This recipe for sweet and spicy pork ribs is one of my family’s all-time favorites.  Seems like every time the warm summer weather rolled around, we could expect my Mom to whip up a batch of these sticky ribs to eat out on the patio on a warm night.  Their flavor is so unique and the dish itself so craveable that I was stunned to learn how simple they are to prepare.  If you have a can of sliced peaches in heavy syrup, a pinch of crushed red pepper and a bottle of supermarket barbecue sauce in the pantry, then you’re in business.  Now, I’m a nut for good, slow-smoked, true barbecue, but if you need to feed a crowd and don’t have the time or equipment needed to produce the genuine article, these will do just fine.  Serve with some baked beans and grilled corn and you’ve got a dang good BBQ dinner.

SPICY PEACH BARBECUE SPARE RIBS

Braising these ribs in their aromatic broth until just tender not only infuses them with outstanding flavor of but also allows you to cook enough for a large group without the effort the involved in hours of roasting or smoking the meat.  (For those of you with the means and time to do so, you can just as easily smoke these ribs or roast them in a pan, tightly sealed with tin foil, until tender and the meat has pulled back from the ribs about a quarter inch or so.) While the braising liquid adds a ton of flavor, it’s the peach BBQ sauce that really sets these apart from the rest. As much as I love homemade versions or the artisan varieties available on the market, good old Cattleman’s or Bulls-Eye work just fine here. When it comes time to baste the ribs with the sauce, don’t rush the process.  Keep in mind that the barbecue sauce is high in sugar and will burn quickly if you’re not careful.  Instead, grill the ribs over low heat, basting and turning them often until their richly caramelized and blackened in spots.  Allow the first coat to dry/caramelize before applying the subsequent layers.  Finally, if pork loin or baby back ribs are more your style, feel free to use them in this recipe and reduce the braising time to about 50 minutes.

INGREDIENTS:

Braising Liquid

• 1 large onion, coarsely chopped
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 teaspoons cinnamon
• 1 tablespoon dried basil
• 1 1/2 teaspoons ground allspice
• 1 1/2 teaspoons ground ginger
• 1 teaspoon crushed dried hot red chilies
• 3 dried bay leaves

Peach Barbecue Sauce:

• 1 (16 ounce) can sliced peaches, drained
• 1 -2 teaspoons crushed dried hot red chilies
• 1 bottle (18 oz ) prepared barbecue sauce

METHOD:

1. Place ribs in a large stock pot. Add all ingredients for braising liquid, and fill pot with water just to cover.
2. Bring to boil: cover and turn the heat down to a very gentle simmer for 1 hour to an hour and 20 minutes, or until the ribs are tender.
3. Puree peaches in a blender or food processor with prepared barbecue sauce and chili.
4. Drain ribs and lay them flesh-side down on a grill above medium-hot coals (or preheat gas grill to medium-hot).
5. Baste the ribs frequently with the peach/barbecue sauce and turn the ribs to develop a rich brown glaze, about 20 minutes.  Warm any remaining peach barbecue sauce and serve in a bowl alongside the glazed ribs.

Serves 6-8

Summer time means basil, and basil means pesto.  But this isn’t a recipe for pesto -  I make mine different every time – no, this is a recipe that takes pesto and makes it something more, something special.  How do you make pesto, already chock full of robust herbiness and garlic, better? Two words: goat cheese.   Think of this humble sandwich as a stage. If the grilled chicken, marinated in garlic and Italian herbs, is the lead, the pesto goat cheese spread is the supporting role who steals the show.  The chicken we clap for; the spread gets a standing ovation.

Metaphors aside, this is a solid summer sandwich, just right for a weekend lunch or casual weeknight dinner and fairly easy to make, too. Even the harshest critics, are sure to give it rave reviews.

GRILLED CHICKEN SANDWICH WITH PESTO GOAT CHEESE SPREAD

Adapted from Gourmet Magazine

The pesto goat cheese spread in this recipe is seriously delicious stuff.  If you have homemade pesto lying around, then by all means use it in this recipe.  If not, this is what the store-bought variety was meant for.  While it’s great on a sandwich, also consider putting it out as a dip for guests alongside crudités.  If you can’t find ciabatta rolls, use whatever you can find and you’ll still end up eating a killer sandwich.  I suggest butterflying the chicken breasts in this recipe to expedite the cooking time.  If your chicken breasts still seem too large to fit evenly on the roll, wait for the meat to rest and then cut each into slices on a bit of a bias and continue with the recipe. Here I’ve shown a version of this sandwich with roasted red bell peppers, but if that isn’t your thing,  a slice of ripe tomato would also be delicious.  Finally, I like to add a splash of balsamic vinegar on the mixed greens or chicken breast before assembling the sandwich to provide a tart counterbalance to the richness of the pesto goat cheese spread.  I’m sure you’ll find it’s a pleasant, unexpected addition.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 large, bone-skinless chicken breasts
• 1 teaspoon garlic, finely minced
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 3/4 teaspoon Italian seasoning
• Kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper
• 4 ounces soft mild goat cheese, at room temperature
• 2 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature
• 1/4 cup pesto
• 4 slices jarred roasted red peppers, drained well
• 1 1/2 cups mixed greens
• Balsamic vinegar to taste
• 4 ciabatta rolls, split in half

METHOD:

1. Fillet or slice the chicken breasts in half horizontally to produce 4 thin cutlets.  Place the chicken into a medium bowl and add the garlic, olive oil and Italian seasoning.  Season lightly with salt and pepper.  Allow to marinate for at least 1 hour or as long as overnight in the refrigerator.
2. Add the goat cheese, cream cheese and pesto to a food processor and blend until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper and set aside.
3. Prepare a gas or charcoal grill for direct, high-heat grilling.  Drain the chicken cutlets from their marinade and season again with salt and freshly cracked black pepper.  Sear the breasts on each side for about 4 minutes, or until just cooked through, and set aside to allow to rest.  Meanwhile, briefly toast the rolls until warmed through and slightly crisp.
4. Toss the mixed greens with just a touch of balsamic vinegar and begin to assemble the sandwiches by spreading an even layer of the pesto goat cheese mixture on each half of the ciabatta roll followed by one of the rested chicken cutlets, a slice of roasted red bell pepper, and a handful of the balsamic dressed mixed greens.  Top with the other half of the roll and serve warm.

Makes 4 sandwiches

If you’re at all like me, you absolutely loathe the crappy, mass-produced, light-as-air hamburger buns that they have on hand at most major supermarkets.  I’m talking about the ones that you throw your hot, juicy burger onto, that in turn dissolves into a condiment-laden sponge within minutes.  Last Summer, I’d finally had enough and decided to try making some of own.

While significantly more substantial than those found at most fast food establishments, these little guys are still very tender and delicate, retaining a resiliency that not many sesame seed buns can boast.  Unlike those at the grocery store, these will not melt or crumble in your hands.  They can stand up to a good amount of juices and have a flavor infinitely more complex than your typical factory-made variety.

With Memorial Day hours away, grilling season is finally upon us. Do yourself a favor this summer and try making these buns from scratch at least once.  I promise, your burgers will thank you.

HOMEMADE SESAME SEED BUNS

From Saveur Magazine

This isn’t the type of thing you make every weekend, so take your time and don’t rush the process.  I like to use a thermometer to measure the temperature of my milk.  It might be a little over-the-top, but properly warmed milk and a bit of sugar will get the yeast activated quickly.  When it comes time to knead the dough, don’t be afraid to do so on medium-high heat.  Let the machine do its job and really work the dough.  For best results, leave your dough to rise in a warm, draft-free spot for the full two hours before moving on to the next step.  For good looking buns, pinch the dough a bit as you roll them into tight balls.  This creates a smooth, uniform skin in the final product.  These buns are by no means just for burgers.  Try them with sloppy joes or even BBQ beef sandwiches.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1  1⁄4-ounce package active dry yeast
• 1 1⁄3 cups milk, heated to 115°
• 1 1⁄2 teaspoons plus 2 teaspoons sugar
• 4 cups flour
• 1 1⁄4 teaspoons kosher salt
• 1 egg, lightly beaten
• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 1⁄2″ cubes, softened
• Canola oil, for greasing
• 3 teaspoons sesame seeds

METHOD:

1. In the bowl of a mixer fitted with a paddle, stir together yeast, milk, and 1 1⁄2 tsp. sugar; let foam. Stir in remaining sugar, flour, salt, and egg. Mix on low speed until dough forms. Replace paddle with dough hook; add butter; knead on medium-high speed until dough pulls away from sides of bowl, about 8 minutes. Transfer dough to an oiled bowl; cover with plastic wrap. Let rest in a warm place until doubled in size, about 2 hours.

2. Heat oven to 400°. Divide dough into 12 portions; shape each into a tight ball. Place balls on a parchment paper–lined baking sheet. Lightly brush balls with oil; cover loosely with plastic wrap. Let rise for 1 1⁄2 hours.

3. Uncover dough and, using a spray bottle filled with water, moisten dough; sprinkle each ball with 1⁄4 tsp. sesame seeds. Bake, rotating once, until golden brown, 18–20 minutes. Let cool.

Makes 12 buns

I love chilaquiles.  In fact, I crave them so often that I drag myself out of bed early on a Saturday morning at least once a month to feast on one of my favorite versions from Primavera at the San Francisco Ferry Terminal Farmers Market.  That’s what you have to do if you’re going to try to beat the hordes of people that line up for this delicious Mexican breakfast dish every weekend.

We’ve all had huevos rancheros at one crappy diner or another at some point in our lives, but for those that have never tried authentic chilaquiles, it’s understandable how the concept could sound a bit bizarre.  Admittedly, the idea of crispy tortilla chips drowned in a sea of flavorful red chile sauce seems a bit unorthodox.  I mean who likes soggy nachos anyways? But for those that simply can’t wrap their head around the idea of a somewhat soggy nacho, I’d encourage you to think outside of Latin American cuisine to another ethnic group that also marries sauce and carbohydrates so beautifully — the Italians.

I an effort to convey the craveable aspects of this dish, I’d encourage you think of chilaquiles as you would the perfect bowl of pasta.  Here, the thick-cut (preferably homemade) tortilla chips play the role of al dente pasta that has a bit of soft crunch and resiliency left to it, but has also absorbed some of the delicious sauce that surrounds it.  Topped with spicy chorizo, tangy Mexican crema, crumbled cotija cheese and ripe avocado and you have a breakfast dish that will set you up for a whole days worth of activities…or an early afternoon nap.

RED CHILE & CHORIZO CHILAQUILES

Adapted from a Rick Bayless & Saveur Magazine Recipe

Making chilaquiles at home, likes eggs Benedict, can be a bit of an undertaking for the average home cook.  It’s for this very reason that good preparation and organization is a must.  Do yourself a favor and make the chile sauce the night before.  If you opt to make your own tortilla chips (which I highly recommend), this too can be accomplished ahead of time to alleviate the work load on the day of service. For me, chorizo and breakfast are synonymous, but if pork isn’t your thing or you find it too greasy you can always use shredded chicken or keep it vegetarian for an equally delicious plate of food.  Here I present a version with a sunny-side up egg, but serving these chilaquiles alongside some fluffy scrambled eggs is delicious (that’s how Primavera does it).  Finally, if you’re interested in making this dish but are planning on only serving two, refrigerate or freeze half of the sauce and warm the remainder in a skillet along with half of the amount of chips.

INGREDIENTS:

• 8 medium (2 ounces total) dried guajillo chiles, stemmed, seeded and torn into flat pieces
• 1 15-ounce can diced tomatoes in juice (preferably fire-roasted), drained
• 4 large garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped
• 2 1/2 tablespoons vegetable oil (divided use)
• 3 cups chicken broth
• 1⁄4 teaspoon sugar, or more to taste
• Salt
• 8 ounces (8 to 12 loosely packed cups, depending on thickness) thick homemade-style corn tortilla chips (such as the ones you buy at a Mexican grocery)
• 1/2 pound fresh Mexican chorizo, sauteed until just cooked and broken up with the back of a wooden spoon
• 4 eggs
• 1 small red onion, thinly sliced
• About 1/3 Mexican crema or sour cream
• 1/2 cup crumbled cotija cheese
• 4 radishes, very thinly sliced
• 2 avocados, peeled, pitted and diced
• Chopped cilantro for garnish

METHOD:

1. Toast the chile pieces a few at a time in a dry heavy skillet or on a griddle heated over medium, pressing them flat against the hot surface with a metal spatula until they are aromatic, about 19 seconds per side.  In a bowl, rehydrate the chiles for 20 minutes in hot tap water to cover; place a small plate on the top to keep the chiles submerged.
2. Using a pair of tongs, transfer the rehydrated chiles to a food processor or blender. Measure in 1 cup of water, add the tomatoes and garlic and process to a smooth puree. Press through a medium-mesh sieve into a bowl.
3. Heat 1 1/2 tablespoons of the oil in a medium pot or Dutch oven or a large (12-inch) deep skillet over medium-high heat. When hot, add the chile puree and stir until reduced to the consistency of tomato paste, anywhere from 7-12 minutes.  Add the broth, partially cover and simmer over medium-low heat for 20 minutes. Season with sugar and about 1 scant teaspoon. You should have about a generous 4 cups of brothy sauce.
4. Just before finishing the chilaquiles, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large skillet over medium. Add the eggs and cook on one side just until set, sunny-side up.
5. Raise the heat under the seasoned sauce to medium-high. Stir in the chips, turning to coat all of them well. Let the sauce return to a simmer, cover and turn off the heat. Let stand for 5 minutes (no longer).
6. Uncover the pot and check that the chips have softened nicely—they should be a little chewy, but not mushy. Spoon onto warm plates. Transfer an egg to each portion, crumble on the warm chorizo and drizzle each portion with the crema.  Scatter on some thinly sliced red onion, crumbled cotija cheese, sliced radishes, diced avocado and garnish with chopped cilantro.  Serve immediately.

Serves 4

Every once in a while I’ll spend a Sunday afternoon making some Thai curry paste. Like I mentioned in my recipe for panang curry paste, a quick trip to the Asian market for a few hard to find ingredients and about an hour in the kitchen with your mortar and pestle will set you up for a good month of authentic Thai cooking at home.

As far as I’m concerned, this stuff is money in the bank.  It keeps for a  up to a month in the fridge and is perfect for pulling together a bona fide Thai meal in minutes.  Stir-fry the paste, some meat and a few handfuls of seasonal vegetables in your favorite wok, add in some stock, palm sugar, fish sauce and Thai basil, throw it all on top of some sticky rice and you’ll be set up for some truly delicious eating.

Unlike a red, green or yellow curry, phrik khing is considered a “dry-style” curry, free of any coconut milk.  Instead, the paste is fried in oil and moistened with a bit of stock to create a sauce that clings to the protein and veggies.  The resulting dish can be characterized as smooth and a bit peppery with fragrant notes of galangal and lemongrass throughout.

So, next time you’re looking for something to cook on a lazy Sunday afternoon, consider making some homemade curry paste and look forward to reaping the rich culinary dividends of delicious Thai meals in the weeks that follow.

PHRIK KHING CURRY PASTE

From True Thai: The Modern Art of Thai Cooking

Do yourself a favor and get your mise en place in order before setting out to make this paste.  Soak your chiles, wrap your shrimp paste in foil, zest your limes and peel your shallots and you’ll be able to pull the paste together in and efficient, organized fashion.  The guajillo chiles used here are mild and fruity, so if you’re looking for a paste with a bit more heat, feel free to add in some fresh or dried Thai chiles to the mix.  This recipe calls for the use of a mortar and pestle as well as food processor, but you can certainly get away with just using one or the other.  Store it in the fridge for about a month and in the freezer for up to three.

INGREDIENTS:

• 6 large dried Guajillo chilies
• 1 teaspoon shrimp paste, wrapped neatly in a double layer of aluminum foil
• 1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 tablespoon minced fresh Kaffir lime peel or domestic lime peel
• 1 large stalk lemongrass, outer leaves discarded, lower stalk trimmed to 3 inches and finely sliced
• 1 1/2 teaspoons finely chopped, peeled fresh galangal, or common ginger
• 1/4 cup chopped garlic
• 1/2 cup shallots

METHOD:

1. Stem the chilies and shake out most of the seeds. Cut the chilies in half lengthwise and remove any tough, dried ribs. Cut them crosswise into 3/4-inch pieces and put in a bowl. Cover with water and soak for 30 minutes. Set a small skillet on medium heat. Place the foil-wrapped shrimp paste in the skilled and cook for about 5 minutes, until aromatic, turning the packet over once or twice. Remove the packet from the skillet and set aside to cool.
2. Put the peppercorns in a large, heavy mortar and grind them to a powder. Transfer ground pepper to the bowl of a food processor. Add the salt.
3. Combine the minced lime peel, lemongrass and ginger in the mortar and pound for a minute to break down the fibers. Pound the garlic and shallots in the mortar just until crushed and transfer to the food processor. Unwrap the shrimp paste and add it to the food processor. Drain the chilies, reserving about 1/2 cup of the soaking liquid. Add the chilies to the food processor.
4. Process the ingredients until a rich, moist paste forms, stopping occasionally to scrape down the sides of the work bowl. Add a few tablespoons of the chili-soaking liquid now and then, if needed to ease the grinding.

Makes about 1 1/2 cups

This past Sunday, I set out to put together the mother of all Mother’s Day brunches for the woman who is largely responsible for my undying passion for food.  In an effort to pull out all the stops for this year’s celebration, I decided to cure my own gravlax for an over-the-top meal that would show my appreciation for all that she has done for me. Convinced my offering would exhibit a bit of advanced culinary know-how and finesse, I was certain that such a meal would surely outdo any boring old Benedict.

Having never cured salmon before, I was completely caught off guard by how simple and hands-off the whole curing process was going to be.  Here I was planning an elaborate, intricate and involved meal, and I was nearly done with all of the “advanced” prep work three days before the big event.  Flash forward to Sunday and a few careful, paper-thin slices later and we were sitting down to an elegant brunch that went down as “one of the best in years.”  Placed atop a toasted bagel with rich cream cheese, crisp red onions, juicy tomato and briny capers, the lox stood out as a true hero with its subtle essence of dill and lemon on a delicate backdrop of sweet, salty salmon.   There might not have been pillowy poached eggs and velvety hollandaise this time around, but served alongside fresh seasonal fruit, soft scrambled eggs and refreshing mimosas, it was as elegant a meal as any.

GRAVLAX

When making gravlax at home, it is of the utmost importance that you purchase salmon at it’s peak of freshness.  Check with your fishmonger to make sure that the salmon hasn’t been previously frozen and thawed.  For easy cleanup, I like to wrap the fillet itself with a thin layer of the excess cheesecloth and apply the salt/sugar cure directly on top — the flavor will be just as pronounced and you’ll save yourself the task of picking off stray bits of pepper or dill.  Slicing gravlax thinly enough can be a challenge even for the most accomplished home cook.  Use a very sharp knife with a long, thin blade and try to slice the flesh in one direction (pulling the knife toward you) in an effort to attain paper-thin slices — cutting the fillet while it is cold with a warm knife helps significantly.  It takes a bit of practice, but don’t worry if you can’t get perfect slices each time — the ugly ones taste just as good.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 to 1-1/4 lb. skin-on salmon fillet, preferably center-cut, pin bones removed
• 1/2 cup kosher salt
• 1/4 cup granulated sugar
• 1 small bunch fresh dill fronds
• 2 teaspoons freshly cracked black pepper
• 4 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
  
• 2 teaspoons vodka

METHOD:

1. Line a flat-bottomed strainer or perforated sheet pan with a large piece of cheesecloth, allowing the edges to drape over the sides.
2. Place the salmon fillet skin-side down on the layer of cheesecloth and drape the overhanging edges loosely around the fillet.
   
3. In a small bowl mix together the kosher salt, granulated sugar and pepper until well-combined. Pack the cure mixture on top of the wrapped salmon in a thick, even layer.  Scatter the dill fronds on top of the cure mixture and drizzle evenly with the lemon juice and vodka.
4. Cover the sheet pan/strainer with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 3 days.
5. When ready to serve, brush off the and discard the cure.  Using a very sharp knife, slice thinly at a sharp angle to make wide, paper-thin slices.
6. Serve piled atop a lightly toasted bagel with cream cheese, capers, ripe tomato, thinly sliced red onion, a few turns of coarsely ground black pepper and a lemon wedge or two.

Makes enough for 4 generous portions

If you celebrate Cinco de Mayo the way folks around here do, you’re going to need some serious grub to soak up the booze. The following recipes will not only satisfy any Mexican cravings, they’ll also lay down a base coat before your night gets going. Best of all? They can pretty much all be scaled up to feed a crowd. So enjoy responsibly and leave other Cinco de Mayo menu ideas in the comments.

TACOS, TOSTADAS, APPETIZERS

Tacos de Barbacoa

Chile-Braised Pork Tacos

Tacos de Cochinita Pibil

Red Chile Beef Tostadas

Taquitos

SALSAS & DIPS

Avocado-Tomatillo Salsa

Guacamole

Habanero Hot Sauce

Chipotle Bean Dip

Crema Mexicana

ON THE SIDE

Smoky Chipotle Black Beans

NICE & REFRESHING

Agua de Horchata

Cinco de Mayo is around the corner, and there are few hors d’œuvre in the Mexican repertoire better suited for munching on with a nice cold cerveza or margarita in hand than a crunchy, rolled taquito.  If the only kind of taquito you’re familiar with comes in a box from the frozen food aisle, then you’re in for a serious treat.  These are the real deal.  No microwaves, no ovens and no mystery meat here;  just the ear shattering crunch and savory interior of a freshly fried, homemade beef taquito.

Truth be told, I happily ate my healthy share of frozen taquitos for years. In fact, growing up I didn’t know many households that didn’t have a case buried somewhere in their freezer for snack emergencies. Throw them on plate, pop them in the microwave for a minute or so and go to town.  Let’s face it: they’re quick, convenient and the perfect vessel for your favorite condiment.  As a kid, I’d go as far as to dip mine in ketchup! It wasn’t until I decided to try a homemade version that I realized what this Mexican fingerfood could be. Where the frozen lack any serious depth of flavor and always end up being somewhere between chewy and soggy on the texture scale, the homemade is a knockout crispy treat.

These taquitos are the perfect way to use up leftover barbacoa.  In fact, I’ll even make an entire batch for the sole purpose of rolling up a few dozen of these bad boys.  If you really like them (which you will), go ahead and make a double batch and stash them in your freezer for the ultimate late night snack.  Like the kind from the box, but oh-so-much better.

TAQUITOS

Finding good, small, yellow corn tortillas is the first step in making a killer taquito at home.  In my experience, flour and/or white corn tortillas just don’t render the same results.  In order to make the tortillas pliable enough to roll into tight, cigar-like taquitos, it’s necessary to first blanch them in hot oil for a few seconds to make them pliable.  Simply steaming or warming the tortillas in a pan will not work in this instance as they are likely to crack or break during the rolling stage.  As always, I recommend getting a friend or family member involved in this process as an assembly line will pull this recipe together much more quickly than going it alone.  After the taquitos have been rolled, you can either fry them straight away using toothpicks to secure their shape or freeze them seam-side down on a parchment-line baking sheet.  Whatever you do, make sure they are tightly rolled and securely sealed to avoid unfurling in the hot oil.  I’ve gone with barbacoa beef here, but you could just as easily use leftover chile-braised pork, or pulled chicken as well.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 pounds leftover barbacoa beef, shredded
• 16-20 small yellow corn tortillas, no larger than 5-inches in diameter
• Oil for frying
• Hot Sauce, salsa and/or guacamole for dipping

METHOD:

1. Preheat oven to 200° F.  Pour oil into a heavy medium pot until it reaches a depth of 2-inches.  Heat oil over medium heat until it reaches 350° F on a candy thermometer.
2. Working one at a time, quickly dip a tortilla into the hot oil for a few seconds until completely submerged – you are not looking to crisp or cook the tortilla at this point, but rather, make it pliable.  Remove the tortilla using tongs and drain it on several layers of paper towel in order to absorb the excess oil.  Repeat this same dipping/draining procedure with the remaining tortillas.
3. To fill and roll the taquitos, place one of the pliable tortillas on a clean work surface and spoon on 2 large tablespoons or about 1.5-ounces of the shredded beef.  Using your fingers, pinch/shape the beef into a long, sausage-like row just under the center line of the tortilla.  Fold the bottom half of the tortilla up, over and around the filling, pulling snugly on the beef and rolling until you have created a tight cigar-like shape.  Rest the rolled taquito seam-side down on a sheet pan covered with parchment paper and repeat with the remaining tortillas and beef.  At this point you can freeze the taquitos for later frying or you can proceed to fry them straight away. If you plan to fry the taquitos directly after rolling, secure each seam with a carefully threaded toothpick to prevent them from unrolling in the hot oil.
4. Working in batches, fry the the taquitos until they are golden brown and and crispy throughout, about 5-6 minutes.  Transfer the cooked taquitos to a wire rack set over a paper towel-lined baking sheet and keep them warm in the oven. Repeat frying procedure with the remaining wings.
5. Place the hot taquitos on a large platter or stack them in a pyramid and serve along with your favorite Mexican salsa, hot sauce, sour cream or guacamole.

Makes 16-20 taquitos

Mention potatoes on pizza and you’ll get one of two responses. From the folks who’ve tried it, you can expect an enthusiastic thumbs up. From everyonce else: a resounding “huh?” That’s the thing about pizza with potato – it sounds strange, until you try it, and then you just get it.

Tasting the ‘You Say Potato’ slice for the first time at Escape from New York Pizza on Haight Street in San Francisco was this moment for me.  Still in high school at the time, far out pizza toppings went about far as bacon and clams as in my Dad’s favorite New Haven-style pie from Pepe’s in New Haven, Connecticut.  A diehard pepperoni fan, I was blown away by the idea of putting a potato on a pizza.  Actually I probably wouldn’t have tried it had my vegetarian buddy not touted it as being “the best” slice of pizza he’d ever eaten.  He was right. Tender yet toothsome potatoes and savory whole-roasted garlic cloves come together in a one of a kind pesto pizza experience.

Over a decade later, I finally got around to trying it at home.  Don’t wait as long as I did; add this unbeatable flavor combination to your pizza-making repertoire now.  Then when someone mentions potatoes on a pizza, you’ll know.

PESTO PIZZA WITH ROASTED GARLIC & POTATO

Inspired by the You Say Potato Slice at Escape from New York Pizza, San Francisco

As the addition of potatoes are what really sets this pizza apart, it is important to make sure they are cooked and seasoned properly before they go on top of the pie.  To ensure that the potatoes are cooked all the way through when the pizza comes out of the oven, I blanch them in boiling water, just until they lose their crunch.  After draining them off, toss them them with a bit of leftover oil from the roasted garlic, sprinkle with herbs and a bit of salt and they’ll be ready to shine. By the way, making this a second time I added in crumbled bacon I had lying around and it was excellent; I highly recommend it to my pork-loving comrades.

INGREDIENTS:

• 24 ounces homemade or store-bought pizza dough, divided
• 1/2 cup all-purpose flour, for dusting
• About 1 cup homemade pesto (or store-bought)
• 2-3 cups grated mozzarella/provolone cheese
• 1 cup roasted or confit garlic cloves (recipe below)
• 4 red skinned potatoes, very thinly sliced
• 1/2 teaspoon Italian seasoning
• Olive oil
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Crushed red pepper flakes

METHOD:

1. Place a pizza stone in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 500°.  Allow the stone to heat for at least half an hour before baking pizzas.
2. Allow the pizza dough to come to room temperature.  On a lightly-floured work surface, form the dough into two large balls, collecting the sides and tucking them under to create a smooth outer surface.  Cover the dough with a damp towel and allow to rest for at least 20 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, blanch the potato slices in boiling water until just cooked through, anywhere between 1 – 2 minutes.  Drain and allow to cool slightly before drying the slices with paper towels and coating them with a touch of olive oil, a pinch of Italian seasoning and kosher salt.
4. Generously dust a wooden peel or the back of a sheet pan with flour or cornmeal. With lightly-floured hands, press the dough with your fingertips to form a flattened disk.  Lift the dough up and use the back of your knuckles to stretch and thin-out the dough into a circle with a diameter of 12-inches. Be careful to preserve the edge of the dough if you want a light, chewy crust. Carefully position the stretched dough onto the prepared peel or baking sheet.
5. Using a large spoon, spread an even layer of the pesto onto the dough and carefully spread it to within 1/2-inch of the edge, being careful to leave a sauce free edge.  Top with an even layer of the grated mozzarella/provolone cheese followed by slices of parboiled potatoes and roasted garlic cloves.  Top with a light sprinkling of a bit more mozzarella, season with salt to taste and a pinch of red pepper flakes.  Lightly brush the exposed crust with a bit of olive oil (or leftover garlic) oil to promote browning.
6. Carefully slide the pizza onto the preheated stone and bake until the crust is crisped and golden and the cheese is bubbling and just beginning to brown, about 6-7 minutes.  Remove the pizza from the oven and allow it to rest for a few minutes before slicing.

Makes enough for 2 pizzas

Roasted or Confit Garlic

In this recipe I like to confit the garlic cloves as opposed to roast them whole in an effort maintain the integrity of the garlic.  If you have some roasted garlic cloves laying around or prefer to roast a head of garlic wrapped in foil, feel free to do that instead.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 or 2 head of garlic, broken down into individual cloves and peeled
• Olive oil
• 1/2 teaspoon Italian seasoning
• Kosher salt

METHOD:

1. Preheat the oven to 300.  Add the peeled garlic cloves to a small saucepan and pour in olive oil until just barely covered.  Add a pinch of Italian seasoning and Kosher salt and roast in the oven for about 1 hour and 15 minutes, or until golden brown and soft.  Remove the saucepan from the oven and allow the garlic confit to cool.  Remove garlic cloves and store infused oil in the fridge for up to a week for another dishes.

If you haven’t tried Vietnamese banh mi by now, you’ve been missing out on a truly remarkable sandwich. At once exotic, but at the same time decidedly familiar, these guys are unlike anything in the American lunchtime lineup.  No cheese or mustard here, just the perfect marriage of sour, salty and savory Vietnamese flavors on a sweet, light-as-air, French baguette all harmoniously coming together in one killer snack.

Topped with crunchy pickled carrots and daikon, cool sliced cucumber, aromatic cilantro and spicy chilies, a good banh mi is a melange of flavors and textures. Not unlike a BLT, banh mi are salty, crunchy and juicy with a nice counterpoint of warm meats. Packed with savory roast pork or my version with grilled five-spice chicken shown above, the real beauty of this sandwich is its variety of delicious proteins.  From grilled lemongrass beef or sardine, to the deli combo loaded with roast pork, mortadella and paté there are plenty of options out there to satisfy any hankering. Here in San Francisco, Saigon Sandwich on Larkin Street is home to some of the finest banh mi around.  At $3.50 apiece, I defy you to find a better quality, more filling sandwich for cheaper anywhere in the city.  This is the Asian sandwich.

Banh Mi Sandwich

When making a sandwich of this caliber, it’s important that all of the ingredients be of the highest quality and freshness that you can find.  Start out by looking for a nice, light and airy french baguette.  The last thing you want here is a chewy, razor sharp crust getting in the way of all those delicious, delicate flavors within.  I’ve gone with 5-spice chicken for this particular build, but feel free to use grilled lemongrass beef, Vietnamese roast pork, Chinese-style char siu, påté, or even your favorite deli meat.  One of my favorite components of a good banh mi is the sharp, bright heat of a few jalapeño rings.  If that kinda heat isn’t your thing, consider drizzling in sriracha to give your sandwich a bit of bite.  No matter what you do, definitely take the time to make the pickled daikon and carrots from the recipe listed below.  A banh mi really isn’t a banh mi without them.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 8-inch long pieces of a light, airy french baguette
• Mayonnaise or softened butter
• Soy Sauce or Maggi Seasoning for drizzling
• 2-3 cups grilled, sliced, boneless-skinless, five spice chicken thighs
• 4-6 thin slices English cucumber, seeded
• Pickled Daikon and Carrots (Recipe Below)
• 6 cilantro sprigs
• Jalapeño, thinly sliced
• Sriracha Chili Sauce (Optional)

METHOD:

1. Slice each piece of baguette in half horizontally, stopping before you cut all the way through to leave a hinge.  Lightly toast the baguette pieces in the oven until just barely crusty and set aside to cool for a moment.
2. Generously slather the inside of each baguette with mayonnaise or softened butter and sprinkle with a few dashes of soy sauce or Maggi seasoning.
3. Layer in warm slices of grilled five-spice chicken and top with 1/3 cup pickled daikon/carrots, cucumber, cilantro and a few slices of jalapeño.
4. Serve warm or at room temperature.
   

Makes enough for 2 sandwiches

Pickled Daikon

from Andrea Nguyen’s, Into the Vietnamese Kitchen: Treasured Foodways, Modern Flavors

Be warned, these guys can positively reek.  Don’t let the smell put you off as they have a wonderful sweet, sour quality and add the perfect, necessary crunch to the sandwich. For a full primer on how to pick out daikon and craft the flavor to suit your own taste, check out Andrea’s thorough primer on do chua here.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 large carrot, peeled and cut into thick matchsticks
• 1 pound daikons, each no larger than 2 inches in diameter, peeled and cut into thick matchsticks
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 2 teaspoons plus 1/2 cup sugar
• 1  1/4 cups distilled white vinegar
• 1 cup lukewarm water

METHOD:

1. Place the carrot and daikons in a bowl and sprinkle with the salt and 2 teaspoons of the sugar. Use your hands to knead the vegetables for about 3 minutes, expelling the water from them. They will soften and liquid will pool at the bottom of the bowl. Stop kneading when you can bend a piece of daikon so that the ends touch but the daikon does not break. The vegetables should have lost about one-fourth of their volume. Drain in a colander and rinse under cold running water, then press gently to expel extra water. Return the vegetables to the bowl if you plan to eat them soon, or transfer them to a 1-quart jar for longer storage.
2. To make the brine, in a bowl, combine the 1/2 cup sugar, the vinegar, and the water and stir to dissolve the sugar. Pour over the vegetables. The brine should cover the vegetables. Let the vegetables marinate in the brine for at least 1 hour before eating. They will keep in the refrigerator for up to 4 weeks. Beyond that point, they get tired.