This recipe for sweet and spicy pork ribs is one of my family’s all-time favorites.  Seems like every time the warm summer weather rolled around, we could expect my Mom to whip up a batch of these sticky ribs to eat out on the patio on a warm night.  Their flavor is so unique and the dish itself so craveable that I was stunned to learn how simple they are to prepare.  If you have a can of sliced peaches in heavy syrup, a pinch of crushed red pepper and a bottle of supermarket barbecue sauce in the pantry, then you’re in business.  Now, I’m a nut for good, slow-smoked, true barbecue, but if you need to feed a crowd and don’t have the time or equipment needed to produce the genuine article, these will do just fine.  Serve with some baked beans and grilled corn and you’ve got a dang good BBQ dinner.

SPICY PEACH BARBECUE SPARE RIBS

Braising these ribs in their aromatic broth until just tender not only infuses them with outstanding flavor of but also allows you to cook enough for a large group without the effort the involved in hours of roasting or smoking the meat.  (For those of you with the means and time to do so, you can just as easily smoke these ribs or roast them in a pan, tightly sealed with tin foil, until tender and the meat has pulled back from the ribs about a quarter inch or so.) While the braising liquid adds a ton of flavor, it’s the peach BBQ sauce that really sets these apart from the rest. As much as I love homemade versions or the artisan varieties available on the market, good old Cattleman’s or Bulls-Eye work just fine here. When it comes time to baste the ribs with the sauce, don’t rush the process.  Keep in mind that the barbecue sauce is high in sugar and will burn quickly if you’re not careful.  Instead, grill the ribs over low heat, basting and turning them often until their richly caramelized and blackened in spots.  Allow the first coat to dry/caramelize before applying the subsequent layers.  Finally, if pork loin or baby back ribs are more your style, feel free to use them in this recipe and reduce the braising time to about 50 minutes.

INGREDIENTS:

Braising Liquid

• 1 large onion, coarsely chopped
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 teaspoons cinnamon
• 1 tablespoon dried basil
• 1 1/2 teaspoons ground allspice
• 1 1/2 teaspoons ground ginger
• 1 teaspoon crushed dried hot red chilies
• 3 dried bay leaves

Peach Barbecue Sauce:

• 1 (16 ounce) can sliced peaches, drained
• 1 -2 teaspoons crushed dried hot red chilies
• 1 bottle (18 oz ) prepared barbecue sauce

METHOD:

1. Place ribs in a large stock pot. Add all ingredients for braising liquid, and fill pot with water just to cover.
2. Bring to boil: cover and turn the heat down to a very gentle simmer for 1 hour to an hour and 20 minutes, or until the ribs are tender.
3. Puree peaches in a blender or food processor with prepared barbecue sauce and chili.
4. Drain ribs and lay them flesh-side down on a grill above medium-hot coals (or preheat gas grill to medium-hot).
5. Baste the ribs frequently with the peach/barbecue sauce and turn the ribs to develop a rich brown glaze, about 20 minutes.  Warm any remaining peach barbecue sauce and serve in a bowl alongside the glazed ribs.

Serves 6-8

The real title of this post should be “Mom’s Meatloaf,” as this is the very same recipe I grew up eating as a child.  A perennial favorite in our household, few meatloaves deliver in the way this barbecue sauce-topped rendition does.  The epitome of comfort, my Mom would be the first to tell you that this dish is “hard to screw up.”  In fact, it’s the simplicity of this recipe that makes it a true standout in my mind.  Perfect for company, yet quick and easy enough for a weeknight meal, this tender and juicy meatloaf comes together in no time and feeds a crowd for next to nothing.  Covered with a sweet, tangy homemade barbecue sauce, this meatloaf is sure to please even the pickiest of eaters as few can resist it’s sticky, ketchup-like topping.  If you love meatloaf but can’t justify the saturated fat, substitute ground turkey for a version that is just as tasty and quite a bit healthier — you’ll barely notice the difference.  As good cold as it is served warm, this recipe also makes for a killer meatloaf sandwich.  So, in a world filled with so much bad meatloaf, do yourself a favor and go with a tried-and-true recipe that works.  Your family, friends and significant others will thank you.

CLASSIC MEATLOAF

The beauty of this recipe is in its simplicity.  I like to briefly saute the onion prior to adding it to the loaf mixture in an effort to bring out a bit of its sweet character and remove a bit of its rawness.  I use panko instead of traditional breadcrumbs as I find their addition creates a more tender, lighter textured final meatloaf.  The barbecue sauce in this recipe is what makes this version a true winner.  I’ve outlined the basic technique below, but feel free to add any of your favorite ingredients to this simple sauce.  It will still appear to be a bit thin when added to the top of the meatloaf prior to baking, but don’t worry; it will thicken substantially during the hour and a half bake time in the oven.  Once cooked, the meatloaf will have given up some of its juices.  This is normal.  Allow the meatloaf to rest, as this will ensure that it reabsorbs some of those precious, flavorful juices.  If you are inclined to do so, defat the accumulated juices and reduce them in a small saucepan over low heat until slightly thickened for a killer gravy to top your sliced meatloaf.  Finally, feel free to use a combination of beef, pork and veal or go all beef or turkey if you want.  Either way, it’ll still turn out solid.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 medium onion, finely minced
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
  
• 1 pound ground beef
  
• 1 pound ground pork
• 1 cup panko breadcrumbs
  
• 1 14-ounce can tomato puree, divided
  
• 2 large eggs, lightly beaten
• 4 teaspoons Kosher Salt
• 1 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 teaspoon dried thyme
• 1/3 cup chopped parsley
• 2 tablespoons mustard
• 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
  
• 2-3 tablespoons brown sugar
• 1/4 teaspoon chipotle pepper powder or BBQ seasoning
  

METHOD:

1. Preheat the oven to 350°
2. Heat the olive oil in a small skillet over medium heat until hot and sweat the onion, stirring occasionally until just translucent and no longer raw, about 5 minutes.  Transfer the onion to a plate and allow to cool.
3. In a large bowl, combine the beef, pork, breadcrumbs, cooled onions, half the tomato puree, eggs, salt, pepper, thyme and parsley.  Using clean hands, mix the ingredients thoroughly until well combined.  Lightly pack the mixture into a greased loaf pan and set aside while you prepare the barbecue sauce.
4. In a small saucepan, add the remaining tomato puree along with the mustard, cider vinegar, brown sugar, and chipotle powder.  Season the barbecue sauce to taste with salt and pepper and bring to a gentle simmer and allow to thicken slightly, about 5-8 minutes.  Remove the sauce from the heat and allow to cool a bit.
5. Pour the warm barbecue sauce on top of the prepared meatloaf and bake in the oven for 1 1/2 hours, or until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of the meatloaf registers 150°.  Remove the loaf from the oven and place it on a rack to rest for at least 15-20 minutes.  Once rested, pour off excess juices (setting aside for gravy if desired), remove the loaf from the pan and slice into 1-inch thick slices.  Serve at once.
   

Serves 6-8

If you’re wondering why I’m posting another pork taco recipe, try to understand that this is the type of food that I crave.  Comforting, flavorful food that fills the belly and is easy on the pocketbook.  Anyone who’s read my blog knows by now that I love Mexican food, so instead of  waxing poetic about the various influences that have colored my fondness for all fare south-of-the-border, let me explain what makes cooking dishes like this so appealing.

For me, a bowl of chile-braised pork sitting in my refrigerator represents a week’s worth of filling meals and tasty snacks to come.  A  3-pound piece of pork shoulder will make somewhere close to twenty tacos.  That’s ten servings coming from a piece of meat that costs somewhere around $11. 00 – $12.00 dollars.  Not a bad deal if you ask me.  Strapped for time on the weeknights?  Make this recipe your “Sunday braise” and reap the benefits of succulent homemade pork for the entire week.  It might take a bit of time and planning to prepare the chile paste, but if you do any kind of Mexican cooking at home, odds are you already have everything you need in your pantry.

If you’re adverse to heat, its important to know that the dried chiles in this recipe render a dish that is by no means spicy, but rather earthy and complex — subtly perfumed with spices like clove, allspice and oregano.  Still, as delicious as this may be, even I can tire of tacos. Fortunately, this recipe makes for an outstanding all-purpose Mexican pork.  It’s just as delicious in a burrito, rolled up with beans, sour cream, salsa and guac, or in a cheesy quesadilla. I’ve even had it alongside eggs or topped on tortilla chips like mini tostadas. Next time I’ll be throwing it in a soft roll and serving it as a torta.

CHILE-BRAISED PORK TACOS

Adapted from Rick Bayless’s Mexican Kitchen

Outside of making and searing the chile paste, this recipe is as easy to put together as any other slow-braised pot roast.  When soaking the chiles, I like to make sure they are completely covered by the warm water by adding in a smaller, inverted bowl to keep them submerged for the full 30 minutes.  If you don’t have any guajillo chiles on hand in the pantry, try substituting New Mexico or California chiles.  Don’t have any dried chipotles? Use the canned ones packed in adobo instead.  Searing the chile paste in a hot pan is an essential step in the development and concentration of chile flavor in this dish — stir constantly to avoid scorching and watch out for splattering.  This dish can be completed through step 4 and refrigerated overnight.  If you decide to go down that route, store the meat separately  from any leftover braising liquid and reheat them together over low heat before serving.  Finally, I like to warm and toast my tortillas slightly over an open gas flame.  After flipping them a few times to make them pliable, stack them wrapped in tin foil or a clean kitchen towel until ready to serve.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 medium dried ancho chiles, stemmed and seeded
• 4 medium dried guajillo chiles, stemmed and seeded
• 1 dried chipotle chile, stemmed and seeded
• 2 bay leaves
• 2 tablespoons cider vinegar
• 1/2 small white onion, roughly chopped (plus a few thinly sliced rings for garnish)
• 2 cloves of garlic, roughly chopped
• 1 teaspoon dried Mexican oregano
• 1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
• Pinch of ground cloves
• 1 1/2 tablespoon vegetable oil
• 1/2 teaspoon table salt (plus more to taste)
• 3 pounds, boneless pork shoulder
• Warm corn tortillas
• Sour cream, hot sauce, thinly sliced radishes and cilantro, for garnish

METHOD:

1. Place the chiles in a small bowl, cover with very warm water and let stand for 30 minutes.  Drain, reserving 2/3 cup of the soaking liquid, then transfer the rehydrated chiles and the reserved liquid to a blender.
2. Pulverize the bay leaves in a spice grinder or mortar and pestle and add them to the blender along with the vinegar, onion, garlic, oregano, allspice and cloves.  Process to a smooth puree, adding water if needed to keep the mixture moving through the blades.  Press through a medium mesh strainer into a bowl.
3. Set a large, 6-quart pot with a lid over medium-high heat and add the oil.  When very hot and almost smoking, pour in the puree and stir constantly until it sears, concentrates and darkens into a spicy-smelling paste, about 5 minutes.  Remove the pot from heat and season the sauce with salt.
4. Preheat the oven to 325°.  Cut the pork shoulder into slabs about 3-inches thick.  Lay the meat into the pot with the chile paste, then flip it over to cover evenly, spooning on more sauce over the top to coat the pork well.  Pour 1/2 cup water around the meat, cover tightly and place in the oven.  Roast for 2 1/2 hours, basting the meat every 30 minutes with the liquid and rendered fat that accumulates.  If all of the moisture evaporates, feel free to add more water to the plan to allow you to continue basting. Let the pork rest for 20-30 minutes before serving.
5. Shred or pull the meat apart into-bite size pieces using two forks.  Toss the meat to incorporate any of the leftover chile braising liquid, check for seasoning and add more salt to taste.
6. Place the chile pork in a warm bowl and serve alongside the warm corn tortillas.  Have your guests assemble their own tacos, adding their own garnishes to taste.

Makes about 20 tacos

Let’s be honest — this dish isn’t going to be winning any beauty pageants anytime soon.  With it’s reddish-brown color scheme and thick, chili-like texture, this isn’t the type of recipe that turns many heads on Foodgawker or Tastespotting.  So, like a friend who’s just set you up on a blind date with an aesthetically challenged individual, I implore you to move past its humble appearance and try to get to know the soul of this comforting dish.

For me, this is cold weather fare at its best.  A warm, stick-to-your-ribs type meal that’s like a hug from a loved one.  Creamy lentils and sausages combine to produce a dish that is both high in protein and rich in savory flavor.  The best part? It’s cheap and simple to make.  In fact, you probably already have everything to make it your kitchen.  All you really need is a handful of lentils, a few sausages from the fridge, a leftover glass of wine, and you can have a filling and satisfying meal at a moment’s notice.  This is hearty food that reheats well and makes great leftovers.

If looks don’t matter, you might have found your new soul mate.

SAUSAGE AND LENTIL STEW

I like to use French green lentils in this recipe because they hold their shape and retain great texture when cooked for long periods of time.  If you don’t have any on hand, feel free to substitute brown lentils but expect a slightly different finished texture.  If you want a healthier version of this stew, omit the bacon and pour off all of the rendered sausage fat after browning.  If you decide to go down this route, simply substitute a couple of tablespoons of good olive oil before cooking the vegetables.  Feel free to use any herbs or spices you have lying around your kitchen.  I’ve made this with everything from rosemary to curry powder with excellent results, so experiment away. Finally, I’ve found that other sausages work well in this application.  Merguez and goat would also make for a stellar stew.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 slices smoky bacon
• 4 sweet or hot Italian sausages, cut into 1-inch pieces
  
• 1 cup petite French lentils, rinsed and drained
• 1 cup diced carrot
• 1 medium onion, diced
• 5 cloves garlic, finely chopped
• 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leave
• Crushed red pepper flakes
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 cup dry red wine
• 1 14-ounce can tomatoes, crushed
• 2 cups chicken stock
• 2 roasted red peppers, sliced 1/4-inch thick
• 4 sprigs of parsley
  
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
• 1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
  
• Chopped parsley for garnish

METHOD:

1. Set a large, heavy-bottomed pot over moderately-low heat and cook bacon until the fat has rendered.  Using a slotted spoon, remove the bacon from the pot and set aside.  Increase the heat to moderately-high and brown the sausage pieces in the reserved bacon fat.  Be careful not to crowd the pot; fry the sausages in separate batches if necessary.  Once they are sufficiently caramelized (about 8 minutes per batch), remove the browned sausage pieces to a plate using a slotted spoon.
   
2. Lower the heat to moderate and add in the carrots, onion and garlic. Sauté until softened and just beginning to brown, about 10 minutes.  Add in the crushed red pepper flakes, bay leaves and thyme and sauté another 5 minutes.  Add in the red wine to deglaze and scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the pot with the back of a wooden spoon.  Allow the wine to reduce by half before adding the lentils, tomatoes, chicken stock, red peppers and parsley.
3. Add the cooked bacon and sausages back into the pot along with any juices that may have collected.  Stir to mix well and bring to a boil.  Turn down the heat and simmer for an hour, or until the lentils are just al dente.  Stir occasionally to prevent scorching.
   
4. Stir in the balsamic vinegar and season the lentil stew with salt and pepper to taste.  Garnish with chopped parsley and serve.

Serves 4

You know how bacon is all the rage these days? Bacon dipped in chocolate, bacon topped donuts, bacon beurre blanc – for me, it’s all about chorizo.  I’m constantly looking for ways to incorporate it into my cooking and seldom pass up an opportunity to eat a dish in which it is a key component (see Arroz Con Pollo).  Such was the case when I came across this recipe for Goat Cheese and Chorizo Rolls in this month’s Food and Wine Magazine.  Now chorizo is good by itself, but chorizo and tangy goat cheese together?  That sounded like a combo that was too good to pass up.

With a few holiday parties just around the corner, I figured I’d give these guys a test drive before serving them to any guests.  In this sense I consider myself a self-employed guinea pig — not a bad job at all.  After eating a half batch for lunch, I can say with certainty that I have a new hors d’oeurve recipe in the arsenal.  Tangy from the goat cheese and rich and smoky from the chorizo, these crispy little bundles are the type of finger food that demand a good cocktail to wash them down.  While they take a bit of time and patience to roll, preparing the goat cheese filling takes minutes.  Knock these out early in the morning and keep them in the fridge until your friends arrive.

After reading that the recipe was inspired by the street food of Argentina, I decided to serve them alongside another Argentine classic of chimichurri rojo.  Like it’s verde cousin, this sauce has plenty of garlic and a nice vinegar bite to cut through the rich, creaminess of the goat cheese.

GOAT CHEESE AND CHORIZO ROLLS

From Nirmala Narine’s, Nirmala’s Edible Diary

I learned my lesson about working with phyllo dough the hard way when I attempted to unroll a partially defrosted package and it crumbled into a thousand brittle shards.  Read the package carefully and make sure to let your phyllo defrost completely before trying to work with it.  Also, I’ve found its best to cover the reserved sheets with a damp towel while you’re rolling the first batches in an effort to keep them from drying out.  When it comes time to roll up the filling, be sure to gather in the sides as you go.  Don’t be afraid to gather and pinch the sides a bit during this step as it will help seal in the filling and prevent the cheese from leaking out during baking.  Finally, make sure to buy dry-cured Spanish-style chorizo and not the fresh, Mexican variety found at the butcher counter.  This might be common knowledge for most, but I know this can be confusing for some who are not accustomed to cooking with this sausage.

INGREDIENTS:

• 8 ounces fresh goat cheese
• 1 cup chopped dry chorizo
• 1 1/2 tablespoons minced chives
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Nine 12-by-16-inch sheets of thawed phyllo dough
• Melted butter, for brushing

METHOD:

1. Preheat oven to 400° and line two large baking sheets with parchment paper.  In a bowl, combine the goat cheese, chorizo and chives.  Season to taste with salt and pepper.
2. Lay a sheet of phyllo on a clean, dry work surface and brush it with melted butter.  Top with two more sheets, lightly buttering each as you go.  Cut the layered phyllo into six long rectangles.  Place one tablespoon of the goat cheese filling at the base of each rectangle and roll up the phyllo, folding in the sides as you go.  Repeat twice more to make 18 rolls total.
3. Place the rolls on the prepared baking sheets and brush the rolls with butter; bake for 10 minutes, or until golden.  Serve hot with chimichurri rojo for dipping.

Makes 18 Rolls

CHIMICHURRI ROJO

If you’d like this a bit thicker try adding a tablespoon or two of plain yogurt  or sour cream.  It also makes a fantastic marinade for meat and can be worked into a delicious salad dressing.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1/2 cup sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar
• 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
  
• 1 1/2 tablespoons hot paprika
• 2 teaspoons cayenne pepper
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 teaspoon toasted and ground cumin seeds
• 1 bay leaf broken in half
• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
  

METHOD:

1. Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl and whisk to incorporate.

Before I even knew what dim sum was, I was a fan of the pork bun.  Each week, after visiting clients near Clement Street in San Francisco, my Dad would arrive home with a bright pink box, packed tightly with a half a dozen of these delicious stuffed buns.  Salty, sweet and intensely savory, these hand-held delights quickly became a favorite snack of mine growing up; pop one in the microwave for about a minute, and I was ready to go.

These days, I treat pork buns with a bit more reverence, carefully wrapping them in foil before placing them in a warm toaster-oven so as not to disturb their delicate, fluffy texture.  As with most of the food I love, I’m a bit fanatical when it comes to finding the best specimen available, and living in the Bay Area, there are plenty of options to choose from.  That being said, there is something especially gratifying about baking and eating your own.  The best part? Using all-natural pork and skipping the red dye #40.

BAKED BARBECUE PORK BUNS

Adapted from The Dim Sum Book: Classic Recipes from the Chinese Teahouse, Eileen Yin-Fei Lo

This is a fairly labor intensive recipe which is best made over the course of a couple of days.  If you can, roast the pork and make the filling one day, then prepare the dough and bake the buns the next.  You won’t need all of the char siu pork for the bun filling, but it keeps for a month in the freezer and also makes for a delicious filling in Vietnamese bahn mi sandwiches.  Assembling the buns can be tricky and is definitely a task that requires patience and a bit of practice for good looking results.  Author Eileen Yin-Fei Lo recommends starting out by only filling the buns with 1 teaspoon of the pork mixture until you have the stuffing and pinching technique down.

CHAR SIU PORK

Ingredients:

• 2 – 2 1/2 pounds lean pork butt
• 1 1/2 tablespoons dark soy sauce
• 1 1/2 tablespoons light soy sauce
• 1 1/2 tablespoons honey
• 1/4 teaspoon table salt
• 1 1/2 tablespoons oyster sauce
• 1 tablespoon blended whiskey
• 1 1/2 tablespoons hoisin sauce
• 1/4 teaspoon white pepper
• 1 small cake, wet preserved bean curd from a jar
  
• 1/2 teaspoon five-spice powder

Method:

1. Cut the pork into 1-inch thick strips.  Using a small knife, pierce the meat repeatedly at 1/2-inch intervals to help tenderize it.
2. Combine all of the remaining ingredients in a small bowl and whisk to dissolve the bean curd and honey.  Place sliced and tenderized pork into a large, resealable plastic bag and pour the mixture over the top.  Seal the bag and massage the marinade into the meat, making sure to coat each piece well.  Refrigerate the pork for at least 4 hours, or as long as overnight.
3. Preheat the oven to broil.  Line a roasting pan with aluminum foil and place the pork, along with it’s marinade, in a single layer along the bottom.
4. Place the roasting pan on the center rack of the oven and roast for 30 to 50 minutes, turning and basting the meat every 5 minutes, until fully cooked.  If the sauce begins to dry out, add water to the pan.  To check for doneness, place an instant-read thermometer into the thickest part of one of the pieces of pork.  It should register 160°.
5. Allow the meat to cool and refrigerate it until you are ready to use it.

BUN FILLING:

Ingredients:

• 1 cup onion, diced into 1/4-inch pieces
• 1 1/2 cup char siu pork , cut into 1/2 inch, thinly sliced pieces
• 2 tablespoons peanut oil
• 3 teaspoons white wine
• 2 tablespoons oyster sauce
• 3 teaspoons dark soy sauce
• 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoons ketchup
• 2 1/2 teaspoons sugar
• Pinch of white pepper
• 4 1/2 teaspoons cornstarch
• 5 ounces chicken broth
• 1 teaspoon sesame oil

Method:

1. In a small bowl, whisk to combine the oyster sauce, dark soy, ketchup, sugar, white pepper, cornstarch and chicken stock.  Set aside.
2. Heat a wok or large skillet over medium-high heat for 30-4o seconds.  Add peanut oil and heat until shimmering and just beginning to smoke slightly.  Add onions, turn the heat to low and cook until the onions are lightly browned, about 8 minutes.
3. Add the sliced pork, raise the heat to high and stir-fry to combine with the onions.  Add white wine to deglaze the pan and mix well.
4. Lower the heat again and add the reserved sauce mixture from the bowl.  Stir until the entire mixture thickens and turns a dark shade of brown, about 5 minutes.  Add sesame oil and mix well.
5. Remove the pork mixture from the skillet and spread on a large plate to allow the mixture to quickly come to room temperature.  Refrigerate uncovered for 4 hours.

BUN DOUGH:

Ingredients:

• 1 package dry yeast
• 1/3 cup sugar
• 1/2 cup hot water (115°)
• 2 cups high-gluten bread flour
• 1/2 egg, beaten
• 5 tablespoons lard or vegetable shortening

Method:

1. In a large mixing bowl, dissolve the yeast and sugar in the water.  Place the bowl in a warm place to allow the yeast to activate, about 30-60 minutes. A brownish foam will have formed on top.
2. Add the flour, egg and lard/shortening and stir continuously with your hand until a dough mass begins to form.
3. Begin to gather the dough in the bowl, and when the mixture becomes cohesive, turn it out onto a lightly floured surface for kneading.
4. Knead the dough for about 15 minutes, picking it up with a scraper and sprinkling the surface with more flour if it begins to stick.
5. When the dough is smooth and elastic, place it in a large mixing bowl and cover with a lightly dampened towel.  Allow the dough to rise in a warm place until it has tripled in size, about 2-3 hours.

ASSEMBLE AND BAKE THE BUNS:

1. Cut 12 squares of parchment paper, 3 1/2 by 3 1/2 inches.
2. Remove the dough from the bowl and knead several times.  Roll it out with your hands into a roll about 12 inches long.  Using a knife or a scraper, divide the dough into 12 1-inch pieces.  Work with one piece at a time, keeping the others under a damp kitchen towel.
3. Roll each piece of dough into a ball, then, with fingers, press on the center of the sphere to create a dome and a well.
4. Place 2 teaspoons of filling into the well, hold the bun in one hand, and, with the other, turn the bun while gathering the edges and pinching it closed.  Press firmly to seal.
5. Place the completed bun, sealed-end-down on a square of parchment paper.  Repeat for the other buns.
6. Place all of the completed buns on a cookie sheet at least 2 inches apart to allow for expansion.  Put the buns in a warm place to allow to rise for another 1 hour.
7. Preheat the oven to 350°.  Using a spray bottle, spray each bun lightly with warm water and then brush each with beaten egg.
8. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, turning the pan around halfway through baking to promote even browning.  When the buns are golden brown, remove them from the oven and serve immediately. 
   

The buns can be frozen after baking. To reheat, defrost and bring to room temperature.  Cover with foil and place in a 350° oven for 10 15 minutes or until hot.

Makes 12 buns

These lettuce cups might be a little too P.F. Chang’s for some people, but this is a recipe I’ve come back to time and time again for quick, delicious results.  Big on flavor and a cinch to prepare, ginger pork lettuce cups are an amazing start to an Asian-inspired menu and have even taken center stage on more than one dinner occasion.

Here, unctuous ground pork and umami-rich oyster sauce mingle with crunchy water chestnuts and finely diced red bell pepper to create a filling that is as appealing to the eye as it is to the palate. The contrast in texture between the hot, salty filling and the cool, crispy lettuce is a combination that has me coming back to this recipe over and over again.  The best part? Once you have all the necessary ingredients in your pantry, whipping this dish up on a weeknight is as easy as it gets.

GINGER PORK LETTUCE CUPS

Adapted from the August, 2006 issue of Food & Wine Magazine

When making the ginger pork mixture, I like to let it sit out for a few minutes to allow the flavors to marry and the ingredients to come up to room temperature. When stir-frying the pork, it’s important to use as high of heat as your stove will allow.  Be sure to stir the mixture constantly and break up any large lumps.  The goal is to drive away as much moisture from the pork as possible so that it will have a chance to caramelize in the fat.  There is something especially appealing about eating the pork in lettuce leaves but it would also be delicious served over rice.  Minced chicken or turkey would also make fine substitutes for the pork in this dish.

INGREDIENTS:

• 3/4 pound ground pork
• 1  medium red bell pepper, finely diced
• 1 serrano or thai bird chile, finely minced
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 1 tablespoon minced, peeled ginger
• 1 tablespoon Thai sweet chili sauce
• 1 tablespoon fish sauce
• 1 teaspoon sesame oil
• 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon peanut or grapeseed oil
• 1 8-ounce can whole water chestnuts, drained and finely diced
• 2 scallions, thinly sliced
• 2 tablespoons oyster sauce
• 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
• 24 Boston lettuce leaves

METHOD:

1. In a medium bowl, combine the ground pork with the diced red bell pepper, minced chile, garlic, ginger, fish sauce, chile sauce, sesame oil and 1 tablespoon of the peanut or grapeseed oil.  Set the bowl aside and allow the flavors to come together for at least 15 minutes at room temperature.
2. Heat a large skillet or wok over high heat.  Allow the skillet to get screaming hot before adding in the pork.  Stir-fry the mixture over high heat, breaking it up, until the pork is cooked through and beginning to brown, about 8 minutes.  Stir in the oyster sauce, diced water chestnuts, scallions and cilantro and remove from heat.
3. Serve the ginger pork in a bowl along with a stack of the lettuce leaves on a plate.  To eat, spoon some of the ginger pork onto a lettuce leaf, roll up and enjoy.
   

Makes enough for 6 appetizer servings or dinner for two

While my Mom is good at cooking many things, my Dad and I both agree that she is especially great at making delicious, comforting soups.  From minestrone and lentil to chicken tortilla and roasted butternut squash, she would be the first to point out that, “it’s kind of hard to screw up soup”.  Ever the modest chef, my Mom’s casual approach to cooking is something I look to emulate in the kitchen on a daily basis.  With a propensity to sweat the small stuff when it comes to recipe components and cooking techniques, it is while making soup that I feel the most at ease.  In fact, I’ve found that soup making can be one of the most relaxing of kitchen tasks.  Throw a bunch of quality ingredients in a pot, simmer low and slow until the flavors come together and you have a simple and satisfying supper with leftovers for the week.

A hearty and warming soup, split pea with ham is one of my all-time favorites for the Fall because of its earthy flavor, rustic texture and tender shreds of smoky pork.  There are countless way to make this comfort classic, but I am particularly fond of adding bit of cream sherry at the end of cooking for a unique, sophisticated sweetness.  This is a very simple soup to prepare and certainly one falls into the category of dishes that are difficult to screw up.

SPLIT PEA SOUP

Adding the dried peas to the pot in two installments guarantees a good amount of texture to the soup.  Be sure to simmer the soup for the entire recommended length of time before adding any salt as the smoked ham hock will contribute a good amount of its own.  The addition of cream sherry at the end of cooking makes for a grown up flavor that slightly sweetens the soup while adding complexity and another dimension of flavor. This soup really thickens after a bit of refrigeration.  When reheating, it’s best to keep some extra stock (or water) on hand to thin down the soup to your desired consistency.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 cup chopped yellow onion (about one medium onion)
• 1/2 tablespoon garlic (about 1-2 cloves)
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano or dried thyme
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 2 cups diced carrots
• 1 cup diced, unpeeled red skin potatoes
  
• 1 pound dried split peas
• 8 cups chicken stock or water
• 1 2 1/2 – 3 1/2 pound bone-in, smoked ham hock
  
• Kosher salt to taste
• 1 tablespoon cream sherry (optional)
  

METHOD:

1. In a 6-quart pot, heat olive oil over medium heat and sauté the onions, garlic, dried herbs and pepper until translucent and soft, about 10 minutes.
2. Add the smoked ham hock and sauté briefly until it begins to color slightly, about 5 minutes.
3. Add the carrots, potatoes and 3/4 of the dried split peas.  Add in the stock or water, bring to a boil and then turn the heat down to low and simmer uncovered for 40 minutes.  Skim off foam periodically as it collects on the surface.
4. After 40 minutes, add in the remaining split peas and continue to simmer for another 40-50 minutes, stirring every once in a while to make sure that the peas don’t scorch on the bottom of the pot.
5. Carefully remove the ham hock from the hot soup to a clean plate.  Allow the ham to cool slightly before pulling the meat from the bone and shredding it into bite size pieces.
6. Return the shredded ham to the pot and swirl in the optional cream sherry.  Add kosher salt to taste.
   
7. Serve warm in bowls garnished with a Parmesan crouton.
   

Serves 5-6

PARMESAN CROUTONS

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 sourdough baguette
• Olive oil for brushing
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
• Finely chopped fresh thyme or oregano

METHOD:

• Preheat the oven to 400º.
• Slice baguette on a bias into 1/4 thick pieces.  Place bread slices on a baking sheet and brush each with olive oil before sprinkling on kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper.
• Top each slice with a sprinkling of grated cheese and minced herbs and bake in the oven for 20 minutes, or until the bread is golden brown and the cheese is bubbly.
• Serve croutons at room temperature.

On a recent trip down to Cabo San Lucas, Lauren and I had dinner at a restaurant serving the largest margaritas I’d ever seen and some pretty decent Mexican food, as well. We were told this is where we would find the most authentic cuisine in town. After paying off the Mariachi band to stop harassing us and shrugging off the guy selling roses, “authentic” is not the word that came to mind.  Still, the food was good.  That night I ordered Tacos de Cochinita Pibil for the first time, and while I’m sure they’re better in the Yucatan, I thought this was a great alternative to your run-of-the-mill taco plate.

Not your crispy, sometimes greasy carnitas or dried out carne asada, this meat was juicy beyond belief and delicately flavored with achiote and garlic.  Served on handmade tortillas and topped with housemade salsa and tart pickled red onions, this might have been the best food I had on the entire trip.

When I got back home, I set out to recreate the dish and picked up a copy of Rick Bayless’s Mexican Kitchen for $6.00 at a used bookstore.  The tacos were met with rave reviews from friends, even without the influence of ginormous maragaritas.

TACOS DE COCHINITA PIBIL

from Rick Bayless’s Mexican Kitchen

While you can buy achiote seasoning from most Mexican markets, the paste will offer a more pronounced flavor.  When making the paste, keep in mind that achiote seeds will dye your hands and cutting board red.  If you don’t want to make a huge mess, do what I did and make your paste in a mortar and pestle if you have one. I couldn’t find banana leaves on short notice and decided to omit them; the dish still tasted spectacular.

INGREDIENTS:

For the Achiote Seasoning Paste:

• 2 tablespoons achiote (annato) seeds
• 2 teaspoons allspice preferably fresh ground
• 1 teaspoon fresh ground black pepper
• 1 teaspoon dried Mexican oregano
• 3 tablespoons cider vinegar
• 6 garlic cloves, peeled
• 1 generous teaspoon table salt

For the Tacos:

• 2-pound piece lean boneless pork shoulder
• 6 tablespoons sour orange juice or 1/4 cup fresh lime juice plus 2 tablespoons fresh orange juice
• 2 12-by-18-inch pieces of banana leaf (optional)
• 16  to 18 fresh corn tortillas
• 1 1/2 cups pickled red onions (recipe follows)
• cilantro sprigs for garnish

METHOD:

1. Makes the achiote paste: Very finely grind the achiote seeds in a spice grinder or mortar and pestle.  In a small bowl mix in the allspice, pepper, oregano and vinegar.  Roughly chop the garlic, sprinkle with the salt and work into a fine paste on your cutting board.  Add the achiote mixture to the garlic and work the two together until well mixed.  If necessary, dribble on and work in up to two tablespoons of water to give it the consistency of a thick but spreadable paste.
2. Marinate the pork: In a large bowl, mix together the juice and the achiote paste.  Add the pork along with the achiote marinade to a large resealable zip-top bag and smear the mixture into every crevice of the meat.  Refrigerate overnight.
3. Roast the Pork: Preheat the oven to 325°.  If using banana leaves, line them along the inside of a large dutch oven, draping the excess over the sides of the pot.  Set the meat in the pot and scrape all the remaining marinade over the top before enclosing it in the banana leaves.  If you’re not using the leaves, just throw everything in the pot.  Drizzle one cup of water around the meat and put the lid on the pot and roast until very tender, about 3 hours.  Be sure to check the liquid level in the pot occasionally and replenish with water if it looks to be drying up too quickly.  After roasting, use two spatulas to remove the meat to a cutting board and pour the juices into a large measuring cup or gravy separator.
   
4. Prepare the meat for tacos: Once the meat has cooled a bit, roughly chop or shred the meat and sprinkle it with a little salt before returning it to the pot it was roasted in.  Spoon the fat off of the juices, then pour a little into the shredded pork to to keep it moist.  Cover and keep warm over low heat.  Transfer remaining juices to a small sauce pan to keep warm.
5. Serve the tacos: Steam or griddle the tortillas and set aside wrapped in tin foil or a large, thick kitchen towel.  Serve the tacos by placing 2-3 tablespoons of the cochinita pibil into each tortilla and ladling on a portion of the warm juices. Top with pickled red onions and a few sprigs of cilantro.

This recipe can be made 2 to 3 days ahead through step three.  Cover and refrigerate the meat separate from its juices.

Serves 6-8

PICKLED RED ONIONS:

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 small red onion, peeled and sliced 1/8 inch thick
• 1/4 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
• 1/4 teaspoons cumin seeds
• 1/2 teaspoons dried mexican oregano
• 2 cloves of garlic, peeled and halved
• 1/4 teaspoon table salt
• 1/3 cup cider vinegar

METHOD:

1. Blanch the onion slices in salted boiling water for 45 seconds.  Drain and place in a bowl.
2. Coarsely grind the peppercorns and cumin in a mortar and pestle or spice grinder and add to the onions.  Add the remaining ingredients plus enough water to barely cover. Let stand for several hours at room temperature until the onions turn pink and the flavors marry.  Onions can be stored for two weeks in the refrigerator.

Makes 1 cup

Having never been to New Mexico, I am by no means an expert on green chili. While I’ve made a Mexican version of chile verde in the past with the addition of tomatillos, this authentic New Mexico version relies exclusively on the smokey, complex flavor of roasted green chiles.

My sister, having visited the Southwest on several occasions, oftentimes regales me with stories “of the best tasting green chili on the planet” and boasts about the fact that you can get “roasted green chilies on anything.”  Judging by how fanatical the inhabitants of the state are about food in general and especially their famous green sauce, I have no doubt that I would fit right in.

Knowing how fascinated I am by the humble, yet satisfying cuisine of he Southwest, one of the first cookbooks my girlfriend ever purchased for me was Huntley Dent’s, The Feast of Santa Fe: Cooking of the American Southwest.  While the picadillo recipe has already become one of our all-time favorite weeknight meals, after preparing this authentic green chili, we just might have discovered our new, slow-cooked Sunday sauce.  If the sound or look of this dish doesn’t get you excited, throw some green chilies in the oven to roast and their intoxicating aroma certainly will.

NEW MEXICO GREEN CHILI WITH PORK

Adapted from Huntley Dent’s, The Feast of Santa Fe: Cooking of the American Southwest

When roasting fresh chilies, I prefer to use the stove top gas burner to char off the skin. However, when dealing with this many chilies, the only feasible kitchen solution is to use the broiler.  After roasting, I typically steam the chilies in a bowl covered tightly in plastic wrap.  For this recipe, I suggest placing them into a paper grocery bag.  Once you’re ready to chop the roasted chile flesh, use a food processor to pulse them down to your desired consistency.

INGREDIENTS

• 1 lb pork shoulder roast, cut into one-inch cubes
• 4 tablespoons vegetable oil or olive oil
• 1 small onion, chopped
• 2 tablespoons jalapeños, chopped
• 2 large garlic cloves, chopped
• 1/4 cup flour
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 3 cups chicken or pork broth
• 2 cups roasted and peeled green chilies, obtained from 18 -20 Anaheim, California or poblano chiles
• 1/2 teaspoon oregano
• 1 teaspoon salt

METHOD

1. Roast the chilies: Turn your broiler on to high. Begin by placing half of the fresh green chilies on a cookie sheet and placing them under your preheated broiler for 5 minutes, or until the chilies are charred on one side. Remove the pan from the oven and flip chilies to char their underside, about another 5 minutes.  Remove chilies from the oven to a brown paper bag and close tightly to allow the skin to steam away from the flesh. Repeat with the remaining chilies.
2. Once the all the chiles have cooled, remove them from the paper bag and stem the chilies, removing the charred skin and seeds.
3. Place the cleaned, roasted chile flesh to a bowl of a food processor and pulse several times until you have reached your desired texture. Set roasted chiles aside.
4. Brown the Pork: Heat the oil in a large pot over high heat. Lightly season the cubes of pork with salt and add them to the pot, cooking until browned, about 8-10 minutes.  Once browned, remove pork from the pot with a slotted spoon and set aside. Pour off any excess fat, leaving 1/4 cup remaining.
5. Make the green chili: Add the onions, jalapeños and garlic to the remaining oil in the pot. Cover and cook over low heat for about 5 minutes to sweat the onions. Check halfway to make sure they are not browning.
6. Raise the heat to medium and stir in the flour, cumin and black pepper, and cook, stirring for 2 minutes to cook the rawness out of the flour and scrape up any browned bits. When the onion and flour mixture just begin to color, remove the pot from the heat and gradually pour in the broth, whisking constantly to prevent any lumps.
7. Return the pork to the pot along with the roasted chilies, oregano and salt. Place the pot back over moderate heat and bring the mixture to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 30 minutes or until the sauce has thickened a bit and the pork is tender. Make sure to stir the sauce occasionally while simmering.
8. The finished sauce should be thick enough to nap a spoon. If it’s too thick, thin with a bit of extra broth.
9. Serve with warm flour tortillas.

serves 8