  Roast for 2 1/2 hours, basting the meat every 30 minutes with the liquid and rendered fat that accumulates.  If all of the moisture evaporates, feel free to add more water to the plan to allow you to continue basting. Let the pork rest for 20-30 minutes before serving.
5. Shred or pull the meat apart into-bite size pieces using two forks.  Toss the meat to incorporate any of the leftover chile braising liquid, check for seasoning and add more salt to taste.
6. Place the chile pork in a warm bowl and serve alongside the warm corn tortillas.  Have your guests assemble their own tacos, adding their own garnishes to taste.

Makes about 20 tacos

You’d never know it, but just off of Highway 1, in the sleepy Sonoma Coast town of Gualala, there lives an authentic gem of a taquería the likes of which are seldom found in the heart of a big city.  Tucked into the corner of the ever-depressing Sundstrom Mall and flanked by a glowing bakery case packed with a plethora of sub-par pastries you’ll find, Gualala Pizza & Bakery.  Try not to let the name fool you — or the locals for that matter (they’ll be the ones inexplicably munching away on pizza and burgers), it’s the Mexican food you’re here for, and man is it ever good!  We’re talking handmade corn tortillas, carnitas-packed gorditas, delectable barbacoa burritos and my personal favorite: Baja-style, beer-battered salmon tacos.  Everything is fresh, delicious and affordable, but for me, it’s their “complimentary” avocado-tomatillo salsa that has me coming back to this place.

Slathered on tacos or used as a dip for their fried-to-order tortilla chips, this sauce is good on anything.  I was beginning to think that I was the only one who had an unhealthy relationship with this spicy green salsa, that is, until a family member stepped forward to shed light on their own addiction.  My sister confessed to regularly smuggling out a few extra containers to use at home for her own culinary concoctions.  It may be paranoia, but I think they might have caught-on to our little scheme because they no longer set out those little plastic cups.  So, suffering from severe withdrawal, I finally set out to whip up a batch myself.

It took patience and careful planning, but by asking the ladies behind the counter a few well-positioned questions scattered over the course of a couple of visits, I was able to deduce that it consisted of canned (not fresh) tomatillos as its base with ripe avocado accounting for its creamy texture.  With only a handful of obvious ingredients (lime, chiles, garlic) making up the remainder of the mix, I played around with several brands of tomatillos and searched for the perfect ratio of avocado.  In the end, I think I got something that’s pretty close.  My cravings have been dealt with for now, but it’s only a matter of time before I get a hankering for one of those unbeatable fish tacos.

AVOCADO-TOMATILLO SALSA

This is one of those salsas that is extremely easy to adjust to personal taste, so don’t be afraid to add more or less of any of the suggested ingredients.  I personally love a biting, fiery sauce so I choose to use a minimum of 2 serrano chiles when making my batches.  If you prefer a salsa more akin to traditional guacamole, feel free to use an entire avocado instead of the half for an even creamier texture.  I only like to use a little garlic when making this condiment as adding too much can quickly overwhelm the other flavors.  This is also one of the rare instances where I choose to forgo the use of cilantro, as it’s addition tends to detract from the brightness of the canned tomatillos.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 12-ounce can, drained, whole tomatillos
• 1/2 large ripe avocado, roughly chopped
• 1 small clove of garlic, roughly chopped
• Juice of 1/2 a large lime
• 1-2 medium serrano chiles, roughly chopped
• 3/4 teaspoon Kosher salt

METHOD:

1. Place all of the ingredients into the bowl of a food processor and process until the components are well-incorporated into a smooth sauce, about 30-40 seconds.

Makes about 1 1/2 cups

If you have any smoky chipotle black beans leftover, you might want to consider making this tostada — a dish that represents the marriage of two of my all-time favorite recipes.

Lucky enough to live only a short drive from the Napa Valley, I’ve had the opportunity to dine at Cindy Pawlcyn’s restaurants since I was a boy.  Having eaten amazing meals at Go Fish and Mustards Grill, the most memorable dish came on a visit to Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen for lunch when I first tasted her famous Rabbit Tostada.  Imagine tender, juicy chile-braised rabbit nestled on top of warm, earthy black beans and a crispy fried tortilla.  Finished with a refreshing salad of herbs, thinly sliced cabbage and tart feta cheese, quite simply, this is as good as a tostada can get.

The other half of this recipe comes from pioneering chef, Robert Del Grande and his restaurant, Cafe Annie.  While I still haven’t had the opportunity to visit the iconic Houston restaurant, I have made his signature bar staple, Black Bean Nachos with Red Chile Beef.  With each tortilla chip covered in the perfect amount of over five different flavor components, it goes without saying that these were the most delicious and extravagant nachos I’d ever eaten.  However, at a prep time of close to three hours, I haven’t gotten around to making them as often as I would like.

Hence, the Red Chile Beef Tostada was born.  Taking key elements from each dish, I’ve put together a recipe that pays homage to the very best of each chef.  Rich, meaty red chile beef fills in for the guajillo-braised rabbit in Cindy’s dish, whereas a black bean topped tostada and refreshing cabbage slaw takes the place of the bite-size nacho in Robert’s.  The result is too delicious to describe. You’re just going to have to try it.

RED CHILE BEEF TOSTADAS

Inspired by Robert Del Grande’s, Black Bean Nachos with Red Chile Beef from Saveur, Issue #97 and Cindy Pawlcyn’s, Big Small Plates

Toasting the chiles in the oven is a quick and easy way to wake up their dormant flavor prior to soaking.  After I make the purée, I like to pass the chile sauce through a fine mesh sieve in order to catch any stray seeds and skin.  This simple step produces a beautiful, velvety sauce.  When preparing the skirt steak, I like to chop the meat by hand in order to control the size of the pieces.  That being said, pulsing the meat in a food processor or passing it through the coarse dial of a meat grinder would also work very well.  Finally, when assembling the tostadas you can gently mash the smoky black beans to help them to sit on the tortilla without rolling off.

INGREDIENTS:

For the Red Chile Beef:

• 9 dried guajillo chiles, stemmed and seeded
• 1 1/2 cups chicken broth
• 1/8 teaspoon cumin seeds, lightly toasted
• 3 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
• 1 small bay leaf
• Salt to taste
• I lb. skirt steak, finely chopped
• 1/4 Mexican chorizo, casing removed and crumbled

For the Vinaigrette:

• 1 clove of garlic, chopped
• 1/4 teaspoon table salt
• 1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
• 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
• 2 teaspoons brown sugar
• Pinch of chile flakes
• 3/4 cup olive oil

For the tostadas:

• 6-8 corn tortillas, fried in vegetable oil until crisp
• 2 cups smoky chipotle black beans
• 2 cups finely shredded cabbage
• 4 radishes, sliced thinly
• 1/3 bunch of cilantro, leaves only
• 4 ounces queso fresco, crumbled
• Mexican crema or sour cream for drizzling
• Lime wedges for garnish

METHOD:

1. Make the red chile beef: Preheat an oven to 350°.  Place guajillo chiles on a sheet pan and toast in the oven for about 5 minutes, or until very aromatic.  Place the toasted chiles in a bowl and submerge them in very warm water.  Let the chiles sit for at least 20-25 minutes in order to reconstitute.  Remove the chiles from their soaking liquid and place them in a blender or food processor.  Add the chicken stock, garlic, bay leaf, cumin and salt and process until you have a nice purée.  Pass the chile purée through a sieve to remove any unprocessed skins/seeds and set sauce aside.
2. Heat olive oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat and brown the steak and chorizo in batches (about 5-7 minutes).  Once browned, drain the steak/chorizo of excess grease on paper towels.  Return the browned meat to the skillet along with the reserved purée and simmer over medium-low heat for 15 minutes, or until thickened.  Taste one last time for seasoning and allow to cool. Chill the red chile beef in the refrigerator until ready to serve.
3. Prepare the vinaigrette: Whisk together the garlic, salt, lemon juice, red wine vinegar, brown sugar and chile flakes until the sugar has dissolved.  Pour in the olive oil in a slow and steady stream, whisking constantly until emulsified.  Set aside until ready to use.
4. Assemble the tostadas: In separate saucepans, heat the red chile beef and smoky chipotle black beans.  Lightly toss the shredded cabbage, sliced radishes and cilantro leaves with just enough of the vinaigrette to coat.  Arrange the fried tortillas on a work surface and top each with 1/3 cup of the black beans and 1/4 cup of the red chile beef.  Carefully mound some of the dressed cabbage and cilantro on top of the red chile beef and finish each tostada with a crumbling of queso fresco and a drizzle of crema.  Serve with lime wedges and plenty of napkins.

Serves 6

Few dishes compliment the bold, spicy flavors of Mexican food better than a bowl of warm, perfectly seasoned black beans.  Thrown in a burrito in place of boring old pintos, these smoky black beans instantly add another dimension to your everyday Mexican repertoire.  In my opinion, this is a side that’s good enough to stand on its own as a main course.   Garnished with a bit of cilantro, some crumbled queso fresco and maybe a dollop of crema, this is Mexican comfort food at its best.  And, at a prep time of just over 30 minutes, this is great for a weeknight meal.

The main flavor component of this side dish is the earthy, smoky chipotle chile.  If you’ve never worked with the dried version before, this recipe is a great introduction; their inherent flavor shines through without being overshadowed by the tomato and vinegar based adobo sauce found in canned varieties.  For this recipe I used the morita chipotle but if you can only find canned chipotles in adobo, I definitely recommend going with La Morena brand.

SMOKY BLACK BEANS

Inspired by Cindy Pawlcyn’s, Big Small Plates

Toasting the chiles prior to soaking will help bring out their natural oils and amazing aroma. For another dimension of smoke flavor, I cook the onion and garlic in bacon grease that I save in a small jar in my fridge.  Finally, be careful when seasoning the dish with salt as some canned beans can already be a bit salty.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 14-ounce cans black beans, drained and rinsed well.
• 2 dried chipotle chiles, or canned
• 1 tablespoon lard, bacon grease, or olive oil
• 1/3 onion, finely diced
• 1 large clove of garlic, minced
• 1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin
• 1 small bay leaf
• 1 teaspoon table salt
  
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1-2 cups chicken stock
• Cilantro and queso fresco for garnish

METHOD:

1. If using the dried chipotle chiles, preheat an oven or a toaster oven to 350°.  Place the chiles on a baking sheet and toast for 5 minutes, or until aromatic. Alternatively, place the chiles in a dry  pan and toast until fragrant over moderate heat. Remove the chiles from the oven and submerge them in a small bowl of warm water for at least 20 minutes.  Once the chiles have reconstituted, drain, remove their stems and chop finely to a paste.
2. In a medium saucepan, heat the lard or olive oil over medium heat until shimmering.  Add the onion and garlic and sauté until lightly browned.  Add the cumin, bay leaf and chipotle paste.  Add the black beans to the saucepan along with just enough chicken stock to make the beans saucy.  Stir to make sure everything is well combined and simmer over low heat for 20-25 minutes to allow the flavors to meld.  Don’t be afraid to add more stock if the beans become too dry.
   
3. Season the beans with salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. Serve the beans warm, garnished with a few cilantro sprigs and a generous crumble of queso fresco.

Serves 6 as a side