Every once in a while I’ll spend a Sunday afternoon making some Thai curry paste. Like I mentioned in my recipe for panang curry paste, a quick trip to the Asian market for a few hard to find ingredients and about an hour in the kitchen with your mortar and pestle will set you up for a good month of authentic Thai cooking at home.

As far as I’m concerned, this stuff is money in the bank.  It keeps for a  up to a month in the fridge and is perfect for pulling together a bona fide Thai meal in minutes.  Stir-fry the paste, some meat and a few handfuls of seasonal vegetables in your favorite wok, add in some stock, palm sugar, fish sauce and Thai basil, throw it all on top of some sticky rice and you’ll be set up for some truly delicious eating.

Unlike a red, green or yellow curry, phrik khing is considered a “dry-style” curry, free of any coconut milk.  Instead, the paste is fried in oil and moistened with a bit of stock to create a sauce that clings to the protein and veggies.  The resulting dish can be characterized as smooth and a bit peppery with fragrant notes of galangal and lemongrass throughout.

So, next time you’re looking for something to cook on a lazy Sunday afternoon, consider making some homemade curry paste and look forward to reaping the rich culinary dividends of delicious Thai meals in the weeks that follow.

PHRIK KHING CURRY PASTE

From True Thai: The Modern Art of Thai Cooking

Do yourself a favor and get your mise en place in order before setting out to make this paste.  Soak your chiles, wrap your shrimp paste in foil, zest your limes and peel your shallots and you’ll be able to pull the paste together in and efficient, organized fashion.  The guajillo chiles used here are mild and fruity, so if you’re looking for a paste with a bit more heat, feel free to add in some fresh or dried Thai chiles to the mix.  This recipe calls for the use of a mortar and pestle as well as food processor, but you can certainly get away with just using one or the other.  Store it in the fridge for about a month and in the freezer for up to three.

INGREDIENTS:

• 6 large dried Guajillo chilies
• 1 teaspoon shrimp paste, wrapped neatly in a double layer of aluminum foil
• 1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 tablespoon minced fresh Kaffir lime peel or domestic lime peel
• 1 large stalk lemongrass, outer leaves discarded, lower stalk trimmed to 3 inches and finely sliced
• 1 1/2 teaspoons finely chopped, peeled fresh galangal, or common ginger
• 1/4 cup chopped garlic
• 1/2 cup shallots

METHOD:

1. Stem the chilies and shake out most of the seeds. Cut the chilies in half lengthwise and remove any tough, dried ribs. Cut them crosswise into 3/4-inch pieces and put in a bowl. Cover with water and soak for 30 minutes. Set a small skillet on medium heat. Place the foil-wrapped shrimp paste in the skilled and cook for about 5 minutes, until aromatic, turning the packet over once or twice. Remove the packet from the skillet and set aside to cool.
2. Put the peppercorns in a large, heavy mortar and grind them to a powder. Transfer ground pepper to the bowl of a food processor. Add the salt.
3. Combine the minced lime peel, lemongrass and ginger in the mortar and pound for a minute to break down the fibers. Pound the garlic and shallots in the mortar just until crushed and transfer to the food processor. Unwrap the shrimp paste and add it to the food processor. Drain the chilies, reserving about 1/2 cup of the soaking liquid. Add the chilies to the food processor.
4. Process the ingredients until a rich, moist paste forms, stopping occasionally to scrape down the sides of the work bowl. Add a few tablespoons of the chili-soaking liquid now and then, if needed to ease the grinding.

Makes about 1 1/2 cups

When I told everybody I was making a barbecue chicken pizza for my website, people asked me why I wasn’t making Thai chicken pizza instead.  Truthfully, I didn’t realize it was such a beloved item on the California Pizza Kitchen menu.  I’ve always loved them — in fact, I almost ate my weight in the frozen version while I was in college — but I never realized that other people shared my same propensity.  For me (and apparently pretty much everyone else), there is something undeniable about the combination of aromatic peanut sauce, green onions and carrots, all  piled high on a chewy crust and topped with cheese. Not at all Italian, totally un-Thai, just “American” grub at its most adaptive.

The best part of making this particular pizza at home is you can get as creative as you want. I left off the usual bean sprouts, but you could certainly add them for extra crunch. And no need to break out the crushed red pepper flakes.  Here I use sriracha chili sauce to add a little bite, but of course, if spicy’s not your thing, feel free to leave it off. A sprinkling of freshly chopped Thai basil in addition to or in lieu of the cilantro (for those cilantro-haters out there) would be a perfect compliment to the sweet, salty flavor of the peanut sauce. No matter how you top it, if you like peanut sauce, you’ll love this pizza. Plus, no tipping necessary when you’re cooking out of your own kitchen.

THAI CHICKEN PIZZA

When assembling this pizza, feel free to add as little or as much of the toppings as you want, but keep in mind that a pizza that is too heavily loaded with ingredients can end up cooking unevenly and may result in a messy final pie.  The balance of flavors is key, not the amount you can fit on the dough.  If you want even more crunch in your finished pizza, consider adding the carrots after baking as opposed to before.  I use Thai marinated grilled chicken breasts in this recipe for added authenticity, but you should feel free to use store-bought rotisserie chicken if you’re short on time — the flavorful peanut sauce should provide more than enough flavor.  I’ve said it before, but if you’re serious about making pizza at home and still don’t have a pizza stone, it should be at the top of your priority list.

INGREDIENTS:

• 24 ounces homemade or store-bought pizza dough, divided
• 1/2 cup all-purpose flour, for dusting
• About 1 1/4 cups homemade Thai peanut sauce (or store-bought)
• 1 cup grated mozzarella cheese
• 1 cup cooked grilled Thai chicken, diced (recipe below)
• 4 green onions, thinly sliced
• 1 large carrot, julienne or coarsely grated
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 1/4 cup roasted peanuts, coarsely chopped
• 1/4 cup cilantro, coarsely chopped
• Sriracha chili sauce for garnish (optional)

METHOD:

1. Place a pizza stone in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 500°.  Allow the stone to heat for at least half and hour before baking pizzas.
2. Allow the pizza dough to come to room temperature.  On a lightly-floured work surface, form the dough into two large balls, collecting the sides and tucking them under to create a smooth outer surface.  Cover the dough with a damp towel and allow to rest for at least 20 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, warm the peanut sauce in a saucepan set over low heat until heated through and pourable.
4. Generously dust a wooden peel or the back of a sheet pan with flour or cornmeal. With lightly-floured hands, press the dough with your fingertips to form a flattened disk.  Lift the dough up and use the back of your knuckles to stretch and thin-out the dough into a circle with a diameter of 12-inches. Be careful to preserve the edge of the dough if you want a light, chewy crust. Carefully position the stretched dough onto the prepared peel or baking sheet.
5. Using a ladle, spoon an even layer of the peanut sauce onto the dough and carefully spread it close to the border being careful to leave a 1/2-inch edge.  Top with an even layer of mozzarella cheese followed by pieces of the diced Thai chicken, green onions and carrots.  Top with a light sprinkling of a bit more mozzarella.  Lightly brush the exposed crust with a bit of the vegetable oil to promote browning.
6. Slide the pizza onto the preheated stone and bake until the crust is crisped and golden and the cheese is bubbling, about 6-7 minutes.  Remove from the oven and sprinkle with the roasted peanuts,  freshly chopped cilantro leaves and sriracha. Serve immediately.

Makes 2 Pizzas

BANGKOK-STYLE GRILLED CHICKEN BREAST

This is a fantastic coconut milk marinade for chicken.  It works just as well with whole, butterflied chickens as well as bone-in, skin-on pieces.  Here I use the marinade on boneless, skinless breasts.  If you don’t have an outdoor grill or grill pan, feel free to roast the breasts in a 425° oven.  You won’t be able to develop as much caramelization, but the chicken will still be quite flavorful.  The marinade contains a bit of sugar, so monitor your heat closely and watch for burning.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 boneless, skinless chicken breasts
• 7 ounces (1/2 can) coconut milk
• 1 tablespoon curry powder
• 1 tablespoon fish sauce
• 3 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
• 1/4 cup loosely packed chopped cilantro, including stems
• 1 tablespoon brown sugar
• 3/4 teaspoon white pepper

METHOD:

1. Place the chicken breasts on a cutting board and lightly score each side in a crosshatch pattern with a sharp knife to allow the marinade to penetrate.
2. Combine the coconut milk, curry powder, fish sauce, garlic, cilantro, sugar and pepper in a bowl.  Stir well and until sugar has dissolved and marinade is smooth.  Place the chicken breasts in a resealable plastic bag and pour the marinade in on top.  Seal the bag and massage the marinade into the meat to ensure an even coating.  Refrigerate the chicken and leave it to marinate for at least 3 hours or as long as overnight.
3. Prepare a charcoal grill for direct heat grilling over medium-low heat or preheat a grill pan over medium-low heat.  Place the chicken on the grill and cook, moving the chicken if any flare-ups occur, until slightly charred in spots and cooked through to an internal temperature of 160°, about 7-8 minutes per side.
4. Remove the chicken from the grill and transfer to a platter. Allow the meat to rest for 5-10 minutes before slicing.

For me, peanut sauce served as a definitive gateway flavor into what would be come a lifelong addiction to Thai cuisine. Having grown up on a steady diet of peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, it wasn’t until I first tasted the peanut sauce that accompanied my Mom’s chicken satay from the Thai spot in our mall food court that I came to realize that peanut butter could be used in savory dishes as well. To my young developing palate, peanut sauce was at once exotic and familiar.  Salty, sweet and rich with warm Thai spices, the run-of-the-mill skewered chicken soon became a vehicle for what I really wanted: the sauce.

I’ve made many versions of peanut sauce over the years and have come to recognize this rendition as my go-to, all-purpose recipe.  Used as a dip, tossed with rice noodles or as a condiment for jasmine rice, I’m sure you’ll find this sauce has many amazing applications.  While some recipes include everything from soy sauce and grated ginger to garlic and chili sauce, this particular version gets it’s nuance and depth from aromatic Thai curry paste.  Along with a few other simple yet flavorful ingredients, it’s the paste that takes this sauce to the next level and lend it that authentic taste.  It goes without saying that a fresh, homemade curry paste will render an exceptionally fragrant final sauce, but if you’re strapped for time, store-bought red curry paste from a jar makes a perfectly suitable alternative.

THAI PEANUT SAUCE

Adapted from Victor Sodsook’s, True Thai: The Modern Art of Thai Cooking

This is a simple and forgiving recipe with very few ingredients that comes together quite quickly.   It’s easy to adjust the final sauce to suit your own taste.  Some brands of peanut butter can already be a bit sweet, so feel free to scale back the amount of brown sugar called for in the recipe.  This recipe makes a rich, thick sauce that can easily be thinned out with warm water or more coconut milk if a lighter consistency is preferred.  I will also sometimes add a bit of lime juice along with the fish sauce to cut through the richness for certain applications.  Expect a lot of sauce, but don’t worry; it keeps well refrigerated for up to 3 weeks. Finally, too high of heat during the cooking process can break the sauce, separating the oil from the rest of the ingredients.  If this happens, don’t panic.  Simply lower the heat and whisk the sauce vigorously to reincorporate the oil.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 can (14-ounces) unsweetened coconut milk
• 6 tablespoons homemade panang, masaman or store-bought red curry paste
• 2/3 cup peanut butter (chunky or smooth)
• 7 tablespoons light or dark brown sugar
• 2 tablespoons fish sauce

METHOD:

1. Heat the coconut milk in a medium saucepan set over medium heat, stirring occasionally until it has reaches a gentle boil.
2. Add the curry paste and stir until well incorporated and fragrant, about 3 minutes.
3. Add in the peanut butter and cook, stirring constantly for about 1 minute.
4. Reduce the heat to low and add in the brown sugar, stirring until dissolved.
5. Remove the peanut sauce from the heat and stir in the fish sauce.  Thin with warm water if a lighter consistency is desired.
6. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Makes about 2 1/2 cups

Ah, the good ol’ days: when spending 30 bucks on Thai takeout was just your typical Wednesday night. Now, income-less, Thai food along with Chinese and pizza seems like quite the luxury. These days I’m making my own Thai food, and to be honest, not missing a thing.  At home, I make Thai food the way I like it.  Very spicy, fairly salty and just a little sweet. Such is the beauty of having curry pastes sitting in your freezer ready at your disposal.  What seems like an exotic and esoteric cuisine on the surface is actually fairly simple to prepare at home.

I like to think of panang as a great beginner curry for those that are new to Thai cuisine.  Reminiscent of everybody’s favorite peanut dipping sauce which accompanies the ubiquitous satay, panang is at once both bright and aromatic while at the same time, rich and comforting.

I’m lucky enough to live in San Francisco where I can find pretty much anything I need at any of the many Asian markets.  However, if you love Thai food and can’t find a store that stocks such items as palm sugar, lime leaves, or good Thai coconut milk, check out www.importfood.com for everything you need (and then some).

PANANG BEEF CURRY

Once you have the hard part of making the paste out of the way, this curry comes together quite quickly.  Make sure to use a good, full-fat brand of coconut milk when making this dish.  The thick cream that settles at the top of each can is rich in oil and acts as the perfect stir-frying medium to bloom the curry paste’s aroma and flavors.  Many panang recipes call for the addition of ground peanuts instead of peanut butter.  Either makes a fine choice, but I love the velvety texture that comes from using the stuff in jars.  Finally, adjust the final seasoning to your own tastes.  Some people like their curry sweeter or saltier than others, so feel free to add more fish sauce or palm sugar along the way to fit your own palate.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 19 fl. oz can Thai coconut milk (I use Mae Ploy brand)
• 4-5 tablespoons homemade Panang curry paste
• 1 lb. beef cross rib roast, sliced 2 x 1/4 inch thick
• 3-4 tablespoons fish sauce
• 2 tablespoons palm sugar
• 2 tablespoons all-natural peanut butter (smooth or crunchy)
• 1/2 cup water
• 4-6 Thai chilies, split lengthwise
• 2-3 limes leaves cut into a chiffonade for garnish
• Lime wedges for garnish

METHOD:

1. Skim the thick cream from the top of the can of coconut milk into a large saucepan, reserving the watery milk.  Set the saucepan over medium-high heat and stir the cream vigorously until the glossy oil surfaces.
2. Add the curry paste and continue to stir vigorously until fragrant and a red oil surfaces, about 2 minutes.
3. Add in the sliced beef and stir to coat well with the curry mixture.  Add in the remaining coconut milk, fish sauce, palm sugar, peanut butter, water and chilies.  Stir to dissolve the the peanut butter and palm sugar and simmer over low heat for one hour, or until the curry has reduced into a thick sauce and the beef is very tender.
4. Taste the curry for for salt and sweetness.  If it needs more salt, add a few more dashes of fish sauce, if it needs to be sweeter, add more palm sugar.
5. Transfer the curry to a serving bowl and garnish with the lime leaf chiffonade.  Serve with lime wedges.

Serves 4

Maybe I watched too many episodes of The Naked Chef when I was younger, but in my mind, there are few kitchen activities more satisfying than giving a handful of aromatic herbs and spices a good pounding in a large, heavy mortar. Handmade pesto is great and whole-toasted spices don’t last a second in the bowl of a nice granite model, but for me, it’s in the act of making Thai curry paste that Iget the most out of one of my simplest kitchen tools.

Making curry paste the authentic way is a tactile and fragrant experience. In fact, things oftentimes get so aromatic that Lauren practically has to lock herself in our bedroom to avoid the pungent odor of toasted shrimp paste – an essential component of true Thai curry. Here I’ve included a recipe for a paste to create one of my all-time favorite curries: panang. Citrus notes dominate due to the heavy use of lime zest, lime leaves, coriander seeds and lemongrass.

While some of the key ingredients might be hard to track down and the overall process requires a fair amount of prep, as Victor Sodsook points out in his cookbook, True Thai: The Modern Art of Thai Cooking, curry pastes are “like money in the bank.” An hour of hard work will pay off with intense, complex flavor in future dishes. Couple this with the fact that many pastes last weeks in the refrigerator and several months in the freezer, and you have a culinary resource that lends completed dishes a taste that will seem like it’s taken hours to build.

Check back tomorrow for recipe that puts this amazing paste to good use; Panang Beef Curry.

PANANG CURRY PASTE

From True Thai: The Modern Art of Thai Cooking by Victor Sodsook

This recipe employs the use of both a mortar and pestle as well as a food processor in the assembly of the curry paste. The mortar breaks down the tough fibers of the lemongrass, galangal and lime leaves, releasing valuable oils and aromas that would be lost if the food processor was used exclusively. If you’ve never used shrimp paste before, be warned, it’s pretty pungent stuff. I like to finely slice or scrape the shrimp paste from it’s container or block and then pack it into a tablespoon measurement for accurate proportioning.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 package (3 ounces) dried red New Mexico chilies
• 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon whole coriander seed
• 2 tablespoons shrimp paste wrapped neatly in a double layer of aluminum foil
• Zest of 2 fresh Kaffir limes or 1 small domestic lime
• 10 (5 pairs) fresh Kaffir lime leaves or 1/2 teaspoon grated lime zest
• 2 1/2 tablespoons chopped cilantro, including stems
• 1 large stalk lemon grass, tough outer leaves discarded, lower stalk trimmed to 3 inches and finely sliced
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped, peeled galangal or common ginger
• 1/3 cup roughly chopped garlic
• 1/3 cup roughly chopped shallots

METHOD:

1. Stem the chilies, discarding most of the seeds and removing the dry, tough ribs. Cut or tear the chilies into 1-inch pieces and put them in a bowl. Cover the chilies with warm water to cover and let soak for 20-30 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, lightly toast the coriander seeds in a small skillet set over medium heat until aromatic, about 3-5 minutes. Shake the pan frequently to prevent burning. Transfer the toasted coriander to a small bowl to cool and set aside.
3. Set the skillet back over medium heat and add the foil-wrapped shrimp paste. Cook, turning the packed over once or twice until aromatic, about 5 minutes. Remove the packet from the skillet and set aside to cool.
4. Put the toasted coriander in a large, heavy mortar and pestle and grind to a fine powder. Transfer the ground coriander to the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade.
5. If using fresh lime leaves, stack them and cut them into fine slivers with a sharp knife. Combine the lime zest, slivered lime leaves, cilantro, lemongrass, and ginger in the mortar and pound for a minute to break down the fibers. Transfer the crushed mixture to the food processor.
6. Pound the garlic and shallots in the mortar until just crushed and transfer them to the food processor.
7. Unwrap the shrimp paste and add it to the food processor.
8. Drain the chilies from their soaking liquid, reserving about 1/2 cup of the water. Add the chilies to the food processor.
9. Pulse the ingredients to combine, process the mixture until a rich, moist paste forms, stopping occasionally to scrape down the sides of the bowl with a spatula. Add a few tablespoons of the reserved soaking liquid, if needed, to ease the grinding.
10. Store the finished panang curry paste in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 1 month, or in the freezer for up to 3 months.

Makes about 1 2/3 cups.